
aass_^E32. 
Book ^5_ 



I» 



THE 

GARDENER^S TEXT-BOOK: 

COXTAINIHQ 

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 

CPON THB 

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT 

0? 

THE KITCHEN GARDEN; 

AND FOB 

TEE CULTURE AND DOMESTIC USE OF ITS VEGETABLES 
FRUITS, AND MEDlCmAL HERBS. 



BY 

PETER ADAM SCHENCK, 

FORMERLY GARDENEft TO KDWARD C. WILLIAMS, ESQ. 



" Hence Summer has her riches, Autumn hence, 
And hence e'en Winter fills his withered hand 
■With blushii'g fruits, and plenty not his o^vn." 



L. 0. MOOnE, AGRICULTURAL BOOK- PUBLISHED, 

(LATE C. M. 8AXTON A CO.,) 

No. 410 FULTON STREET. 
1807. 






^f 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S51, by 

.TOIIX P. JEWKTT .St CO., 

\\\ the Clerk's Office of iho Tii-trict Court of th',- Tn.^inct of Massachus^tt*. 



43q l\| 

^3 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION, 5-13 

THE FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN, - 15—37 

THE SITUATION, 15 

THE SOIL, 16 

SIZE AND SHAPE, - 13 

ENCLOSURE, : . . 19 

INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS, - - - - 20 

THE CISTERN, 23 

THE FORCING-PIT, 26 

THE TOOL HOUSE AND ITS CONTENTS, - 27 

GENERAL MANAGEMENT, .... 33— S4 

THE EMPLOYMENT OF TIME, - - . - 3S 
A PROGRAMME OF LABOR, .... 41 

DEPTH AND MELLOWNESS OF THE SOIL, - 42 

^LiNL'RES, 46 

ROTATION OF CROPS, 50 

INDICATIONS OF RAIN, 52 

SELECTION OF SEEDS, 54 

SOWING, 55 

CULTIVATION WITH THE HOE, ... 59 

DESTRUCTION OF VERMIN, .... 62 

TRANSPLANTING, 69 

APPLICATION OF WATER, 71 

' SAVING SEED, - 73 

EARLY PLANTS FOR SPRING USE, - - 76 
FORCING VEGETATION, 78 

A DICTIONARY OF THE VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND 
MEDICINAL HERBS USUALLY CULTIVATED IN 
A KITCHEN GARDEN, THEIR HISTORY, VARIE- 
TIES, CULTURE AND USE. - - - 65—299 



ADVERTISEMENT. 

The publishers introduce tliis little volume to 
the notice of the public, with confidence in its 
merits, and adaptation to the wants of that class for 
whom it is designed. The author has aimed to give 
thorough and practical directions upon the forma- 
tion and management of the family kitchen garden, 
and upon the cultivation of our common vegetables, 
fruits and medicinal herbs, in a clear, simple manner, 
without any attempt at elegance of style. He here 
details what he has learned from personal experience, 
as compared with, and enlarged by, the published 
observations of others upon the same subject. For 
this reason, it is believed that the work will be found 
more generally useful, than though it were of a 
strictly local character. The numerous receipts 
scattered through the pages, will be appreciated by 
the housekeeper, and they add much to the value of 
the other matter. Many families do not derive half 
the satisfaction and profit from their garden^, which 
they might if acquainted with the best modes of pre- 
paring its vegetables and fruits for the table. The 
author and publishers have spared neither pains nor 
expense to render this treatise, although modest in 
price as well as in size, a complete and reliable 
Text-Book upon kitchen gardening ; and they in- 
dulge the hope, that it will be received with that 
favor to which they think it entitled. 

John P. Jewett & Co. 
^March 1st, 1851. 



THE GAllDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



IXTRODUCTIO^T. 

A Kitchen Garden is, properly, a piece of ground devoted 
to the culture of esculent vegetables alone ; but, it has become 
customary also to include within its limits, several varieties of 
fruit, and such herbs as are considered most valuable for me- 
dicinal purposes. Large fruit trees belong of right to the or- 
chard, because when placed in a garden, it will be found that 
their extended roots greatly impoverish the soil, while their 
overhanging branches are injurious to nearly every kind of 
vegetation which may be in tlieir vicinity. 

It is gratifying to notice among our population a growing 
taste for liorticultural pursuits. Our wide-spread country em- 
braces every variety of soil and climate, essential to the pro- 
duction of t!ie choicest fruits and vegetables in their perfection. 
But, it would seem that, until within a fvw years, we have 
been strangely unmindful of these advantages with which we 
are favored by nature, and that in the management of the 
kitchen garden, we have been far behind the peasantry of 
some European states. 

The common day laborer of England, a man of much less 

inteUigence and shrewdness tlian tlie greater portion of our 

working classes, is distinguished by a remarkable degree of 

•skill and taste in the cultivation and embellishment of the lit- 

ff 1* 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

tie spot of ground connected with his dwelling. Here it is 
that he spends the odd moments of time between his regular 
hours of labor ; and while he bestows the greatest attention up- 
on the vegetables which are afterwards to grace his humble 
board, he does not forget the excellent effect of a few flowers 
in the door-yard. The stranger who passes along the road 
cannot fail to infer that comfort and happiness preside in that 
cottage, however lowly may be its roof, and however rustic 
and uHpolished may be its inmates. 

The state of things in this country was formerly very dif- 
ferent. Although gardens were common, yet from the little 
interest which they excited in their owners, there could not 
have been much pleasure or profit attending their cultivation. 
The farmer thought it necessary to devote himself exclusively 
to his farm, and the mechanic preferred buying from others, to 
the trouble of supplying his wants by the culture of his own 
ground. 

This apathy with which we were once justly charged by 
intelligent travellers, is fast wearing away, and we are gradu- 
ally becoming aware of the claims which the art of kitchen 
gardening has upon our attention. Much good has been ac- 
complished through the agency of the horticultural societies 
that are now established in several sections. Intelligent and 
practical men have devoted their pens to the subject, and have 
already given us many treatises which are valuable alike for 
their originality, discrimination and good sense. Within a few 
years, several choice varieties of fruit have been propagated, 
and numerous additions made to our list of table esculents. 
Others with wliich we were little acquainted, have been 
brought into common use. The well-known tomato, which is 
now highly esteemed in all kitchens, was formerly raised in 
the flower garden under the name of love-apple, and was by 
some persons considered poisonous. We are thus awaking to 
the importance of the kitchen garden as an appendage to eve* 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

ry country house ; and we find that its cultivation is beneficial 
to health and murals, as well as productive of pleasiu-e and 
profit. 

To labor is our common lot — a universal duty prescribed 
by an alLwise Providence before the commission of sin. Ad- 
am, the father of us all. was placed in a garden " to dress it 
and to keep it." Man was never made to pass his life in idle- 
ness ; the very organ iza ion of his mind and body proves con- 
clusively that neither health nor happiness could be the portion 
of inactivity. The experience of physicians has demonstrated 
that the mind and the body should both be exercised, in a rea- 
sonable manner, and at suitable intervals ; that the one ought 
not to be restricted to a single cliain of thought, any more than 
that the otlier should be confined in one wearisome position. 
The author may kiU liimself by close application to his desk, 
giving his brain no rest, and yet keeping his limbs fixed in 
the chair. Wliere both are properly exercised, the muscular 
system is made strong, the blood courses through its accus- 
tomed channels with a healthful impulse, the appetite be- 
comes regular, while the mind itself remains compo-ed and 
tranquil. Thus the necessity for labor is of divine institution, 
and we find it not only the source of health and pleasm'e, but 
also the very basis of our worldly prosperity. 

To be thus beneficial, our labor must have for its object 
t^ome useful purpose, sucli an one as will be of advantage to 
ourselves, or to our fellow-men. The turning of a crank is of 
itself tedious, but so soon as the crank is connected witli ma- 
chinery, the task is rendered a source of gratification. What 
person with three ideas in his head, would be willing to sink 
a drill in the block of granite, unless it were for the reception 
of gunpowder by which the rock is to be shattered into frag- 
ments ? What dairy maid would be willing to operate the 
chvuTi without the expectation of making butter ? Who would 
be content to trundle an empty wheelbarrow ? Labor must 



8 INTRODUCTION. 

be useful, in order to be tlius blessed. In no other sense "will 
the -words of the poet be true : — 

" From labor, henUh ; from liealth, contentment springs ; 
Couteiitmeut opes the source of every joy." 

And where, we may now with propriety inquire — where 
can be found any employment which is more Avorthy the at- 
tention of liim who seeks after health and happiness, than the 
cultivation of the kitchen garden ? The gardener has some 
useful object constantly in view. While turning over the 
stubborn soil — while clierii^hing the feeble plants in all stages 
of their growth ; in the cold of winter, when he is making 
ready for the advent of spring— in the noon-day heat of sum- 
mer ; he is laboiing in the hope of an abundant reward. He 
feeds himself, and he feeds otliers. That which his hard toil 
has brought to maturity, graces the table of the wealthy, as 
well as that of the humble day-laborer. 

Gardening was man's first occupation, when in a state of 
innocence. He takes a harmless delight in the gradual progress 
of his crops. He acquires habits of industry, and learns to 
economize time, for his woi"k is regulated by the succession of 
the sea.sons, that roll around in their wonted course. In 
adapting the soil to the wants of different vegetables, in ar- 
ranging a rotation of crop?;, and in providing for future contin- 
gencies, he exercises foi-ethought, and is taught to do nothing 
rashly, or without due reflection. When the insects have de- 
stroyed the plants of one sowing, he is led to persevere, and to 
sow again, in the hopes of better fortune. By the care of his 
beds and walks, he becomes orderly and neat in other things. 
Even his disposition Avill be improved. If an idle, worthless 
fellow can be coaxed into a garden, the work of his reformation 
is already commenced. The crabbed and stingy will in time 
become generous, for he soon learns the pleasure of giving of 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

his abundance to those who are less favorably situated than 
himself. 

We all like an occasional change, either in our mode of 
living, or in the objects by which we are surrounded. The 
same fof>t-path at length loses its interest for the pedestrian, 
and he wishes to turn his steps into an unexplored track. In 
the garden, there is a regular succession of new beauties and 
wonders to gratify the eye, or to elevate the mind. Not only 
has each season its particular characteristics, but on each day 
is there presented some unexpected novelty to attract the at- 
tention. The germination of the seed, the development of the 
Btem and branches, the bursting forth of the flower, and the 
perfection of the fruit, are only a few of the many incidents of 
the horticultural year. The cultivator's interest is awakened 
at the outset of his labors, and it gradually strengthens with 
the progress of the months. As soon as the young plant rears 
its tiny head above ground, it is the object of his watchful 
care — to shield it from injury, and to hasten its growth. Eve- 
ry operation of culture, every natural phenomenon, is calcula- 
ted to excite emotions of pleasure, and to direct the psalm of 
praise to the Giver of all good. 

The mental and ^physical faculties are made strong, while 
the gentler feelings of the soul are quickened, and the strong- 
est passions of our nature are subdued. For these reasons, a 
celebrated medical auth(»rity has said, " Horticulture and ag- 
riculture are better fitted for the promotion of health and 
sound morals, than any other occupation." 

We cannot think less favorably of the products of a garden, 
in respect to their influence upon liealth. They furnish us with 
the substantial of life, and such of the delicacies as do not vi- 
tiate or corrupt. They have been considered by some anato- 
mists as man's natural food, and that they should form the ba- 
sis of every system of diet, is agreed by aU. Nothing can be 
more nutritious, or more palatable — particularly in the sum- 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

mer months, when the free use of animal flesh is most hurtful 
to the system. He who has once been accustomed to good, 
fresh vegetables atid fruits, knows how to estimate their value 
aright, and will admit how difficult it would be for him to get 
along without them. Their excellence is vastly increased, 
when they happen to be the products of one's own land, or 
have been watered by the sweat of his own bi"ow, and nurtur- 
ed by his care. No other person enjoys them so much as he. 
They seem to have an additional flavor, and it is reasonable to 
suppose that they are more grateful to the stomach. " Who 
so valueth," says an ancient worthy, " or eateth with so keen 
a relish, the fruit he buyeth of the stall- woman in a market, as 
that which his own hand hath gathered after great pains, and, 
it may be, peril, encountered in the search ?" 

Kitchen gardeni\ig is also a source of profit. To be sure, 
it is ordinarily looked upon as a very small and unimijortant 
business. Men of large capital, who are engaged in gigantic 
speculations, may sneer at the idea of gardening being recom- 
mended on account of the profit which attends it. This is a 
mistaken notion, for it appears from statistics that no occupa- 
tion is more certain of reward than the cultivation of the 
ground ; Avhile that Commerce is a great lottery, in which 
more tlian ninety-five out of a hundred adventurers draw 
blanks. 

And, even the farmer looks down upon the kitchen garden 
as a small afRiir, ahnost beneath his notice. It is indeed of 
small size, when compared with the ample fields of a farm. 
But, tliis is not the proper way of estimating their relative im- 
portance. A farm is not valuable in proportion to the num- 
ber of its acres, so much as in proportion to the quantity and 
quality of its productions. Hence a tract comprising a dozen 
acre's, may bo quite as valuable to the owner, as a tract of five 
hundred. In tlie same way, we sliould judge of the kitchen 
garden. If the annual income of a single acre, over and above 



INTRODUCTION. n 

the expense of cultivation, can be made greater than the net 
linnual gain of five acres, Tvhich tract is most profitable ? — - 
which the most worthy of attention ? 

No land pays a higher rate of interest than the humble, 
despised garden. The quantity of vegetables which it can be 
made to produce, almost exceeds belief; and farmers may 
well open their eyes, when told that under good management 
two acres of a garden, will be mure profitable ihan twenty 
acres of a farm, as it is usually conducted. In the vicinity of 
cities and hirge to"wns, the raising of vegetables for market is 
conducted on a large scale, and is said to be very lucrative. 

Every person who is acquainted with the vai"ied produc- 
tions of the kitchen garden, the sustenance which they alibrd, 
and their cash value, will admit its importance to all living in 
the country, whether they be farmers or mechanics. For a 
family of moderate size, only a small space of ground is re- 
quired for the supply of their table throughout the year. The 
labor and expense of cultivation may be rendered very light, 
so that while there is only a trifling outlay, the produce ren- 
ders unnecessary the purchase of a substitute. This can, with 
propriety, be termed profit, because that consists of money 
saved, as well as of money earned. If the poor man, by his 
own labor at odd moments of time, can secure an abundance 
of nutritious food for his family, why it is plain that he there- 
by avoids the expenditure of just so much as other vegeta- 
bles, or an extra quantity of meat, would have cost. The 
amount so saved is nothing else than clear profit. Should he 
raise more than he needs for his own household, he can gen- 
erally dispose of it at good prices among the inhabitants of tiie 
next village ; and in this way he will be remunerated for the 
necessary purchase of tools and seeds. 

There are, however, other reasons why gardens should be 
common, of more weight than the mere commercial value of 
their productions. They contribute largely to the resources of 



1 2 INTRODUCTION. 

good living. Their fruits and vegetables are considered ne« 
cessai-ies on the tables of the rich. How insipid would soups 
be, if it were not fc^r the vegetables of which they are compo- 
sed. And, in the succeeding courses, there would be an 
insupportable monotony, if there were no potatoes, no 
peas, no beans, no cauliflower, no spinach, no celery ; nor 
grapes, nor strawberries, nor gooseberries, nor raspberries. 
The poor can derive almost their whole living from the gar- 
den. Even the very food which is required to keep soul and 
body together, must unavoidably, when purchased, be of the 
cheapest description. If they have little money to spend in 
obtaining the substantials of life, they certainly cannot regale 
themselves with its delicacies, however agreeable they might 
be to the palate. By having gardens, they are enabled to 
feast ujDon nature's bounties with as much satisfaction as any 
nobleman can derive from his well-spread board. 

But little need be said of the dignity of horticulture as an 
occupation. It has engaged the attention, and received the 
approval, of the most distinguished men in all ages of the 
world. The Creator assigned a garden, " planted " by Him- 
self, as the abode of our first parents. The gardens of Geth- 
semane, and of Joseph of Arimathea, will never be forgotten 
as long as the liistory of tlie Divine Mediator continues to be 
read. The noblest families of Rome — the Cicerones, the Fa- 
bii, the Lentuli, and the Pisones — felt not asliamed to bear the 
names of tlie vetch, the bean, the tare, and the pea, common 
vegetables which had been introduced by their ancestors. 

Socrates has called the cultivation of the earth, " an excel- 
lent employment, most wortliy the application of man, the 
most ancient, and the most suitable to iiis nature ; it is the 
common nurse of all persons, in every age and condition of 
life ; it is tlie source of health, strength, plenty and riches, and 
of a thousand sober delights and honest pleasures. It is the 
mistress and school of sobriety, temperance, justice, religion, 



INTRODUCTION. 1 3 

and, in short, of all the virtues, civil and military." Lord Ba- 
con declared gardening to be "the purest of human pleasures ;" 
another author called it, " the most rational of all recreations;" 
and Mr. Roscoe said, " If I was asked -^hom I consider to be 
the happiest of the human race, I sliould answer those "who 
cultivate the land by their own hands." 

Altliough it is easy to discover an increased attention to 
the kitchen garden, during the last dozen years, yet it must be 
acknowledged by every candid observer, tliat it does not at 
the present day excite that interest which it merits. We 
have sliown that it not only is profitable in a pecuniary point 
of view, but is, moreover, conducive to health, happiness and 
good morals. Surely, no appendage to a country house can 
reflect greater credit upon the taste and judgment of the pro- 
piietor. We would have it more common — we wish its pro- 
ductions to be enjoyed as freely by the humble artisan, as by 
the man of wealth who employs others to cultivate it. We 
desire it to be connected with every farm house throughout 
the lengtli and breadth of tlie land. It is better to have 
gi'ound planted with useful vegetables, than to be overrun by 
pestiferous weeds. The occupation is a noble one, and we 
cannot think of any manual labor Avhich is more worthy the 
notice of the gentleman and the student, or the farmer and 
t])e mechanic. It becomes us not to neglect those treasures 
of the vegetable kingdom, which a good Providence has ap- 
pointed for our susti'uance and enjoyment, and wliich He has 
been graciously pleased to place within oui- reach. 

Q 



^<I» J ■ ■ t- m 



THE FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 



THE SITUATION. 



jS^ot a little judgment should be exercised in the selection 
of the ground; for, as has been justly remarked, a poor situa- 
tion cannot be improved, like a sterile soil, by skilful manage- 
ment. The choice, when once made, is generally final. It 
would be quite unprofitable, to say the least, for a person to 
depend upon actual experunent, and to keep shifting his 
frames and plants from one place to another, imtil he can find 
one perfectly satisfactory. A garden spot is intended for a 
hfe time, and it, therefore, behooves the owmer not to make a 
selection of the site, until he shall have given due consideration 
to the respective advantages and disadvantages of such lo- 
caUties as present themselves to his notice. But we would, 
at the same time, remind him, that it is very seldom a situa- 
tion can be found which is in every way desirable. He must 
select the best one that his premises offer, and then exercise 
his ingenuity in remedying the defects, as well as in improving 
the advantages of nature. 

The first thought should always be regarding the aspect 
or exposure. Although authorities apparently differ much on 
tliis important point, yet, after all, it would seem that a pref- 
erence i5 given to a gentle inchnation towards the south-east. 
A nortliern aspect may then be considered as generally un- 
favorable ; still, on some accounts, it is to be desired. Several 
kinds of vegetables, — such as spinach, cauliflower, and peas, 
yield mofe abundantly, especially in dry seasons, when not 
exposed to the full power of the sun. Vegetable growth is 
also in the same way retarded, and will thereby afford a long 



16 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



succession of crops, instead of running up to seed in the early 
part of summer. It miglit, therefore, be deemed advisable to 
select an exposure to two or three different points of the com- 
pass. Perhaps a small knoll in the centre of the grounds 
"would be considered advantageous. The inclination should in 
all cases be slight. Where it is so great that there is danger 
of the soil being waslied away by heavy rains, it would be 
well to throw up a series of terraces, faced with tiu-f 

A moderate elevation should be secured, if possible. The 
garden ought to be neither on a hill, nor in a valley, as they 
are equally objectionable ; the first being exposed to inclem- 
ent winds, and tlie second to damp vapors, early frost, and that 
sourness of the soil which is so difficult to eradicate. 

Convenience of access is by no means the most unimpor- 
tant point to be borne in mind. The garden ought to be near 
the stable whence supplied with manure, and not far distant 
from the dwelling-house, "lest," as Dr. Deane quaintly ob- 
serves, "being too much out of sight, it should be out of mind, 
and the necessary cjjltm-e of it too much neglected." 

THE SOIL. 

Tlie best soil for general purposes is a rich sandy loam, 
two or three feet deep, well drained, and sufficiently mellow 
to be easy of cultivation at any season of the year wdien not 
frozen. Some authors pretend to say, that in a good garden 
two varieties of soil are necessaiy. However desirable this 
may be on some accounts, we think that where a strict rotation 
is observed, a healthy loam of rather a sandy character will 
be sufficient. 

Should circumstances render necessary the selection of a 
loose sand, a hard gravel, or a fe:iff, heavy clay — which may 
be considered the very worst kinds of soil for culture — their 
peculiar characteristics must first be corrected, before they 
can be cropped with success. T^ sand is so porous that it 



FOIDIATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. J 7 

cannot retain manui-e and moisture for any length of time, 
while so permeable to heat that in hot weather its vegetation 
will be parched and almost burned up. The gravel is still 
worse, because when stirred by the spade, it becomes greedy> 
swallows every ounce of nutriment fm^nished, and then cries 
for more ; so that it has acquired the name of a " hungry " 
soil. Indeed, the expense and difficulty of bringing it into 
good condition are such, that we can scarcely recommend the 
attempt. The heavy clay is bad for very different reasons. It 
is tenacious and retentive of water, a property wliich is in- 
jmious to almost every cuhnary vegetable ; with the adchtional 
disadvantage that it cannot be worked when wet, thereby 
causing a great loss of time in spring. 

As the sand is light and porous, and the clay stiff and 
heavy, by mixing them judiciously a very fine loam may be 
obtained. The first named is also improved by the addition 
of hme, plaster, ashes, and any kind of vegetable manure ; and 
the second, by lime, htter, horsedung, or anything which tends 
to the reparation of its particles. Lime and plaster operate 
favorably upon both, correcting the looseness of the one, and 
the tenacity of the other. Some persons even go to the ex- 
pense of carting good soil from a distance ; they should always 
select that which is rich and full of vegetable fibre, such as is 
found in a wood-lot, or a field which has long lain fallow. 
This practice is much • followed in Great Britain, but labor is 
too dear for its general adoption in this country. We have 
read of the soil in the kitchen garden belonging to the Duke 
of Buccleugh, twelve acres in extent, having been filled in to 
the depth of three feet. It can easily be calculated by the 
reader, that for such an enormous labor, the revenues of none 
other than a duke would be sufficient. Nevertheless, it is a 
maxim quite applicable to this country, that a judicious ex- 
penditure at the outset, will do much for subsequent success 
and satisfaction. 

If both situation and soil be good, then there will be httle 
2# 



18 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

difficulty in obtaining a productive garden ; if otherwise, their 
disadvantages must be overcome as far as possible bj in- 
creased attention and perseverance. 

SIZE AND SHAPE. 

These particulars are to be determined wholly by circum- 
stances, — the nature of the ground, as well as the wants and 
ability of the owner. 

It may serve as some criterion for the reader, to state that 
a single acre will furnish steady employment for one man, 
who Avill probably need an assistant at the busy periods of 
the year.- But the produce of that acre varies so much with 
locality, season and management, that it is impossible to make 
any estimate of the space required to supply the wants of a 
certain number of individuals. It must in every case be de- 
cided by the size of the family, their partiality for vegetables, 
and the fertility of the ground. 

It is a primary principle in horticulture, to raise the greatest 
quantity from the smallest surfece. Then, is it not better to 
start with a small garden, to till it well, and, if it be found 
insufficient, to add to its dimensions ; rather than to attempt 
the cultui'e of too much, so as to become discouraged at not 
receiving even interest upon the investment of capital and 
labor ? 

The amount which one rod of land can be made to produce, 
is truly astonishing. An old story tells the experience of a 
Roman vine-dresser, who had two daughters. When the eld- 
est was married, he set a-ide for her portion one third of the 
vineyard ; notwithstanding whicli, he still obtained the same 
quantity of fruit as before. And when the youngest was 
married, he gave her one half of the ground that remained, 
leaving to himself only a third part of the original tract ; still 
the produce was undiminished. Tliis illustrates the value of 
small holdings, and shows that a single rod may be made to 



FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. jg 

yield as much as a lot several times larger, provided a reason- 
able degree of skill be exercised in its cultivation. We prefer 
seeing a small garden "wliich is well managed, rather than a 
large one half overgrown with weeds. 

As regards shape, that must be determined by individual 
taste, as well as by the position of the ground. However, it 
is well to state that the square and parallelogram are de- 
servedly approved forms, because adapted to a cheap, easy 
and regular arrangement of the beds and walks. The paral- 
lelogram, if running cast and west, has (lie further advantage 
of a long, warm border facing the south, with one of equal 
length facing the nortli ; which borders, from the difference in 
their exposure to the sun, are excellent locations for early and 
late crops. 

ENCLOSURE. 

Shelter of some kind is needed upon the nortli and west 
sides. It is generally known, that on a north border protected 
by a high, close fence, small plajits, like lettuce and radishes, 
may be brought forward from ten days to a fortnight earlier 
in spring, than when sown in an open compartment ; and it is, 
moreover, an excellent situation for tender cauliflowers from 
tlie hot-bed, or for such hardy vegetables as are allowed to 
remain in the ground through the winter. Low buildings at 
the north-east corner, will do much in breaking the force of 
strong, piercing winds from that quarter. But the \dcinity of 
large trees is to be avoided, because vegetation is injured by 
their shade, and the soil robbed of its most valuable properties 
by their spreading roots. 

A high stone wall, laid in mortar, is considered the best 
protection; but the cost of its erection will influence most 
persons in favor of a wooden fence, made of either close boards, 
or open pickets. In many places, the entire enclosure of the 
garden is necessary, to guard against the encroachments of 



20 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



poultry or other two-legged animals. In this case, there will 
be a fine border, having a northern aspect, for currants, and 
such plants as lettuce and peas, which suffer when exposed to 
the full influence of a summer sun. The sides of the wall, or 
fence, may be covered with grape-vines, or trained fruit trees ; 
thus, at the same time, being made to answer several impor- 
tant purposes. 

INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS. 

''Strength may wield the ponderous spade, 
May turn the clod, and wheel the compost home ; 
But Elegance, chief grace the garden shows, 
And most attractive, is the fair result 
Of thought, the creature of a polished mind." 

By the phrase " Internal Arrangements," we mean the di- 
vision of the garden into quarters, borders, beds, Avalks, etc. 
This laying out the ground must be regulated wholly by the 
taste of the gardener, and we, tlierefore, venture to offer only 
a few hints in regard thereto, instead of giving precise direc- 
tions. As far as our opinion may be worthy of notice, we 
should recommend regular divisions made by the square and 
line. Such are most easily laid out, and most conveniently 
kept in order. Serpentine walks, with crescent, star or bean- 
shaped beds, are all very appropriate for the flower garden , 
but they seem hardly suited for such hiunble tenants as cab- 
bages, potatoes and onions. It is a rule to be constantly borne 
in mind by the proprietor of a kitchen garden, that his main 
object be utility, rather than ornament. 

At least one path should be of sufficient width to admit 
the wagon or cart, which will be required at certain seasons to 
bring in dung, or to carry off produce. Foot-paths need not 
be over three feet wide, and the alleys between the beds not 
over twelve or eighteen inches. The border extends all 
axound the garden, and is from six to ten feet wide, with a 



FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 21 

foot-path in front. Tlie beds ought to be narrow — say four 
or five feet wide, such being the most easy to cultivate. The 
numerous alleys, of course, occupy a great deal of room, but 
tliey possess the advantages of convenience and neatness, in 
enabling the workmen to clean or gather the crops, without 
trampling upon the beds. The principal paths might be dug 
out to the depth of two feet or more, and then become places 
of deposit for the stones removed fi'om the quarters. A thin 
layer of gravel, tan, or even common earth, would render the 
paths hard and dry to the feet at all seasons. 

In connection with the above hints, a diagram or 
plan of our own garden may be deemed not out of place. 
It will be found on the following page. It is in the 
shape of a parallelogram, running east and west, with 
the entrance on the south side. The border inside the 
fence is about eight feet wide; that part facing the west, 
south and east, is adapted for such plants as require a warm 
exposure, and the other for such as need shelter from the 
mid-day sun. In front of the border is a foot-path three feet 
wide. Directly in the centre of the garden is the tool-house, 
beneath which is a good location for a cistern. Here meet 
the four principal paths, which divide the large plat into four 
equal parts, or " quarters" as they are generally called by 
English gardeners. These paths are of sufficient width to 
admit the wagon, wliich can turn around the tool-house, and 
return through the same path, so as to avoid the necessity of 
having more than one entrance. The quarters are of equal 
size, so that a four-year rotation of crops may readily be 
observed. The tool-house and cistern being in the centre, are 
convenient of access from every part of the grounds. Cur- 
rants, gooseberries, raspberries and quinces are set out on the 
edges of the principal paths running north and south, and the 
grape vines are trained upon the fence. Dwarf fruit trees 
might be placed in the border, where neither their roots nor 
their tops would be likely to occasion much injury. This 



22 FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 




GARDENERS TEXT -BOOK. 23 

short description will enable any intelligent reader, who ap- 
proves of the plan, to adopt it, with such modifications as his 
own taste may suggest. 

Although in this business of laying out a garden, ornament 
is a mere secondary consideration, yet perfect regularity and 
neatness are attained with httle extra labor, and they will cer- 
tainly add much to the gardener's interest in the spot. The 
eccentric William Cobbett said, that it is quite as reasonable for 
a man to take pleasure in a garden which is tastefully arranged, 
and tidily kept, as it is for a woman to delight in a fine di*ess ; 
and he will be as anxious to preserve the neat appearance of 
the beds and walks, as she to protect her gown from dust or 
grease, from being fiided by the sun, or eaten by moths. We 
all take best care of that wliich is most pleasant to the eye. 

THE-CrSTERK 

An abundant supply of water is of great advantage. Yege 
tables recently transplanted often droop, and, if they do not 
die, are much retarded in their growth for the want of moisture. 
And in the middle of summer, the heat is sometimes so exces- 
sive that the most promising plants " wilt down," as it is 
termed, and nothing but. prompt attention will save them. In 
our own grounds, we have often experienced the advantage of 
applying water in such cases, even after the heads had fallen 
over, and the stems had turned yellow for several inches above 
the roots. 

Loudon remaj-ks, that " many kitchen crops are lost, or pro- 
duced of very inferior quality, for want of watering. Lettuces 
and cabbages are often hard and stringy; turnips and radishes 
do not swell; onions decay ; cauhfiowers die otf; and, in gene- 
ral, in diy seasons, all the cruciferce become stinted or covered 
with insects, even in rich, deep soils. Copious waterings in the 
evenings, during the dry seasons, would produce that fulness 
and succulency which we find in the vegetables produced in the 



24 FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 

Low Countries, and in the Marsh Gardens at Paris, and in 
England at the beginning and latter end of tlie season." 

The Marsh Gardens here spoken of, are so called from being 
in a low district wliicli was formerly a swamp. The soil is 
naturally a poor sand, but it has become by careful cultiration 
a very rich mould. From its porous nature, and the frequent 
recurrence of dry summers, it would produce little without con- 
stant and abundant watering. The raising of water from 
numerous wells dispersed through the grounds, and conveying 
it to the growing plants, is the most laborious part of the 
whole process of cultivation. By such means, the growth of 
vegetation is accelerated, and crop succeeds ci'op with astonish- 
ing rapidity. We notice these Gardens thus particularly, to 
show how a pot>r situation may be made productive by the 
regular supply of moisture. We are not disposed to recom- 
mend any reader to the adoption of such a task upon his own 
premises ; for, aside from the actual labor required, the vege- 
tables thus obtained have not the agreeable flavor of those 
raised by a more natural process. 

And we think, further, that the wholesale mode of apply- 
ing water practiced by some gardeners, is positively detri 
mental to the objects of their care. Our own experience haf 
satisfied us, that it is only v/hea given racxlerately and witli 
discretion, that water becomes a useful assistant. We are not 
prepared to recommend its regular application through the 
growing season, as, of however much benefit it may bo, it is 
scarcely practicable by the majority of our readers. But we 
have no hesitation in suggesting, that it be applied at certain 
periods in the growth of particular plants, which can not be 
brought to perfection without an abundant supply of moisture^ 
applied either naturally or artificially, viz. when in the seed- 
bed, when removed to the open compartment, in time of 
drought, and when perfecting their seed-vessels. There can be 
no doubt of the real advantage to bo derived from such a mo- 
derate course. 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 2? 

When the garden is small, it can be supplied, hj two or 
three hours' labor in the evening, witli water brought from the 
kitchen cistern— especially if it be not far distant. This can be 
done in tlie watering pot, or in the large garden engine, or in a 
common barrel. (See article on " The Tool House and its cox- 
TKNTS.'*) But where the grounds are extensive, the gardener 
will look for a supply within the limits. " They are happy," 
says Dr. Deane, who can resort to a pond or rivulet. "When 
these are wanting, recourse must be had to a cistern receiving 
the rain water which falls upon the dwelling-house and out- 
buildings. Indeed, rain water is preferable, because contain- 
mg those ga^es which are of most benefit to the plants ; the 
application of pond or spring water, on the contrary, is some- 
times attended with injury. 

If the buildings be upon elevated ground, the cistern may 
be located there, from which the water will descend by its own 
weight, tlirough a pipe, to the garden below. In this case.hose 
caq^ be attached to the hydrant, and the grounds sprinkled 
without the labor of raising the water by a pump, and then 
carrying it to the spot where it is requhed. Or, if this be not 
practicable, the cistern must be located in the garden itself, as 
near the centre as possible, and the water conducted thereto by 
a pipe, and raided by means of a pump <w windlass. Any 
such work as this will, of course, be intrissted to a skilful ma- 
son. In the description of our own garden, we remarked that 
a cistern miglit be put under the tool Irouse, as that is a cen- 
tral position, and convenient of access fn>m every part of the 
grounds. The reader, before he makes any such anangements 
for a supply of water, will ask himself whether the extra labor 
of bringing it for a short distance, in the engine or barrel, will 
justify the cost of a second cistern with its necessary appen- 
dages. Economy should in eveiy case be regarded, for "a 
penny saved is a penny earned." 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
THE FORCING-PIT. 



Fiff. 1. 




This is used in bringing vegetables forward at unnatural 
seasons of the year, and is by most persons considered an es- 
sential part of every g<jpd-sized garden. We, however, do 
not think so highly of its merits. About all of its advantages 
are common to the hot-bed, which is vastly more convenient, 
and less expensive. But, that all classes of readers may be 
satisfied, we here appeiid a short description of its appearance. 

It is a rectangular frame er bin, partly sunk in the ground, 
and covered with sash-lights. It may be built of heavy plank, 
brick or stone ; the first named is objectionable, because it 
will have to be renewed every few years. The rear, or nortli 
wall, is about four feet high, and the front one is some ten or 
twelve inches lower. The width is six or eiglit feet, accord- 
ing to the size of the sashes used, while the length will be 
regulated by the wants of the owner. Light rafters to support 
the sashes, are tin-own across at proper distances. It lias 
been suggested by Mr. Buist, that these rafters be movable^ 
so that the glass can be raised as soon as it shall be touched 
by the plants within. This is effected by taking out the raf- 
ters and placing them in a wooden framework — say twelve 
iaches high — which is then set upon the pit walls. The pit, 



FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 27 

•when covered with mats, forms an excellent winter apartment 
for house plants. 

We quite agree with Dr. Lindley, the celebrated horti- 
culturist, in thinking that liowever desirable it may be to have 
fresh vegetables throughout the year, those which are forced 
will be found less palatable and less nutritious than those 
grown in the natural way. Their excellence is sacrificed to 
the merits of rarity and extraordinary size. It is with them 
as with flowers, which always lose their beauty and fra- 
grance when subjected to great artificial heat. 

THE TOOL HOUSE AND ITS CONTENTS. 

A gardener ought no more to be without the proper im- 
plements of his art, than a tailor should be without his press- 
board, a mason without his trowel, or a professional man with- 
out his library. There are a few tools which are indispensa- 
ble ; these are the spade, the hoe, and the rake. The others 
mentioned in the following list, though they may not be con- 
sidered absolutely necessary, will be found valuable assistants. 
Money spent in the purchase of those wliich will economize 
time, or will render labor less severe and irksome, is by no 
means thrown away. He who has charge of a large garden, 
will require many which another person can very well get 
along without. In making the selection of the most useful, 
much discrimination must be exercised ; as many articles are 
yearly brought forward, and highlj^ praised by persons in- 
terested in their manufacture, which have Uttle to recommend 
them besides novelty of construction. 

In buying tools, the gardener should bear in mind, that the 
lowest-priced is not always the most desirable. It may 
be of very inferior chai'acter, — the materials being of poor 
quality, or put together upon wrong principles. In either of 
these cases, it will be found less serviceable than another 
which would have cost perhaps only a trifle more. The wood- 



2g GAUDEXER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

work should be straight-grained, and well seasoned : the 
metal properly tempered, and free from flaws. Neither 
ought to be lieavier than is essential to durability. The ex- 
tra weight of an ounce in a hoe or a spade, causes the laborer 
to exert many pounds of strength unnecessarily during aa 
hour's work. 

Good care should always be taken of tools, because they 
then last longer than they would if exposed to tlie weather, 
besides standing in less danger of being lost or stolen. When 
not in use, they ought to be stored in a shed, or some old 
building, where they will be guarded from the influences of 
sun and storm. And then too, it will be known where they 
can always be found. It is a bad plan to spend an hour in 
bunting after a spade every time it is wanted. The decay 
of the wood will be prevented by an occasional coat of paint. 

In a garden of moderate size, the tools may be kept in 
any convenient place about the premises, where they will be 
secure. But in a large piece of ground, it is desirable to have 
everything near at hand. Any old shed will answer, but a 
very tasteful building can be specially erected ^for the pur- 
pose, at a small expense. 

In the diagram of our oa^ti grounds, it will bo seen that 
the tool house is located in the centre, where it is convenient 
to the persons employed in either quarter. To the eye it is 
nothing more than a rustic summer-house, overgr(.)wn witli 
vines ; but we have little |iooks and shelves beneath the seats, 
on which the smaller tools are placed when not in actual 
use. The large articles, such as the wheel-barrow, engine, 
sash-lights, hot-bed frames, &c., whicli occupy considerable 
space, are put in a,nother building. 

, A set of rules for tlie guidance of the workmen, is hung in 
a conspicuous position. The first one is that old standard 
maxim — " Have a place for everything, and everi/tkinr/ in its 
place" The second is scarcely less important — " No tool shali 
be put away when dirty, or out of repair." 



FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 



29 



Fig.1 




The Haxd-Glass is made either 
of hard wood, or cast iron. It is 
a glass case, with a pyramidal- 
shaped cover ; and is used for 
forwarding early plants, or shel- 
tering such as are taken from the 
^ hot-bed and set out in an open 
compartment. "\r\''hen air is to be 
given to the plants, tiie cover is placed in the manner repre- 
sented in Fig. 2. 

The HoT-BKD Frame should always be of good sound plank, 
with close joints to prevent tlie admis.-^ion of air and water. It 
may be made of any required lengtli, but in width should con- 
form to the length of the sash lights. The front side is usually 
nine or twelve iiiclies high, and the back side fiom six to ten 
indies higlier, so that the glass may be inclined towards the 
soutli, as well for the benefit of the sun, as for allowing the 
water to run off. Cross-pieces will be requii^ed at suitable 
distances fi)r the support oi tlie sashes ; they may be about one 
incli tliickand three inches wide, and dove- 
tailed into the planks. Where tlie hot-bed 
is made witli an inclined surface, (see the 
article on " Foacixo Vegetation,'') the 
sides of the frame should be of equal 
height. It is a very good plan to liave the 
planks fastened tdgetlier by hooks and 
staples, so that when not in use, thl^ can 
be talvtn apart and piled up for protection 
from the Aveather. 

Sash-lights should be made of well- 
seasoned wood, about one and a half 
inches thick, and small, cheap glass. They 
may be of any length desiied, but a width 
of three feet and a half is most convenient. 
The wood must have two coats of oil paint 







Fig. 


8. 






\ 


































i 








i 








— 















































30 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



before glazing, and one afterwards. This care will preserve 
it many years. Tliis precaution is very important. 

Fig. A. 




Tlie Yine-Shield (Fig. 4) we Imve found of great use in 
protecting young plants from the cold, and the attacks of ver- 
min. It costs little, and will last many seasons. It is merely 
a small frame, made of thin boards, with a pane of glass in 
the top. The sides should be bevelled so that one screen can 
be set inside another without touching the glass, and V>y this 
means they will occupy less room when stored away. The 
size we find most convenient, is four inches high, and large 
enough on the top to accommodate eight by ten inch glass. 

Fig. 5. 




Tlie "Wheelbarrow may be considered as veiy essential. 
In fact, no piece of ground, meriting the name of garden, can 
be cultivated without its assistance. It should be made of the 
best materials, and then it may be light and easily moved from 
place to place. ISTor should an occasional coat of paint be ne- 
glected, if its preservation be deemed important 



FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Fici. 6. 





Shovels and Spades are too 
well known to require descrip- 
tion. We can only advise tlie garr 
dener to purchase tlie best articles, 
although costing more than those 
of an inferior quality. 

Forks are by many persons 
preferred J;o the spade, because m 
digging •mth them, the labor is di- 
minislied, and tlie pulverization of 
the soil better effected. They are 
also necessary for the manure heap, 
as well as for breaking up the sur- 
face of beds in spring. 

Hoes are of various shapes and 
sizes. !Fig. 8 includes several dif- 
ferent kinds. The two marked d 
and / are the Dutch, Thrust or 



32 



GARDENEJl'S TEXT-BOOK. 



Scuffle hoes, useful for cleaning walks, cutting weeds, and stir- 
ring the soil. That marked c is called the Forhed-bacTc, 
which is a very efficient implement for loosening the soil 
without danger of injuring the plants. The hoe has been 
termed the gardener's best friend. It is often unnecessarily 
heavy, and the purchaser should be careful to pick out one 
which is both light and strong. 

Fig. 8. 




The Hand-Cultivator (Fig. 9) is made of iron, and expands 
from ten to eigliteen inches. By being drawn between the rows 
of vegetables it performs the work of several men with hoes, 
in stirring the soil, and cutting up weeds. It will be found 
of great advantaire in a larire srarden. 



FORMATION OF A KrTCIIEX GARDEN 
Fig. 9. 



33 





The Rake ought to be of the best 
■\vrought iron. There are many different 
kinds, yarjing in the length and number of 
theii- teeth. For general use, peihaps one 
having teetli about two -and a half inches 
ong and one and a half inches apart 
will be most suitable. The handle 
should be as light as consistent with strength, and made of 
sound, straight-grained wood. 

The Reel and Line are used for lay- 
ing out beds and walks. Tlie reel ought 
to be made of irtai or strong wood, and 
the line should be of medium size. 
"When not in use, they are to be kept 
under cover, j^ exposure to the weather 
would soon rot the line. 

The Seed Sov.er, is very serviceable 
in a large garden. It is quite light, 
durable, and not likely to get out of 
order. As it is pushed forward by the 
operator, the ground is opened, while 
the seed is dropped, covered and rolled 
all at the same time. It is easily 
adapted to seeds of different sizes, and drops them in hills or 
drills, and thinly or plentifully, just as may be desired. 




34 



GAE-DENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 







FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Fig. 13. 



35 





Drill-Rakes are for marking drills in seed beds. The 
gardener may have several sizes, with the teeth set at vari- 
ous distances apart, as six, eight, ten, twelve, and fourteen 
inches. The whole may be made of wood, or with Fig. 14, 
a wooden head and steel teeth. By this effective 
implement four or five drills can be drawn at the 
same time, thus greatly facilitating labor at the 
most important season of the year, and securing the 
neat appearance of the bed. 

The Dibble is used for making holes in which to 
set out roots or plants. It is generally made of an 
old spade handle, having the lower part sharpened, 
and sometimes shod with iron. Tlie depth of its 
insertion in the ground may be regulated by a small 
peg, which can be placed at various heights. 

Pruxing-Shears are of several patterns. They are found 
useful in trimming currant bushes, raspberries, gooseberries, 
and especially grape vines. 

Fig. 15. 




Gakdek-Shears are convenient for trimmmg box and 
hedges, and grass borders. They are found of various sizes. 
Each one may consult his own taste for that ; but it is impor* 



r 



36 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



tant that tliey should be of the best metal, as they are 
liable to lose their edge from cutting hard substances. They 
sliould be kept dry to prevent rust. 

Fig. 16. 




The Trowel is a very valuable tool for transplanting caV 
bages, (fee. ; as the plants can be taken up with balls of earth 
attached, and set out in another part of the garden with but 
little danger of injuring the roots. 

Fig. 17. 




The Watkrixg Pot will be found necessary, where water- 
ing the plants is practiced. It is made of different sizes. 
When not in use, hang it so that the water can run out of the 
rose. If well taken care of, and occasionally painted, it will 
last a long time. 

Fig. 18. 




FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 



37 



Tlie Water-Caerter is a tight barrel or cask, attached to 
a pair of old wheels, and used for carrying water about the 
grounds. When large quantities of water are wanted, this is 
far less tiresome work than to carry it in buckets. Besides it 
makes a great saving of time. No one who has ever made use 
of one would willingly be deprived of it. The cost of it 
would be saved in one season. 

Fig. 19. 




The Garden-Exgine; is adapted to the wants of a very 
large garden. The one represented in Fig. 21, will hold about 
forty gallons, and can be easily wheeled around and worked 
by one person. It will throw water to the height of forty 
feet, and to the distance of t^eventy feet horizontally. It may^ 
therefore, be found of use in extinguishing fii-e in buildings. 

Fiq. 20. 




GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 



THE EMPLOYMENT OF TIME. 

The object of the gardener is to bring, his vegetables forward 
to perfection, in the shortest period of time, and at the smallest 
expense. His success depends mainly upon the Qbservauce of 
certain principles, whieli are few in nmiiber, and easy of com- 
prehension, viz. : depth and fertility of soil ; a proper rotation 
of crops ; selecting the best varieties of seeds ; sowing at the 
most suitable seasons ; a strict attention to the wants of the 
growing plant ; the destruction of weeds and insects ; keeping 
the soil open to the beneficial influences of the atmosphere ; the 
application of water in time of drought ; and care in raising 
seeds for future use. Under such management, unless tliere 
be some unusual natural occurrences to prevent, he may be 
sure of an ample return for his industry. In tliis chapter we 
propose to iEustrate tliese principles moi->e in detail ; but, by 
wa}"" of preface, shall offer a few practical suggestions upon 
the employment of time, wliieh, perhaps, may not be uuwortliy 
of the reader's attention. 

An old proverb declares that "time is money." And, in- 
deed, he who makes an improper use of it, is as Uttle deserving 
of pity as the prodigal who wastes all his substance in riotous 
living. Of all men who earn a subsistence by the sweat of 
the brow, the gardener can least afford to be idle. Tiie sea- 
sons of the year roll round in their course, and make no pause 
for. the footsteps of the sluggard. In the garden there is 
always something to be done ; each month has its appropriate 
duties; and the workman must not suffer himself to fall 
behind hand, with the idea that he can at any hour catch up 
with hiawork. Not bo ; for of all things lost, time is about the 



GENERAL MANAGE:MENT. 39 

most difficult to regain, if what I'oor Richard says be true, — 
" Lost time is never found again. He that riseth late must 
ti'ot all day, and shall scarce overtake his business at night." 

Procrastination may cause serious injury; — the proper 
season for committing the seed to the ground may pass by ; 
or the labors of months may be destroyed in a single day. 
The gardener should not suffer his work to get in arrear. If he 
be so unfortunate, his troubles increase at every turn ; he finds 
liimself unprepared for the duties of the present moment, 
because lost time must first be redeemed. And, ten chances 
to one, after striving hard to regain his former position, and 
after battling manfully against the encroachments of weeds 
and insects, he becomes discouraged, throws aside the hoe, and 
permits the crops to come to maturity as they will. 

But, good reader, our advice is not only " to keep up with 
your work," as it is familiarly termed, but also to keep in ad- 
vance of it, whenever that be practicable. "Defer not until 
evening what the morning may accomplish." Tlie numerous 
advantages of such a course are so evident, that they here 
need no exposition. In the winter, you should prepare your- 
self for the approach of spring, so that you may welcome it 
with a cheerful spirit. There are numerous things which may 
be done at that season of the year, when the earth is locked 
up in the chill embraces of frost, that will facilitate labor at 
other times; such as bringing manure from the stable, and 
piling it up in a convenient place, getting the different imple- 
ments in order, hunting up bean poles and pea brush, etc., (fee. 
As soon as tl)e ground opens, and the weatlier becomes suffi- 
ciently mild, you will be in readiness to make the first sowing. 
Tliere will be no hurry and confusion. If you be in advance 
of the regular time, you will gain much if the season prove 
auspicious ; but, if obliged, by unfavorable circumstances, to 
repeat the labor, you can still secure a crop. Thus, an emi- 
nent author has said, "The management of a garden consists 
in attention and application; the first should be of that wary 



40 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

and provident kind, as not only to do well in the present, but 
for the future ; and the application should be of so diligent a 
nature, as ' never to defer that till to-morrow v/hich may be 
done to-day.' " 

What is the proper time for work ? The most important 
duties of the year are crowded into a few weeks of spring, yet 
there is much to be done at every other season. Industry at 
that particular period is generally considered most unneces- 
sary, because if the ground be once planted and afterwards 
neglected, there is always a possibility of the vegetables being 
able to live through the various attacks of their enemies. But, 
shoxild the owner of the garden be then idle, he has afterwards 
no chance to retrieve his error. " The sluggard will not plough 
by reason of the cold ; therefore, shall he beg in harvest and 
Lave nothing." 

From these remarks, however, we must not be considered 
as discouraging labor at other seasons, or recommending the 
mere preparation of the ground, and then leaving the result to 
nature. Not by any means. The person who thus wastes 
time and money, deseiwes not the honorable title of a garden- 
er. During the summer and autumn, and even during a 
part of winter, there is always something to be done. The 
truly industrious man will not find himself at a loss for work. 
The ground is to be stirred, weeds to be cut down, vermin to 
be destroyed, walks to be cleaned, manure to be prepared, — 
and so on from one year's end to another. If the duties of each 
season and each month be not punctually met in their turn 
there can be little ground of hope for a generous reward. The 
gardener must not suffer himself to be idle, so long as a single 
green thing is to be seen upon his premises. Many an esti- 
mate of liis character will be drawn from nothing else than the 
neat, or slovenly appearance of his beds. Self-respect, even if 
there be no other consideration, should prompt liim to the for- 
mation of industrious habits, and to the exercise of persever- 
ance under every discouragement. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 41 

He should also learn to economize time. The farmei*, or a 
person wlio is engaged in other business, has only a few spare 
minutes each day to devote to the culture of his garden. 
Even this short allowance may be made productive of the best 
results. We know several merchants, who, by rising early and 
devoting an hour or two to their vegetables before breakfast, 
not only preserve their bodily health, but have the satisfaction 
of supplying their own tables with the most nutritious food 
throughout the year. One hour in the cool of the morning, is 
worth three or four in tlie heat and dust of mid-day. Beware 
of the " yet a little sleep, a little slumber, a little folding of 
the hands to sleep," when your plants are majcing loud calls 
upon your attention. 

It is only by such judicious management, that one having 
the care of a garden, can hope to derive profit or pleasure 
from its cultivation. He who makes no effort at success, 
surely deserves not the reward. He Uttle merits the prize, 
who is willing to see it snatched from his hand without a 
struggle to detain it. Natui-e is lavish of her bounties, but she 
gives them to none but those who base their claims upon un- 
tiring industry aod perseverance. 

A PROaRAM-ME OF LABOR. 

Before he ventures to leave port, the m.ariner decides upon 
the course he is to pursue across the trackless ocean ; not 
waiting for circumstances to determine wliither he shall direct 
his vessaL The architect, who is engaged in building a house, 
before lie suffers the first stone to be laid, draws up his plans, 
and makes an estimate of its cost. The several advantages of 
doing this are sufficiently obvious Now, it seems to us, that 
it is scarcely less important for the farmer and gardener to lay 
down plans of their work, than fur the sailor to mark out hia 
voyage upon the chart, or for the builder to design the eleva- 
tion of his house. It is with each an object to economize tim« 
4* 



42 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

and prevent disappointment. He is always a shiftless fellow, 
who works without any settled plan, and shapes his course by 
contingencies as they arise. We never like to see a farmer 
delayed in the spring, merely because he don't know where 
first to insert the ploughshare ; it is perfectly clear that he has 
no system nor niethod, and that he is liable to many defeats in 
consequence. The success of tlie gardener who is tlius situ- 
ated, is even yet moi-e precarious. 

What we would earnestly recommend, is for the reader, at 
the commencement of each year, to di"aw up a programme of 
its operations. By this means, he need never be at a loss what 
to do next ; when the season of spring iairly opens, he is not 
obliged to waste time, so precious at this juncture, in deciding 
how the ground shall be laid out, or where particular plants 
are to be cultivated. This programme should be a neat dia- 
gram of the garden, with its borders and principaf compart- 
ments apportioned out among the different vegetables. Of 
course, many alterations will be made in this plan, from time 
to time, as unforeseen circumstances may render advisable ; and 
to avoid defacing the paper, it might be best to use a lead 
pencil for inserting the names, so that they can easily be 
rubbed out by india-rubber. When no further corrections are 
to be made, the names can be written in mk. This is a very 
pretty employment for long winter evenings, when the garden- 
er has plenty of time at command. The trouble and expense 
are nothing, compared with the actual benefit to be derived 
from the use of such a programme. It lightens and expedites 
labor, besides saving much trouble and perplexity, at the busy 
seasons. 

DEPTH AND MELLOWNESS OF THE SOIL. 

Depth and mellowness of soil may be considered the princi- 
pal characteristics of successful gardening. In our school-boy 
days, we have all read of the dying husbandman, who told his 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 43 

son never to part with the vineyard, as there was a valuable 
treasure lying within a few inches of the surface. The young 
man, in the expectation of finding a bag of money, carefully 
turned over the soil, but found nothing. In tlie subsequent 
harvest, however, he was astonished at the extraordinary 
luxuriance of his crops, and then understood for the fir^t time 
the enigmatical meaning of his father's words. 

The most obvious advantage of having a deep, mellow 
soil, is that the roots of plants are thereby enabled to extend 
themselves further, and w4th greater facility, in search of 
nutriment. The delicate fibrils of the onion have been traced 
to the depth of two feet, and those of the Swedish turnip to 
the depth of five feet, below the surface. And long after they 
become invisible to the naked eye, they may be detected, by the 
aid of a microscope, pushing down deeper and deeper their 
thread-. ike extremities. Downing remarks, " I have seen the 
roots of strawberries extend five feet down in a rich, deep soil; 
and those plants bore a crop of fruit five times as large, and 
twice as handsome and good, as the common product of a 
soil only one foot deep." Every one who knows for what pur- 
poses roots are designed, viz. : to gather food from the soil, as 
well as to support tlie stem in an upright position, will per- 
ceive that as their foraging ground may be extended, so the 
health and vigor of the plants to which they belong will be 
increased. 

A deep loam derives much benefit from the atmosphere, 
in the development of its natural powers of productiveness. 
It has also been a-certained, that the air we breathe is charged 
with a large per centage of the elements of vegetable growth, 
which it readily yields to a light, porous soil. Such a soil 
permits the immediate escape of water after heavy rains, and 
yet, by its capillary attraction furnishes a supply of moistm'e 
during a protracted drought. By its friability, it is more 
capable of absorbing heat during sunshine, and, therefore, more 
sensible of the early approaches of spring ; and yet, it radiates 



44 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

heat so rapidly, tliat tlie depossit of dew in the summer nights 
is greatly facilitated. These latter two properties are very 
important, because the warmth of the sun is necessary for 
tlie roots, and because the free deposit of dew protects them 
from the fatal consequences of continued dry weather. 

In fact, the only soil suitable for gardening purposes, is 
one which is both deep and mellow — one which allows the 
roots to penetrate far below the surface, and is at tlie same 
time open to the meliorating influences of the atmosphere. A 
lich loam of but a few inches in depth, resting upon a cold, 
compact substratum, is hardly worth the trouble of cultivation. 
When the substratum is broken up, and made fertile by a 
regular process of tillage, then — and not until then — will its 
full powers be developed. Hence it appears, that the garden- 
er's first care, after he has got his ground properly laid out 
is to pulverize it thoroughly for the reception of the seed. 

If you liave not much experience in these matters, you will 
inquire, good reader, how this is to be accomplished ? In the 
outset, it may be as well to call in the assistance of a subsoil 
plough, which pulverizes the substratum -without bringing it to 
the surface. This will answer a very good purpose, especially 
if you be in a hurry to get the ground in readiness for plant- 
ing ; but, at all times afterward, avoid the use of a plough. 
The paths will be broken up, the small shrubs injured, and 
early plants destroyed, by tlie awkward movements of the 
team; and, in addition to all that, the work will be done 
neither neatly nor thoroughly. You must, therefore, resort to 
the spade, which is the honorable badge of your profession. 
Some persons prefer the fork, because in consequence of its 
being nuich lighter, it diminishes the labor, while it effects a 
more thorough pulverization of the soil. In this book, we 
shall always use the word spade, and let the reader take 
either implement, according to his own fiincy. 

Many works on tliis subject recommend " trenching," as it 
is called, by which the surface soil changes places with the 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 45 

barren subsoil. It is truly saiJ, that in course of time, the 
whole will become of equal depth and fertility. But a very 
important fact is overlooked, viz.: that until this be accom- 
phshed, the labor and expense of cultivation are much in- 
creased, and tliat the plants obtain only a scanty subsistence in 
their early stages, before the roots have penetrated to the rich 
soil. 

We consider the following a much better plan. It is some- 
times termed the " bastard system " of trenching, and is thus 
performed : — you commence at one corner of the bed, and 
open by the side of the path a trench two feet wide, and one 
spade deep, throwing the dirt into the path. Dig the bottom 
of the trench as thoroughly as possible, and mix with it the 
dung wliich is to be applied at this time. Run the spade 
down deep, and pulverize all the large clods. Then open a 
second trench of the same width and depth, throwing the dirt 
into the first one. Dig over the bottom in the manner above 
directed, and cover it Avith the top spit of the third trench; 
and so proceed until you reach the other side of the bed, 
where you find yourself with an open trench, which must bo 
filled by the earth lying in the path. 

By this method, the whole piece of ground is spaded about 
two feet deep, and manure is intimately mixed with the lower 
spit. The good surface soil is retained in its old position, 
while the improvement of the substratum is left to the grad- 
ual mixture of the two, as well as to the influence of manures 
and the atmosphere. This thorough digging should be re- 
peated every four or five years. To avoid the inconvenience 
of being obliged to do the whole at one time, it will be well 
to take one quarter every year, by which means the whole 
garden will be gone over in the required period. After this 
course has been pursued several times, and the whole soil has 
become moderately fertile, it may be well to try the trench- 
ing system; but, never at the formation of a garden. In 
trenching, you dig the fii-st trench two spades deep, and 



46 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 

nil in from the adjoining one — the top spit being placed at the 
bottom, and thus completely reversing the position of the sur- 
face and sub-soils. 

In addition to this quadrennial overturning, every bed 
will require an annual spading previous to the reception of 
the seed. It is performed somewhat in the way above de- 
scribed. Open a trench of the depth and width of the sjDade, 
and fill it by opening a second one, and so on to the other edge 
of the bed. Endeavor to raise about the same quantity of 
earth at each insertion of the spade, and deposite it in the 
trench with the bottom side uppermost. As you proceed, 
break up all the lumps, and keep the surface level, by a pecu- 
liar stroke which is soon acquired by practice. The work will 
be much facilitated by digging in a perfectly straiglit line, and 
to a uniform depth. If manure is to be applied, when old 
and well rotted, it may be spread upon the bed, and spaded 
under ; but if long and troublesome, it should be placed in the 
bottom of the trench. 

Tiie two kinds of trenching may be performed late in au- 
tumn, or in winter before severe cold weatlier sets in. At 
that time, the gardener will not be hurried, and there will also 
be the advantage of exposing grubs and larvae to the frost. 
The annual spading, or pulverization of the surface soil, had 
best be done in spring ; or it can be done roughly in autumn, 
and dressed over with the rake just previous to sowing. Dry 
weatlier should always be selected for this work, when the 
earth crumbles easily ; because, if wet or heavy, on being 
stirred thus by the sjiade, it becomes a kind of mortar, and the 
operation, instead of being advantageous, is in reality product- 
ive of much injury. 

MANURES. 

Giving manure to the soil, so as to furnish it with the con- 
stituents uf vegetable growth, is quite as important as its 
thorough ^pulverization. Jethfo TuU, the celebrated English 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 47 

agriculturist, more than a century ago maintained that the 
latter only is necessary to ensure abundant crops. This doc- 
trine, however, has long since been proved fallacious. The 
application of manifre is essential to fertility, and unless the 
soil be fertile, the gardener cannot derive much profit fi"om its 
cultivation. Where the raising of vegetables is conducted 
upon a large scale, as in market gardens, the land is not al- 
lowed to remain idle, but there is a regular succession of crops, 
one taking the place of another as soon as removed ; and yet, 
by the process of manuring, the land is all the time becoming 
better. Manure is all important;— with it, the gardener can 
do everything ; without it, nothing. By its power, the most 
sterile spot can be made fertile, and the wilderness made to 
blossom as the rose. But, the idea of producing vegetables 
without manure, is about equal to that of the farmer who ex- 
pects an ill-fed cow to give milk. Both the animal and the 
soil must be liberally supplied with food of good quality, be- 
fore they can be expected to yield a return. 

A garden of common size can, by propjr management, be 
kept in good tilth at a sniall annual expense. Where connected 
with a farm, the principal supply of manure will be drawn 
from the barn-yard, or the stable. Everything which will act 
as a fertilizer should be carefully husbanded ; as cents will by 
accumulation become dollars. Tne refuse matter of the 
grounds, such as decayed stalks, leaves, weeds, tfec, should be 
turned to good account. About the bast purpose to which a 
weed can be put, is to place it in the compost heap or pig 
pen. Forest leaves, after being thoroughly worked over by 
swine, are excellent food for vegetables. Let nothing be 
wasted upon your premises ; for your manure heap may be 
likened to a cash capital, which, when invested, returns to you 
with interest. 

If you have a large supply of manure, it will be best to 
mix it with the soil whenever it may be spaded or trenched. 
A portion should be incorporated with the substratum, every 



48 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

time it is dug over, so as to liasten its gradual improvement. 
Another portion, however, should be kept near the surface, 
that the young roots may not have far to travel in search of 
nutriment. Should your supply be small, or not large enough 
to admit of this broadcast application, you must put it in the 
bills, or drills, for the larger vegetables. But, in every case, it 
ouglit to be thorougldij incorporated with the soil. The au- 
tumn, or winter, is the best time for doing this, as there will 
be less danger of the plants being injured by its heat, than if 
it were applied late in the spring. We fear that the parched 
appearance of the ground in some gardens, at midsummer, is 
from ignorance of this fact. In the remaining part of tliis ar- 
ticle, we shall enumerate the several kinds of manure most 
valuable for horticultural purposes. 

Horse DUNG is placed at the head of the list, because most 
generally used. There can be no doubt of its superior fer- 
tihzing effects. In an experiment with beans, m which six 
acres were manured with horse-dung, and nine with cow- 
dung, the SIX acres yielded more abundantly than the nine. 
Its value is dependent upon the food given to the animals, 
and tlie proportion of dung to straw, which absorbs the fluids, 
but reduces the value of any given weight of the manure. It 
ferments quickly, and to prevent the loss of tlie volatile mat- 
ters, should be composted soon after being taken from the 
stalls. 

Cow-DONG is chiefly dependent for its value upon the con- 
dition of the animals, as well as the care which may be taken 
in its preservation. That from half-starved beasts, and which 
is suffered to remain for months exposed to sun and rain, is by 
no mean^. the best for the gardener's use. It is colder than 
the dung of the horse, and, fermenting more slowly, retains ita 
virtue longer. Its effects are, therefore, of greater duration. 

PiG-DuxG is very good when used alone, although its strong 
odor sometimes imparts a rank taste to the vegetables. It 
also forms an excellent compost with the excrements of horsea 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 49 

and homed cattle. They should be tlirowii into a heap, in al- 
ternate layers, and receive the urine and slops from the house. 
A hog kept on the premises can be made to earn his living, 
by converting grass-sods, leaves and refuse vegetables into 
manure. 

PouDRETTB is Very exciting, and is peculiarly adapted for 
the advancement of early crops. Much of that purchased by 
farmers and gardeners is of an inferior quality. Care should 
always be exercised in securing the best, as it costs no more 
than the other. 

BiRDs'-DUNG has long been known as an active and power- 
ful fertilizer. It is excellent for melons and plants of the same 
family. That produced by the poultry on the premises can be 
gathered with very little trouble. The real guano is exceed- 
ingly powerful, and must be applied with cantion. We strongly 
suspect a great part of that in market to be nothing more 
than common dirt, perfumed with brine or something of the 
sort; — at least, its effects upon vegetation are about the same. 

GttEEN' VEGETABLE MATTEa may be considered of great 
value. Much that is carelessly wasted on farms, or even in 
gardens, would be beneficial to the succeeding crop. Every 
large weed, useless vegetable, and decayed stalk, should be 
carried to the compost heap, or pig pen, or else dug immediately 
into the ground. In the latter case, it ought not to be buried 
30 deep as to prevent fermentation by the want of air. 

C«AacoAL. It is within a few years, that a knowledge of 
the value of charcoal for manure has become general. And it 
seems to bj specially adipted to garden use. Being porous, 
it has the power of absorbing various gases from the atmos- 
phere, and, when subsequently placed in the soil, it readily 
yields them to the plants. It is excellent for mixing witli 
night soil, as it retains the offeur^ive — -but valuable — ammonia, 
which would otherwise escape in the air. Besides this ab- 
sorbent action, charcoal will loosen tough soils, and by its 
black color increase their warmth. It is applied in the shape 
5 



50 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

« 
of small lumps, or dust, and at tlie rate of one bushel to four 
square rods. 

Ashes are among tlie most economical manures. Contain- 
ing every element of vegetable growth, their return to the soil 
IS very advantageous. They attract moisture from the at- 
mosphere, and are somewhat useful as a protection against 
the ravages of insects. From the free use of wood as fuel, 
every gardener will probably have a supply of ashes in his 
own dwelling ; if not, he can purchase them at a moderate 
price from his neighbors. 

Salt, applied in small quantities, is strongly recommended 
by modern writers,— especially for such plants as sea kale 
and asparagus. In addition to its influence as a manure, it is 
also useful in destroying slugs, worms and larvre, which are 
liidden in the ground. Its effects are so powerful, that it must 
be applied with caution ;-~perhaps, for general purposes, at 
the rate of half a pound to the square yard ; it is, however, 
frequently used in much larger proportions Wlien tlie weather 
is dry, the salt should be forked into the soil immediately after 
being spread. 

Sea-weed can be easily obtained by gardeners who live in 
the vicinity of the sea coast. It is found very suitable for 
marine plants such as the artichoke, asparagus and sea-kale. 
Its effects are transient. It is applied either fresh as a top- 
dressing, or after being composted with dung and earth. 

ROTATION OF CROPS. 

Although instances are frequently cited, of certain plants 
being raised on particular spots of ground for year after year, 
without any apparent diminution in the produce ; yet, it is gener- 
allv allowed, that a rotation of crops is always of advantage, 
and often of the greatest importance. We consider it as neces- 
sary as depth and mellowness of soil, and the regular apphca- 
tion of manures. Gardeners are sometimes heard to complain 



GENERAL MAXAGEMEXT. 51 

of vegetables becoming " tired " of the ground wliere they 
have been long cultivated. They are attacked by numerous 
diseasea and insects, while a deficiency is to be discovered in 
the amount of the produce. As soon as tliis is known, some 
wiseacres will send many miles, in order to procure new varie- 
ties of seed, because the old ones have " degenerated." 

A more certain method of relief, would be to adopt a good 
rotation of crops, which is based on the well known fact, that 
ihe sevei'al families of plants not only strike their roots to 
different depths and in different directions, but draw different 
kinds of nourishment from the soil. Wlien one particular ele- 
ment of a vegetable is removed from the soil, the vegetable 
cannot be again raised there, until that element be restored- 
It is, therefore, advisable to alternate the crops, by which 
means the land will have opportunity to regain its original 
strength and fertility. This is illustrated by Dame Nature 
herself. If old pastures were to be attentively observed, it 
would be found that the grasses gradually change from season 
to season ; and in wood-land, it would be discovered, that an 
entirely different kind of tree takes the place of such as have 
decayed, or have been cut down. Thus the pine imd others of 
the coniferoe will succeed the oak, the chestnut, and other 
deciduous trees. 

A rotation is designed to prevent a too frequent recurrence 
of the same species upon a particular spot. Some authors lay 
down regular plans for the guidance of their readers ; but as 
the space annually appropriated to different plants depends 
upon circumstances, it will be readily seen that all such courses 
or plans are difficult of application. Instead, therefore, of fol- 
lowu)g this practice, we shall content ourselves witli some 
general rule?, which possess the merits of simplicity and brief- 
ness, so that the reader can adapt them to his own wants. 

In the first place, vegetables of the same species shall not 
follow each otlier, but return at as distant intervals as tlie case 
will allow. Tuberous or tap roots should be succeeded by 



52 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

those of a fibrous character ; perennials by annuals ; and 
plants of a dry, solid texture, or those left for seed, by such as 
are succulent and juicy. Ground which has necessarily been 
devoted for a number of years to the artichoke, asparagus, 
rhubarb, strawberry, and the like, should, as soon as they are 
removed to other parts of the enclosure, be subjected to a 
strict rotation, and allowed to recover those elements of fer- 
tility of which it has been exhausted. Wiiere the garden is 
divided into quarters, the vegetables can easily be made to 
take a circuit in every four or eight years. 

A little reflection will satisfy the intelligent reader, tliat 
by observing an alternation of crops, digging his soil to a proper 
depth, and manuring it abundantly, he need have no fear of its 
losing its fertility, or .of his choice vegetables degenerating, 

mDICATIONS OF RAIN. 

Changes in the weather affect the gardener much more 
than the farmer. As will be seen from the following pages, 
the operations of sowing small seeds and transplanting, are 
most successful if performed just before gentle sliowers. 
Persons who are exposed to tliese natural phenomena, such as 
agriculturists and sailors, in time acquire much practical knowl- 
edge of the subject. Many rules have been published by 
which one can discern an approaching change in tlie weather, 
that we would like to insert in this place, did our limits admit 
of it. For the sake of awakening the reader's attention, we 
append the following " Signs of Rain," said to have been sent 
by Dr. Jenner to a friend, with whom he had planned an ex- 
cursion : 

" The hollow winds begin to blow, 
The clouds loolc black, the glass is low ; 
The soot falls down, the sp.uiiels sleep. 
And spiders from their cobwebs peep. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 53 

Last night the sun went pale to bed, 
The uiuon in halos hid lier head ; 
Tlie boding b^hepherd heaves a sigh, 
For, see, a rainbow spans the sky ; 
The walls are damp, the ditches smell. 
Closed is the pink-eyed pimpernel. 
Hark ! how the chairs and tables crack, 
Old Betty's joints are on the rack ; 
Loud quack the ducks, die peacocks cry ; 
Tlie distant hills are looking nigh. 
How restless are the snorting swine, 
The busy flies disturb the kine ; 
Low o'er tlie grass the swallow wings ; 
Tlie cricket, U>o, how sharp he sings ; 
Puss, on tlie hearth, with velvet paws, 
Sits, wiping o'er her vdiisker'd jaws. 
Through the clear stream the fishes rise, 
And nimbly catch th' incautious flies ; 
The glow-worm-^, numerous and bright, 
Illum'd the dewy dell last night. 
At dusk the squalid toad was seen, 
Hopping and trawling o'er the green ; 
The whirling wind the dust obeys. 
And in the rapid eddy plays ; 
The frog has chang'd his yellow vest. 
And m a russet coat is drest. 
Though June, the air is cold and still ; 
The black-bird's mellow voice is shrill. 
My dog, so alter'd is his taste, 
Quits mutton bonus, on grass to feast ; 
And see, yon rooks, how odd their fligLl» 
They imitate the gliding kite. 
And seem precipitate to fall — - 
As if they felt the piercing ball. 
'Twill surely rain, I see with sorrow. 
Our jaunt must be put off to-morrow." 



5{ GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

SELECTION OF SEEDS. 

Every one ought to know that there is a great differenA*- 
in the productiveness and flavor of our common garden prod 
ucts. In fact, some of the varieties are scarcely worthy o 
notice. Therefore, when you go to the expense of haying oui 
a garden, you should endeavor to procure none other than th» 
choicest kinds of vegetables, and such as will afford a suc- 
cession of crops. It is a gi"eat object with market men t« 
raise the earliest and latest varieties, which always commano 
the best prices. And it is no less important for families, wh« 
can, by proper management, derive the greater part of thei 
living from the garden. The labor and cost of cultivation ar^ 
no greater, while the profit and satisfaction are much in- 
a'eased. 

In the beginning of your labors, you must of necessity pro- 
cure the seeds from some enterprising neigiibor, or a regular 
seedsman. In.. the latter case, go to a well known and respon- 
sible person, — if possible, one of your acquaintances. It is 
generally understood, that of the seeds annually exposed for 
sale, a very large part are worthless, having lost their vitality, 
or being of inferior varieties. The vexation of preparing land 
and realizing nothing, is equalled by waiting patiently for 
several months to obtain nothing but a small, tough, stringy 
product. It is not a fine sounding name which makes a valu 
able variety. 

But, with all your care, you may get deceived. Perhaps 
the seed will not vegetate, or it proves different from what it 
was represented. Even then you must not hastily impute 
blame to the seedsman. It cannot be expected that he should 
raise all that he sells, and he may have been deceived as well 
as yourself In the absence of proof, or very strong grounds of 
suspicion, it would certainly be wrong to believe him guilty of 
fraud. You must not jump at a conclusion. Because the seed 
did not vegetate, is no evidence that it would not have done so 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 55 

if placed in favorable circuaistances. That plants do not 
appear above ground, may have been caused by your own 
ignorance ; perhaps the seed was buried so low that its tender 
stem could not reach the surfiice, or else covered so slightly 
that the germ, as soon as it manifested itself, was killed by the 
heat. Defect of germination may have been the result of 
natural causes, such as excessive heat or cold, or the extreme 
dryness or dampness of the ground. For these reasons, you 
should be positively certain, before you dare level a blow at a 
man's reputation. 

To discover whether seeds possess the power of vegetation, 
is quite as important for your own benefit, as to test the seeds- 
man's honesty. Sowing dead seed will occasion the loss of 
much time and patience. You should, therefore, take a little 
of that which you consider doubtful, and steep it in warm 
water for several hours, when, if it show unmistakable signs 
of sprouting, you may sow as soon as you please. The only 
"way to discover whether you have been cheated in the quality 
of the plant, is to wait patiently until the crop comes to 
maturity. 

SO'WIXG. 

" Then plant the germinating seed, 
And reap an honest, grateful meed.,'' 

Tills is, undoubtedly, the most important operation of the 
whole year. In the want of personal experience, the young 
beginner is obliged to rely upon the instructions of others. 

The first inquiry will naturally be as to the most suitable 
time for sowing. By an examination of the DiCTroNAuv in the 
succeeding part of the volume, it will appear that there are 
varieties ripening at different seasons, and which require to be 
sown at different periods. Those intended for autumn and 
winter use are, as a general thing, to be sown two or three 
months later than those which are wanted during the summer. 



56 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Some cultivators prefer sowing in autumn, and protecting the 
plants through the winter, by which course the crop may be 
expected many days earlier, than where the opening of spring 
is waited for. Whether this gain will counterbalance the 
extra trouble and risk, the student must determine for him- 
self. Otliers i-ecoinmend sowing in a hot-bed about the latter 
part of winter, and transplanting to the open ground as soou 
as the weather becomes mild. The earliest sowing in the open 
air should be in a warm border, to be protected during cold 
nights by means of mats or straw. Should the plants be cut 
off by frost, there will still be plenty of time to secure a crop. 
There is an old English saying, that " the early sower never 
borrows of the late." 

Sowing should always be performed in dry weather, pai*- 
ticularly when the soil is of a tenacious cliaracter. In working 
ground just after a heavy fall of rain, it adheres to the spade, 
or other implement, and becomes a kind of mortal', which is 
baked by the sun into a hard crust with difficulty penetrated 
by the tender stem. We, therefore, prefer to sow when tlie 
earth is light and free, and when there is a prospect of a 
shower or gentle rain. This wakens the gei-m into life, and 
brings it up to the surftice a vigorous plant. The soil should 
be finely pulverized, so as to come in contact with the very 
smallest seed. And it should, moreover, be freshly stirred, 
because it will then be full of atmospheric air, moist and per- 
meable to heat, which are the three essential requisites for 
germination. 

In gardens, it is customary to form beds of convenient 
■width for subsequent cultivation. We think that an average 
width of fuur feet is suitable. Although, by this ai-rangement, 
there will be a great deal of ground in the shape of alleys and 
paths lying idle, the ease of taking care of the plants will there- 
by be much increased. It is well to have the beds as nearly 
as possible of a uniform size, because regularity of lines adds 
to the general appearance of the whole. The tops of the beds 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 57 

should b3 levelled smoothly, and tlie sides made sloping, so 
that they will not crumble djwn at the first rain. Tlie rake is 
a very effective implement for such woric ; it brings all the 
email stones into the allejj^, and breaks up the lumps of earth 
which the spaile has left. Let all this be done neatly, because 
the owner will then take greater satisfacaon in the after- 
culture. 

Broadcast sowing is deservedly falling into disrepute, for 
with a gardener its only recommendation is that of expedition at 
the most hurried season. In reality, however, it causes an ac- 
tual loss of time. The plants must be thinned out and trans- 
planted at a period when every moment should be spent in 
resisting the encroachments of weeds and insects. Tliere is 
considerable risk in this removal from the seed bed ; — the 
fibrous roots are broken and injured, so that mmsual care is 
necessary in their protection, until they become fairly estab- 
lished. Tlie drill system is certainly much more tidy and con- 
venient. The hoe can be used freely, while the beneficial 
influences of light and air are effectually admitted to the leaves 
and soil. The good effects will be discovered, not only in the 
increased product and its improved quality, but also in the 
better preparation of the land for the succeeding crop. 

A seed requires heat, air and moisture to ensure germina- 
tion. In the absence of either of these three conditions, it 
may remain dormant for centuries. When wakening into 
life, moisture is absorbed, the seed swells, the starch is con- 
verted into sugar, the germ bursts its integuments, and the 
stem pushes its way towards the surface, while the root buries 
itself downward in search of nutriment. Xow, it is surely an 
object to hasten this process, for thereby the crop will be ac- 
celerated, and the young plant sooner placed beyond all dan- 
ger from the attacks of its enemies. The mere putting the 
seed into the ground is not always sufficient. With certain 
kinds, it is well known that days, or even weeks, will elapse 



58 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



before the plant is developed ; by which time the weeds may 
have taken undisturbed possession of the bed. 

A great deal has been said lately about steeping the seeds 
before planting, so as to hasten vegetation. Various steeps 
have been proposed, among which are solutions of saltpetre, 
nitrate of soda, muriate of ammonia, sulpliate of ammonia, 
guano, and chloride of lima. Warm water answers a very 
good purpose. The lengtli of time for each kind of feeed to 
remain in the steep varies, and must be determined, together 
■with many other things of equal importance, by experiment. 
If suffered to I'emain too long, putrefaction will commence, 
■which either weakens or destroys the vitality of the germ. 
"We do not think it prudent, as a general thing, to delay sow- 
ing after the seed swells and gives unmistakable signs of 
sprouting. Should the ground be very dry, and continue so, 
the moisture in the seed will probably be abstracted, and the 
germ will perish ; in such case, it is advisable to apply water 
every day until all danger is over. Perhaps the ground may 
be wet and cold, and then the gardener need not be surprised 
if, after waiting patiently a week for the plants to discover 
themselves, he should lind that the seeds have rotted. There- 
fore, this plan of steeping seeds must be used with caution ; 
or delay and vexation may result instead of benefit. 

The manner of sowing next demands attention. If broad- 
cast, the seed may be covered by a rake, or a brancli of a tree, 
or a roller — which, indeed, is preferable in dry weatlier, as it 
makes the surface compact, without leaving any hiding places 
for insects. If in drills, the drill-rakes should be used for 
marking out the ground. For example, say the seed is to be 
sown in drills eight inches apart ; — take the rake, having its 
teeth set at that distance, and draw it across one end of the 
bed, by which means several drills (according to the number 
of teeth) will be mad« at the same time. Then place one 
tooth in the last drill, aad again draw the rake over the bed ; 
and so on, until the whole be marked out. The depth of tlio 



GEN'KRAL MANAGEMENT. 59 

drills "Will be regulatcid by the force with Tvliicli you bear upon 
the rake. Tlieri sow the seed, either thinly or thickly, as di- 
rected for the different vegetables in the Dictio.varv, Let the 
work be done well, as "Seeds are great tell-tales; for when 
they come up, we discover all the carelessness that may have 
prevailed at the sowing of them," 

The surface of the bed should be pressed into close contact 
with the seed ; it can be done by beating it gently with the 
back of the spade, by the use of the roller, by treading down 
the drills, or by walking upon a board. In using the board, 
place it lengthwise of the bed, and walk on it from end to 
end ; then move it, and so proceed until the whole surface be 
made smooth and compact. 

If the weather continue dry, the ground may be gently 
watered soon after sowing, and regularly afterwards until the 
young plants become estabUshed. This has been proved of 
decided benefit. But, when this artificial watering has in- 
duced the germ to start prematurely, and is then withheld, 
the consequences are fatal ; the plant dies for want of moist- 
ure in the surrounding soil. In this, as in several other mat- 
ters, we cannot too often repeat, that the reader must 
depend more upon his own judgment, than upon any written 
directions. 

CULTIVATION" WITH THE HOE. 

As soon as the young plants appear above ground, they 
require attention. They will probably come up very thick in 
tlie drills, and need being thinned out Avhenever the seed- 
leaves are well developed. This should by no means be neg- 
lected. With a narrow hoe, loosen the soil to a moderate 
depth, cut down all weed^, however small, and thin the plants 
80 that they will stand about an inch distant from each other 
in the drills. It is not advisable, in this early stage of their 
growth, to pull up more ; as you may lose many by the de- 
predations of vermin. It is even better to go over the ground 



60 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

half a dozen times, than to make a second sowing to fill up 
Vacant spaces. In a few days' time, the stems will acquire 
considerable size, so that you must give them another— 
and, if much hurried, the final— thinning. As to the distancea 
to be observed for the different vegetables, we refer you to the 
Dictionary. 

The hoe has frequently been called the gardener's best 
friend. We do not know that it can be too often used. An 
old distich runs,— 

" The more we hocj 
The more we grow." 

Hoeing is of benefit even when there are no weeds to de- 
stroy; and in fact it should be the object to keep, rather than 
to get, them out of the beds. Hoeing makes the ground sweet, 
and open to tlie atmosphere ; whereby the crops are much 
sooner brought to maturity, and in greater perfection. Strange 
fts it may seem, keeping the surface light and porous, will 
prevent the ;,.Hrching effects of drought. Thus, in a dry sea- 
son, a well-tilled garden suffers less than a field of grain on 
the opposite side of the fence. 

During the day time, the loose soil imbibes heat freely, and 
transmits it to tlie most distant rootlets, securing to them that 
wai'mth which is so essential to a vigorous growth ; but, at 
the approach of evening, when the temperature of the air 
falls, a reversed action takes place, and tlie heat is radiated 
or thrown olT quite as rapidly as it v/as received. If, on a 
hot day, you fill a pitcher with cold water, in a few momenta 
you will find tlie outside covered with drops of moistm-e, and 
it is a Common expression that " the pitcher sweats." Instead, 
liowever, of the drops having been drawn through the pores 
of the vessel like perspiration througli the skin, they are drops 
of vapor condensed from the surrounding air upon the cold 
pitcher. So with the soil at evening ; as soon as by the radia- 
tion of heat it becomes colder than the atmosphere, that moist- 
ure wliich we call dew is condensed, and transmitted to the 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 61 

root?. The extent of this beautiful operation is just in pro- 
portion to tli8 looseness of the surfiice. Thus Cubbett says, 
" A man will raise more moisture, with a hoe or spade, in a 
(lav, tlum he can pour on the earth out of a watering pot in a 
month." 

We sliall say nothing upon the chemical action of the air 
upon an open soil, which might involve us in some tedious 
disqui>ition, but, instead thereof, relate an experiment made by 
Ourwen, an eminent agriculturist. He planted cabbages 
upon a piece of ground so stiff and forbidding, that the neigh- 
bors considered his labor lost. Not discouraged by their 
sneers, he took a horse and cultivator, and subjected the laud 
to almost constant stirring throughout the season. The end of 
the matter was, that he gathered an immense crop, — some of 
the heads weighing over fifty pounds each. The beneficial 
results of such treatment are so well attested, that one of the 
most noted liorticulturists in our country, writes in the fol- 
lowing strain : — " If I had ' a call ' to preach a sermon on gar- 
dening I should take tilis for my text, ' Stir the soil:" 

Tli<^ reader needs not to be informed of the worthlessness 
of weeds. Every one takes up as much room and robs the 
soil of as much nutriment, as a useful plant. It should be the 
intention to keep them out of the garden hmits. Cut, this 
is scarcely possible. With all your care, they will obtain 
an entrance, and you then have no other course to pursue, 
than to commence the work of extirpation. Tlie moment a 
head pjeps above the surface, cut it off with the hoe, or, 
where foun 1 in a drill, do not hesitate to u^e the thumb and 
forefinger. 

Do not neglect so important a duty; for, as "ill weede 
grow apace," a few hours' lab;)r at this period will effect more 
than whole days of hard drudgery, after they have acquired a 
mastery. You cannot commence too soon ; and it is even 
better to give up sowing late varieties, than to ne^-lect those 
which are already suffering from the want of youi* care. Keep 
6 



g2 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

yom* hoe polished brightly, and your vegetables free from 
such unworthy associates. But, by no means allow one of the 
foul intruders to go to seed upon your premises. Tear it up, 
root and branch, and carry it to the compost heap, as that is 
about the only beneticial purpose to which it may be applied. 
If the seed vessels have already perfected themselves, do not 
put it on the heap, nor throw it in the pig pen ; but buni it 
up, or dispose of it in such other way, as will prevent the 
seeds being returned to the land. Recollect that " One year's 
seeding makes seven years' weeding." , 

"All hate the rank society of weeds, 
Noisome, and ever greedy to exhaust 
Th' impoverished earth ; an overbearing race, 
That, like the multitude made faction-mad, 
Disturb good order, and degrade true worth." 

Thus keep your ground in a good state of tilth, and you 
may be assured of ample returns for your industry. Do not 
grumble if you, or your laborers, wear out half a dozen hoes 
in each season, if you can be satisfiec^hat it was caused by 
good honest labor. The cost of a hoe is but little compared 
with the increased produce of a dozen bushels of vegetables. 

DESTRUCTION OF VERMIN. 

"A feeble race I yet oft 
The sacred sons of vengeance ; on whose course 
Corrosive Famine waits, and kills the year." 

Nothing is more vexatious and discouraguig for the gar- 
dener, than to see the objects of his care actually swept away 
by vermin of all kinds and sizes, of whose habits he is wholly 
ignorant,— unless their partiality for tender vegetables be ex- 
cepted. He may have lab;)red diligently for weeks, perhaps 
months ; yet in a single night, his choicest plants will be de- 
stroyed. Of the whole vegetable kingdom, there is scarce a 
useful member which is not liable to these attacks at dilferent 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 63 

statues of its growth. Some vermin prey upon the root, others 
choose the stem and brcinclies, a third class prefer the leaves, 
a foartli select the fljwers, while a fifth reject everything but 
the fruit or seed. For example ; if the seed of the common 
turnip i^ so fortunate as to escape a minute weevil, another 
enemy awaits the unfiVlding of the first leaves ; another buries 
itself in the bulb and rootlets, so that they become diseased, 
and c )verod widi unseemly e.^crescences ; and the mature 
foliage fiilU-. the prey of caterpillars. It is, therefore, the duty 
of the gardener to study the character and habits of these 
depredators, so as to guard against their attacks. The reader 
who may desire a thorough acquaintance with the subject, 
must refer to works of greater pretensions tlian this volume. 
We have room for only a few practical liints. 

An ounce of prevention is said to be worth a pound of cure 
and the student will naturally first inquire for the best modes, 
of protecting his plants. This will in a measure be secured by 
liigh cultui'e, — having the ground rich, sowing healthy seed, 
and hastening the maturity of the crop. As tlie young stems 
and leaves are sweetest, so are they most liable to injur v ; and 
everything that accelerates their growth, adds to then* security. 
It is the policy of some cultivators to turn over the soil late in 
autumn, in order that the grubs and insects which have taken 
up their winter quarters may be exposed to the action of frost. 
We are acquainted with many gardens which have thus been 
almost entirely rid of these pests. The application of salt at 
the rate of two or three bushels per acre, in spring, or the oc- 
casional use of strong brine, is highly recommended ; but, 
salt is a very powerful agent, and in every form must be ap- 
plied with caution, lest vegetation should also be injured. 
Rolling or pressing the surface of tke ground compactly, after 
sowing, is an excellent plan, as the flies are thereby deprived 
of hiding places around the little lumps of dirt. 

Reproduction should be prevented as much as possible. When 
crushing a grub under foot, or stifling a beetle, the gardenec- 



54 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

lessens the number of his enemies by milhons in emhrtjo. Tlie 
aphides, or plant hce, multiply with astonishing rapidity, and 
a single butterfly has been estimated to produce thirty millions 
of descendants at the third generation! The butterfly, which 
is the parent of destructive caterpillars, will doposite its eggs 
upon pieces of woolen cloth laid upon currant bushes or around 
cabbage plants. It is even good policy to employ little boys 
and girls in this work, giving them a bounty on every worm, 
chrysalis, moth or nest of egg^^, which they may discover. 
Children have very sharp eyes when their industry is stimu- 
lated by hopes of a pecuniary reward. Lai'ge gardens liave 
thus been kept free from vermin at the annual cost of a few 
shillings. Bonfires of shavings or brush, just after twilight in 
the evening, will attract and destroy immense numbers of 
flying beetles. 

The next inquiry will be, what is to be done after the ver- 
min, in spite of all the above precautions, have actuall}^ made 
their appearance. The war against them must be vigorously 
prosecuted. The most certain, and tlierefore the best, mode 
of attack, is by hand-picking ; but, the difficulty of capturinjj 
the minute and most agile insects by the fingers, will prevent 
its general adoption. However repulsive maybe its personal 
appearance, the common toad is a very valuable assistant in 
this work. The writer who termed it " the most deformed 
and hideous of all animals," could scarcely have known its use 
in the vegetable garden. Its eye is active, and its long, viscid 
tongue moves so rapidly, that it will destroy twenty or more 
wood-lice in two or three minutes. It lives almost entirely 
upon small worms and insects, and in a very unostentatious 
and quiet manner relieves the cultivator of many of his most 
troublesome enemies. • 

Bat, still other plans are required. These are numerous; — 
such as dusting the plants, when covered with moisture, with 
soot, ashes, snufF, charcoal, sulphur, road-dust, powdered hen- 
dung, air slacked lime, etc. ; or watering them and the ground 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 65 

with soap-suds, solutions of saltpetre, guano, hen-dung and 
whale oil soap,* decoctions of tobacco and elder, etc ; or fu- 
migating them with sulphur and tobacco. Soap-suds from 
the wash-room is excellent for tliis purpose, and it likewise 
proves an excellent fertilizer. AVhale oil soap is very cheap 
and efficient ; care must be taken, ho-s^^ever, not to make the 
solution too strong, lest it injure the plants. Of soap of an 
average quality, one pound may be put to seven gallons of 
water ; but, as its strength varies much, the gardener should 
determine the proportions by experiment. 

We have long used a solution of hen-dung with success, 
and we recommend it because it is always easily obtained- 
"We have a tub standing in a convenient part of the garden, 
and, at the time when the insects are expected, put in the bot- 
tom about one bushel of hen-dung, upon which we pour several 
pailfuls of boiUng water. When the mixture has become 
semi-fluid, by frequent stirring, we fill the tub up with water. 
After remaining twelve hours longer, the liquid should be of 
a dark green color, and somewhat offensive to the nostnls, as 
upon that particular depends its efficacy. It may then be 
cautiously applied upon melon and cabbage hills, and, in fact, 
every place hable to the attacks of insects. 

We also make use of the vine-shield, (Fig. 4,) wliich not 
only protects the plant, but greatly accelerates its growth. 
Could the scratching propensities of poultry be i-estrained, their 
assistance would be of no little value. Broods of vouno- 
chickens will do much good, — the hens being confined, and 
the chicks suffered to roam over tlie beds ; as soon, however, 
as their claws become troublesome, a new brood should take 
their place. Whatever mode may be adopted, much depends 

* To make Whale Oil Soap— Take eighteen pounds of potash and 
thirty pounds of foot oil, and mix them together in a barrel. Every 
other day add twelve quarts of boiling water, and stir the whole for a few 
minutes every day, until the barrel be full, when the mixture will be fit 
for use. 



gg GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

upon tlie time when operations are commenced. The moment 
the enemy appears, tlie signal for a general onslaught should 
be given. By such prompt action only, may the cultivator 
have cause to expect a crop. 

After these general directions, we think it "well to give 
short notices of tlie most important vermin : — 

Caterpillars are the young, or larvae, of butterflies. Their 
appearance and habits vary so much, that it is impossible 
to give any particular description. They are very destructive, 
and should be diligently looked after. The various remedies 
proposed — such as lime-water, tobacco-water, brine, ashes, (fee, 
are partial and uncertain ; nothing is so effectual as hand- 
picking. 

Cut-worm, or Black Grub. This is about the size of a 
goose-quill, and ash-colored with a dark stripe upon the back. 
During the day time, it lies snugly buried in the ground, about 
an inch below the surface ; but emerges at night to eat off the 
stems of young plants. Common remedies are of no avail ; 
lime and salt have no perceptible effect upon it. The only 
efficient plan is to examine tlie beds every morning, and by 
digging around those plants which have been destroyed, the 
worm may most generally be found. As a preventive, it is 
advised to wrap a burdock or walnut-tree leaf, or a small piece 
of writing paper, around each stem when transplanted. The 
vine-shield is also a good protection. 

The AxT is very mischievous, and sometimes occasions 
considerable damage. It would be scarcely worth while to 
destroy a single one wherever found. In the evening, the 
i nest may be discovered by observing the course of those re- 
turning from their day's labor. When the whole family are 
collected, hot water may be poured upon them, and (ew will 
escape. When the nests are numerous and tliis mode is 
thought too ti-oublesome, they can be dug up by a spade, at 
any time in winter when a hard frost is anticipated, so that 
the iuhabitauts shall be exposed to the severity of the weather. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 67 

TuRxiP Flt. — This appears to be a general name for sever- 
al kinds of agile and destructive insects which attack the tur- 
nip, the cabbage, <fec., when in the seed leaf, and either totally 
devour tliem, or kill the centre buds. Their devastations are 
kept up with so much spirit, that the sowing of seed must in 
some years be repeated four or five times. Burning brush 
upon the ground before sowing, is an excellent preventive. 
Some gardeners steep tlie seed in sulphur- water ; others put 
lime, slacked by urine and mixed with a treble quantity of 
soot, in the diill ; others dust the plants with air-slacked lime, 
gypsum, soot, ashes, &c; while m?.,ny are satisfied with fre- 
quent sprinklings of soap suds, or even pure watftr. A brood 
of chickens is very usefuL 

Aphides, or Plaxt Lice. Ahiiost every kind of vegetable 
seems to have a species of the lou.^e peculiar to itself. They 
multiply with astonishing rapidity, and are of various colors — 
as green, brown, black, blue, red and purple. They fasten 
upon the tender buds, and render them incapable of develop- 
ment. Sometimes the entire bean crop will be thus destroyed. 
Sprinkle the parts affected with tobacco-water, a solution of 
whale oil soap, and soap suds ; or dust with lime and snuflt As 
Uie ends of the branches are generally first attacked, they may 
be bent over into one of the above solutions ; and bean or pea 
vines will be benefited by nipping off those parts, as the crop 
id thereby much increased- 

The CucuMBKK. Bug is yellow, striped with black. It eats 
tlie tender foliage and flowers of the cucumber family. 

The Squash Bug has an orange-colored belly, with a tur- 
tle-shaped back. It collects under the leaves and upon the 
fruit of vines. In a morning when a heavy dew has fallen, 
the cucumber and squash bugs have not tlie free use of their 
wings, and may easily be caught by hand- We often take 
the ti'ouble of knocking them, by a sly stroke, into a little dish 
of suds carried in the left hand. 

EosE Bugs are beetles about half an inch long, with sler<- 



68 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

der bodies tapering to each end. They come from the ground 
in June, when the rose is in blossom. Coming like a cloud of 
locusts, they destroy foliage and fruit of almost eveiy descrip- 
tion ; but are remarkably fond of young graj>es. We have 
tried several plans for their destruction, such as sprinkling 
them with a very strong solution of whale oil soap, and fumi- 
gating the leaves with turpentine or sulphur. About the only 
result of our experiments, was the loss of a fine cherry tree 
for which we would not have taken a ten dollar bill. Tlie most 
effectual remedy is to go the rounds of the garden several 
times a day, and knock every trespasser into a cup of water 
or turpentine. When the cup is filled, it may be emptied on 
the ground, care being taken that none escape with a mere 
bath. By pursuing this course regularly and faithfully, day 
after day, the gardener will stand some chance of a crop ; 
and by following it up yearly, the bugs will at lengtli be 
almost exterminated. 

Mice are sometimes troublesome. Tliey may be caught iu 
traps, or killed by arsenic — which is a certain, but not alwayj 
a safe, way of getting rid of them. 

Slugs are very annoying and destructive. Thorough hand- 
picking should be daily practiced. They are frequently caught 
upon cabbage leaves, or slices of turnip, laid in their way, and 
then committed to the fire. 

The JNIoLE, and his burrowing habits, are too well known 
to need description. He is in reality an innocent trespasser ; 
for, Avhen undermining the gardener's smooth beds, lie is in 
search of insects, without the least intention of injuring the 
seeds and plants. But as this is often a consequence of his 
extensive galleries, when they become numerous, some method 
must be contrived to get rid of his friendly visits. Traps may 
be purchased at the stores, but a very simple and cheap plan 
is to put tarred sticks in the buiTOWs. which drive him away 
in disgust. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 09 

TRANSPLANTING. 

Transplanting is the process of removing a plant from one 
eituation to another. Thus, cabbage seed is generally sown 
broadcast, and the plants, when three or four inches high, are 
Bet out in the compartment where they are to come to ma- 
turity. As with the process of sowing, upon the time when, 
and the manner in which this labor may be perfomied, depend 
a successful result The intention is, that the roots shall suffer 
from their change of locality as little inconvenience as possible. 
They ought not to be exposed to the air for any length of 
time, particuhirly in hot weather, and the ground should, 
therefore, be properly prepared — by being spaded deep, and 
manured, — before the plants are taken from the seed bed 
And, moreover, this preparation should be very recent, because 
the delicate fibres most readily attach themselves to a freshly 
dug loam. 

Select for the operation, an evening, or a damp, cloudy day, 
or when a shower is expected ; but not soon after a heavy 
rain, because the soil, if stirred when wet, is apt to become 
stiff like mortar, and to be baked into a hard crust by the next 
rays of the sun. The most successful transplanting is per- 
formed with a troweL Push it down so as to reach below the 
root, and, by a dexterous movement of the hand, di'aw up the 
plant firmly set in a little ball of earth, which can be put 
wherever desired, and the plant will scarcely experience any 
check in its growtli. 

In transplanting with the dibble, you must go over the 
ground, and insert it at the proper distances, in such a manner 
as to leave deep, smooth holes. Draw up a sufficient number 
of stout, healthy plants, and carry with you, in a small vessel, 
a semi-fluid mass of cow-dung and water. Dip each root into 
the mixture, so that the dirt will adhere to the small fibrous 
extremities ; and place it in the hole so that it will run down 
perfectly straight, without being turned up at the bottom 



70 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

This latter caution is paiticularly necessary in the case of the 
beet, carrot, and other tap-rooted vegetables. When the plant 
is at the right depth, insert the dibble, or a pointed shingle, at 
a short distance from the stem, and push the earth up close to 
the root. Many people imagine that if the crown or the body 
be th'mly set, it is quite sufficient; they surely cannot have 
reflected, that it is only the spongioles at the ends of the fibres 
which are capable of collecting nourishment from the soil, and 
that the body is nothing more than the channel for conveying 
it to the bi'anches. 

Should the weather become warm, the leaves and stem 
will suffer greatly from the sun's rays, unless some kind of 
shelter be given. A celery trench can be covered with boards 
during the day time. The vine-sliield, with a piece of cloth; 
or paper, lying upon the glass, forms a good protection for 
cabbages which stand some distance apart. Indeed, we have 
often used pieces of old newspaper, laid over the plant, with a 
heavy stone at each corner to prevent their being blown away 
by the wind ; this is troublesome, and not practicable in large 
plantations, but is well adapted for a few choice varieties, 
when no other means for protection are at hand. Or, a little 
brushwood may be thrown upon the ground, and overlaid 
with thin mats or straw. "Whatever plan may be adopted, 
do not omit taking off the covering at the approach of even- 
ing, that tlie leaves may be favored with the usual deposite of 
dew. With many kinds of plants, it is advisable to apply 
tepid water, soon after being set out in a new bed, and every 
subsequent evening until the roots become firmly established. 
Keep the soil well stirred by tlie hoe, carefully eradicate 
every weed which springs up, and guard ag;iinst the ravages 
of vermin. Nothing but a little attention at the proper time 
is necessary to ensure success. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 71 

APPLICATION OF WATER, 

" The thirsty earth soaks up the rain, 
And drinks, and gapes for drink again. 
The plants s-uck in the earth, and are 
"With constant drinKing fresh and fair." 

In the article called " The Cistern," as well as in several 
distinct paragraphs, we have set forth the most important ad- 
vantages of applying water to garden crops. We, of course, 
do nut approve of its indiscriminate or excessive use ; but 
iiave no hesitation in saying that, wlien properly given, it 
hastens the growth of the plant, and secures it from injury at 
the most trying peri<ids of its existence, besides improving the 
size and flavor of the product. 

With strawberries and the like, tlie practice of mulching 
or of covering the ground with hay, straw or litter, so as to 
clieck evaporation, as well as prevent the parching effects of 
the sun's rays, is vastly more convenient. 

The following judicious remarks are from the pen of J. J. 
Thonia^ the well known correspo?ident of the "Albany Culti- 
vator," and who is one of the most eminent horticulturists in 
the country. " From repeated experiments, we are induced to 
draw tlie conclusion, that next to manure, the great prime 
mover in successful culture, there is nothing more important 
to vegetable growth, in many cases, than irrigation. Practical 
gardeners, in countries far uK^re moist than our own, regard it 
as indispensable, and a large share of their success depends on 
copious waterings. 

" Some interesting instances, which have recently occurred 
may be worth stating. Two rows of raspberries stand on 
ground io every respect alike, except that one receives the 
drippings from a wood-house, and the other does not. The 
watered row is fully four times as large in growth as the other. 
Again : the berries on the bushes of the Fastolf and Franconia 
raspbemes were at least twice as large when the sod was 
kept well moistened, as afterwards, when allowed to become 



72 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

dry ; a repetition of the watering again doubled their size. 
Again : a near i\eighbor, who cultivates strawberries for mar^ 
ket, and who uses u water cart for irrigating the rows, raised 
at the rate of one hundred and twenty bushels to the acre on 
common good soil by this means ; and he noticed that where 
the cart was left standing over night, so that the water gradu- 
ally dripped from it for some hours upon a portion of the 
plants, the fruit had grown to double the size of the rest, in 
twenty-four hours." 

Gold water ought never to be given, as it chills both tlse 
ground and the vegetables. It should have been exposed to 
the atmosphere for several hours, and may in the morning be 
put in a tub or trough, so that it can be sufificiently warmed by 
the sun to apply at evening. As to the most suitable time for 
its application, authorities are divided between morning and 
evening, and we dare not rec-apitulate the arguments on either 
Bide, but advise the reader to settle the question by his own 
experiments. For our own part, we can truly say, that we 
have as yet seen nothing to change our preference foi' the 
evening. A garden engine, or a watering pot, may be em- 
ployed, according to the dimensions of the garden and the 
fancy of the owner. 

Frequent sprinklings are of more benefit, than an occa- 
sional saturation of the ground. Excessive watering is posi- 
tively injurious, because it puddles the soil and drills the roots. 
Tlie quantity given must be regulated by the nature of the 
plant and the character of the season. And, when the practice 
of watering is once begun, it should not be discontinued so 
long as the necessity for it remains. The seed is sometimes 
induced to germinate, and in consequence of the artificial 
watering being suddenly suspended, the young stem is killed 
by the drought. The benefit is temporary, and has the effect 
of exciting the plant so tliat it is afterwards more liable to 
injury, in case the regular supply of moisture s-hould be with- 
held. Whenever the soil shows a disposition to bake, the hoc 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 73 

must be promptly used, so as to keep the surface always open 
and light. In adapting these rules to his own grounds, the 
gardener should recollect, that written instructions cannot suit 
all locahties, or all seasons of the year. He must depend 
mainly upon his own good sense. 

SAVING SEED. 

We have in another place shown the importance of sowing 
Boiind, healthy seed, and that, moreover, of the choicest varie- 
ties. In the beginning of the gardener's labors, he must apply 
to some neighbor or to a well known seedsman ; but, subse- 
quently, he should endeavor to supply liimself, with some few 
exceptions, from his own premises. 

It is a well attested fact, that if two different varieties of a 
vegetable are permitted to blossom, at the same time, within a 
short distance of each other, they intermix, and produce a 
hybrid partaking of the character of both parents. The fertil- 
izing dust of the stamens in the flowers of one plant is con- 
veyed by the wind or insects, to the pistils in the flowers of 
the other. The distinctive features of each are thereby lost 
while the new variety may possess not a single point to make 
it worthy of cultivation. It is seldom that such a chance 
hybrid proves of much real value. Tlie origination in this 
way of any choice esculent, is almost ever the result of study 
and long experiment. 

A knowledge of this fact is of peculiar importance to the 
gardener, who?e object is to raise several different varieties of 
the same vegetable upon a small piece of ground. It is by 
this only, that ho can satisfactorily account for the rapid deteri- 
oration of the choicest sorts. Where, for example, he culti- 
vates the melon, the cucumber and the pumpkin in close com- 
panionsliip, but a few seasons will elapse before he finds the 
juiciness, perfume and delicate flavor of the first named, ex- 
changed for the coarse flesh of the last. And the celebrated 
7 



74 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 

JBrassica tribe, among which are our cabbage, cauliflower, <fec., 
are supposed to number several hundreds, produced by inten- 
tional or chance intermixture. We, therefore, consider it as 
dangerous to allow plants of a particular family to run to seed 
in the vicinity of each other, as to turn a rough, scrubby, 
" JS'ative" bull among a herd of thorough-bred Durhams. 

You will now very naturally inquire, good reader, how 
you are to raise seed, and yet preserve the several varieties 
distinct. We first answer, that you ought to reduce the 
number of varieties to the very choicest — such as are desira- 
ble for being early or late, or of unusual size, or having a fine 
flavor, or distinguished for great productiveness, — instead of 
keeping a selection large enough for a seedsman. They are 
in reality very few, for the majority of the fine-sounding 
names in catalogues are given to plants of an inferior char- 
acter. 

Such as you select for seeding, should be located as far 
apart as the extent of your territory will admit, so as to lessen 
the chances of intermixture. And where the vitality of the 
seed will remain unimpaired for two or three years, you may 
allow only a part of the varieties to blossom in each year. 
Thus, by reference to the table at the end of this article, it 
will appear that cabbage seed preserves its germinating 
power for four years, and by permitting only one kind to per- 
fect itself in a season, you may have four distinct kinds in 
perfect purity. This rule is good as far as it goes, but you 
will perceive that it is not of general application. Where you 
are obliged to have two or more kinds in flower at the same 
time, as with members of the cucumber family, place them as 
far asunder as possible. We think it better to raise only one 
valuable sort of seed, and depend upon a responsible seeds 
man for the balance, than to run the risk of getting mongrels. 

Of such varieties as you select for seeding, choose the best 
plants only, — those which are healthy, and have their peculiar 
characteristics most perfectly developed. To insure earliness, 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 75 

only the most forward plants should be taken. Let the soil 
be rich and well cultivated ; allowing plenty of room to the 
roots. Attend carefully to the subsequent growth, for the 
leaves and shoots are very apt to be injured by insects, and 
are often choked by rank weeds. It will be tlie best policy to 
look at the plants at least once a week, and, when the weather 
gets very dry, it becomes advisable to apply water in moder- 
ate quantities. The seed stalks will be thrown up in the early 
part of sunmier ; being high and having many branches, they 
are liable to be broken down by heavy rains or strong winds. 
The labor of tying them up to stakes is trifling, and ought on 
no account to be neglected. 

When the seeds are ripe, gather them without unnecessary 
delay ; otherwise, tlie pods will split open, and their contents 
be scattered lipon the ground. Do not gather indiscriminately, 
but take only the finest looking heads. By this selection of 
the best plants and the best seed, good varieties may be even 
improved, and they certainly will not deteriorate. In this 
way many of our choice vegetables have been obtained. The 
practical stock-breeder's motto is, tliat " Like produces like," 
and he breeds from those animals only wliich possess the 
points he wishes perpetuated. Thus, if you select the earliest 
peas from the earliest vines, for a number of seasons, you can 
obtain a variety ripening several days earlier than that with 
which you commenced. It has been done once, and may be 
done again. 

Place the seed vessels, as soon as gathered, upon a cloth 
in the shade, so that they may become perfectly dry, at which 
tune tlu-esh out the seed, by means of a, small stick. Winnow 
out the chaff and small or defective seed, and put the remain, 
der iu drawers or small paper bags. Every kind should be 
labelled with its name and the year when raised, — in this 
laimnav, '^ Early Salmon Radhh : 1850," This will prevent 
all pos-ibility of the inexperienced cultivator mistaking beet 
for cabbage seed, or sowing that which by the lapse of time 



76 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

has lost its power of germination. Keep these drawers or 
bags in a cool, dry apartment, where no injury may be appre- 
hended from moisture or the attacks of mice. With care, 
seeds may be preserved for several years, according to the 
annexed table. 

The vitality of seeds, under favorable circumstances, can 
be depended upon for the following periods : — 

Parsnip, — Rhubarb, — and other thin scaly seeds, — for one 
year. 

Balm, — Basil, — Beans, — Cardoon, — Carrot, — Cress, — In- 
dian Cress, — Lavender, — Leek, — Okra, — Onion, — Peas, — Pep- 
per, — Rampion, — Sage, — Salsify, — Savory, — Scorzonera, — 
Thyme, — Tomato, — Wormwood,— and small herbs generally, 
— for two years. 

Artichoke, — Asparagus, — Corn Salad, — Egg-Plant, — En- 
dive, — Indian Corn, — Lettuce, — Marigold, — Marjoram, — Mus- 
tard, — Parsley, — Rosemary, — Rue, — Skirret, — Spinach, — 
and Tansy, — for three years. 

Borage, — Borecole, — Broccoli, — Brussels Sprouts, — Cab- 
bage. — Cauliflower, — Radish, — Sea-Kale, — Tarragon, — and 
Turnip, — iovfour years. 

Beet, — Burnet, — Celery, — Chervil, — Cucumber, — Dill, — 
Fennel, — Hyssop,— Melon, — Pumpkin, — Sorrel, — and Squash, 
— from^«?i? to eiglit or ten years. 

EARLY PLANTS FOR SPRING USE. 

Every reader can understand the value of early craps. 
They are less liable to injury from weeds and insects, and 
cause the " season " of each vegetable to be much extended. 
On his own table tliey are esteemed luxuries, while in the 
market they command extraordinary prices. They thus in- 
crease the profit, as well as the satisfaction, of gardening. For 
these reasons, it has become a matter of interest, and some- 
times a matter of laudable rivalry, to procure eariy plants ig 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 77 

ike spring, instead of then sowing the seed, wUereby the ma- 
turity of the crop is hastened several days. 

These early plants are obtained in various ways. To save 
expense, a few seeds may be sown at mid-winter, in a box 
to be set in a warm kitchen window ; this method, however, 
is troublesome to the occupants of the room, and cannot be 
practised to any considerable extent. It is most common to 
make a hot-bed, as described in the succeeding article, to- 
wards the latter part of winter, and to sow tlie seeds either 
upon inverted pieces of turf, or in smaU pots. 

A third plan is to raise the plants in the previous autumn, 
and protect them through the winter. This bids fair to super- 
sede the old fiisliioned mode of obtaining them from a hot-bed, 
because they are quite as early, and are certainly much more 
Lardy. The seed is sown during September or October, in a 
shaded border, where it will not suffer from drought or exces- 
sive heat. Before cold weather sets in, tlie stems will have 
acquired sufficient size and strength to bear removal to a cold 
frame, which is nothing more than a hot-bed frame placed on 
the ground. The earth should be banked up around the out- 
side of the box, so as to prevent the entrance of water, and 
sudden alterations of temperature. The plants may be set 
out by a small dibble, at such distances apart as will be indi- 
cated in the Dictioxary. When frost is expected, the frame 
is to be covered Avith shutters or boards, so placed tliat the 
rain will run off. Every pleasant day, the covering must be 
wholly or partially removed, for the free admission of air, 
which is positively essential to tiie health and vigor of the 
plants. 

To avoid the trouble of transplanting, the frame might be 
set upon the seed bed, and protected in the manner above de- 
pcribed ; or the bed could be enclosed by a rough box of 
boards, supported by stakes, and banked with earth on the 
outside. The north side of this frame or box should be several 
inches higher than the south side. The covering may be of 
7* 



7g GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

boards or shutters. Some gardeners adopt a still more simple 
cold frame, viz : heavy mats laid upon bent hoop poles, some- 
what like the covered top of a Peunsylvania wagon. In either 
plan, however, great care is necessary to give light and air, 
whenever the weather will permit ; or else the plants will ac- 
quire a weak, spindhng growtli, which ill fits tbem for removal 
to the open ground. 

"When spring has fairly opened, a part of these early 
plants in the hot-bed or cold ftame, Biay be set out in a warm^ 
sheltered border. Tliey will, at first, require the slieltcr of 
hand-glasses or vine-screens at night, as well as during cold 
days ; this protection should be gj-adually wi!;hdrawn, when the 
weather becomes so mild that no danger of late frost is to be 
apprehended In the eour:^e of a week or fortnight, another 
parcel may be set out and treated in the same manner, so as 
to insure a succession of crops. Should there be more plants 
than the gardener will want for his own use, he may readily 
dispose of them for cash, or give them away to lus less fortu- 
Bate neighbors. 

FORCING VEGETATION. 

Forcing is the art of accelerating the growth of plants, by 
the warmth afforded by certain fermenting substances, so as to 
obtain vegetables at unusual seasons of the year, llie prac- 
tice appears to be as old as the time cf the Romans. We coiv 
sider its chief value to be m raising young plants for removaJ 
to the open ground in spring. It is, undoubtedly, very curi- 
ous, ai^id speaks well for a j3orson's horticultural skill, to have 
an abundance of fresh vegetables when the earth is locked iri 
the chill embrace of winter ; but, after all, it is attained only 
after long practice, and is attended with considerable risk — to 
say nothing of the trouble and expense. In this book, we have 
aimed to lay aside our individual opinion in regard to this mat- 
ter, ai^d to give the reader full information of the process. Tho 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 
Fig. 21- 




go GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

following remarks are general; — particular directions will be 
found under the appropriate heads in the DictiOiXAry. 

In American gardens, forcing under glass is generally con- 
ducted in frames and pits. There are several substances em 
ployed in obtaining this artificial heat, such as tanner's bark, 
leaves and grass, but the fresh dung of well-fed animals is 
generally preferred. 

The first object is to get rid of the violent heat and rank 
vapor produced when fermentation is most powerful. For this 
purpose, a certain degree of moisture and air is necessary ; and 
therefore, it will be the gardener's business to place the dung 
in a couical-shaped heap near the place where wanted for use ; 
to turn it over about once a week, shaking it well together, so 
that all parts may be equally exposed to the atmosphere ; and 
to apply water when the materials appear at all dry. In cold, 
wet, or boisterous weather, the heap ought to be covered to a 
moderate depth, with coarse stable litter. 

There is considerable difference of opinion, with regard to 
the time that stable dung shall be permitted to lie thus in the 
heap. Ciue must be taken that the process is not carried too 
far, as in that case there will not be sufficient heat left for the 
bed, and the plants will be rendered small and sickly. Per- 
haps it is a good rule, to wait until the greater part of the straw 
assumes a dark brown color. 

The hot-bed should be in a place free from the shade of trees 
or buildings, and having an aspect rather a point eastward of 
the south. Shelter on the nortli-Avest is particularly necessa- 
ry, Tiie next labor will be to mark out the dimensions of the 
bed, which, on all sides, ought to be at least ten inches larger 
than the frame, and a stake should be driven down at each 
corner as a guide for keeping the edges perfectly straight. It 
is sometimes recommended to dig a trench from six to eigh- 
teen inches deep for the recep ion of the manure, as the 
dampness of the ground will prevent the too rapid escape 
of heat ; but, as excessive moisture chills the bed, and a3 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 



81 



by this mode it is difficult to apply linings wlien they become 
necessary, we think tlie foundation had best be on the surface. 
Generally, the foundation is level, but Mr. Knight, the dis- 
tinguished horticulturist, recommends a gentle inclined plane 
towards the south, as in the accompanying Figure. 

Fig. 22. 





Some persons "will require a board set up edgewise, as a 
guide in keeping the sides of the bed perpendicular, but the pro- 
fessed gardener trusts to the accuracy of his eye. The dung 
must be well shaken by the fork before being used, and a layer 
of the longest, or littery part, should be laid at the bottom of 
the bed. Every layer, as it is put on, should be beaten down 
by the fork, and the outer part especially, because that will 
have to sustain the weight of the frame. If the dung be not 
moderately moist, it ought to receive a gentle sprinkling of 
water. Ashes, tan and leaves, are often mixed witli the dung 
of hot-bed-j, and are supposed to promote the steadiness and 
duration of the heat ; indeed, it is generally found that if one- 
third part be of tan, the heat will be less violent and last 
longer. The sides ought to be carried up regularly, and 
combed with the fork, to prevent any unsightly appearance. 

When the heap is built up to a proper height, which 
varies with the season of the year, and the kind of vegetable 
to be forced — but ranging between two and four feet, the 
edges ought to be several inches higher than the centre, be- 
cause they will sink in a short time under the weight of the 



82 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

frame. If the foundation be inclined, as in Fig. 22, the top of 
the bed should be equally inclined. The frame and sashes 
can then be placed, and remain closed for tliree or fuui* days ; 
at the end of which time, they should be opened for the escape 
of steam and vapor. After these seem to have fairly passed 
off, the mould can be applied in such manner, and to such 
depth, as will be indicated in the DicrioxARY. Any good, rich 
soil, will answer ; but that taken from an t)ld wood lot, or well- 
rotted grass sods, which were piled up for the purpose a year 
previous, are considered best adapted to the wants of the 
plants. The sashes must then be closed, and kept tight for 
two or three days, until the mould shall have acquired a suit- 
able degree of warmth fur the reception of the seed. Should 
the heat be so violent as to bake the earth, a portion ought to be 
removed, and its place supplied by fresh mould. But even 
this precaution occasionally proves unavailing, and the tender 
germ is either injured or killed outright. To prevent which, 
the seed may be sown in pots plunged in the mould, and if the 
heat then prove too violent, each pot may be raised up by put* 
ting a stone at the bottom of the hole. The outside of the 
bed may be protected by a bank of earth, or coarse litter, 
during cold winds and storms, to prevent sudden changes oi 
temperature within the frame. 

The general rules of management are : — to keep the sashes 
covered with boards, mats or straw, during cold nights and 
severe storms; to admit air freely in pleasant weather, by 
sliding down the sashes for an inch or two, or by raising them 
up \vith wedges at the back part of the frame ; and occasion- 
ally to apply water in moderate quantities, after it has been 
kept in the frame for at least twelve hours. When the bed is 
first made, great care is necessary to prevent the plants being 
injured by extreme heat, and at that time the protection of 
mats, (tc, should be much ligliter than afterwards, when the 
danger is passed. 1\) a>certaiu tliis, the temperature of the 
bed ought every day to be examined. The most correct in- 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 83 

strument for the purpose is a thermometer, but, in the "want of 
that, a trying-stick will answer very well. It is a smooth 
lath of wood, about two feet long, which is to be thrust into 
different parts of the manure, and then drawn out and grasped 
quickly by the hand. Sometimes the heat is found so violent 
that, in addition to raising the sashes, several holes must be 
opened in the pile of dung, by means of a large stake or crow- 
bar, in such a manner that they can be filled up with hay or 
dung, when they are no longer necessary. 

The air within the frame should be fi'equently renewed, or 
the plants will become sphidling, with a sickly, yellowish color. 
They cannot be expected to grow hardy, unless the steam from 
the dung is permitted to escape, and fresh air to take its place. 
A hot-bed needs ventilation quite as much as a crowded 
church. The sashes ought to be opened in all pleasant weather, 
by the insertion of wedge-shaped props, so that the glass can 
be raised to any height desired, according to the heat of the 
bed or the temperature of the atmosphere. When there is a 
sharp, cutting wind, it will bo advisable to hang a mat over 
tlie opening, in such a way that, while the plants Avill not suffer 
from the blast, there may be ample opportunity for the ad-- 
uoissiou of fresh air. No effort must be spared to keep the 
plants stout and healthy, the stems strong, and the leaves of a 
fine green color. 

As soon as the heat is found to decline, " linings," as they 
are called, should be applied. The litter having been first re- 
moved, the edges of the bed are to be cut down by a spade 
close to the frame. It may, perhaps, be best to take only one 
side at a time, by which means the heat will be renclered 
more regular and permanent. Several holes are to be opened 
in the manure by the crowbar or a large stake, and a bank, or 
"lining," of fresh dung, is to take the place of that which has 
just been removed. The width of this " lining " will vary from 
ten to twenty inches, according to the coldness of the season ; 
and it should not be carried up much higher than the bed, lest 



g4 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

the violent heat escape directly into the mould, and thereby 
injure the roots of the plants. To prevent the heat being 
wasted in the air, it will be necessary to cover the lining with 
a few inches of eartlx. This process may be repeated once or 
twice, until the maturity of the crop, or the increasing warmth 
of spring, shall render it useless, 



A DICTIONARY 

OF 

THE VEGETABLES, FRUITS, AND MEDICINAL 

HERBS USUALLY CULTIVATED IN A 

KITCHEN GARDEN. 



ARTICHOKE.— Cpiara. 

The artichoke is a perennial from the south of Europe, 
which was cultivated in England as early as the year 1580. 
It is naturally a marine plant, and has been greatly improved 
by domestication. The botanical name, according to Colu- 
mella, IS dei-tved from tlie Latin word tinere, because the an* 
cients were accustomed to apply ashes to the land in which 
the plant was grown. It resembles a gigantic thistle, and its 
flower-heads, before blooming, have somewhat the appearance 
of a small pine-apple, at which time they are highly prized on 
European tables, particularly by the French. Tiiere are 
two varieties, viz : — tlie Oval green or French (C. scolymus), — • 
and the Red or Globe (C. hortensis). The latter lias a purple 
head, and is generally most esteemed ; but the first has the 
advantages of greater hardihood and productiveness. 

CuLTORE. — The artichoke is propagated by seeds, or by 
suckers fi'oin old roots. It flourishes best in a soil which is 
deep, light and rich ; dry in winter, but somewhat moist in 
the summer season. The Situation should be open, and free 
from the influence of trees. 

Wlien you wish to raise seedlings, you may sow as soon 
as the frost leaves the ground in spring. One ounce of seed 
8 



86 GAUDENER'S TEXT^BOOK. 

Trill produce about six hundred plants. Sow in drills one foot 
apart, and two inches deep. When the stems are an inch 
high, they may be thinned out to distances of ten inches in the 
drill. Keep the ground light, and free of weeds, by the oc^ 
casional use of the hoe. At the approach of cold weather, 
protect the bed by a covering of litter, and in the following 
spring, remove the plants to their permanent location, in the 
manner directed for suckers. 

The suckers are afforded by the old roots, early in spring. 
They are tit for transplanting when eight or ten inches in 
height. After the ground for a bed has been selected, it 
should be spaded deeply, and manured with good rotten 
dung, sea-weed, salt, or anything of a saline character. Slip 
the young shoots from the parent root, and reject all that are 
tough and woody. Those only should be selected for a plan- 
tation, which are tender, with a general appearance of healtli, 
and having many fibrous roots attached. The loose outside 
leaves ought to be pulled off, so that the heart can be seen. 
If the shoots have been for some -time exposed to the air, they 
are much benefited by being placed in water for three or four 
hours before planting. They may then be set out by the dib* 
ble, in ro-Ws three by four feet apart, witli about half their 
length below the surface. They ought to be watered every 
evening until they become firmly established, and subse* 
quently during times of drought; by which means, the size 
and succulency of the edible parts will be much increased. 

The only cultivation needed during the spring and summer, 
is to keep the soil clean and mellow, as Well as to apply water 
in dry weather. Under such treatment, a few heads for use 
may be expected between August and November, although m 
subsequent years the maturity of the crop will conmience 
much earlier in the season. In addition to the principal head, 
there will be several smaller ones on the lower part of each 
stem ; but, if the quality of the produce be more regarded 
than its quantity, these lower buds should be removed when 



DICTIONARY. 87 

quite young. The head is permitted to grow until the scales 
spread, and tlie flower seems about to open. The stem must 
then be cut off close to the ground, so as to encourage a new 
growth of suckers before winter. 

Although apparently possessing a hardy constitution, this 
vegetable is very sensitive to the frost, requiring winter pro- 
tection in the northern states. In order that the roots may 
strengthen themselves as much as possible, this protection may 
with propriety be delayed until there is a prospect of hard 
frost — say in November or December, according to the season. 
Cut away all the decayed leaves, with care not to injure the 
young growth. Then dig over the sui'face soil, and draw it 
up into a kind of ridge along each row of plants, in such a 
manner that ilut'ir hearts will be clear. An application of dung 
before this process of earthing up, sometimes causes the shoots 
to decay. In all severe weather, the plants ought to be shel- 
tered by a layer of leaves, branches or coarse litter. 

When spring opens, all danger of hard frost being passed, 
and the young buds having faudy started, the litter or other 
protection is to be removed, and the ridges levelled. Make a 
selection of the suckers for new plantations, and, as they will 
not be wanted until they are eight or ten inches in height, they 
may be suffered to remain on the roots, together with two or 
three of the strongest shoots, which are to be left for heading. 
All other shoots, and every bud, must be removed by a knife, 
or by the simple pressui-e of the thumb and linger, .Dig the 
ground thoroughly, and mix with it a quantity of good rotten 
manure, fresh sea- weed or salt. As soon as the suckers in- 
tended for transplanting acquire sufficient size, they may be 
taken up and treated in the manner before described. 

An artichoke bed seldom continues in perfection for a 
longer time than six years; after that period the flower heads 
become gradually smaller and less succulent. For which 
reason, and because it so happens that the first cutting season 
of young plants commences about the time wh.cn the old 



88 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

stocks cease bearing, many gardeners make a new plantation 
every spring, whereby fine heads for the table may be ob- 
tained from June to November. 

For seed, — select some of the best heads, and permit them 
to flower. To prevent water settling in the expanded calyx, 
the stalk must be somewliat bent over, by being tied to a 
small stake. The seed will be ripe in the fall. Gather it 
■when dry ; rub it out of the husk ; and store it in a cool, dry 
apartment. Its vegetative power may be depended upon for 
at least three years. 

Use. — As a vegetable, the artichoke is wholesome, but, 
probably, not very nourishing. It is used in various ways. In 
Italy, the young tender heads are eaten as a salad, with oil, 
salt and pepper. The edible parts are the receptacle of the 
flower, called the "bottom," and the fleshy substance on the 
bottom of the calyx scales. In England, the whole head is 
usually boiled plain, and the scales are pulled off at the table, 
one or two at a time, dipped in butter and pepper, and stripped 
of their fleshy part by the teeth. The stalks are eaten in 
France and Germany, after having been boiled and pickled. 
The flowers have the property of rennet in curdling milk, and 
the juice of the leaves and stalks, when prepared with bis- 
muth, imparts a permanent gold color to wool ; and, when 
mixed with an equal quantity of white wine, is said to have 
been successful in the cure of the dropsy. 

To boil. — Scrape the artichokes, and put them into boiling 
water, with an allowance of a tablespoonful of salt to every 
two dozen heads. In about two hours' time they will become 
quite tender, when they may be taken from the fire, and sea- 
soned with butter and salt. 

To pickle. — Soak the artichokes in salt antl water for sever- 
al days. Drain them, and afterwards rub off all the outside 
skin. To one gallon of vinegar, add one tablespoonful oi 
alum, and a teacupful of salt ; and turn it over the artichokes 



DICTIONARY, 



89 



wlieii it is scalding hot. After remaining a week, it should 
be drawn off, scalded, and then returned : the process being 
repeated, at intervals of six or seven days, mitil the heads ap- 
pear to be thorouglily pickled. 

Artichoke (Jerusalem).— >See JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 
ASPARAGUS. — Asparagus officinalis. 

A well known perennial, the young shoots of which are 
highly esteemed as a culinary vegetable. It grows wild in 
great luxuriance on sandy plains near the sea ; and is found 
indigenous in Great Britain, as well as on the saline steppes of 
Russia and Poland. In this natural state, however, the stem 
is usually not thicker than a goose quill, and only a few 
inches in heiglit, whilst the roots penetrate to but little depth. 
One of the most interesting paragraphs in its history, is the 
account of the gradual enlargement in its size and tlie im- 
provement in its quality, wliich have been effected Avholly by 
the process of cultivation. The original plant could not now 
be recognized by any other person than the botanist. It was 
raised by the ancient Romans with such success, that we are 
told three of the slioots sometnnes weiglied as much as a 
pound. At the present day, it is considered one of our great- 
est delicacies, and is particularly valuable on account of the 
early season in wliich it comes forward for the table. Of the 
many varieties to be obtamed from nurserymen, tliose best 
adapted to general culture are — the Purple-top, and the 
Green-top, so named from the color of the shoots. Much has 
been said in favor of several new kinds, but it is believed 
that they are indebted for their extraordinary size chiefly to 
skilful management, — deprived of which, tliey would soon re- 
sume their original cliaracter. A good soil, plenty of manure, 
and careful culture, are tlie only requisites to success. 
8=1^ 



90 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Culture. — The seed — one ounce being sufficient for nine 
or ten hundred plants, — is to be thinly sown, in drills sixteen 
inches apart, early in the spring — say from about the middle 
of March to the beginning of April, due regard being had to 
the forwardness of the season. If you have no drill-rake with 
the teeth set at that distance apart, you can mark out the bed 
■with the rake intended for eight inch drills, and in sowing 
pass over every other one. Cover the seed about an inch and 
a half deep. If the weather continue dry, the ground ought 
to be covered with straw or brush duriug the middle of tlie 
day, until germination takes place. Or, water may be 
frequently applied in small quantities, unil the same end is 
accomplished. When the young plants are a few inches 
high, they must be thinned out to distances of six or eight 
inches in the drill. Tlie surface should be kept open and free 
from weeds. By the middle or latter part of November, re- 
move the withered stalks, by cutting them down close to the 
ground, and then cover the bed with two inches of rotten 
dung, overlaid by coarse stable litter. This protection not only 
Baves the roots from being injured by the frost, but secures a 
vigorous growth during the next summer. 

In tlie following spring, preparations should be early made 
for transplanting. This will be performed m March or April, 
just after the buds start, and before they are f;ir advanced. 
Plants may remain in the seed bed for one, two and three years, 
but they seldom succeed when moved after that. period. We 
think that, all things considered, the best time for the opera- 
tion is when they are one year old, and here give directions 
based upon that opinion. The mast suitable soil is a fresh, 
sandy loam, deep and mellow, but lying on a dry substratum. 
The situation should be open to the sun, and free from tlie 
injurious influences of trees or large shrubs. For a family of 
moderate size, a surfiice of eight or nine square rods is gen- 
erally thought sufficiently large, as it can be made to afford 
one hundred shoots every day through the cutting season. 



DICTIONARY. 91 

Spade it thoroughly to the depth of tliree feet, and intimately 
mix with it a large quantity of well rotted dung or sea-weed. 
It will be recollected that the natural asparagu=i grown on a 
poor, sandy beach, is a very. different vegetable from that pro- 
duced in a highly cultivated garden ; indeed, tlie productive- 
ness and sweetness of the shoots depend altogether upon the 
fertility of the soil. In addition to this application of dung, it 
■will be a good way to add a\)out fifty pounds of salt to a 
bed of the size above mentioned. It has been well observed 
by some writer, that this preparation of the ground in the out- 
set, is of more importance than the after-management. After 
being thus spaded and manured, the plat may be laid out into 
beds four feet wide, with alleys of eighteen inches or two feet. 

"When the plants discover the first indications of growth, 
take them up carefully from the seed bed by means of a fork, 
and suffer them to be exposed to the air as little as possible. 
They may be placed ia a small basket of sand, and covered 
witli a mat. The delicate, fibrous roots are apt to get entan- 
gled if handled roughly, and thereby cause the loss of much 
time in effecting a separation without doing them injury. 
Stretch the line lengthwise of the bed, about one foot from the 
edge, and op^n with the spade a F'-shaped trench, six or eight 
inches deep. Tlie side next the line should be nearly per- 
pendicular, against which the plants are to be set, at distances 
of twelve or fourteen inches, with the crowns about two inches 
below the surface. Draw the roots out regularly in the shape 
of a fan, and steady them in their places by a little dirt, until 
tlie trench can be filled up by the rake. After one row is 
planted, and the ground has been smoothly levelled, open a 
second trench in the same manner, a foot distant from the first. 
The bed will thus hold three rows of plants. It is a good 
way to place them in the quincuncial form, thus : — 

TrP tF TJ* T^ ^ 

^ ^ ^ -7? ^ ^ 



92 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Rake the surface even, and bring all the small stones into the 
alleys, for removal in the wheelbarrow. In a dry season, 
water may be frequently applied with advantage. By an 
occasional use of the hoe, you will prevent the admission of 
weeds, which, in additit)n to their unsightly appearance, are 
of decided injur}'' to the I'oots. Keep the edges of the bed 
trimmed even ; and never tread upon it, as its narrow width 
renders that unnecessary. For economy of room, a few cab- 
bages may be grown in the alleys ; but lettuce and radish 
seed ought never to be sown among the asparagus plants, to 
rob tlie soil of what rightfully belongs to them alone. 

At the approach of winter, when their natural season of 
growth is over, the tops will turn white, and they may then 
be cut down close to the ground. Care should be observed 
not to do this while they are a: all green, because in that case 
the roots are likely to sprout again. The dead stalks, and all 
weeds — if any there be found, can either be gathered into a 
pile and burned, or else be taken to the compost heap or pig 
pen, to be subsequently returned to the ground in the shape 
of manure. The bed ought now to receive a thin top-dress- 
ing of good, rotten dung, a'>:>ut three inches thick, together 
with a covering of leaves, litter, or even a little rich soil. Tliis 
is the only way to ensure a healtliy growth of the roots in the 
coming year. 

In March or April of the following spring, as soon as the 
frost leaves the ground, and before the buds are expected to 
start, remove the covering, and dig the surface of the bed 
with the fork, in order to mix the old manure with the soil, 
as well as to admit heat and air to the roots. Tlie tines of 
the fork ought not to bo inserted to a greater depth than three 
or four inches, lest the crowns of the roots be injured. This 
having been properly done, the next thing is to rake off the 
heavy clods and stones into the alleys. Owing to its marine 
character, the asparagus plant receives decided benefit from 
frequent and liberal applications of common salt. It is best 



DICTIOXARY. 93 

applied at this season of the year, spread thinly upon the 
surface of the bed, and then raked under. A smaller quan- 
tity may be given some two or three times afterwards during 
the sunimer. Many gardeners recommend the use of brine of 
the strength of sea- water, to be sprinkled upon the ground 
every fortnight or three weeks through the growing season. 
There is but little danger of making the ground too rich ; 
some caution must be observed, however, in the application of 
salt, as by its injudicious use several fine plantations are said 
to have been destroyed. In our own garden, all that we dare 
do, is to sprinkle on just enough to make the ground look 
■white, as though a light snow had fallen. 

This course of management for the spring and winter 
dressings, must be pursued annually so long as the bed re- 
mains. In summer, the only culture necessary is to keep the 
soil in good tilth. In dry seasons, a regular application of 
■water at stated intervals will prove of decided benefit, secur- 
ing a vigorous and uninterrupted growth. After the first 
year, the alleys should not be dug up by the spade or hoe, 
as they then contain a large quantity of the ro(its, injury to 
which would seriously affect the plants in the outside lows of 
the beds to which they belong. The foliage is sometimes at- 
tacked by beetles ; the only remedy seems to be committing 
to the tire the parts -which are affected. No portion of the 
crop ought to be gathered previous to the fourth season after 
the sowing of the seed. In the first three summers, the stalks 
must be allowed to grow up at will, in order that the roots 
may strengthen themselves, so as after that time to yield an 
annual supply of sprouts for the table. Cutting may commence 
in the fourth spring, -when the shoots are about four inches 
liigh, tlie top buds being close and firm. Scrape away a little 
dirt from each shoot, and cut it off in a slanting direction, 
about three inches below the surface, by means of a narrow, 
sharp-pointed knife. Particular care must be taken not to 
wound the young buds, which are pushing themselves towards 



94 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



the light. Whenever, as will generally be the case with young 
plantations, the roots throw up shoots of au infeiior size, 
the cutting season should be immediately discontinued ; or, 
otherwise, the roots will be weakened, and rendered imfit for a 
generous crop in the succeeding spring. On no consideration 
whatever, should the cutting season be extended beyond the 
20th of June. A healthy bed, under good management, will 
continue to bear abundantly for ten or twelve years, after which 
time the value of the crop generally declines, in quality as 
well as in quantity. Instances are recorded, however, of 
plantations continuing productive for lialf a century. Market 
gardeners are accustomed to take roots which are six or eight 
years old, and use them for forcing ; so that to keep them- 
selves constantly supplied with bearing plants, they are 
obliged to make a new bed every year. For small gardens, 
we should not recommend making a bed oftener than once ill 
six years, or sooner than four years before it is intended to 
break up the old one. 

Our plan required that we should give full directions for 
the culture of aspariigus from the seed. We, however, advise 
the reader who is about starting a new garden, or trying as- 
paragus for the first time, that he shall purchase two or three 
year old roots from a nurseryman. This will give him a crop 
one or two years sooner than he could obtain it from the seed. 
The mode of planting, and the subsequent cultivation, will be 
m every particular as above described. 

Forcing. — With marketmen it is a matter of profit, and 
with amateurs of curiosity or rivalry, to produce asparagus out 
of its natural season ; this must be accomplished by artificial 
heat. Tlie first plantation may be made iji the middle of au- 
tumn, and others every four weeks afterward until the middle 
of March; by which means, a continued supply ofsiiootscan be 
obtained from December up to the time of the first cutting in 
the open ground. The process is simple and easily practised. 
The materials for the hut-bed should first undergo fermenta- 



DICTIONARY. 95 

tion, that vrlien put under a frame, the heat may be gentle and 
regular ; because if it be at all violent, it is apt to bring the 
plants up ^veak and spindling. Dung may be advantageously 
mixed with ashes or tan, which mixture, by ensuring mildness 
and regularity in the heat, is better than dung alone. The soil 
should be a good, mellow loam, and about six inches deep. 
Tlie gardener must not dream of 'putting in the roots, until the 
temperature of the bed is sufficiently reduced to prevent all 
danger of the mould being scorched. The maximum heat ought 
not to exceed 65®. 

The best roots for planting are those fi'om open air beds 
about six years old, and which are perfectly vigorous and 
healthy. Draw a little trench against one side of the framC) 
and set the roots therein about as near together as they will 
stand, with the crowns all at the same height. Another trench, 
about one inch' distant from the first, is to be filled in tlie same 
inanner ; and so proceed until the whole frame be occupied, or 
the supply of plants be exliausted. In this way, a single sash 
frame will hold an almost incredible number of plants. 
Then cover the whole with three inches of good soil, and 
apply water freely every three or four days. For the ad' 
mission of fresh air, as well as for the escape of rank vapor, 
the glass should be raised an inch or two, whenever the 
U'eather will permit, and there is no danger of too great a re* 
duction of heat in the bed. This is very important, and must 
on no account whatsoever be neglected. The proper temper* 
aturo to be preserved, is a medium of 60° ;— -not below 50° at 
night, nor above 65® at any time. The heat can be revived, if 
necessary, by linings of fresh dung. In cold nights, the plants 
will require the protection of mats or coarse litter, laid upon 
the glass to exclude frost. In the course of two or three weeks, 
the shoots will be of a suitable size for use, and the roots will 
probably continue productive, for about one month. Cutting 
th^m with, a knife is not advisable ; the fingers can easily ba 



9(5 ■ GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 

pushed through the soil, so as to break off the shoot at the cro\^n, 
without injuring its neighbors. 

For scad, — you must select some of the earhest and finest 
shoots, — those having large, close head?,— and allow them to 
run up without being cut. As some of the number v,'ill prob- • 
ably be unproductive, more must be left than at first would 
seem necessary to secure an abundance of seed. Support the 
stems by stakes, Vvdiicb, it may be worth while to inform some 
bunglers, need not be driven through the crowns of the roots. 
In autumn, when the berries are ripe, they should be stored 
in a dry place until wanted for sowing ; unless the seed is to 
be sent away for sale, in which case the berries must be left 
several days in a vessel of water, for the pulp to decay, before 
the seed is washed out. 

Use. — The esculent parts are the tender shoots, which are to 
be gathered soon after they peep above the surface of the bed. 
They are much esteemed on every table where they may be 
found, although not considered very nutritious. The plant 
possesses some diuretic qualities, which, it is said, render the 
shoots unfit for persons troubled with the diabetes,v>'hile of great 
benefit to such as are suffering from the gravel, or complaints 
of a kindred nature. Cobbett says, in his American Gardener, 
" Were I writing to Nova Scotians, I otight not to omit to give 
instructions as to which end of the asparagus the eater ought 
to use, for I know a gentlemen of that country, who being at 
New-York, on his first trip from home, began eating at the 
stem in place of the point." 

7(> cook. — In the first place, cut off the tough, white part of 
the stalks, in such manner tliat they may be of nearly equal 
length. Put them into small btindles, and boil them from fif- 
teen to twenty minutes according to their age. The addition of 
a quarter-teaspoonful of salaratus to three quarts of the water, 
will preserve the fresh, green color of the asparagus. A little 
.salt should be put in the stew pan. Toast a large slice ol 



DICTIONARY. 97 

bread, and lay it in the bottom of a vegetable dish. Then 
moisten the toast with a little water from the stew pan, and 
butter it. Wlien the asparagus is taken up and drained, it is 
to be laid on the toast, and the strings removed. Serve with 
melted butter, and salt to the taste. 

BALM. — Melissa officinaUs. 

A hardy perennial, having a fragrant smell, and a native of 
Switzerland. The name Melissa is from the Greek word for 
honey, which attracts large numbers of bees to the flowers. It 
is cultivated principally for medicinal purposes ; and only a few 
plants are required in a common-sized garden. 

Culture. — It may be propagated by seed, by offsets of the 
roots, or by slips of the young shoots. The first two modes 
can be practised either in spring or in autumn, but slips are 
generally found to succeed best when they have been set out 
in the latter part of spring. Place them first in a shady bor- 
der, where they may take root, and remove them to their final 
location in the following autumn. They should stand about 
ten mches from each other. Tlie balm is best pleased with a 
poor, friable soil, and needs no manure. About the only atten- 
tion required on the part of the gardener, is to prevent its ex- 
tending itself too widely. Tlie decayed leaves and stalks, how- 
ever, ought to be cleared away, and the soil of the bed loosened 
by the hoe, at the close of each season. 

Use. — Formerly, very extravagant notions were held, in re- 
lation to the medicinal virtues of the plant, but its importance 
is now rated much lower. By distillation it yields a fragrant 
oil, which, when diluted with water, proves grateful and benefi- 
cial in ca=es of fever, and to persons of a lax, debilitated habit. 
A strong infusion of the young shoots is also used for the same 
purposes. For drying, gather the stalks when the flowers are 

9 



98 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 

about to open, and when perfectly free from dew or moisture. 
Place them in the shade, or in an oven, Avhere they may dry 
rapidly ; and, after they become cool, press them into pack- 
ages, to be covered with white paper, and hung away in a cool, 
dry apartment 

BASIL.— Ocymimi basiliciwu 

There are two species of the basil, of which the Sweet' 
scented [Ocijmicin basllicum,) is most usually cultivated for culi- 
nary purposes. Though introduced as early as 1573, it has 
aot been long' used. It is a fragrant, aromatic annual, with an 
odor somewhat resembling that of cloves, and came originally 
from the East Indies. 

CoLTUaE.-— The plants require a fertile, mellov/ soil, which 
>3 free from the shade of trees or buildings. The seed may be 
pown ill a warm., sheltered border, about the middle of April ; 
or upon a small hot-bed, somewhere about the first of April ; 
the plants to be removed to the open compartment in a month 
or six weeks afrerwards. They ought to stand six or eight 
inches apart, in rows one foot distant from each other. Basil 
makes quite a pretty edging for the large beds. During the 
summer, the ground ought to be occasionally stirred with the 
hoe, and kept clean of weeds ; by which trifling attention, the 
health and vigor of the plants Avill be greatly benefited. In 
dry Weather, frequent sprinklings of water are found of advan- 
tage. Bixsil is rather tender, and liable to injury from early 
frosts, for which reason the winter supply ought to be cut in 
autumn, before the approach of cold weather. It can be tied 
in sm.all bundles, and hung up in an airy garret to dry. 

Fo7'seed,—Aet some of the healthiest looking plants remain 
uncut. The flowers open about August, and the seed will 
ripen before the middle of autumn. 



DICTIONARY. 99 

Use. — Basil is considered an important pot-herb in the 
Frencli cuisine. From their agreeable, spicy flayer, the young 
leaves are employed in many different kinds of highly season- 
ed dishes — such as soups and sauces. They are also put in 
salads, and the peculiar flavor of mock-turtle soup is chiefly 
owing to their presence. In England and this country, how- 
ever, tlie plant does not maintain such a high reputation, and 
it cannot be considered a regular tenant of the kitchen garden. 

BEAN.—FJiaseolus. 

Commonly called the Kidney, or French bean, in contra- 
distinction to the Encjlish Horse bean, which is of quite in- 
ferior quality in this country. The botanical name is derived 
from the resemblance in the shape of the pods to a kind of 
ship, supposed to have been invented at Phaselis, a town oi 
Pamphylia. It is considered to be a native of India. There 
are two species, viz : the Dwarf and the Pole, being named in 
accordance with their peculiar habits of growth. Each kind 
deserves a separate notice. 

The Dwaaf, or Bush Bean. — P. Vulgaris. 

Seedsmen enumerate many varieties, some of which are 
scarcely worth cultivatioa Yet gardeners differ so much in 
their preferences, that it is almost impossible for us to pre- 
sent such a select list as will give satisfaction to every reader. 
In passing an opinion upon any selection of varieties, allow- 
ance must always be made for differences of soil and situation, 
as well as for other natural causes over which the cultivator 
can liave no control. "We believe the following kinds, named 
in nearly their order of succession for the table, to be the 
most valuable for small gardens : — tlie Early Mohawk, — the 
Early Yellow Six-Weeks, — the Early St. Valentine, — the 
China Red Eye, — the Roh Roy, — the Brown Valentine, — and 



100 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

the Royal White Kidney Dioarf. Nearly all of tliese have 
pynonjms ; for instance, the Brown Valentine is known to be 
tlie Late Valentine, — the Refugee, — and the Thousand-to-one. 
The Early Mohawk is very hardy, and is generally planted 
for the earliest crop. A modern and but httle known variety, 
is one called the Tartle Soup ; it is considered superior to the 
ordinary bush beans, on account of the tenderness and excel- 
lent flavor of its pods, and the long time which they continue 
fit for use. It bids fair to supersede many of the old favorites. 

CcLTuaE. — The Kidney bean prefers a light, rich soil, 
founded on a dry substratum ; indeed, anything is better than 
a clay of a "wet, tenacious character. For summer crops, it 
may be somewhat moist, but this quality is objectionable for 
both early and late sowings. Being originally a native of a 
■warm climate, the seed is remarkably tender, and oftentimes, 
for the want of a proper soil, decays without germinating, or 
becomes a spindling and unfruitful plant. As the ground mast be 
rich in order to yield abundantly, a good do^e of well rotted 
manure should be applied broadcast, and spaded under, or else 
put in the drills at the time of sowing. The first course is 
much the best, and ought always to be followed where prac- 
ticable. 

Forcing — is often resorted to, for the earliest crop. The 
hot-bed is of moderate size, and covered with eight or ten 
inches of fine mould. After the rankness of the freshly pre- 
pared dung has escapeji, and the heat becomes regular, the 
seed may be thinly sown in drills ten inches apart. The proper 
temperature to be observed is between 60° and *75° Fahr. 
Fresh air must, however, b3 admitted freely at all times when 
the weather will permit, while tepid water is to be applied 
in moderate quantities every two or three days. The most 
forward plants can, by the first of April, be remDved to a 
warm, sheltered harder, where the protection of hand-glasses 
or vine-shields is to be given them, at night and during cold 



DICTIONARY. lOj 

davs. Tliey should be gradually accustomed to the change of 
locality, as well as to the absence of artificial heat, lest by a 
too sudden exposure to the chill air, both tliej and the culti- 
vator's hopes be blasted at the same moment. 

Planting in the open ground — may be commenced some 
time between tlie middle of April and the first part of May, 
after the ground has become warm, and the weather is appa- 
rently settled. Tlie bean is very sensitive to cold, and the 
earliest sowing is frequently destroyed by late frosts. For a 
succession of crops, the sowing must be repeated every two 
or three weeks until the beginning of August. After that 
period, the cold frame, and subsequently the liot-bed, will be 
again necessary. For the early and late crops, a dry, shel- 
tered border is desirable. In this way, the table can be kept 
constantly supplied for many months. Wi\o that is acquaint- 
ed with the merits of the bean as an esculent, will not be 
willing to make some extra exertion to secure so desirable a 
result ? 

Plant the seed one and a half inches deep, and two inches 
apart, in drills two feet asunder. One quart of seed will thus 
suflace for about two hundred and fifty feet of row. • When 
the plants are three inches high, and again when about 
to flower, draw the earth carefully up around their stems ; 
which protects the roots from the enervating effects of heat 
and drought. At all seasons of their growth, however, the 
soil ought to be kept, by the frequent use of the hoe, free from 
weeds, and open to the beneficial influences of the atmosphere. 

The' Pole Beans. — P. Ibnensis et muitljiorus. 

Sometimes these are called Runners, or Climbers. Of the 
Phaseolus limensis there are tAvo varieties which have a hitdi 
and well deserved reputation for the table, viz : the Green and 
White Limas. The 6V^en is preferable on account of size ; but, 
as regards the certainty and miiformity of a crop, the White 
9* 



102 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

seems to have the advantage. They are both largely culti- 
vated, especially in the vicinity of cities, where they will 
always meet with a ready sale, both when green and when 
dried for winter use. Of the Pliascolus multijlorus, which 
was carried from South America to England in 1633, there 
are the Scarlet Runner, — the Dutch Case-knife, — the Carolina 
Sewec, (L'c. These are all excellent of their kind, but in this 
country are generally ranked inferior to the popular Limas. 

Culture. — As the pole beans are found even more tender 
than the dwarfs, planting in the open ground must be delayed 
still later, until all liability to rot, in consequence of cold, 
damp weather, shall have passed. Gardeners pursue many 
different modes of obtaining early plants. By some, the seed 
is put into small pots, which are set upon a hot-bed, and al- 
lowed to remam there until the stems are three inches high, 
when, with the balls of dirt attached, they are placed in a 
warm border. Others, however, put large sods upside down 
in a shallow frame, and, with the spade, cut them into small 
pieces Uke the squares of a chequer-board ; upon each piece a 
single bean is planted, and removed to the open ground, as 
soon as the weather is settled and the stem is of sufficient 
size. Little advantage is gained by forwarding plants, be- 
cause they are particularly liable to injury from a change of 
position. For the family gardener, we think it much the best 
policy to be patient until the earth becomes warm, and spring 
seems to have really opened. 

The proper time for the first sowing, is somewhere be- 
tween the first part and the middle of May. Should the 
season be remarkably early, perhaps the. last week of April 
will be suitable. But the gardener must not be surprised, if 
untoward weather destroy both the first and second plant- 
ings. The soil should be mellow, rich, and in rather a 
wai*m situation. Lay the ground out in hills — say three feet 
apart each way, — as if for Indian corn, and put in the bottom 



DICTIONARY. 103 

of each a liberal supply of old dung or compost. Tliey ought 
to be three or four iuches above the average level. Plant five 
ov six beans in a hill, and cover them about one inch deep. 
One quai't of seed will supply in the neighborhood of three 
hundred hills. A curious fact is stated in relation to the Li- 
77ias, viz : that the eye should always be put downward, as 
the seed rises out of the ground in that position ; in defect of 
which, it often refuses to vegetate. Reduce the number of 
plants to three in a hill, and, if that number be wanting, sow 
again. When they are a few inches high, draw a little earth 
around them as a support^ As soon as the runners start, it is 
time to set the pole.s, wliich may be ten or twelve feet high, 
and, for appearance' sake, ought to range accurately, and be 
of a nearly uniform height Some of tlie runners will perhaps 
be a little wayward, and require being brought back to the 
poles. Use the hoe frequently ; there is nothing like keeping 
the soil mellow andcleaa AVe have often raised good crops 
in the hills with Indian corn, letting the vines run upon the 
stalks. Nipping off the ends of the shoots, when the first blos- 
soms begin to drop, accelerates the growth of the pods. 

For seed, — the varieties should be kept distinct, as they are 
very liable to hitermixture. Either sow expressly for the 
purpose of raising seed, or else leave particular rows ungath- 
ered. An excellent mode is, when gathering the crop, to leave 
the best pods upon the bushes. Always select the earliest 
and fiiiest looking, which, after being thoroughly ripened by 
the sun, are to be pulled with the vines, and left for several 
days in some dry place, that all tlieir moisture may escape. 
Beat out the seed, and store it in a cool apartment 

Use. — As an esculent, the bean is wholesome and nutri- 
tious, well meriting tiie high favor in which it is universally 
held. In proportion to its weight, it gives more nutriment, and 
better supplies the place of animal food, than any of the ordi- 
nary vegetables. One of its most valuable qualities, is the 
ease with which it can be preserved for use in winter. In gath- 



104 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

ering for the kitchen, take those pods that are fleshy and ten- 
der, as being then in the highest perfection. Pull them care- 
fully, so that the smaller ones may not be prejudiced in their 
growtbi. It must be the gardener's object, to render the vines 
as prolific and long-lived as possible. 

To boil String Beans. — Take off the strings, and cut the beans 
into short pieces. Boil them with a little salt, from twenty to for- 
ty minutes, according to their age, A little salaratus ia the pot^ 
preserves their green color, and makes them more healthy. 
They ought to be quite tender, before being taken from the fire. 
Add salt and butter, and then carry immediately to the table. 

Shell Beans — are cooked in the same way, either with or 
without the salaratus. 

To bake White Beans. — Pick them over carefully, and at 
evening put them to soak in a slightly warm place. Put a 
quart of water to a pii:it of beans. Tlie next morning, rinse 
them well in two or three waters, and boil them for ten or fif- 
teen minutes ; at the end of which time, take them up with a 
skimmer, and lay them in a baking dish. Put in the centre a 
piece of salt pork, having the rind scored, with the top just 
exposed ; and then pour in cold water, so that it n^ay be 
seen at the sides of the dish. Bake them in a hot oven for 
three hours; and the time may be extended to six hours with 
advantage. 

For piekling, — gather the beans while small and tender. 
Keep them in salt and water, which should be changed every 
five or six days, until you have a sufScient quantity. Then 
scald them with hot salt and water, and, when they become 
cool, turn on hot vinegar, spiced with pepper-corns, mace, Ac. 

To preserve Lima Beans. — lliey may be dried on the floor 
cf an airy garret, or put with layers of salt in a k^, to be 
covered tight, and kept in a cool place. Before being cooked, 
they should be soaked over night, and boiled with a little sala- 
ratus. They will then be as tender and palatable, as though 
just picked from the vines. 



DICTIONARY. 104 

BEET.— Beta. 

It would appear tliat the beet originated on tbe seacoaSt 
of soutliorn Europe, where it may at tlie present time be found 
in a wild state. It was introduced into England by one of the 
Tradescants, about the year 1656, and was at first cultivated 
under the name of Beet-rave, or Beet-radish. The botanical 
name is said to liave been derived, from tlie resemblance which 
the seed vessel, when swelling, bears to J2 [Beta) the second 
character of the Greek alphabet. 

The genus Beta comprehends several biennial species, of 
which the principal are the B. cicla, and the B. vulgaris. The 
first named is cultivated for its large stalks, and the white, 
solid midrib of its succulent leaves. They are wholesome, with 
a pleasant, sweet taste. The green part of the leaves is boiled 
and eaten like spinach, while the stalks and midribs are dressed 
like asparagus. The principal variety is the Swiss Chard, or 
Sea-kale-beet It produces abundantly, and is one of the 
chief vegetables of the agricultural laborers in Germany, 
France and Switzerland. We are in hopes to see it generally 
introduced into our gardens, as we believe it well worthy of at- 
tentioa The second species, the B. vulgaris, is distinguished 
by a large, fleshy root, which is both palatable and nutritious. 
The varieties are numerous ; tliose considered best are — the 
Blood Turnip-rooted, excellent for summer use ; the Early 
Long Blood, which matures next in order, and is raised in large 
quantities for market ; the London Blood, a new kind that is 
acquiring a good reputation ; and the noted Mangold Wurzel, 
which, although principally used for farm animals, is when 
young and tender very good for the table. 

CuLTUEE. — All tap-rooted vegetables require a rich, deep 
soil, and this seems particularly necessary for a successful 
growth of beets. As soon, therefore, as the ground is opened 
in spring, it should be spaded or trenched from a foot to eigh- 



106 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

teen inches deep, and enriched by a liberal supply of old ma- 
nure. When danger of severe frost is over, the beds may be 
marked out into drills, sixteen or twenty inches apart, for the 
early crops. Scatter the seed rather thickly, — an ounce being 
sufficient for near one rod of ground, — and cover it about an 
inch deep. It is better to thin the plants when they stand too 
close together in the drills, than to be obliged to fill up vacant 
spaces by transplanting. The seed is most commonly steeped 
in warm water, for two or three days before the time of sow- 
ing, so as to soften the hard outer skin, and thereby facilitate 
the process of germination. If the soil be light and dry, press 
it down hard upon the seed, by means of a roller, or by walk- 
ing upon a long board laid across tlie drills. 

For the autumn and winter crops, sow later iri the season, — 
say from the middle of May to the last of June, — as the pro- 
duce will be found better suited for the table, and will keep 
better through the winter, than that of the early sowing:^ 
Where the roots acquire their full growth before cold weather 
comes on, they soon lose their agreeable succulency, and ofteiv 
times decay before the winter is half gone. 

As soon as the plants are out of danger, their leaves being 
well advanced, they must be thinned out in the drill, — at first, 
to distances of four inches, and subsequently, if lai'ge roots be 
wanted, to distances of eight inches. If there be any vacant 
spaces in the rows, they ought to be filled at this time ; although 
experience has shown that the beet succeeds best when not 
transplanted. The subsequent culture is simple, being merely 
to stir the ground often, and keep it free from weeds. Every 
hours labor upon the bed will increase the quantity of the 
produce, and add greatly to its value for culinary purposea 

The roots ought to be taken up, as soon as vegetation is 
checked by the uppi'oach of frost. Dig them carefully, be- 
cause they will bleed much, if broken or cut. After a few 
hours' exposure to the air, in order that any surplus moisture 
may be evaporated, they can be stored for win.ter use. Cut 



DICTIONARY. 107 

oiT the tops at least an inch above the crowns, and either feed 
them to the cattle, or put them in the compost heap. The roots 
may tlien be carried to the cellar, and piled up against the wall, 
with alternate layers of sand or dry ea^-th ; or they may be 
Iieaped up in the open air, with layers of earth, in the shape of 
a pyramid, or the roof of a house, and then covered with straw 
and earth for protection against frost,— a small hole being left 
at the top of the mound for tlie escape of steam, and a trench 
being dug around it to prevent water coming in contact with 
the roots. 

For seed — In the spring, plant out a few of the finest look- 
ing roots, such as are smooth and well-shaped, and, during the 
summer, keep them free from the company of weeds. It may 
6e necessary to support the stems by tying them to stakes. 
Gather the seed as soon as it becomes ripe. 

Use. — Apart from its value in an agricultural point of 
view, the beet root is considered indispensable on many tables. 
When of good size, it is t-euder, sweet and wholesome. . It pos- 
sesses some very slight medicinal qualities ; and although very 
tiourisliing, if it be eaten in great quantity, is said to be injuri- 
ous to tlie stonaacb. It can be substituted for malt in the manu- 
facture of beer, wliile the white varieties are largely cultivated 
in France for the manufacture of sugar. The leaves grown on 
a rich soil, afford considerable pure nitre. For the table, the 
beet is used in a variety of ways. The young, tender tops are 
sometimes cooked in the same manner as spinach ; while the 
root is put in salads, pickled in cold vinegar, or stewed with 
onions. 

To pickle, — Do not cut or scrape the roots before boiling ; 
■which would cause the juice to run out, and render them in- 
sipid. It is only necessary to wash them clean. In summer, 
they will boil in about an hour ; but, in whiter, double that 
time will be required ; allowance, of course, bemg always 



108 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

made for difference in size. After tliey have been boiled, cut 
them up in slices, and cover with cold spiced-vinegar. 

BORAGE. — Borago officinalis. 

Originally from Aleppo, this weed has become naturalized 
in many parts of the world. It gi-ows about two feet high, 
with broad leaves, and handsome flowers. It was formerly 
much esteemed, but in most modern gardens has given way to 
more valuable plants. 

Culture. — Tlie most suitable soil is one that is bt)th light 
and dry. It need not be very rich, because the pleasant flavor 
of the leaves and flowers would be injured by a rank luxuri- 
ance of growth. The seed may be sown in April, or, indeed, at 
almost any time during the spring and summer. Sow in 
shallow drills six inches apart, and afterwards thin out the 
plants to the same distances. After the operation of trans- 
planting, water must be applied in moderate quantities until 
the roots become firmly established. 

For Seed. — Some plants which have survived the winter, 
must be allowed to perfect themselves. Gather the stalks, 
and let the seed be perfectly dry before attempting to nib it 
out. 

Use. — The tender leaves are in some places put in salads 
or cooked like spinach. The flowers are occasionally used to 
ornament a salad dish, or to flavor a cup of negus. In ancient 
times, many wonderful virtues were ascribed to borage, and, 
even now, by the ignorant it is ranked high in the list of medic- 
inal herbs, 

BORECOLE. — Brassica oleracea, var. 
Borecole, — sometimes known under the name of Kale, — w 



DICTIONARY. 109 

but one of the many varieties of the celebrated cabbage fam- 
ily. It seems to be distinguished by a large, open head, and 
generally by curled or wrinkled leaves. It has a peculiarly 
strong, liardy constitution. It is thought very valuable for 
cultivation hi the Southern states, because it requires little or 
no protection during the winter months. The principal sub- 
varieties are — the Scotch Kale, — the Green Curled^ — theCasar- 
ian Kale, — and the Thousand-headed Cabbage. 

Culture.— Sow the seed — one ounce of which will furnish 
four thousand plants, or about that number, — during the first 
p"ai't of May ; but not earlier, unless the season be quite for- 
ward. Transplant in July into rich, mellow soil. For more 
particular directions, the reader is requested to refer to the arti- 
cle on Cabbage, which is cultivated in the same manner. For 
preservation in the open air through the cold weather, the 
plants should be set quite close together in a trench, with the 
earth drawn up to the lower leaves, and covered with straw or 
litter ; wlien a head is wanted, it is only necessary to remove 
the covering, and cut off the stalk with a sharp knife, leaving 
the stump in the ground, wliere it will produce fine greens iiL 
the following spring. 

For need, — leave some of the best heads in the bed where' 
grown, or else transplant, during open weather, into raws 
three feet apart each way. It is the nature of this family of 
vegetables to intermix freely, and run into hundrecb of sub-, 
varieties; care must, therefore, be taken to preveat different, 
kinds flowering at the same time in the vicinity of each other. 

Use. — Borecole is considered very delicate, and is much im- 
proved by an exposure to the frost. The crown or head of the 
plant is cut so as to include the leaves, which.do not exceeds 
nine inches in length. It boils well, and j^cves very tender 
and sweet. 

2o cook Grecna. — If not fresh and plump, they should be 
10 



soared iri salt and -water for half an hour before' cookings. Vui 
them in boiling water, with a little salaratus to preserve their 
color. A little salt should also be added. Keep the water 
boiling briskly until they are quite tender. 

BK0CG0JA.-^J3rassica oleracea, var. 

Afictlief variety of cablxige, inferior to the delicate cauli- 
flower only, which it much resembles in appearance, growth 
and flavor. It is supposed to haye originated on the island of 
Cyprus, in the Mediterranean, and has been greatly improved 
hy cultivation. Tlie name by which it is generally known, is 
derived from the Italian language, and, indeed, we know that it 
was first carried to Great Bi-itain from Italy. The seTeral sub- 
varieties which have been j^roduced by chance or intentional 
hybridization, differ greatly as to the color of their lieads, some 
being j'ellow, while others are White, purple, etc. As bi'occoli 
can be raised more easily and With greater certainty than the 
cauliflower, it is becoming very popular, especially among 
small gardffliers. The following kinds are considered among 
the best, "viz.: — Grange's Ea^'ly Caul'^otoerj-^he Early Purple 
Cape, — and the Early White Cape. 

CuLTUEE, — ^Market gardeners are accustomed to sow the 
seed in the latter part of summer, and, at the approach of win- 
ter, to set the plants in a cold frame for protection through the 
cold weather, in tlie manner diiected for Cabbage. These 
plants are to be removed to the open ground in spring, and 
carefully cultivated ; by which means, heads suitable for cook- 
ing are to be expected as early as the month of June. 

It is most common in this latitude, however, to wait until 
April or May, according to the character of the season, before 
sowing the seed, one ounce of which yields about four thou- 
sand plants. In the Southern states, the summer frequently 
proves too hot for the early-planted broccoli to come to per* 



DICTIONARY. HI 

fectiuii, and there the seed can be sown about the middle of 
July, on shaded borders, to be watered occasionally, if the 
weather be dry. In about a month's time, the plants will be 
of a proper size for removal to a large bed. 

The soil ought always to be mellow and rich, having an 
open exposure. Sow thinly in shallow drills, sis inches apart, 
and, if the surface be light and dry, press it down compactly by 
means of the roller, or by walking over a board placed length- 
wise of the bed. Should the weather continue dry, some de- 
lay, in the vegetation of the seed will probably be experienced. 
Tile soil may then be sprinkled with water every two or three 
days until the plants appear, or it may be covered during the 
day time, Avith a thin layer of straw or light mats. In the latter 
case, the covering should be removed at an early hour m the 
evening, that the natural deposit of dew may not be inter- 
rupted. Transplanting can be performed in Jmie or July, 
when each stem shows some five or six leaves. Set the 
plants out in rows, two feet apart each way. The work is best 
performed in dull, damp weather, and water ought to be given 
occasionally in moderate quantities until the roots become es- 
tabUshed, as well as subsequently during time of drought. 

The after-culture consists in hoemg the ground frequently, 
and in the destruction of weeds as soon as they make their 
appearance. In the com*se of a fortnight or three weeks after 
transplanting, the earth should be drawn up to the stems in 
such manner as to form a kind of shallow basin around each. 
Broccoli will not flourish unless it receive considerable atten- 
tion from the gardener. It is much annoyed, and oftentimes 
destroyed, by insects ; the attacks of which must be guarded 
against by the use of snufF, charcoal, ashes, air-slacked lime, 
etc., sprinkled upon the plants when they are wet with dew or 
water from a watering pot. Tiie earliest heads of the open- 
air sowing will be of a suitable size for the kitchen in Sep- 
fceuib'^-r or October; and, in favorable seasons, a regulai- supply 



112 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

may be expected from that time until the coming of hard 
frost. 

In the Southern states, the winter is mild enough for the 
plants to remain undisturbed in the open garden, where they 
will continue in bearing until April. In this part of the coun- 
try, in the latitude of New- York, some protection is necessary. 
The plants are taken up, at the commencement of cold 
weather, and set in trenches, with the stems buried up to the 
lower leaves. A cold frame may be set over the ridges, or 
they can be enclosed by any rough box of boards, that has a 
gentle inclination of the roof sufficient to turn off rain. Boards 
or shutters may be used for the roof, instead of hot-bed sashes. 
"When the frost becomes severe, throw some loose straw over 
the plants. In mild, pleasant days, the covering should be 
wholly or partially removed, for the admission of fresh air. 
In this way, fine heads can be gathered from time to time 
during the winter and spring. The pi'otection ought to be 
gradually removed wlien the weather becomes warm. Or, 
the plants can be set out in a shed, or in a light, dry cellar, 
without the cold frame. Frozen heads should be covered up, 
so that they may thaw slowly, by wliich means their flavor 
■R'ill be less impaired. 

For seed, — reserve a few of the best and earliest plants, 
and set them out in April. Water frequently, and wlien the 
head opens, remove all the shoots except four or five of the 
best, which will need support by a stake. The seed ripens in 
September, and ought to be perfectly dry before being beaten 
from the pods. American broccoli seed is sometimes in de- 
mand for exportation, but American gardeners generally make 
use of that which comes from England or France, while in 
England the Italian seed is preferred. 

Use. — Broccoli is not only a very pleasant, but also a 
very wholesome, vegetable. It is prepared for the table ia 



DICTIONARY. 113 

the same manner as the Caulifloweu, to 'wliicli tlie reader 
will jjlease refer. 

BRUSSELS-SPROUTS.— 5ras5ic(Z olera^ea, var. 

Still another variety of the Brassica tribe, and by many 
cultivators known as the Thousand- headed Cabbage. The stem 
is erect, often four feet high, and having on the sides a great 
nimil>er of miniature cabbage heads, each being one or two 
inches in diametej-, about the size of a large walnut The top 
of the stem mudi resembles a late Savoy, from which, indeed, 
it is thought to have originated. It is greatly esteemed on 
the coutiuent of Eui'ope — particularly in Belgium, and is now 
attracting some atteutiou in this country. 

CiFLTURE. — Tiie plants are raised from seed — an ounce be- 
ing sufficient for about twelve square yards of ground, — to be 
sown in April or May, according to tlie earliness of the season. 
Transplanting is to be performed iu June or July ; the plants 
being set iu rows, two feet apart each way. The leaves at 
the top of the stem are cut off, some tea or fifteen days before 
the sprouts aie gathered. The other details of cultivation 
correspond so much to the management of Cabbage, that, to 
avoid all unnecessary repetition, we refer the reader to that 
vegetable. 

For seed, — cut off the top of the stem, and permit the 
flower-stalks to come from the little sprouts only. Great care 
is required to prevent intermixture with other varieties. Where 
this cannot be avoided, it is the best plan to purchase the 
yearly supply of seed from an honest seedsman. 

Use. — T!ie tops are said to be of very excellent flavor 
while the sprouts are eaten as winter greens. It is yet an un- . 
settled question, whether the sprouts are improved by being 
10* 



114 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

touched with frost before tliey are gathered. Tliey commence 
ripening in autumn, and continue in season for the table 
throughout the winter. 

To boil. — Place the sprouts in a vessel of clear water, and 
let them remain for one hour. They ought to be washed 
clean from dirt and insects. Tlien boil them until they become 
quite soft, when they are to be drained, and stewed with cream 
or floured butter. Season with pepper and salt, or serve to 
the table with some kind of sauce. 

BURNET. — Poteruim San^iisorba. 

A hardy perennial, the young leaves of which taste and 
smell somewhat like cucumbers. It is not much cultivated, 
and only a few plants are required for the use of a common- 
sized family. 

Culture.— Bumet gi"ows upon the poorest class of soils 
which abound in calcareous matter. It may be propagated 
either by seed, or by partings of the roots. The seed is sown 
in early spring, soon after the frost leaves the ground, in drills 
about twelve inches apart, and not over half an inch deep. 
When the plants are three inches high, they must l>e thinned 
out to distances of eight or ten inches in the drill. The roots 
can be planted in autumn, in the bed where they are lo re- 
main, and water ought to be applied occasionally until they 
obtain a firm foothold. The hoe should be frequently used, 
to keep the weeds in subjectiMi ; and the stems of the plants 
are to be cut down, whenever a growth of young leaves is de- 
sired. At autumn, the decayed stalks should be removed, and 
the surface di'essed with a little old manure. The bed must 
be renewed as frequently as oice in every half dozen years. 

Jf'or seed, — it is only necessary to permit a plant to throw 
ijp its flower-stalks. An abundance of seed will be matured 
in autumn. 



■DICTIONARY. 115 

Use. — On account of their warm, pleasant taste, the tender 
leaves are put in salads, soups and cool tankards. Tliey are 
principally used by the French. We assure the reader, that 
there are many other plants more worthy of cultivation in a 
common family garden. 

CABBAGE. — Brassica oleracea, var. 

The history of the cabbage family forms one of the most 
interesting chapters in vegetable physiology. The several 
varieties of borecole, broccoh, Brussels-sprouts, cauliflower, 
and the common cabbage, are all derived, by difference of 
soil and cultivation, or chance intermixture, from the Brassica 
oleracea of Europe. Of aU classes of culinary vegetables the 
Brassica genus seems to be the most ancient, as well as the 
most extensive. Dr. Lindley observes, that among nearly one 
thousand species scattered over the face of the world, all are 
harmless, and many highly useful. The Brassica oleracea is 
familiarly known in England by the name of Sea-colewort. It 
may be found growing on the cliffs in various parts of the 
southern coast, and few persons would suspect its having been 
the parent of so numerous and important a progeny. It bears 
but few leaves, weighs scarce half an ounce, and is far from 
being acceptable to the palate. Cabbage was a favorite vege- 
table with the Romans, and they probably introduced it into 
all those countries wliich they subjugated in war : in this way 
it might have been carried to Britain, whence it has been 
transmitted to America. Of the 'whole family, no member is 
more generally esteemed than the garden or field cabbage, 
which, witliout doubt, derived its name from the Latin 
word for head — caput. It is cultivated in large quantities in 
the neighborhood of cities, where it can be sold at such prices 
as to afford an ample profit. The varieties belonging to the 
garden are numerous, and of these the following may be con- 
eidered a select list, viz: — the Early Dwarf, — the Early 



llg GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

York, — the Early Battersea, — the Early Wellington, — the 
Early Vatiack, — the Large York, — the Large Sugarloaf, — the 
Bergerc, — the Drumhead, — the Curled Savoy, — the Drumhead 
Savoy, — and the Red Dutch. The second named is among 
the best of the early kind, maturing early and having a very 
fine flavor ; the eighth is esteemed for making sauer kraut ; the 
ninth is extensively raised for exportation to a southern market ; 
and the last is used for pickling purposes. 

CuLTUEE. — Although the cabbage can be grown on any 
richly manured soil, yet a deep, mellow loam, inclining to 
clay, is to be preferred. The root is long, and needs a light, 
open subsoil. No vegetable is more benefited by a large 
supply of manure, because, as a general thing, " the richer the 
ground, the more luxuriant will be the growth, and eaiiier the 
•crop." The situation ouglit to be free and open. 

The time for sowing must always be regulated by the 
time when the crop is wanted. It has become common of 
late years to set out early plants in the spring, and the heads 
will be of a proper size for cutting, several days sooner than those 
from the first sowing in the open air. The best mode of ob- 
taining these plants, is to sow the seed somewhere about the 
middle of September. One ounce of seed will yield from three 
to four thousand plants. The best varieties for this sowing are, 
the Early and I^arge Yorks, the Battersea, and the Vanack. 
The seed can be spread broadcast, or put in drills ; — we prefer 
the latter plan, for its greater neatness and convenience of culti- 
vation. If the Aveather be dty, the bed ought to be in rather 
a shaded situation, that the germs may not suffer from the 
hot sun. Level the surface, and press it down lightly by the 
spade or roller, or by walking upon a board. Give water in 
moderate quantities, in case the sowing shall not be followed 
bv showers. Vegetation may be somewhat accelerated by a 
thin laj/er of straw. In about a week, the plants will make 
their appearance, when a little soot should be spread over 



DICTIOXARY. 117 

them, to prevent the attacks of insects. The -waterings 
may be continued every second or third evening during dry 
weather. 

In tlie latter part of October, it will be necessary to re- 
move the plants to then- winter quarters. Tlie best plan of 
protecting them is by a cold frame, which is nothing but a 
common hot-bed frame without heat, — it being set upon the 
bare ground, instead of upon a heap of dung. In the want of 
this, a cheap box can be made in a few minutes time, and at 
a very trifling expense. Take two boards, and set them up 
edgewise, six feet apart, in such manner that the north one 
shall be some six or seven inches higher than the other. By 
the addition of end boards, sloping down to the front side, you 
will have a frame six feet wide, and of any desired length. 
The boards can be supported in their places, by short posts . 
driven firmly into the ground, and the earth should be banked 
up on the outside, to prevent the admission of water or frost. 
Set the plants quite thick in the frame or box, as the case 
may be, with the assistance of a small-pointed dibble. As 
soon as the weather becomes cold, cover them with plank or 
shutters, which are to be raised for the purpose of admitting 
liglit and air, on every clear, pleasant day, wlien there is no 
danger of hard frost. This is indispensable, for without such 
attention, the plants will prove of little value. Wlien the dep- 
redations of mice or moles are discovered, it may be well to 
place a little arsenic, mixed with Indian meal, in some place 
where the trespassers will find it readily. 

Another plan for protecting the plants through the winter, 
will find favor with some readers on account of its simplicity. 
It is often practiced by market gardeners. A piece of ground 
is thrown up into high ridges, about two feet apart, and run- 
ning nearly east and west. By the middle of October, the 
plants are set out at distances of one foot from eaoli other, on 
the south side of these ridges, so that they will be shielded 
from nortlierly blasts, while enjoying a full exposure to the sua 



J18 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

When the weather is severely cold, straw, brush or corn- 
stalks, are to be laid across the ridges, and removed in the lat- 
ter part of March, or the begiiuiing of April. The ground is 
then to be gradually levelled by the hoe. In mild winters, 
this method succeeds very well, and the maturity of the crop 
is thereby hastened several days. 

Where the seed has not been sown in autumn, and early 
plants are desired, they must be raised in the latter part of 
winter. A few can be brought forward in boxes, or pots, set 
upon the sill of a warm window ; or, a large number can be 
forced on a small hot bed, with a moderate degree of heat — 
as described in the article on " Forcing Vegetation." Air is 
to be admitted, whenever the external temperature will per- 
mit; and the sashes may even be slightly opened in a mild 
night, so that the plants can get gradually hardened for their 
removal 

In spring, as soon as the weather becomes settled, trans- 
planting may be commenced. Dig and manure the s(;il prop- 
erly, and dibble holes for the reception of the plants. The 
rows may be from twelve to thirty inches apart, according to 
the varieties cultivated ; the Early York, for instance, can be 
grown in rows only one foot distant from each other, while the 
large Drumhead requires at least double that space. Raise 
the plants carefully upon a trowel, and set them with the 
balls of earth attached, in the holes previously prepared. Put 
the largest plants by themselves, that the maturity of the crop 
may be regular, and that as soon as one part of the ground is 
cleai'ed, it may be immediately appropriated to something 
else. When the plants are pulled by hand, or taken up by 
the spade, instead of the trowel, it must be done gently, to 
prevent tlie loss of the fibrous roots. We are accustomed to dip 
each root into a semi-fluid mass of cow-dung and water, that 
the dirt may adhere to it. After it is placed in the hole, the 
earth is to be brought up in close c(»ntact with it, by a dex- 
terous thrust of tln! dibble, or a sharp-pointed shingle. Keep 



DICTIONARY, 119 

the soil well cultivated, and from time to time draw a little up 
around the stem. 

For the main crop, ■vv'hich is intended for autumn and "winter 
use, sow the seed at any time between the middle of April and 
the middle of May. Tlie Bergen, the Dfumhead, the Curled Sa- 
voy, the Drumhead Savoy, and the Red Dutch, are all good va- 
rieties for the purpose. The plants can be removed to their per- 
manent location in six or eight weeks from tlie time of sowing. 
The operation ou^ht to be performed just after the ground has 
been freshly stirred, and in damp, cloudy weather, when tliere is 
a probability of rain. In a dry time, a regular application of 
water, botli before and after every removal, will much assist 
the roots in becoming established. In our own garden, we 
make use of the vine-shield, to prevent the tops being injured 
by the heat. 

The cabbage is attacked by several kinds of vermin. 
When cultivated on the same spot for a number of years, the 
root is often found covered with little knobs; they are sup- 
posed to be caused by a burrowing grub, and the usual reme- 
dies are, a rotation of crops, deep tillage, and a change of ma- 
nures. The beetle, or fly, devours young plants as they 
appear above ground, and so voracious is it, that the gardener 
not unfrequently finds himself obliged to repeat the sowing two 
or three times. Burning brush or straw upon the ground, im- 
mediately before sowing the seed, is a very good preventive, 
As soon as the plants appear, they can be dusted with soot, 
Eishes, air-slacked lime, etc., when wet with dew, or water from 
a pot. Or, a hen having a brood of chickens, can be confined in 
the neighborhood of the bed, and the little chicks will destroy 
thousands of the agile insects. 

The leaves are sometimes attacked by caterpillars, which 
must be picked off by hand ; and are occasionally infested 
with aphides, or lice, which have a strong antipathy to soap 
suds. Tlio cut- worm eats off the stem at the surface of the 
ground, and buries itself by the root, upon the appearance of 



120 GARDExXER'S TEXT'BOOK. 

tlie sun. Whenever a plant is found cut in this manner, search 
sliould be immediately made at the root, and the grub will 
generally be found there, enjoying a nap after its early break- 
fast. As a preventive, some gardeners wrap around each stem, 
at the time of its being transplanted, a piece of writing paper, 
or a burdock or walnut tree leaf; while others dip it into com- 
mon fish oil, which gives it an odor somewhat disagreeable to 
vermin. Tlie vine-shield proves an excellent protection, and 
has the further merit of advancing the crop. It must be the 
aim of the cultivator to hasten the growth of the plants as 
much as possible, in order that they may be the sooner out of 
danger. For more particular directions upon this important 
subject, reference must be made to the article called " De- 
struction OF Vermin." 

The after-culture is simple, but very essential. It consists 
in stirring the soil frequently with the hoe, that every weed 
may be checked in its groAvth, and that the plants may expe- 
rience less inconvenience from drought. Every hour's labor 
with this effective implement, adds greatly to the value of the 
crop. The experiment of Curwen with cabbages, detailed on a 
previous page, is full of instruction to tlie gardener, showing 
what are the effects of keeping the surface open to atmospheric 
influences. 

Cabbages are preserved through the winter in several dif- 
ferent ways. They may be set in ridges, in some dry part of 
tlie garden, with tlie dirt drawn up close to the lower leaves, 
and covered with straw, or a roof of coarse boards. The heads 
are cut off as wanted for use, while the stumps will, tlie next 
spring, produce fine greens for boiling. Or, the cabbages may 
be set head downwards in a trench, and covered with earth 
banked up like the roof of a house; they will be found, in 
ppring, white, delicate and crispy. They will even grow while 
in their winter quarters, and the half-formed, almost Avorthlesa 
heads which were buried in aijtumn, get to be of quite a 
respectable size before they are disinterred. We know of no 



DICTIONARY. 121 

plan better than the one last mentioned. If heads are "vvanted 
during time of frost, they can be taken up witii the assistance 
of the crowbar and spade. 

For seedy — plant out, in spring, some of the finest heads, 
or even some of the best stumps, which will bear abundantly. 
It should be borne in mind, how liable to intermixture are all 
the members of the Brass lea family, and that pure seed cannot 
be raised, if two or more varieties are suffered to bloom in the 
vicinity of each other. Support the stems by small stakes, and 
gather the seed before it has an opportunity to scatter itself 
upon the ground. 

Use. — The merits of cabbage as an article of food are so 
conspicuous, that it is a universal favorite, especially among 
the laboring classes of the community. "It is raised at a small 
expense, and may be had in season, for a period of several 
months. It is much relished by many stomachs, but its use by 
persons of weak constitution, or quiet habits, is attended with 
bad effects. Tlie modes in which it is prepared for the table 
are four, viz. : sliced raw, pickled, salted, and boiled ; they 
vary m.uch in respect to tlieir wholesomeness and digestibility. 
The first, known as " cold slaugh," is simply raw^ cabbage, 
sliced thin, and eaten with cold vinegar. It forms a grateful 
addition to different meats. 

21) pickle— The red cabbage is preferred for pickling pur* 
poses. Tear off the loose outside leaves, cut the heads into 
quarters, and lay the pieces in a keg, with a good sprinkling of 
salt upon each layer. After they have remained nearly a 
week, turn upon them hot spiced-vinegar ; one ounce of mace, 
and one ounce of pepper-corns and cinnamon being put with a 
gallon of the vinegar. To make the cabbage tender, the vine- 
gar should be drawn off, and returned scalding hot, at least 
half a dozen times. 

Sniicr Kraut — is much eaten by our German population, and 
by them considered very wholesome. The soundest heads are 
il 



122 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

selected, and sliced fine. A layer, six inches deep, is put at the 
bottom of the barrel, sprhikled with a handful of salt, and 
rammed down by a heavy pestle. "When the barrel is filled 
by these successiv^e layers, a cover is laid on the cabbage, and 
loaded with heavy stones. In four or five days' time, all fer- 
mentation will have subsided, and the kraut is then fit for use. 
It is eaten cold, or warm^ed, with the addition of a little vinegar. 
To ho'il. — 'Remove the outer leaves, and cut the head into 
quarters. Boil them in the same pot with a piece of corned- 
beef, or by themselves with a little salt in the water. Do not 
take them up until they become quite tender. Dr. Paris has 
suggested that the water be changed once, in order to extract 
the essential oil, which is so offensive to the nostrils, and is, 
moreover, believed to be somewhat hurtful to the system. 

Capsicum.— /See PEPPER. 
CARDOON.— (Tj/nccra carduncuhcs, 

Tliis hardy perennial is a species of artichoke, a native of 
Candia, and found growing wild in the southern part of France. 
The stem rises to the height of four or five feet, and the leaves 
spread out widely. It was introduced into England in the 
year 1658, about a century later than the artichoke. It is 
thought highly of, in various places on the continent of Europe, 
but has not been extensively received into favor either in Eng- 
land or in this country. 

CuLTURK. — A light, rich, deep and mellow loam is best 
adapted to the wants of this vegetable. The situation ought 
to be open, and free from the influences of trees. The seed^- 
(Mie ounce being allotted for six hundred plants, — is sown in 
the latter part of April, and covered about half an inch deep. 
When tlie plants become strong, thin them out in the bed to 
distances of five iuclies, that they may have ample room to 
Btrcngthen themselves for the process of transplanting, which 



DICTIONARY. 123 

is to be performed in six or eight weeks after the date of 
sowing. 

In setting them out in their final quarters, it is well to trim 
off the loose leaves, and to shorten the roots. Put them in 
rows, four feet apart each Avay. Water must be applied abun- 
dantly, not only at this time, but afterwards until the roots 
become firmly established. The ground should be kept mel- 
low, and free from weeds, by the occasional use of the hoe. 
By the commencement of October, the leaves will be of a suit- 
able size for blanching. Select a dry day, and, after pulling 
off those on the outside which are decayed, gather up the re- 
mainder in a regularly shaped bunch, and wind around it mat- 
ting or hay -bands for about two-tliirds of its height above the 
ground. Then draw the earth up around this coveruig, so care- 
fully that none may reach the ribs of the leaves, to cause them 
to decay. The plants can be taken up as wanted, whenever 
they become sufliciently blanched, and may be kept in perfec- 
tion through the winter by a simple covermg of dry litter. 

For seed, — permit a few plants to remain unblanched, and 
guard them against the effects of frost, by a covering of litter- 
or mats. The flowers will open in the following July, 

Use. — The edible parts are the stalks and midribs of the 
leaves, after they have been blanched in the manner above 
described. They are used either in the form of a salad, or 
stewed, or put into soups. They are not thought very nutri- 
tious, and are chiefly valued on the table as making a variety 
of dishes, 

CAKROT. — Daucus carota. 

Believed to have been introduced into Europe from the 
island of Crete. It was carried to England by the Flemish 
refugees, during tlie reign of Elizabeth, and the leaves were 
then used by ladies iff their head-dresses at evening parties. 



124 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

The root of the wild carrot is white and small, as well as 
dry and strong-flavored; which fact illustrate.'^ the remarka- 
ble imprt)verueut that has been effected m our commim escu- 
lents, by cultivation for a long series of years. It is now, 
withjustice, considered one of the most important root crops 
of both the farm and the garden. The best vai-ieties are 
thought to be the following : — the Early Horn., decidiully the ear- 
liest, but smaller than, and not as profitable as, the Long Orange, 
■which is, therefore, best adapted for the main crop. There 
are also several other kinds worthy of notice ; among the 
principal of which, are — the Altringham, — and the Long 
Surrey. 

Culture. — The most favorable soil for the carrot is a rich 
and mellow sandy loam. It should be spaded at least two 
feet deep, and finely pulverized. If not thus prepared, the 
roots will be found short and forked, instead of long and 
cylindrical. Should the ground not have been left in good 
condition by the previous crop, the autumn is the best time 
for th.i application of manure, especially if it be rank and un- 
fermented. The space allotted for the bed ought to be dug 
over roughly, so as to court the action of the frost, and the 
dung buried beneath the bottom spit ; by which means, the 
Boil will become sweet and mellow by si)ring, and the roots 
will descend to the substratum in search of nutriment, instead 
of throwing out a mass of fibres near the surface. 

For the early crop, sow in a warm, sheltered border, as 
soon in March or April as the state of the ground will permit 
An ounce of seed is generally thought sufficient for a bed con- 
taining two rods. Take a clear, calm day for the labor, in 
order to secure an even distribution of the seeds, which are 
very light and liable to be blown away. As they are covered 
with hairs, cau-ing them to cling tt)gethe.*-, they should be 
briskly rubbed between the palms, and mixed with dry sand, 
BO as to separate them as much as possible. Sow rather 



DICTIONARY. 



125 



thinly in drills one foot apart. In dry weather, it is advisable 
to press tlie seeds into close contact -with the soil, by the 
roller, or by walking upon a board laid across the drills. Cover 
about half an inch tleep. 

The sowing of the main crop, intended to be drawn by the 
first of ]!Toveniber, and stored for winter use, can be delayed 
until the mirldle or latter part of May. 

The drills ought to be kept free from weeds, and the 
plants, when one or two inches high, to be thinned out to dis- 
tances of four inches. Where full-sized roots are desiied, these 
intervals sliould be of six or eight inches. To be grown in 
perfection, the carrot should not be closely crowded. Keep 
the soil in good tilth by the frequent use of the lioe. About 
the most effective implement f>r weeding or thinning out a 
drill, is the gardener's own hand. Careful treatment in the 
early stage of their growth, will have a marked effect upon 
the health of the plants ; indeed, we consider an hour at this 
period worth more than a whole day at any subsequent 
season. 

In the latter part of October, the crop having attaiaed ma- 
turity, the leaves will change color. The roots may then be 
taken up, on any dry, pleasant day, with care to avoid 
breaking or injuring them. Cut off the tops about an inch 
above the ci'owns. After the roots have been exposed to the 
sun for a few hours, that some of the surplus moisture may 
escape, they can be stored for winter use. They keep well 
when piled in layers of sand in a dry cellar or shed, or upon 
the open ground, in a large heap, to be covered with straw, 
and a foot of earth on the outside. They are tolerably hardy, 
and but little difhculty will be experienced in their preserva- 
tion. 

For seed, — set out, in spring, a few of the largest and best-' 

shaped roots, about two feet distant from each other, the 

crowns being buried a few inclies below the surface. As soon 

as the fiower-heads become brown, the seed ought to be gath- 
11* 



126 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



ered, before it has a chance to get scattered upon the ground, 
or injured bj stormy weather. Gather from the finest heads 
only, because their seed will produce the most vigorous plants. 
Dry it well before attempting to thresh it out. 

Use. — The carrot contains about six times as much nutri- 
ment as the potato, and is by physicians considered whole- 
some. It is, however, difficult of digestion when im2:)erfectly 
boiled. It is prepared for the table in several different ways, 
such as boiled plain, in a pudding, in soups, stews, etc. Its 
value in an agricultural point of view is well known. As it yields 
considerable spirit, it is somewhat employed in the distillery ; 
but, we believe that every effort to extract sugar has proved 
unsuccessful. When boiled, it makes an excellent poultice for 
foul and cancerous ulcers. A pretty ornament for the mantel- 
piece of the parlor in winter, is obtained by taking a tliin shce 
from the crown of a root, and placing it in a shallow vessel of 
water ; the leaves will soon start, and form an elegant, radiated 
tuft, which is very pleasing at that season of the year. 

To boil. — Wash the carrots, and, if they are of large size, 
split them in two. Lay the pieces in a stew-pan with the flat 
side down, and turn on sufficient boiling water to cover them, 
Boil until quite tender, when they may be peeled, and after- 
wards buttered. 

Carrot Pie. — Scrape the carrots, boil them soft, and strain 
through a sieve. To one pint of the pulp, put three pints of 
milk, six beaten cgg^, two table-spoonfuls of melted butter, the 
juice of half a lemon, with the grated rind of a whole one. 
Sweeten to the taste, and bake in a deep plate without an 
upper crust. 

2h color BuUer. — We have for a long time used carrots in 
our dairy to color winter butter. For eight pounds of butter, 
grate a common sized root into cold water. After the pulp 
has remained fifteen minutes, strain it, and add the water to 
the cream before churninsf. The color of the butter will be 



DICTIONARY. 127 

like that made in summer, while the flavor will not be at all 
injured. 

CAULIFLOWER. — Brassica oleracea, var. 

" Of all the flowers in the garden," said Dr. Johnson, " I 
like the cauliflower best." It is the most curious, as well as 
the most delicately flavored, of the numerous varieties of the 
cabbage family. The white flower buds form a large, firm 
head, surrounded by long, green leaves, — being somewhat like 
a "giant rose, wrapped in a green surtout.'' Its history 
is not so well known as that of some other plants less valu- 
able in the culinary department. On its being introduced 
into England from the island of Cyprus, about the beginning 
of the seventeenth century, much attention was paid to its 
culture, by which means its appearance and character have 
been greatly improved. In our own country, it is much less 
known than its merits deserve. To show what an enormous 
size it can be made to attain under skilful management, we 
mention a single plant raised in the garden of the late Hon. 
Peter C. Brooks, Medford, Mass. The bare flower measured 
tliirty-eight inches in circumference, and weighed six pounds 
and five ounces. Its culture is attended with not a little 
anxiety and trouble, but not by any means sufficient to dis- 
courage an enterprising man from the labor. It is not one of 
the fancy vegetables, andwe think it ought to occupy a prom- 
inent place in every garden that is worthy of the name. 
ITiere are two sub-varieties, viz. : — the Early, — and the Late^ 
or Large, — which will afford a succession of crops. 

Culture. — For the early crop, the seed — one ounce of which 
will afford between three and four thousand plants, — should 
be sown in the middle of September, in the manner directed 
for Cabbage. If the weather be dry, a little straw kept upon 
the bed until the seed has sprouted, and, subsequently, an 
occasional watering, will prove of great advantage. When the 



128 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

plants have acquired a height of two or three inches, they 
must be thinned out to distances of four inches, so that they 
may acquire a good, strong growth before cold weather. 
About the first of October, a piece of ground is to be selected 
fijr tlie cold frame. It ought to be in a warm, sheltered situa- 
tion, spaded deep, and heavily manured. After being laid 
into a bed of suitable size, the surface should be finely pulver- 
ized and raked smooth. In the course of a week, the frame 
is to be placed over this bed, with a bank of earth upon the 
outside, in order to prevent sudden alterations of temperature 
Avitliin. When the ground becomes settled, take up the plants 
from the seed bed, by means of a trowel, and set them in the 
frame about f )ur inches asunder. Give a gentle sprinkling of 
water, but do not attempt putting on the sashes or shutters 
until the weather actually demands it. The longer it can be 
delayed with safety, the stronger and healthier will be the 
plants. During very severe weather, the further protection of 
mats or straAV will be necessary, but, to prevent a weak, 
spindling growth, air must be freely given in every clear 
day. There is much more danger of injury from close con- 
finement, than from a moderately low temperature. 

Where such accommodations cannot be afforded, and early 
plants are desired, recourse must be had to a hot-bed, made 
somewlierc about the beginning of February. Should they 
come up too thick, they ought to be thinned out to distances 
of four inches, and the surplus ones can, if desired, be set in 
another bed. The leading direction for the management of 
the frame, is simply to keep the heat at such a degree that the 
stems and leaves will have a bright green color. To effect 
this, a good supply of light and fresh air are required at all 
times when the weather will admit of the sashes being raised. 

In the middle of spring, or as soon as the gardener deems it 
prudent, preparations must be made for removing a portion of 
these early plants from the cold frame, or hot-bed, to the open 
ground. The soil should be rich and mellow. In order to 



DICTIONAHY. 



129 



secure a succession of crops, two beds may be selected ; one 
liavin^ a warm, southera exposure, with shelter on the north- 
west, and the other in the open compartment. In taking 
the plants from the frame, some of the very be-<t ought be left 
standing, in rows about eighteen inches apart each way. By 
the protection of mats in cold days and nights, together with 
extra care in their cultivation, these will come to maturity 
much earlier than those which are reitioved. The trowel is a 
very valuable implement for the work of transplanting, as the 
roots can be taken up with slight injury. The balls of earth 
may be set out at distances of eighteen or twenty inches. If 
the plants in the bed having the southern aspect, are covered 
with hand-glasses, flower-pots, vine-shields, or even common 
wooden boxes, durmg cool, frosty weather, in maturing they 
will succeed those left in the frame, and be several days in 
advance of those in the open compartment. By a little 
management like this, the cauliflower season can be much ex- 
tended, and a result so desirable is well worth the gardener's 
serious attention. 

In case the reader cannot raise plants in autumn or winter, 
and is unable to obtain them from some more fortunate neisrh- 
bor, or a nurseryman, he must be content with a late crop. 
The seed is to be sown from about the middle of April to the 
beginning of May, and the plants, when four or five inches 
high, are to be set out like cabbages, in rows two feet apart 
each way. From unfavorable weather, the crop is somewhat 
uncertain. 

The hills for the cauliflower ought to be hollowed upon 
the top, like a shallow cup or basin, that they may be better 
able to collect moisture. The thorough and frequent use of 
the hoe is very essential. When the season is dry, the plants 
need artificial watering at least every other day. They ought 
not to suffer from • the drought, — a circumstance that will 
be indicated by a drooping of the leaves, reuiinding the gar- 
dener of his negligence. The head, which it will be remem- 



130 GARDEXER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

bered is the edible part, aud esteemed only for its tendernes3 
and delicacy, can be finely blanched by bending over the 
leaves, or tying tliem loosely together with a string. Where 
the whole crop threatens to come to maturity at the same 
time, a portion may be retarded by the same method. In 
every season, the cultivator must carefully guard against the 
extremes of heat and cold, as well as of drought and moisture. 

Late plants, which al the approach of cold weatlier have 
no appearance of blossoming, are sometimes removed to a 
"warm cellar, where they will perfect themselves as if in the 
open ground, and contiime in season throughout the greater 
part t)f winter. The operation is best performed on a damp, 
cloudy day, and the roots should be taken up witli large lumps 
of dirt attached. The heads will gradually acquire a good size, 
and be equally good with those taken from the hot-bed. 

For seed. — Set out, in spring, some of the finest-looking 
heads, — the flower-buds of which are firm and close. Support 
the stems, and gather the best seed as it ripens. As with all 
the members of the Brassica family, particular care must be 
taken to prevent intermixture. We would refer the reader to 
our article on " Saving Seed," to be found in the first part of 
the book, for some valuable hints on this subject. 

Use. — We have already quoted the remark of Dr. John- 
son about tlie cauliflower. As far as our own opinion may be 
worth anything, we do not hesitate to place this in the very 
front rank of culinary vegetables. Nothing is more inviting 
to our palate than a good head, which is brought to the table 
well cnoked and properly seasoned. It is wholesome and 
nourishing, especially for invalids, and makes a very orna- 
mental dish. 

To boll. — The head !>hould be cut with most of the sur- 
rounding leaves attached, which are to be trimmed oft' when 
the time comes for cooking. Let it lie half an hour in salt and 
water, and then boil it in fresh water for fifteen or twenty 



DICTIONARY. 131 

minutes, until a fork will easily enter the stem. Milk and 
water are better than water alone. Serve with sauce, gravy, 
or melted butter. 

To pickle. — Place the heads in a keg, and sprinkle them 
liberally with salt. Let them remain thus for about a week, 
when you may turn over them scalding hot vinegar, prepared 
with one ounce of mace, one ounce of peppercorns, and one 
ounce of cloves to every gallon. Draw off the vinegar, and 
return it scalding hot, several tmies until the heads become 
tender. 

CELERIAC. — Apium rapaceum. 

Frequently called the Turnip-rooted Celery, to which order 
of plants it belongs. It is much esteemed in Germany, but is 
not often found in American gardens. 

Culture. — Sow the seed, in drills ten inches apart, at dif' 
ferent times during the spring months, in order to obtain a 
succession of crops. The seed germinates slowly, and in dry 
weather, ought to receive a moderate application of water 
every evening until the plants become established. Keep the 
ground light, and free from weeds. When the plants are six 
inches high, they can be removed to their final quarters. The 
soil of this bed should be mellow and fertile, and laid off into 
rows sixteen inches apart each way. At this time, and sub- 
Bequently during dry weather, water is to be given freely at 
least every other day, — the quantity to be increased with the 
growth of the roots. When the plants are nearly full grown, 
it is customary to earth up the bulbs to the height of four or 
five inches. In about a month, they will be found sufficiently 
blanched for use. They may be preserved in sand through 
the winter. 

For seed. — See the directions given for Celery. 

Use.— The roots may be boiled tender, cut into thin slices, 



132 GAUDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

and put in soup or meat pie-^. Or, after being' scraped and 
sliced, they may be boiled very tender, and then stewed, for 
four or live minutes, in just milk enough to cover them ; after 
which they are to be buttered and seasoned with salt. 

CELEBY. — Aplum graveolens. 

No vegetable noticed in this volume has been more strikingly 
improved by cultivation, than our common garden celery. It 
seems to have been derived from a rank, worthless weed, 
known by the name of Smallage, which is found growing in 
marshy places, and on the banks of ditches, in Great Britain. 
The two plants are very dissimilar in their general appearance 
and habits, and while one is a favorite on the table of every 
epicurcj the other is shunned as poisonous and disagreeable to 
the taste. The long, crisp stalks, and the mild, delicate flavor 
of the improved celery, remind the gardener liow much has 
been done, and liow much can hereafter be done, in his occu- 
pation, by skill and perseverance. Every such fact should 
stimulate him to increased diligence and enterprise. There 
are several varieties, the best of which are, pi'obably, — the 
Whits Solid, — and the Red Solid. Many other kinds to be 
found in catalogue'^, are highly recommended for their mon- 
strous size ; a quality that seems to depend altogether upon 
a favorable soil and unremitted attention. 

Culture.— -The celery prefers a soil that is deep, light, 
moist, and rich in vegetable mould, but not rank from the ap- 
plicatiou of fresh dung. Tiie situation ought to be open, and 
free from the influence of trees. 

Earl'y plants are often raised on a small hot-bed, made 
somewhere about the first of March. Only enough heat ia 
required, to bring them forward to a suitable size for removal 
to the open ground, as soon as the weather will permit. For 
this reason, the heap of dung need not be over eighteen or 



DICTIONARY. 133 

twenty-four inches in height, and tlie depth of mould should 
be just sufficient to prevent injury to the roots by the heat 
and rank steam. Water is to be applied in moderate quan- 
tities, shade given during the middle of tlie day, and air ad- 
mitted freely in all pleasant weather. When the plants are 
four inches high, remove them to a bed of rich soil having a 
warm situation. Here they are to be set in rows, four or five 
inches apart each way. They should be watered and shaded 
as before, and at night receive the protection of mats or cold 
frames until all danger of frost be over. In this place, they 
will acquire size and strength for their final removal. 

The principal sowing may be delayed until the first fort- 
night of April. The best position for the seed bed is a warm, 
sheltered border, but having a northern aspect so as to be free 
from the powerful effects of the noon-day sun. The ground shoul d 
be finely pulverized, as the seed is so small that one ounce 
will afford ten thousand plants. We prefer sowing in drills 
six inches apart, and perhaps one quarter of an inch deep. In 
very dry weather, it is advisable to give a little water both 
before and after germination commences. When the plants 
are three or four inches high, they are to be thinned out to 
four inches apart in the row, and those pulled up to be set in 
another b^d at the same distances. Water should be given 
until the roots become established. 

Preparations for transplanting the early crops into trenches, 
must be made in the beginning of June, at the time when the 
leaves are ab.)ut eight inches in height. Tlie removal of the 
principal crop may be delayed some four or five weeks later. 
As before remarked, the celery prefers a rich soil, with an 
open exposure. The trenches should be at least two and a 
half feet apart, ten inches wide, and fifteen inches deep. That 
they may be straight, it is a good way to stretch the line, and 
to mark out the sides by thrusting down the spKle. previt)us 
to digging the earth, which is thrown equally on either hand. 
In the bottom of each trench is to be placed four inches of 

12 



134 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Well rottdd dung, together with about four inches of good 
loam, the jvhole being intimately mixed by the spade. The 
plants are carefully taken up from the nursery beds, and have 
their roots and leaves trimmed, besides being divested of 
loose, straggling leaves and side shoots. Tliey are then set 
six inches apart, in a row through the middle of each trend). 
Wliere they have been taken up by the trowel, with balls of 
earth attached, they seldom fail to do vrell. Tlie work is 
most successful when performed in an evening, or in a damp, 
cloudy day. A bountifal supply of water should now be 
given, and, subsequently, from time to time until the roots be- 
come accustomed to the change of location. During the day, 
in order to prevent injur}' by the hot sitn, the trenches must be 
covered, or rather shaded, by boards, brush or corn-stalks ; the 
gardener being careful to remove everything of the kind upon 
the approach of evening, that the regular deposite of dew may 
not be interrupted. 

The soil ought to be often stirred by a small hoe, or a 
sharp-pointed stick. When tlie plants have attained a heiglit 
of ten or twelve inches, it will be time to commence " earthing 
up," as it is called. On a dry day, when the leaves are free 
from moisture, they are to be gathered together in the left 
hand, and held in an upright position, while the right one is 
engaged in drawing some of the fine soil up against them. At 
first, this ridge must be slight, and have the top rather hol- 
lowed, so as to catch the rain. The dirt should be rendered 
very fine before it is brought in contact with the steins, and 
drawn up in such a manner, that none gets upon the centre 
shoots to cause decay. This process is to be repeated every 
ten days or fortnight while the plants continue growing, and 
the quantity of dirt drawn up at a time to be gj'adually in- 
creased, until only about six inches of the leaves are exposed 
above the ridge. The stalks will be good for the table, when 
blanched to the height of twenty inches. With the crop in- 
tended for winter and spi-ing use, the " earthing up " process 



i 



DICTIONARY. I35 

must be conitnenced rather later in the season, because, when 
performed in exti-eme hot weather, premature decay is apt to 
follow. In taking up the crop, dig with the spade quite down 
to the roots, so that the stalks can be raised without being 
broken, whicli Avould much diminisli the beauty of their ap- 
pearance upon the table. 

Celery may be kept in the open air through the winter, 
by having bt)ards, nailed together like the roof of a house, 
placed over the trenches. Another way, is to take it up, when 
frosty weather sets in, and put it in a pit in some dry, elevated 
part of the garden. It is placed in rows about three inches 
apart, with the tops of the leaves just above the surface, and 
covered with a thick layer of straw to keep out frost, and a 
roof of old boards to shed the rain. A large bank of earth 
should be on the outside. By removing the straw, the 
stalks can be dug up with ease, at any time when they may be 
wanted for use. The plants are sometimes packed iu a box of 
sand, and kept in the cellar ; they will continue good and fresh 
for several weeks, but afterwards become wilted, losing that 
delightful crispness for which they are esteemed. 

FvT seed. — The cultivator must either leave a few of the 
best plants — those wliich are solid and of a middUng size, — in 
the place where grown, or set them out in the spring, in rows 
two feet apart each way. Tlie loose, hanging leaves and side 
shoots, should be previously removed. The seed-stalks, if not 
supported by stakes, will be likely to suffer injury from violent 
winds. Water may be apphed with advantage after the flow- 
ers have opened, at least as often as every second or third eve- 
ning. The seed ought to be perfectly ripe before being 
gathered, and be stored in a cool, dry apartment. 

Use. — The celery is a grateful addition to the winter table. 
Its tender, sweet and crispy stalks are general favorites. They 
are eaten as a salad, or simply with salt, or used in soups, stews, 
and sauces. They should always be freed from sand and dirt, 



136 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

before being carried to the dining-room. In Italy, tlie unblanch- 
ed leaves, or seeds when bruised, are considered excellent for 
flavoring soups. 

Celery stance, for boiled fowls, <i'c. — Wash the stalks, and cut 
them into thin slices about two inches long. Stew them till . 
tender, in a little weak gravy or water. Season with pow- 
dered mace, pepper and salt. Then add tlie juice of a lemon, 
and thicken with a piece of butter which has been kneaded iu 
flour. 

To stew. — Strip off the outer leaves of six heads, and cut 
the blanched parts of the stalks into lengths of about four 
inches. Stew the pieces in broth until they become quiie ten- 
der, when you may add two table-spoonfuls of cream, together 
with a lump of floured butter. Season to the taste with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, and let the whole simmer gently for a 
few moments. 

CHERVIL. — Scandix cerefolium. 

An annual, much esteemed by the Dutch and French. It 
is a native of southern Europe, and in its aj^pearance some- 
what resembles parsley. In ancient times, it was thought to 
possess many extraordinaiw qualities, and was diligently sought 
after by the illiterate herb-doctor. In tliis country, it is seldom 
an inmate of the kitchen garden. 

Culture. — The most favorable soil for chervil, is one of 
avej'age fertility, light, and mouldy, with a free exposure. The 
seed is sown in autumn, soon after it ripens, or at almost any 
time in the following spring. It is to be barely covered, in 
drills about eight inches apart. Press down tlie surface of the 
bed, and, in dry weather, give it a gentle sprinkling of water. 
When the plants show themselves, they are to be thinned out 
to distances of eight inches in the drill. The leaves are fit for 
gathering, as soon as they are tliree inches high, and by being- 



DICTIONARY. 137 

cut down close, the stems wil] soon sprout a^ain. The ground 
ought at all times to be kept free from weeds. 

For •'iced, — some of the plants must be suffered to grow up 
without being cut. They will ripen their seed in the early 
part of summer. Keep it in paper bags through the winter. 

Use. — Apart from its medicinal properties, chervil has 
something of a reputation in the kitchen. Having a warm, 
aromatic ta^te, the young leaves are extensively used by Eu- 
ropeans in salads and soups. Two hundred years ago, it was 
written, " Chervil should be eaten with oil and vinegar, being 
first boiled, which is very good for old people that are dull 
and without courage: it rejoiceth and comforteth the heart, 
and increaseth the strength." Its influence upon the mental 
and physical foculties, is now rated at a much lower degree. 
There are many other plants which are quite as valuable as 
tliis for seasoning dishes, and are certainly much more worthy 
of cultivation. 

CHIVE. — Allium schcenoprasum. 

Tliis is a hardy perennial of Great Britain, there found 
growing in meadows and pastures. It is a member of the 
onion family. The roots are bulbous, while the leaves are 
awl-shaped, and produced in small tufts or bunches. Tlie 
flowers are white, tinged with purple. Only a few plants are 
required for a family of moderate size. 

CcLTUUE. — The chive will flourish in nearly every kind of 
soil, but prefers that which is light and rich. It may be easily 
propagated by offsets from the roots, in spring or autumn, put 
in rows ten inches apart each way. The leaves and flowers 
make quite an ornamental appearance, and, therefore, are well 
adapted for the edgings of beds. The only cultivation neces- 
sary, is to prevent their becoming choked with weeds. When 

12* 



138 GARDENER^S TEXT-BOOK. 

the leaves are wanted for use, they should be cut down close 
to the ground, and they will shortly be succeeded by a new 
growtK After the tops change color in autumn, the bulbs 
may be taken up, and stored as a substitute for the onion. 

Use. — The chive has a mixed flavor of the leek and the 
onion. It has the great advantage of earliness in spring. The 
tops, when green, are used for seasoning soups, omelettes, 
salads, etc. Many poultry breeders are accustomed to chop 
the leaves into very small pieces, to be mixed witli the food 
of young chickens, as a real or fancied preventive of disease. 
The bulbs are sometimes used hke onions. 

Corn (Indian).— /See INDIAN CORN. 

CORN SALAD.— Fedia olitoria. 

This annual, a native of Europe, is also known by the 
names of Fetticus and Lamb's lettuce. The term corn salad is 
probably derived from the circumstance of its being found wild 
in corn-fields, while the more popular English title of lamb's 
lettuce arises from its being a favorite food for young lambs. 
It is a pleasant herb, and is valuable for its earliness. The 
first dish placed upon the table, in the olden times, was a red 
herring set in a corn salad. 

Culture. — Sow the seed somewhere about the middle of 
September, soon after it ripens, in drills six inches apart, on a 
bed of mellow, rich soil, having an open situation. The seed 
ought to be fresh, and one ounce will be found sufficient for 
two rods of ground. The drills should be very shallow, not 
more than one quarter of an inch deep. In dry weather, the 
soil must be pressed into close contact with the seed, and an 
occasional sprinkling of water will materially hasten vegeta- 
tion. The plants may be thinned out to distances of four 



DICTIONARY. I39 

inches in the ro\^, and ought at all times to be kept free from 
the evil companionship of weeds. Late in autumn, the bed 
can be covered with a slight layer of straw, or any other stuff 
that will afford protection from frost Should the weather 
prove mild, the leaves will be in season until the next spring. 
Tlie sowing can be repeated at the beginning of March, and 
again about the first of August, or as much oftener as desired ; 
but it is believed, that these three beds, if of any reasonable 
size, will be quite sufficient for the wants of a single family. 

For seed, — it is only necessary to permit some of the plants 
to throw up their seed-stalks, a very few of which will produce 
enough for the cultivator's own wants. 

Use. — Corn salad has a mild, pleasant taste, and is much 
esteemed in England The tops are commonly eaten while 
young and tender, in the form of a salad ; but in France, it is 
eometimes dressed like spinach. In the summer season, the 
whole plant may be gathered, but, during the spring and win- 
ter months, only the outer leaves. 

CRESS. — Lepidium sativum. 

A small salad herb, of which the principal variety is 
familiarly known as Pepper-graf^R. It proves a hardy annual, 
and has been cultivated in England for over three hundred 
years; having been brought from Persia, or Cyprus, as is 
supposed, about the year 1548. 

Culture. — For the first crops, recourse must be had to a 
gentle hot-bed, built in the latter part of winter. The heat 
must be sufficient to bring the plants forward for cutting in a few 
hours' tiirie, without the growth being so rapid as to deprive 
them of their agreeable flavor. As soon as the weather will 
permit in March, seed may be sown in the open ground, in some 
warm, sheltered border. One ounce is allowed to a bed four 



140 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

feet square. Tlie surface soil should be finely pulverized, and 
laid out into shallow drills six inches apart. The seed is to be 
barely covered, and pressed down by the spade or a board. 

This open air sowiu:^ C;in be repeated every week or fort- 
night, until the arrival of cold weather. In a dry time, the 
bed ought either to be in a shaded situation, or to be protected 
from the effects of a midday sun by a thin covering of brush 
or straw. It ought also to receive occasional applicatioivs of 
■water. When the season is cold, an old hot-bed frame may 
"be called into requisition, or reliance placed upon straw and 
mats. The leaves are in perfection, wlien two or three inches 
high, and it is best to cut them down close to the ground. By 
merely taking off the tops, the roots will be induced to sprout 
again, but the second growth is inferior to the first. 

For seed, — a few rows may be left uncut, or a sowing can 
be made in spring, especially for that purpose. The flower- 
stalks will ripen in autumn. 

Use. — The leaves of cress, when young and tender, have a 
sharp taste, that is peculiarly agreeable. Tliey are most 
usually put in salads, together with chervil, lettuce, mustard* 
and plants of the like character. 

Cress (Indian).— /See INDIAN CRESS. 

Cress (Water).— 5ee WATER CRESS. 

CUCUMBER.— C*;e?«»2S satiirns. 

Tliis fruit is distinguished for its great antiquity and gen- 
eral dissemination. We are told in the Mosaic history, that 
the Israelites had enjoyed it while they were in Egypt, and 
murmured at its loss during their joumeyings through the 
■wilderness. Even at this day, it forms a principal article of 
food in many countries of the east. It is supposed to have 



DICTIONARY. 141 

been introduced into Europe from some part of the Levant. 
It was highly esteemed by the Roman?, and they cultivated 
it with great skill and success. The Emperor Tiberius had 
it in season throughout tht; whole year, by the employment of 
artificial heat In England, it has ever been a great favorite, 
and large tracts are annually devoted to its production for 
market. The poet Cowper invoked his muse, to sing the 
praises of "the prickly and green-coated gourd," and has 
given us in verse an account of its growth in the winter 
months, which, for minuteness of detail, is worthy of the pro- 
fessed gardener. 

The fruit is pleasant and agreeable to the taste ; and " as 
cool as a cucumber," has become an every-day expression of 
well understood meaning. Physicians, however, maintain that 
it has little nutritious value, and we all know that its use by 
persons of a delicate constitution, is frequently attended with 
unpleasant effects. There is a good deal of rivalry about ob- 
taining early crops, and perhaps we should say, a good deal 
of interest, as they command extraordinary prices when ex- 
posed in market. It is said, that in the London fruit-stalls, a 
dozen cucumbers will be sold in March for a guinea, while in 
August they will not bring more than a penny. There are 
many varieties, among the choicest of which we enumerate — the 
Early Short Prickly, — WieLong Prickly, — and the Long Early 
Frame. The list is small, but very select, including those 
kinds best adapted to the wants of small cultivators. The last 
one of the three, as its name implies, is most usually grown in 
the hot-bed. Some English varieties, like the Manchester 
Prize and the Nepal, have been made to attain an enormous 
size, being perhaps two feet in length, and weighing twelve 
pounds each. The cucumber flourishes in every part of the 
United States, and its popularity among all classes will be a 
sufficient apology for the extended notice given it here. 

CuLTUEE. — As iax as soil is concerned, it seems best pleased 



142 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK, 

•with a light, fresh loam ; yet it will grow vigorously, and 
yield an abundance of fruit, in almost any spot of average fer- 
tility, provided it have a good supply of heat and moisture. 
As we remarked above, it is an object with many to employ 
artificial heat, so as to bring the crop to maturity in the wii> 
ter season. This is rather a delicate process, attended with 
considerable expense and numerous discouragements ; but, if 
successfully carried througli, it speaks loudly of one's skill and 
enterprise. Most family gardeners for Avhom this little work 
is designed, are conteiit with setting out early plants in the 
spring, and sheltering them under hand-glasses ; by which 
means, they will obtain fruit several days sooner tlian tliose, 
who wait until the weather becomes mild enough for the seed 
to be sown in the open ground. Our plan requires that we 
should describe each of these three modes ; and, first, of 

The Hot-bed. — For all general directions ujwu the con- 
struction, and management of the hot-bed, the reader is refer- 
red to the article on " Forcing Vegetation," to be foubd in a 
previous part of the volume. We remind him, however, that 
the dung lie uses should be of good quality, without too large 
a proportion of litter. It should lie in a conical-shaped heap 
for ten days or a fortnight, being turned over every three or 
four days, in such manner that all portions of it may be 
equally exposed to the atmosphere. When its rankness shall 
have escaped, the straw assuming a brown color, it is to be 
immediately made into a Ixsd between three and four feet 
high, in some sheltered corner of the grounds. The different 
courses of dung must be beaten down gently with the fork, 
while the sides are occasionally combed to insure regularity of 
shape. 

After the dung lias been carried up to a proper height, 
the frame and sashes are to be placed, and the sashes kept 
close for a couple of days, to draw up the heat. The size of 
the bed depends, upon whether it may be intended merely 
for the production of young plants, that are to be removed to 



DICTIONARY. 1 43 

unotlior frame in wLich they may perfect themselves. As a 
general thing, tliey succeed best when transplanted, and, in 
that case, the first bed should be a small one, and the second 
of the largest dimensions, as being required to afford a great 
nnd long-continued warmth during the coldest part of the 
year. The next thing necessary, is to let the steam that now 
fills the frame, escape by raising the north end of the sashes 
for a few inches. This is done by the insertion of wedges. 
In the course of a weet, the dung will be in a proper 
state for the reception of the mold. If the bed be de- 
signed for nothing more than raising plants, the dirt is 
spread over the surface to the depth of five or six inches ; but, 
otherwise, it need not be deeper than three inches, except un- 
der the centre of each sash, where it is drawn up into a little 
hillock, eight inches high, and a foot in diameter." In three 
days afterward, ex;imine the soil, and, if it appeal* caked or 
burned by the heat, it must be renewed, or the seeds cannot 
be sown with safety. 

When the seedlings are to be transplanted, it is best to 
sow in small pots which are plunged in the mould ; if to re- 
main, then the seed should be put on the tops of the little 
hillocks ; but in neitlier case is it to be buried more than half 
an inch deep. Indeed, it is always a good way to have a few 
in pots, to supply any deficiencies that may occur in the hil- 
locks. At night, as well as during any tempestuous weather, 
the glass ought to be covered with mats, straw or litter, to 
prevent a violent reduction of the temperature within the 
frame. It should range between 65° and 85°, — not being 
below 65° at any time. The seeds germinate quickly, and 
when the plants are in the rough leaf, their number is to be 
reduced to three in each pot or hillock. Let them have plenty 
of light, and admit fresh air at every favorable opportunity, 
by tilting the sashes at the back of the frame. Tepid water 
should be applied to the soil whenever it appears dry : the 
most suit^able time of day for doing it is about noon. Guano- 



144 GARDENER'S.TEXT-BOOK. 

water is sometimes used with the best results. If the plants 
suffer from the heat of midday, a little straw, or a thin mat, 
spread upon the glass, will be found of great benefit. TThen 
their rough leaves attain a breadth of two or three inches, 
they are fit for being removed to the fruiting-bed, — which 13 
of large size, and has a hillock raised under each sash. Set 
them out carefully, with the balls of earth unbroken, and 
keep the glass closed until the following morning. Of course, 
care must be taken that the heat be not too violent, ana that 
the plants do not droop under the influence of the sua. A 
little water given at this time, will be gladly received by the 
roots ; and as soon as they become established, the depth of tho 
soil is to be gradually increased, until the surface is level witli 
the tops of the hillocks. 

To strengthen the vine, as well as to cause the early de 
yelopment of fruit, it is usual to " stop" the main stem, bj 
pinching off the point, as soon as four leaves are formea. 
Should the growth of the lateral branches be too luxuriant, 
they must be stopped in the same manner. They ought to be 
spread over the ground, so that they may not interfere with 
one another, and that all the foliage shall be equally exposed 
to the light. The temperature of the bed should now range 
between 75° and 95°, but on no account to be suffered to fall 
below 70°. Where the heat of the bed has dea-eased, lininorg 
must be applied to the sides successively, and banked on the 
outside with earth. Give water in moderate quantities, every 
two or three days : and admit air freely whenever the weather 
is clear and pleasant. Flowers may be expected in four or 
five weeks from the time of sowing the seed. It is necessary 
to assist nature in the impregnation of the fruit, by gently twirl- 
ing the male flowers over the females, whicb are distinguished 
by a sohd swelling at the base. "Without this care, the value 
of the crop would be much depreciated Cowper speaks of the 

'* Golden flowers, 
Blown on the summit of th' apparent fruit. 



DICTIONARY". 145 

Tliese have their sexes ! and, when summer shines, 

The bee transports the fertiUzing meal 

From flower to flower, and e'en the breathing air 

Wafts the rich prize to its appointed use. 

Not so when winter scowls. Assistant art 

Then acts in Nature's office, brings to pass 

The glad espousals, and ensures the crop." 

Fruit may be cut in fifteen or twenty days afterward, and 
where the good quality of the produce is considered of more im- 
portance than its quantity, it is well to reduce it in tlie early 
stages of its growth. Should the heat of the bed again decline, 
so as to be insufficient for the pei-fection of the crop, the old 
linings are to be taken away, and be replaced by fresh dung. 
This, as a matter of course, is not so essential in the montlis of 
March and April, as in the middle of wii;>ter. The length of 
the wliole process varies from eight to twelve weeks, accord- 
ing to tlie time of year. The same poet well describes the dif- 
ficulties which the gardener has to encounter, although some of 
our enthusiastic friends may tliink the statemeni too highly 
colored : — 

" Ye little know the cares. 
The vigilance, the labor, and the skill, 
That day and night are exercised, aiul hang 
Upon the ticklish balance of suspense. 
That ye may garnish your profuse regales 
With summer fruits brought forth by wintiy sens. 
Ten tliousand dangers lie in wait to thwart 
Tiie process. Ileat and cold, and wind, and steam, 
Moi-;ture and drought, mice, worms, and swarming flies». 
Minute as dust, and numberless, oft work. 
Dire disappointment, that admits no cure, 
And which no care can obviate; It were long — 
Too long, to tell th' expedients and the shifts^ 
Which lie tliat fights a season, so severe 
13 



146 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Devises, while he guards his tender trust ; 
And oft at last in vain." 



A small hot-bed is often used for obtaining early plants to 
be removed to the open ground. The seed is sown in pots of 
earth, or in small pieces of turf, so that the roots may suffer as 
little injury as possible from being transplanted. Every cheap 
and practical method of hastening the maturity of the crop, is 
worthy of consideration. 

211.6 Hand- Glass is useful in forwarding plants. And for 
small cultivators, we think it more important than the hot- 
bed. In the beginning of April, a small hole, say eighteen 
inches deep, and as wide as the glass to be employed, should 
be dug on a warm border having a southern exposure. Put in 
fourteen or fifteen inches of active manure, and cover that with 
six inclies of fine, rich soil, on wiiich the seeds are to be sown. 
Place a hand-glass over the hill, and, during cold days or 
nights, give the additional protection of a mat, or a layer of 
long litter. While it is desirable to preserve a high tempera- 
ture below the glass, fresh air must be admitted, in such quan- 
tities and at such times as will secure a vigorous growth, 
together with a strong, healthy green color in the plants. As 
the season advances, they ought to be gradually hardened, in 
order that they may not suffer serious inconvenience from the 
entire removal of the glass. The proper regulation of this 
matter will require a good deal of judgment, lest tiie tender 
vines experience a fatal check, from the want of that shelter 
under which they have been coaxed into a premature exist- 
ence. 

Hand-glasses are also valuable in the protection of early 
plants raised on a hot-bed, or in a warm kitchen window 
and removed to the open gi-ound before the weather becomes 
settled. We have found the vine-shield a very cheap and effi- 
cient substitute ; altliough it may be considered inferior to the 
regular hand-glass. 

■Botdng in the open air may be performed ia the latter part of 



DICTIONARY. J 47 

April, or any time during the month of May, according to the 
character of the season. Plants of very early sowings are apt 
to be cut off by a late frost. Nevertheless, it will be for one's 
interest to get the seed into the ground as soon as it can be 
done with safety. The first labor will be to mark out the liills 
at regular distances ; perhaps, five fecjt apart each way will be 
sufficient, but to allow six feet is much the better plan. They 
should be dug out to the depth of twelve or fifteen inches, with 
about the same diameter, and be partly filled with well rotted 
dung, or a compost of hen-dung, overlaid by some rich, mel- 
low loam. Sow five or six seeds in each ; at which rate, one 
ounce of seed will plant near two hundred hills. 

The attacks of the striped cucumber-bug, the flea, and other 
vermin, may be somewhat guarded against, by the use of wood- 
ashes, tobacco-dust, road-dust, charcoal-dust, air-slacked lime, 
soot, or the offensive solution of hen-dung. The war, on the part 
of the gardener, should be diligently prosecuted, by which means 
only can he expect a suitable reward for his labor. The 
^•ine-shleld is a valuable assistant, for besides preventing the 
ravages of the vermin, it greatly hastens the growth of the 
plants. "When they have attained such a size that they are no 
longer in danger, the number in each hill should be reduced to 
three, and still later in the season to two. The ground may be 
occasionally watered at evening in dry weather, with decided 
advantnge, and the hoe ought to be used so often as to keep 
the surface open, and prevent the encroachments of weeds. 
Some persons are accustomed to put a layer of straw under the 
vines, some three or four inches in depth, that they may suffer 
less injury from continued wet weather, and tliat the soil may 
be less affected by drought. 

Cucumbers intended for pickling purposes, should be 
planted sometime during the first fortnight of July. In the 
bearing season, the vines ought to be examined daily, and, in 
order to secure greater productiveness, be relieved of the fruit 
as soon as it acquires a proper size. 



148 GARDENKR-S TEXT-BOOK. 

For seed, — select some of the best fruit, and permit it to 
remain on the vine until it turns yellow. Then cut it off, and 
let it be exposed to the sun for some two or three weeks, at 
the end of which time the seed may be washed from the pulp, 
and spread out to dry. It will continue good for years, and, 
in fact, is to a certain extent improved by age. 

Use. — Cucumbers are not remarkably wholesome, and to 
persons of weak constitution are positively injurious. However 
prepared for the table, they ought always to be eaten with 
great moderation. The expressed juice is sometimes employed 
as a cosmetic, and it enters into the composition of several 
French pomades. 

To be eaten raio, — they should be freshly picked, and placed 
in a dish of clear, cold water. About fifteen minutes before 
they are wanted, pare and slice them into another dish of 
water. Just before carrying them to the table, drain off the 
water, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, atid cover with 
good vuiegar. 

To steio. — Out several large cucumbers into thick slices^ 
flour them well, and fry them in butter ; then put them into a 
saucepan, together with a tea-cupful of gravy, and season with 
salt and Cayenne pepper. Let them stew slowly for an hour, 
when they may be served hot. 

To pickle. — The best cucumbers for this purpose are small, 
green, tender and free from blemishes; and they mu;-t be re- 
moved from the vines, as soon as they acquire a proper size. 
Immediately after being picked, they should be put in a vessel 
of boiling water, and allowed to remain in it for four or five 
hours. Then put them in cold vinegar, with alum and salt in 
the proportion of a table-S[X)()nful of the first, and a tea-cupful 
of the second, to every gallon. When the time for pickling 
arrives, turn off the vinegar, and scald it. After being skiunned 
clear, it should be turned back upon tlie cucumbers when hot. 



DICTIONARY. 149 

They will be greatly improved by the addition of a few pep- 
per-corns. Tlie vinegar will require to be drawn off, and re- 
turned scalding hot, several times; if it prove weak, it ought 
to be thrown away, and fresh pi-ocured.. 

CURRANT.— i2?:6es. 

We ai'e not acquaintod with any fruit which is more gene- 
rally disseminated through the northern states, than the one 
now under notice. In some sections, it would be a difficult 
matter to find a respectable farm house that is witliout a few 
currant bushes, either disposed along the path which leads to 
the front door, or planted by the fence of the vegetable gar- 
den. It is truo, that in nine cases out of ten they receive little 
or no cultivation, — being seldom relieved of the old, barren 
wood, and not manured from one j'ear's end to another; still 
the good wife places a high estimate upon the fruit, and would 
not willingly be deprived of it. There are many reasons by 
which to account for this, such as the hardy character of the 
shrub, its free growth, and great productiveness, in addition to 
the excellent qualities of the fruit, both when freshly picked, 
and in its preserved state. 

There are several species to be found growing wild in this 
country, but those of our gardens came originally from the 
northern parts of Europe and Asia, and are largely indebted 
to the skill of the Dutch horticulturists. In Siberia, the berry 
of the black species, the R. nigrum, frequently attains tlie size 
of a hazle-nut. Botanists aver that tlie white currant, which 
by some has been considered a distinct species, the R. alburn^ 
is nothing but a variety of the red species, the R. rubrum. 
Wlien the shrub is found in its natural state, the berry is either 
black or red, of small size and poor thivor. The name of the 
fruit is said to have been derived, from the resemblance of the 
berries to the 'little Corinth grapes or raisins, which have long 

13* 



150 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

been known in commerce as currants — tlie word evidently be 
iag a corruption of Corinth. 

It seems strange that so little attention should be paid to 
the selection of the best varieties for culture, when they can 
be obtained so easily, and at such a trifling cost. They are not 
only more profitable than the common Irinds, in a pecuniary 
point of view, but their fruit is infinitely su|X'rior for domes- 
tic uses. Of the popular red sj^ecies, the fi>lh)-u'ing varieties 
raay be considered chiefly worthy of notice, viz. : — th;' Red 
Dutch, — May's Victoria. — and Itnic/hfs Sweet Red. Of the- 
white variety, the White Dutch, and the White Grape are 
\jndoubtedly the best sorts for a garden. The Ckampnr/ne is 
of a light pink color, between the Red and White Dutch ; it is 
acid, and cultivated by many as a curiosJty. Of tlie black 
species, the Comr/ian Black is nouch iiif(,'i-i(>r to the Black 
Naples. 

Culture. — An idea appt>ar3 to liave become prevalent, that 
currant bushes require neither high culture, nor attention of 
any kind. They are generally clK)ked with grass and weeds, 
of a stunted, inferior growth, full of dead wood, and producing 
fruit of the poorest description. Experience has demonstrated, 
however, that bo inmate of the garden can be more improved 
by a rich soil, and careful cultivation. 

New bushes are easily obtained by planting cuttings of the 
last year's growth. Tl:iey should be taken from tlie most 
vigorous shoots, and with a sharp knife, so as to leave no 
rough or ja^ed edges to the bark. Tliey ouglit to be about 
ten or twelve inches in length, and, when they are to be trained 
as standards, to have the buds on the lower half smoothly cut 
out, in order to prevent tlie appearance of troublesome suckers. 
Plant the cuttings, after being thus prepared, about six inches 
deep, and at least two feet apart, in early spring, or just be- 
fore winter sets in. 

It is best to have them in rather a shaded situation, so thai 



DICTIONARY. 



151 



they will not suffer from the heat of noonday. The applica- 
tion of a little water at intervals, will encourage the speedy 
formation of roots. In the second spring thereafter, remove 
the bushes to the spot in the garden whei-e they are to stand 
permanently. They are sometimes placed in the border, but 
more commonly on the sides of the principal walks. Thev 
will thrive in almost every soil, although they have a decided 
preference for one that is strong, rich, deep and somewhat 
moist. Tliey succeed well in a free, open exposure ; but, to 
secure their general health, a partially shaded location is un- 
doubtedly best. The gardener should, however, have bushes 
in both situations, as those having the full benefit of the sun's 
rays will ripen their fruit earhest in the season, but it will 
be smaller and less delicately flavored than that which lias 
been perfected in the shade. They are to be set out in rows, 
four feet apart each way. 

It has become common of late years, to recommend train- 
ing currant bushes in the shape of trees, with the main stems 
running up from twelve to thirty-six inches high, before the 
side shoots are permitted to branch out. These standards have 
a very respectable appearance, and are rather more easilv cul- 
tivated than the shrubs, where suckers are allowed to grow up 
at will. But, Mr. Cole, a distinguished authority on the sub- 
ject, says that if they are permitted to sucker moderatelv, un- 
der a regular system of pruning, they will be longer lived, and 
produce more abundantly, than where the whole nourishment 
of the top passes through a single channel. 

Nevertheless, the shape of the bush is not of as much im- 
portance as the other details of management. A due regard 
to pruning is very necessary to the production of fruit, which 
is borne mostly by two-year old wood. In some leisure hour 
of autumn or winter, all the old and stintetl brunches should 
be removed, and the shoots of the preceding year's growth 
shortened some five or six inches. By such a course, the sap, 
instead of being wasted upon barren wood, is confined within 



152 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

a small compass, and is permitted to form shor.t, fertile spurs. 
Care must be taken to prevent too dense a growth ; the 
branches should be few, spreading out widely, and not cross- 
ing or interfering with one another, so as to admit the sun and 
air to every leaf 

When there is a convenient opportunity in the lat+er part 
of summer, the soil ought to be enriched by the addition of a 
little good manure, dug in among the roots. Omitting this 
until winter, or the following spring, has been aptly compared 
to cramming an animal with food just before it is slaughtered. 
The roots require their food whilst they are getting in readi- 
ness for the next summer's crop, and npt after their growth is 
suspended for the season. At all times of the year, the soil 
should be kept light and free of weeds, so that the roots may 
have no cause to complain of inattention on that score. Fruit 
of the very finest quality may be expected, attractive for its 
size, rich color, and delicious flavor. It can easily be kept on 
the bushes until the middle of autumn, by covering it with 
mats, cloths, or anything to shield it from the sun. Should the 
reader be disposed to think such particular care in the cultiva- 
tion of the currant unnecessary, we advise him to manage at 
least one bush in the manner above described, while he per- 
mits the remainder of the plantation to take care of itself in 
the good old-fashioned way; and, if we mistake not, he will ere 
long be convinced of the justice of our remarks. The borer, 
which iri some districts occasions a good deal of injury, is pro- 
duced by a blue-black moth ap]>earing about the middle of 
June. Every stem that is affected should be burned. As a 
preventive, apply to the bushes, before the season of the 
moths, lye or potash- water, or some other offensive wash. Va- 
rious insects and worms that annoy the foliage may be repelled 
by the application of lime, or whale oil soap-suds. 

Use. — The reputation of the currant has long been estab- 
lished as one of the most wholesome and grateful of fruits for 



DICTIONARY. I53 

the dessert. The cool, acid flavor is peculiarly agreeable in 
the summer season, and has led to several diiferent prepara- 
tions of the fruit for winter use. Before they get to be fully 
ripe, currants are stewed for tarts or puddings, either alone, or 
together with some other green fruit. The expressed juice is 
made into shrub, wine and jelly. The shrub makes a pleasant 
summer drink ; the "wine was formerly very popular among 
our agricultural community ; while the jelly is an indispensa- 
ble accompaniment to many dishes. The fruit of the black 
species is chiefly used for making a jam, which is thought val- 
uable as a remedy for various disorders of the throat. The 
young leaves have been dried, and used as a substitute for 
green tea, from which, it is said, that it can scarcely be distin- 
guished. All kinds of cmrants are much esteemed in cases of 
sickness, for quenching thirst, and having a cooling influence 
upon the stomach. 

To 'preserve the green, fruit. — Pick it when fully grown, dry 
the surface well without shrivelling, and cork it tight in glass 
bottles, — covering the cork with sealing wax. Then burv the 
bottles to the neck, in a box of sand or earth placed in a cool 
cellar. The fruit may thus be kept for almost any length of 
time, in as good condition as when gathered from the bushes. 

Currant Pudding. — Put a layer of pastry in a dish, fill it 
with ripe currants, and cover them with a top crust. Boil for 
one hour, at the end of which time you are to remove the top 
crust, for tlie purpose of putting in butter, sugar, nutmeg and 
cloves. The pudding is to be eaten with hard sauce. 

Currant Shrub. — To one pint of strained currant juice, put 
one pound of sugar. Boil together gently for eight or ten 
minutes, and tlien set the syrup in a place where it will cool. 
When lukewarm, add to every pint a wine-glassful of French 
brandy. Bottle tight, and keep in a cool apartment. A little 
of the shrub, mixed with water, makes a veiy refreshing drink 
for hot weather. 



154 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Currant Jelhj. — The best way of extraciiiij llie juice, is to 
put the ripe fruit intoaglass or earthern jar, whicli is suspended 
in a kettle of boiUng water, and cook it partially. Then put 
it into a flannel bag, and let the juice sti'ain through without 
squeezing. To every quart add two and a half pounds of 
white sugar, with the b'jaten white of an e'^'^. Boil the syrup 
very gently, skimming it all the while until it becomes clear 
and thick. The proper time for taking it from the fire, will be 
indicated by its dropping in a solid lump to the bottom of a 
tumbler of cold water. Fill the glasses, and let the jelly be 
exposed to the sun for a few days, as it will thereby be much 
improved. There are a great number of receipts for making 
currant jelly, and this one is believed to be among the very 
best. 

Carravi Wine. — Gather the ripe fruit, when it is perfectly 
dry, and extract the juice by pressure, or in the manner above 
indicated. For every gallon of juice, allow one gallon of water 
and three pounds of good, clean sugar. Dissolve the sugar ih 
the water, and, after removing all scum which may rise, add 
the liquid to the currant juice. Mix them well together in a 
keg or cask, but do not close it tight until fernjentation has 
ceased, which will not be under a week. Then add one gill of 
French brandy to every two gallons of the liquor, and close 
the cask tight. In three or four weeks, the wine will be fit 
for bottling. In six months' time, it will be good for use, but its 
quality is improved by age. 

DILL. — Anetham graveolens. 

Dill is a hardy biennial, and a native of Spain and Portu- 
gal. It somewliat resembles the common fennel, but is smaller, 
and has a less agreeable odor. It is mentioned in the original 
Greek of St. Matthew's gospel, but has been translated anises 
which is an entirely ditterent plant. A bed containing twelve 
square feet is quite large enough for any family. 



DICTIONARY. I55 

Culture. — The plants mupt be raised from seed, — one 
half ounce of which will be sufficient for a bed of the size above 
mentioned. Sow in drills one foot apart, and cover about 
one third of an inch deep. This is- best done in autumn, soon 
after the seed ripens, because it is then not only mure likely 
to germinate, but it produces stronger plants, than where sown 
in the following April. The soil must be kept light, and free 
from weeds. A little water will greatly assist the vegetation 
of the seed. When the plants have attained a growth of thi-ee 
or four weeks, they must be thinned out in the drill to dis- 
tances of at least ten inches ; or otherwise, they will be ren- 
dered weak and spindling. The leaves may be gathered as 
they are wanted for use. 

For seed, — the stalks shall be suffered to run up uncheck- 
ed. The seed-vessels should be picked as soon as they are 
fully ripened, and before they have a cliance to waste their 
contents upon the ground. This caution is seldom necessary, 
however, for such are the habits of the plant, that a bed, once 
made, will perpetuate itself. 

Use. — The seeds and leaves of dill, on account of their 
warm, aromatic taste, are much used in pickles, and frequently 
to give zest to soups and sauces. The seeds are well known 
to have some medicinal virtues ; yielding a volatile oil and a 
distilled water, which are excellent carminatives. 

EGG-PLANT, — Solanum melongena. 

Having been brought from Africa, this plant is known to 
many cultivators as the Guinea Squash ; but, its most common 
name is derived from the resemblance which the partly-grown 
fruit of the white variety bears to a pullet's agg. "We cannot 
call it a popular vegetable, although it appears to be grad- 
ually working itself into favor. Its history is somewhat like 
that of the tomato, which was little regarded at first, but has 



J 56 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

acquired for itself a deservedly high reputation. The peculiar 
taste of the fruit, even when cooked in the most approved 
manner, is very disagreeable to some persons ; and by many 
gardeners it is raised more for its ornamental appearance in 
their grounds, than for any particular value wliich they may 
attach to it in the culinary department. By others, however, 
it is esteemed as a great delicacy. It is now well known in 
the markets of cities, for wliich it is cultivated in large gardens 
situated in the vicinity. Even if it be desirable on no other 
account, it helps make a variety upon a table. Of the 
several sorts commonly grown, tlje Long Purple has such 
valuable qualities as recommend it in particular for family 
use. But there are other kinds, — like the Smooth-stemmed 
Purple, and the Prickly-stemmed Purple, — which are respect- 
ively worthy of notice. 

Culture. — Where earliness is an object, the seed may. be 
sown in a small hot-bed, at the very commencement of spring-. 
One ounce of seed will afford between three and four tliousand 
plants. The heat of the bed need not be very powerful, — 
only sufficient to bring the plants forward for their removal to 
the open ground by the first of May. It is Vv^ith them as with 
all other vegetables started under glass by artiiicial warmth,— 
their growth should be so regular and moderate, as to give 
the leaves a healthy, green color, instead of a pale, sickly 
yellow. Apply water in small quantities, at all times when 
the earth appears dry. The saslies may be kept closed until 
the you!ig plants have fairly made their appearance, after 
which, air ouglit to be aelmitted freely at midday. In all 
severe weather, as well as at night, a slight additional pro- 
tection of litter or mats is necessary, to prevent too great a 
re(kiction of the temperature within the frame. 

When the plants are about three inches high, tiiey must 
be thinned out to distances of three or four inches ; and those 
which are pulled, can be set in small pots, to be plunged up 



DICTIONARY. 157 

to the rim la the mold of another bed. They should be re* 
moved to a warm V)order, where the soil is rich and mellow, 
Bomewhere about the middle of May, or earlier in the month 
if the season be sufficiently mild. They would suffer not a 
little from being exposed to a late frost, or even continued 
cool weather. Put them in rows, two and a half feet apart 
each way, so that they can have ample room for tlie develop- 
ment of their leaves. Water them abundantly at the time of 
transplanting, and for a few days afterward shelter them at 
noonday from the hot sun. The after-culture is simply to 
make a good use of the hoe, keeping the soil light and clean. 
When the stems are a foot high, they need the support of a 
little earth drawn up around them. Fruit may be expected 
in July or August. 

For a crop to mature later in the season, or where early 
plants cannot be obtained from a hot-bed, the seed may be 
sown about the end of April. The bed should be in a warm, 
sheltered situation, protected from cold winds, and having a 
fine, fertile soil. The plants may be removed to their final 
location some five or six Weeks afterwards, either at evening, 
or on a damp, cloudy day. 

Use.— As we have already remarked, the fruit of the egg- 
plant is not held in general esteem. Like the tomato, which ia 
seldom relished at first, it will, after a few trials, be thought 
very palatable. We know, from personal observation, that its 
excellence depends altogether upon the manner in wliich it may 
be cooked. It is used in soups, and stews, but is conmionly 
cut into thin slices and fried, for which we give the following 

Jleccipt.—^The fruit contains an acrid juice, which ought to 
be removed before cooking. For this purpose, pile up the slices 
on a plate, with layers of salt, and raise one side of the ph tc, 
so that the juice may run off without affecting the taste of the 
lower slice. After remaining so for about half an hour, thev 
14 



158 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

should be well washed in fresh water, and then fried quite 
brown in batter. 

ENDIVE. — '■Oichoriwn endivia. 

OriginpJly of eastern Asia, the endive has been known in 
Europe since the sixteenth century. It is a hardy annual, and 
was introduced into Great Britain about the year 1548. In 
severa-l countries of Europe it is much esteemed, particularly 
in France, — where it is prepared for the table in many differ- 
ent ways. It is there thought to be very wholesome and nu> 
tritious. There are three varieties, viz. :— -the Green Curled,—^ 
the White Curled, — -and the Broad-leaved Batavian. As to 
their respective merits ; — the Green Curled, which is considered 
excellent for salads, is also the hardiest, and, therefore, the 
best adapted for the main crop; the White Curled, on account 
of its tenderness, is better suited for summer and autumn use ; 
while the Batavian is thought preferable to either of the 
others, for soups and stews. 

Culture. — Tlie endive is best pleased with an open situa- 
tion, and a soil which is deep and mellow, dry and rich. That 
it should be both deep and mellow, is necessary as much for 
the accommodation of the long roots, as to secure thorough drain- 
age, without which the plants cannot flourish. This last par- 
ticular is so important for those plants Avhich stand out through 
the winter, tliat some cultivators even go to the expense of 
founding the bed upon a substratum of stones and small 
blocks of wood. 

The principal season for committing the seed to tlie ground, 
is between the first and fifteenth of July. Small sowings may 
be made from time to time* during the two previous months, 
but the plants will mostly run to stalks, without attaining a 
vigorous growth for blanching. Towards the first of August, a 
final sowing can be made for late winter and spring supplies. 



DICTIONARY. 159 

After the soil has been thoroughly spaded^ open small drills 
lengthwise of the bed, one foot apart, and about four inches 
deep. Then sow the seed — one ounce of wliich may be ex- 
pected to yield five thousand plants, — in the bottom of the 
drills, and cover it thinly. It is advisable, during dry weather 
to give a little water now and then until the plants become 
firmly established. When they have attained a height of two 
inches, thin them out in the drills so that they may stand 
twelve inches apart. Or, where another bed is wanted, this 
first thinning should be only partial, and the strongest plants 
be allowed to remain until they are five or six inches high, 
when they are to be removed to trenches, and set twelve inches 
apart therein. Water must be applied in a moderate quan- 
tity at the time of transplanting, and the application repeated 
every evening, as long as any danger exists of the roots being 
injured by the heat or protracted drought. The ground is to 
be kept open and free from weeds, at all times during the grow- 
ing season. 

When the plants are about ten inches high, and appear per- 
fectly healthy, the process of blanching may be commenced. 
Select a dry afternoon, when the leaves are free from moist- 
ure, — which would cause them to decay, or otherwise injure 
their appearance, — and gather them together in a close bunch, 
around which matting is to be wound several times, bringing it 
to a point at tlie top in such a manner as will prevent the ad- 
mission of rain. Finally, some earth is to be drawn up against 
the plant, in order to save it from being broken down by the 
wind. To avoid the trouble of tying up each plant separately 
in tliis way, some gardeners cover them with inverted pots, or 
a roof, formed by two boards set at right angles, placed length- 
wise of the trenches, and banked with mold to exclude the 
light.* In the hot season, tying up is considered much the better 
plan ; but, at other times, covering the plants presei ves while 
it blanches them. If the weather continue w arm and dry, 
the blanching will be efiected in a week or ten days ; but, if 



160 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

otherwise, not under a fortniglit or tliree weeks. Tlie plant 
should be taken up soon after the process is completed, or it 
will rot, particularly during a long rain. 

The reader will, of course, inqun-e how the plants are to be 
protected through the winter. They may be taken up about 
the beginning of November, each set in a ball of dirt, and placed 
in a box of sand, in a cellar or shed, where they will continue in 
a tolerably good state for a month or six weeks. But the best 
mode, however, is to take them all up at that time, and plant 
them, six or eight inches apart, on a bank of light earth, sloping 
to the south. This bank is to be sheltered, by a cold frame and 
shutters, or by bent hoops and mats. The additional protection 
of leaves or litter, may be required during rigorous weather, but 
on every mild, pleasant day, air must be admitted freely, in order 
to prevent the appearance of disease among the plants. Blanch 
them as wanted for use, in the manner above described, with 
the precaution not to tie them up when in a frozen state. 

For seed, — allot some of the most healthy and perfect 
plants that remain in spring, and set them out, eighteen 
inches apart, on the "south side of a fence. Or, you can sow 
the seed in April, and remove the plants to another bed, as 
soon as they are five or six inches high. The flower-stems 
ought to be supported by stakes, and the seed-vessels to be 
gathered as they successively ripen. Lay them on a cloth, 
where they can get perfectly dry before being thi-eshed. 

Use. — The endive is cultivated for its head of leaves, 
which, after being blanched to deprive them of a certain bitter 
taste, are used in several different forms. The French eat 
them raw, stewed, boiled, fried and pickled ; but they are most 
commonly dressed in the form of a salad. When boiled, they 
are said to be an effectual remedy for^the jaundice. They 
never disagree with the stomach, but, on the contrary, are con- 
sidered cool and refreshing. The root, when roasted and 



DICTIONARY. 161 

ground, is said to be good mixed with coffee, giving it a fra- 
grant taste, and greatly increasing its exliilarating qualities. 

EscALOT, OR Eschalot. — See SHALLOT. 

FENNEL. — Anethmn foeniculum. 

A well known ai'oniatic perennial. It is a native of Italy, 
and has become a tenant of most European gardens. The 
stem is tall, bearing umbels of small, yellow flowers. By do- 
mestication, the seeds lose their acrid properties, and acquire 
an agreeable flavor, which makes them a popular medicine 
with the poor. 

Culture. — The fennel will be found to flourish in almost 
any kind of soil, although it appears to be longest lived upon 
a dry formation. It is by no means particular in regard to the 
exposure. Sow the seed in autumn, soon after it is ripened, or 
early in the fi)llowing spring. One quat ter of an ounce will 
be enough for a piece of ground containing twelve square feet 
Sow in shallow drills, one foot apart, and cover about one third 
of an inch deep. "When the plants are three inches high, thin 
them out in the drill to distances of ten inches. Oi", a planta- 
tion can be made with the offsets of old roots, in spring, sum- 
mer or autimm. Water should be freely applied every other 
day, until it is ascertained that they have taken a firm foot- 
hold. One advantage of making such a planfation is, that it 
comes into immediate bearing, No cultivation will be neces- 
sary, other than the occasional use of the hoe. To prevent the 
plants going to seed, the stems should be cut down as often as 
they manifest a disposition to flower, and this will cause a 
young growth of leaves. The fennel is always inclined to 
perpetuate itself, and v\hen a bed is once formed, it will re- 
main in good ortler for many years ; indeed, such are the habits 

14* 



152 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

of the plant, that it may be advisable not to permit the forma- 
tion of seed, unless it be wanted for some particular purpose. 
For seed, — allow some of the best stalks to run up and 
flower. They will bear abundantly in autumn. Put it in pa- 
per bags, and keep in a cool, dry apartment. 

Use. — Fennel is highly prized in European kitchens, but as 
yet it has attained little popularity in this country. The young 
stalks are used in salads, soups and fish sauces, as well as for 
a garnish to dishes. The Italians blanch them like celery, by 
which means their strong taste is destroyed, and they are then 
eaten with oil, pepper and vinegar. The seeds are employed 
in medicine as a carminative. 

GARLIC. — Allium sativum. 

Garlic is a hardy perennial, found growing naturally in Sic- 
ily and some other parts of southern Europe which border on 
the Mediterranean. It Tjelongs to the Allium family, and is, 
therefore, nearly connected with the common onion. The bo- 
tanical term is said to be derived from the Celtic all, which 
signified hot or burning. Garlic has been extensively culti- 
vated for domestic purposes, for at least three hundred years, 
having been introduced into England in 1548. The root is a 
compound bulb, consisting of a dozen or more small bulbs, 
called cloves, which are enveloped in a single membrane ; the 
stem run« to the height of about two feet ; while the leaves are 
long and narrow. The whole plant has a powerful fetid odor, 
and a sharp, acrid taste, which are very unpleasant to those 
persons who are unaccustomed to them. It seems to have 
been worshipped by some nations — as, for example, the Egyp- 
tians ; and detested by others — as by the ancient Greeks. We 
cannot say that it is much esteemed either in this country or 
in England. It is not common in family gardens. 



/ 



DICTIONARY 



163 



CuLTUTiE. — It is proj)agated by the cloves, or sub-divisions 
of the bulbous root. Althougli very hardy, and grown easily on 
almost every kind of soil, still it has a preference for one that 
is dry, mellow, and rich — but not rank from the recent addi- 
tion of fresh dung. Little preparation is necessary. Set the 
cloves, in early spring, in rows about six inches apart each 
way, and to the depth of two inches. As the root end should 
in every ca^e be do^vnward, the best method of planting, is to 
take a clove between the thumb and forefinger, and push it 
gently into the soil. 

The after-culture is simply to keep the surface open and 
cleaa . Some of the bulbs may be drawn from time to time as 
they are wanted for use, yet the principal part of the crop 
intended for preservation through the winter, should be al- 
lowed to remain until it has come to maturity. This will be 
indicated by the leaves turning yellow, and, in the middle 
states, occurs generally about the beginning of August. In 
harvesting, pull up the bulbs by the stalks, and let them lie 
exposed to the sun for a few hours ; after which, they may be 
tied in bundles, and put away in a cool, airy apartment for 
safe keeping. They can be preserved until the following 
spring, without any difficulty. 

Use. — Several valuable and curious properties are ascribed 
to this plant. In some countries, it is used extensively as a 
seasoning for food ; — thus, among all classes of society in the 
southern parts of Europe, it enters into the composition of 
nearly every dish for the table. In England and the United 
States, however, it is by no means a favorite, as its strong, 
nauseating smell is repulsive to our more refined taste. Garlic 
is, likewise, celebrated for its medicinal virtues. It forms an 
excellent expectorant, and has been administered in a great 
variety of diseases, such as hysteria, obstructions, dropsy, cu- 
taneous eruptions, deafness, etc. The juice is said to be the 
best cement known for mending broken glass and china. 



1-64 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

GOOSEBERRY.— Kibes grossularia. 

England seems peculiarly .adapted, by the coolness and 
raoLstuie of its climate, to the successful culture of this fine 
fruit. In Lancashire and the adjoining counties, there are an- 
nual meethigs of the gooseberry growers, at whicli prizes, rang- 
ing in value from ten shillings to as many pounds sterlmg, 
are awarded among the exliibitors. It is true, that the size 
and weight of the berry are, as a general thing, considered of 
greater importance by the judges, than its excellence for culi- 
nary purposes. An account of each meeting, giving full de- 
scriptions of the prize sorts, is afterwards published in a small 
volume called "The Manchester Gooseberry Book.'" In its 
wild state, as found in the northern part of Europe, the berry 
is half an itich m diameter, and weighs only one quarter of an 
ounce ; but under the influence of high culture, it has in some 
cases attained a diameter of two inches, with a weight of one 
ounce and a half Such is the effect of horticultural exhibi- 
tions. 

Although thus successful in Great Britain, the foreign 
gooseberry, owing to the difference in climate, cannot be nat- 
uralized in the southern part of Europe, or of the United 
States. Indeed, the crop often fliils in what are called the 
northern states. We have several native varieties, which 
undoubtedly might be made worthy of attention, as being bet- 
ter suited to oiu" long, oppressively hot summers, than any 
which could be imported from England. A result so desirable 
should lead to the thorough investigation of the subject by our 
intelligent gardeners. We believe that nothing but skill and 
perseverance is required, to accomplish as much in this coun- 
try, as has been already accomplished by the humble cot- 
tagers of Lanca>hire. 

Tile number of varieties which liave been produced in 
England, is really surprising ; of the thousands raised from 
6eed, the catalogue of the London Horticultural Society enu- 



DICTIONARY. lg-5 

merates one luindred and forty -nine that are "wortliy of notice ; 
•while Liiulley gives a hst of over seven hundred wliich have 
been distinguished at various times by prizes. The following 
sorts are certainly among the very best : — of the reds, the 
Crown Bob, — the Red Warrington. — HovgJitori's Seedling, — 
— and the Champagne ; — of the yellows, the Early Sulphur, — 
Gortons Viper, — the Yellow Cliamjjagne, — and the Golden 
Fleece ; — of the greens, Parkinsons Laurel, — the Green Wal- 
nut, — the Jolly Tar, — and the Jolly Angler ; — and, finally, of 
the wliites, the Whitesmith, — Wellingtoti's Glory, — the Bright 
Venus, — and Cromptons Queen of Sheha. The difficulty of 
making any selection like the above, will be readily appreciated 
by the reader. 

Culture. — New varieties are raised from seed, but the old 
establi:^hed sorts are propagated by cuttings, in much the same 
way as the currant. These cuttings are taken in autumn, just 
before the leaves fall, or as soon as the frost is out of the 
ground in spring, from the strongest and straightest shoots of 
the last season's growth. They should be of healthy appear- 
ance, and about twelve inches long. If you propose trauiing 
them as standards, you must cut out, with a sharp knife, all 
the buds, except three or four at the upper end, in order to 
prevent the appearance of troublesome suckers around the 
main stem. Experience has shown, however, that the bushes 
will be longer lived, and much more productive, when per- 
mitted to sucker moderately, than if the whole support of the 
top be drawn through a single channel. By a judicious system 
of pruning, the bearing wood will be frequently renewed, and 
the sap will not be wasted upon that which has become old 
and barren. The cuttings should be inserted about half their 
length, in a bed of rich, moist soil, situated on the north side of 
a fence, or in some shaded spot. The dirt is to be firmly- 
pressed around them, and again in the following spring, if they 
appear to have been at all lifted by the frost. 



IQQ GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

In the second jear after, they will probably have become 
BO well rooted that they may then be removed to their final 
location. Being exceedingly sen.^itive to heat and drought, 
they require a soil Avhich is at once deep and mt)ist. It ought 
to be sub-oiled or trenched, before they ave tak(m from the 
Aiui'sery bed. Richness is also an essential requisite, and, in 
idditiou to a liberal application of dung at the outset, a gener- 
ous top-dressing should be dug in around the roots in every 
succeeding autumn. The situation must be open, and away 
from the injurious influences of trees. It has been said on 
good authority, that when the bushes are planted near a white- 
washed fence, they are nut so liable to suffer from the mildew, 
as they would be in an open compartment. Transplant dur- 
ing any mild, pleasant Aveather in autumn or spring. To pre- 
vent their shade affecting vegetables grown in their neighbor- 
hood, it is a good plan to put them on the sides of tlie principal 
paths, or in a border that is not wanted for other purposes. 
Let them stand in rows, between three and four feet apart 
The ground should always be kept in good tilth, — light and 
porous, as well as free from weeds and grass. 

Th >rough pruning is considered very essential to the success- 
ful growth of the gooseberry. It is best performed in autumn, 
when the leaves have fallen, and the position of the branches is 
thereby better exposed, or at any time during the Avinter and 
spring, before the buds get to be much swollen. The rules to be 
followed in pruning, are learned only from personal observation 
or experience ; and we can but suggest a few leading hints, 
the application of which must, in every case, be governed by- 
sound judgment and discretion. Old and unproductive wood 
should first be removed, as that absorbs sap without ren- 
dering any equivalent ; while the young shoots are to be 
shortened and reduced in number, so as to admit the light and 
air freely to every leaf, — without which tlie perfection of the 
fruit cannot be expected. With a little practice in the use of 
the knife, this winter pruning can be so performed as to give 



DICTIONARY. 1 67 

the bushes a very neat appearance, and to secure an abundant 
crop m the coming season. At the same time, the ground ought 
to receive a generous apphcation of manure, to ensure its fer- 
tihty, and add to the security of the plants against disease. 

The " mildew," as it is termed, proves the most serious ob- 
stacle to be encountered by the American gardener. It does 
not exist in the cool climate of England, and is only occasionally 
known in the extreme northern parts of our own country. But, 
in the middle states, as we go towards the south, we find the 
crop very uncertain. When partly grown, it suddenly becomes 
coated with a grey mildew or scurf, which in a short time de- 
stroys its value. The berries should be picked as soon as may 
be after the appearance of the disease, and either used in the 
cultivator's own kitchen, or carried to market. Hoav is this 
obstacle to be overcome ? Being local and confined to particu* 
lar districts, it never can be entirely. All remedies that have 
been proposed, are partial in their effects. High culture — or, 
keeping the soil rich and in good tilth, accompanied by a judi. 
cious system of pruning, — is most important. Wood ashes are 
sometimes sifted on the leaves, while lime and sulphur are dug 
into tlie soil. The most eflScient remedy is covering the ground 
with a layer, ten or twelve inches in thickness, of salt hay or 
sea-weed. In places where these cannot be procured, litter or 
straw can be used in their stead, by being sprinkled with small 
quantities of fine salt or brine. Spent tan around the bushes 
is good to prevent the attacks of the destructive caterpillar. 

Use. — Tlie fruit is deservedly held in high esteem for culi- 
nary purposes. In fact, its name is derived from the circum- 
stance of its having been in olden times considered an indispen- 
Bable accompaniment to a green goose. In its unripe state, 
early in the season, it is made into sauces, tarts, pies, puddings 
etc. ; while, when fully matured, some of the choice varieties 
are very acceptable for dessert, and make good preserves. In 
every form it is wholesome, as well as pleasant to the taste. It 



168 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

makes a veiy excellent wine, "which is said to be so near 
equal to Champagne, that it often passes for tliat among inex- 
perienced j udges. 

To preserve (jreengooseberfies. — Fill a bottle with the green 
fruit, and let it stand a few minutes in a vessel of boiling water. 
Cork and seal it immediately after being taken from the water, 
and keep it in a cool cellar, with the neck downward. 

Gooseberry Fie. — Pick the heads and stems from unripe 
gooseberries, and rub them with a towel for the purpose of 
cleaning them. Fill a dish with them, and add a little water, 
together with sufficient brown sugar to correct their acidity. 
Cover with puff paste, and bake for upAvards of an hour. Some 
persons stew the fruit in sugar before putting it in the plates, 
80 that it requires less baking. 

GRAPE.— Ft^ia. 

Scripture abounds in allusions to the vine. The excellence 
of its fruit, and the unrivalled beverage which can be made 
therefrom, led to its cultivation iu the earliest ages of an- 
tiquity. By a figurative mode of expression, it was known aa 
the type of plenty autl the symbol of liappiness. Thus, in the 
description of the peaceful and flourishing state of the king- 
dom of Israel under Solomon, we find it recorded that " 3n- 
dah and L-^rael dwelt safely, every mati under his vine and 
under his fig tree, from Dan even to Beersheba." And it waa 
a curse pronounced upon the same people for their disobe- 
dience, that they " sliould plant vineyards and dress them, but 
they should neither drink of the wine, nor gather the grapes, 
for the worms should cat them." The ingratitude, unprofit- 
ableness and idolatry of the Jewish Church, are represented aa 
a vineyard yielding the disappohited proprietor only wild 
and poisonous fruit ; Avhile its ruin is set fortli under the 
Bimile of a vineyard laid waste. Two of the most beautiful 
parables left for our instruction by Jesus Christ, are drawn 



DICTIONARY. j^g 

from the appearance and culture of tlie same plant. In one, 
He represents Himself as the son of the Lord of the vineyard, 
scut to collect the fruits thereof; and in the other, as the true 
\me, His people being the branches, and. His Father the 
Husbandman. , 

A distinguished writer upon the management of the grape, 
ppeaks in the following enthusiastic language : — " Of all the 
productions of the vegetable world, which the skill and in- 
genuity of man have rendered conducive to his comfort, and 
to the enlargement of his sphere of enjoyments, and the in- 
crease of his pleasurable gratifications, the vme stands forward 
as pre-eminently conspicuous. Its quickness of growth, — the 
great age to which it will live, so great, indeed, as to be un- 
known, — its almost total exemption from all those adverse 
contingencies which blight and diminish the produce of other 
fruit-bearing trees, — its astonishing vegetative powers, — its 
wonderful fertility, — and its delicious fruit, applicable to so 
many purposes, and agreeable to all palates, in all its varied 
shapes, — combine to mark it out as one of the greatest bless- 
ings bestowed by Providence to promote the comfort and en- 
joyments of the human race." 

The grapes of the old world are all descended from the 
Vitis vhiifera of Persia, but the natives of this country are 
distinct species, which have been greatly improved by domes- 
tication. The foreign kinds are not suited to this climate, and 
can be grown with success only under glass. The best native 
varieties are — the Isabella, — the Catawba, — the Bland, — the 
Ohio, — and the Elsinburgh. The first two are placed by 
general consent at the head of the list, and their good quali- 
ties are such as to recommend them in particular to the favor- 
able notice of the farmer and small gardener. Common and 
popular as tliey are, we cannot but Avish that they were even 
more so. We would that every cultivator of tlie soil, how- 
ever humble may be his position in society, should be able, in 
the language of Holy Writ, to " sit under his own vine," and 
35 



170 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

to be gratified by its fruit. No man who has a yard of ground, 
with a naked fence, or the side of a building, at liis disposal, 
should be without this source of pleasure and comfort. It can 
be obtained from a nurseryman at the cost of a few shillings, 
and the expense of its subsequent cultivation is too trifling to 
be thought of for a moment. Its management, which proves 
a bugbear to so many, is but little more difficult than the 
management of a turnip patch, or a hill of Indian corn. We 
shall offer a few hints upon the subject, and refer the reader 
who wislies farther information, to the numerous excellent 
treatises which may be found in the bookstores. 

Culture. — In the propagation of tlie old varieties, we 
have succeeded best by making lai/cra of young wood, some 
time during the month of June. The shoots are bent down 
into little trenches, wliere they are confined by forked slicks, 
and covered with a little mellow earth. The occasiom^l ap- 
plicatitjn of water while the weather continues dry, will induce 
the speedy formation of roots. In the latter part of autumn, 
the stem connected with the parent stalk may be cut, so that 
the new vine'^an be removed to any place where it is intended 
to remain. Propagation by cuttings is more easy, but less cer- 
tain. Tliey should be about a foot long each, having three buds, 
and planted in a sloping direction, with one end just above 
the surface. Early spring is the proper time for the opera- 
tion, and the soil ought to be rich and mellow, as well as in 
rather a shaded locality. As the vines are apt to bleed when 
cut in spring, take off the cuttings in autumn, and keep them 
through the winter in the cellar, covered by a little light soil. 
Making use of eyes is a favorite method, especially for scarce 
varieties. In February or March, take some of the last year's 
shoots, and cut tliem into pieces two inches long, with an eye 
in the middle of each. Split them, and plant the halves con- 
taining the eyes jinder glass, or in a warm window. Cover 
them about half an inch deep, and be sure that the eye is up- 



DICTIONARY. 17| 

jT<?rmost. The vines can be removed to the open garden, as 
soon as tliey acquhe sufficient size to bear transpl.mting. 

The next thought will be regarduig the situation. In vine- 
yards, it is customary to tie the vines up to large stakes, wliich 
are set in rows, eight feet apart each way. In gardens, they 
are placed by the fence, or by an upright trellis not over eight 
feet high. They are often permitted to run up the sides of 
buildings, which are thereby relieved of their unseemly naked- 
ness. The best native grapes we have ever tasted, were 
picked from a vine that completely covers the south side of a 
dwelling-house, where it has borne enormous quantities of 
fruit for many years past, and bids fair to be as productive for 
many years to come. The situation ought to be neitlier in a 
valley, nor on a high, bleak hill ; a moderate elevation, such 
as we have in another place recommended for the general 
■vrants of a garden, is most suitable. The exposure should be 
open, for although the shade of trees or buildings may induce 
luxuriance of growth, yet the crop will be smaller and more 
uncertain than where it has the full benefit of light and air. 
The best soil is one which is at the same time " dry and light, 
deep and rich." A dry substratum is so essential to the pros- 
perity of some varieties, that where they are cultivated, gar- 
deners frequently take the trouble to make an artificial bed of 
bones, blocks of wood, and stones, at the depth of two or three 
feet below the surface. 

A certain degree of fertility in the soil is necessary to the 
health and continued productiveness of the vine. To use a 
homely comparison, the vine is somewhat like a cow which is 
fastened in her stall, and can get nothing to eat except what 
her master puts before her. If she be regularly fed, and with 
food suited to her wants, she will keep in good condition, or 
perhaps even improve in flesh, and will yield a generous re- 
turn of milk. If she be neglected at times, or be not allowed a 
reasonable supply of hay and r<wts, the quantity of hor milk 
gradually decreases, while her bones seem disposed to force 



172 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

their way through the skin that covers them. If she be alto- 
gether neglected, her death is a natural consequence ; but, on 
the contrary, if her owner should feed her too liberally, she 
would soon become so fleshy as to be unfit for the pail. It is 
6o with the vine. The roots must have a proper supply of 
nutriment given them, or they cannot maintain a luxuriant ' 
growth of foliage, and mature a crop that is valuable alike for 
its size and the excellence of its flavor. When they have ex- 
hausted the soil within their reach, they are like the cow tied 
to an empty manger. But should they be fed injudiciously, 
with food not adapted to their wants, or at unseasonable times, 
the fruit will be found of inferior quaUty. 

The conclusion is obvious ; — the cultivator, after having in 
the first place selected a favorable soil, and spaded it deeply, 
must afterwards give it regular applications of manure, in 
order to ensure its fertility and the vigor of the vine. Animal 
excrements applied in large quantities, are known to affect 
the rich flavor of the fruit, and sometimes to cause the loss of 
the crop. They should, therefore, be composted, or else given 
frequently, and in small doses. Ashes, bone-dust and soap- 
suds from the wash-room, are very excellent fertilizers. Yet, 
nothing is so good for the purpose, as the annual trimmings 
buried near the roots, as they will decay, and furnish all that is 
required for a new growth. This important fact was dis- 
covered by certain poor peasants, who were unable to pur- 
chase majiure. We have for a long time been in the habit of 
applying soap-suds to the roots on washing days, and a solution 
of whale oil soap on one or two other days of each week, 
during the sunnner season. It is only by the pursuit of such 
a liberal policy that we can hope for our reward. 

Although in its wild state the grape vine attains a pro- 
digious size, the stem being perhaps three feet in circumfer- 
ence, and the branches two hundred feet long,: — it is well 
known that when under cultivation, a judicious system of 
pruning is conducive to its general health and productiveness 



DICTIONARY. 173 

When suffered to extend its foliage according to its own 
pleasure, but little dependence can be placed upon realizing 
either profit or satisfaction from its fruit. While all persons 
are ready to admit the value, — nay, the actual necessity, — of 
such pruning, there is much uncertainty in regard to the best 
mode of doing it. Thus Buist has aptly remarked, that " fre- 
quently so great a mystery is thrown around these simple at- 
tentions, that the timid are afraid even to touch the vine with 
the knife ; while others, whose boldness goes farther than 
their knowledge, cut right and left with considerable dex- 
tei"ky, feeling satisfied if they show that the wood is at least 
cut off." Pruning is so intimately connected with the manner 
of training the branches, that we shall explain our ideas con- 
cerning both, by following the growth of the vine from the 
time it leaves the nursery until it comes into bearing. 

When it is planted by the trellis, cut it down to the lower 
two buds or eyes, which may be permitted to form one shoot 
in the coming season. Train this shoot in a perpendicular di- 
rection, but, at the approach of winter, cut it down to fotir 
buds. In the second summer, train up two shoots in the shape 
of the letter Y, but at autumn take them down, and extend 
them horizontally along the lower rail as far as desired. Thi'ee 
or four feet on either side of the main stem is probably far 
enougli, and a single vine will then occupy from six to eight 
feet of the trellis. In the tliird year, four upright branches 
shall be grown from the liorizontal arms, at equal distances 
apart, and stopped as soon as they reach the upper lail. In the 
fourth season, a few bunches of fruit can be allowed to perfect 
themselves. Just so that the cultivator may be encouraged, and 
feel that he is actually reaping some of the benefits of his in- 
dustry. It is not advisable, however, to try the roots too se- 
verely, or tliey will be less able to yield generously in subse- 
quent years. They are still young, and must be permitted to 
strengthen themselves. In the autumn, they shall be cut 
down to the first bud from the horizontal arms. Four shoots 

15* 



174 



GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 



of the summer's growth are to remain to perfect fruit in the 
fifth season, at the end of which they will be cut down in the 
same manner, to make room for the four new branches, which 
have sprung up in place of those cut down a year previous. 
And so the gardener must proceed from year to year, cutting 
out the old wood which has just done bearing, and leaving 
young shoots to produce the next crop. 

This long explanation will be better understood by refer- 
ence to the accompanying Fig. 23, which represents the vine 
at the end of the fourth year. The main stem is indicated 




.^si^^^lSii^^P^^i^ 



by the letter a; hb are the horizontal arms ; cccc are places 
occupied by the four upright shoots which bore fruit and have 
been cut down ; and dddd are the four branches of tlie sum- 
mer's growth, which are expected to bear in the coming sea- 
son. This is called the " renewal system," and is, undoubtedly, 
the one best adapted for open air culture, because the circula- 
tion of the sap is principally through young, vigorous wood, 
rendering the whole plant healthy and productive. The fruit 
is larger and better than where the " spur system" is followed, 



DICTIONARY. I75 

although not so abundant. The most suitable time for pruning 
is in November, but the general practice is to delay the oper- 
ation until the mild days of February or IVIarch, about % 
montli before the buds are likely to commence swelling. At mid- 
summer, instead of pulling off leaves and cutting away good- 
sized branches, as is so common, it will be only necessary to 
pinch off the ends of the shoots, and, perhaps, to remove feeble 
laterals, tiiat the whole strength of the roots may be expended 
upon the perfection of the fruit. It is a great jijiece of folly to 
strip the vine of its leaves, in order to expose the berries to 
the sun, for every schoolboy knows that the foliage of a plant 
is intended by natui-e to digest the sap, which then descends to 
impart vigor to the whole system. Should too large a quan- 
tity of fruit be set, it ought to be reduced early in tiie season ; 
and this is particularly necessary with young vines, lest the 
imperfectly established roots beeoiue cxliausted by overbear- 
ing. 

The devastations of vaiious insects may in a measure be 
prevented, by means of large open-mouthed bottles, that are 
half filled with sweetened vinegar and water, and then hung 
lip in different parts of the trellises. Lice that gather upon 
the ends of the teeider shoots to suck out the juices, should be 
dipped into a weak solution of whale oil soap. Caterpillars 
and worms are to be picked off by hand. The enemy most 
to be dreaded is the rose bug, of which we liave given a short 
description in the article upon the " Destruction of Vermin." 
The only chance of saving the crop, is to go round among the 
vines, several times a day during the season of tliat insect, and 
quietly kiiuek every tiespasser into a cup of water or turpen- 
tine. Endea,vor thus to " secure indemnity for the past, and 
security for the future." Every measure of this kind must be 
prosecuted diligently, and commenced as soon as the danger ia 
discovered, or there can be little ho2:)€ of a crop. 

Use. — Who ceeds to be told wliat an additioa to the des* 



176 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

sefrt, is a dish of fine grapes just picked from the vines ? As 
a fruit, they can scarcely be surpassed for richness of flavor ; 
and they are, moreover, wholesome for the stomach, as well as 
palatable to the taste. Their use in particular cases of disease, 
such as severe dysentery and pulmonary complaints, has been 
attended with the most beneficial effects. When dried, they 
are called raisins, and, in that form, are used extensively for 
the dessert and in various prepared dishes. Tlie fermented 
juice, or wine, has a world-wide reputation. In its pure state, 
it is, undoubtedly, a very healthy and refreshing liquor ; but, 
experience has long since shown, that even its moderate use 
may result in the most melancholy consequences. The tem- 
perance movement is a noble one, deserving the support of 
every honest and intelligent citizen. 

To preserve grapea through the winter. — Procure a tight 
cask or barrel, and at the bottom put a layer of bran, which 
has been thoroughly dried in an oven. Upon this place a 
layer of grapes, gathered before they have become "dead 
ripe," as it is termed. They should be perfectly dry, and care- 
fully cleaned, by means of a light brush, of dirt, cobwebs and 
insects. Then put on a second course of dried bran, then one 
of grapes, and in this way fill up the barrel with layers of 
bran and grapes alternately. Take good care that the bunches 
are not crowded closely together, and that the top layer shall 
be of bran. Head up the barrel very tight, to exclude the air 
as completely as possible. Thus packed, grapes have been 
kept in a first-rate state of preservation for nine months, or a 
year. When they are taken up, their flavor will be much im- 
proved, by cutting off the hardened end of the stems, and put- 
ting them for a few moments in sweet wine. 

HOP. — Humulus lupulus. 

Mesue, a celebrated Arabian physician, who died about the 
year 846, makes mention of the hop vine in his works ; and. 



DICTIONARY. 177 

indeed, it seems to have been cultivated for an unknown pe- 
riod. It did not attract attention in England, however, until 
Bomewhere about the year 1525, when the Reformation was 
in progress, as appears by the following doggerel : — 

" Hops, heresy, pickerel and beer, 
Were brought into England in one year." 

And its value was at first so little understood, tliat in 1528 
the Parliament was requested to prohibit its use, as an un- 
wholesome weed wliich would spoil the taste of beer. Public 
attention was attracted to the subject, and in less than half 
a century afterward, a little work, called " A Perfecte 
Platforme of a Hoppe Garden," was published by Rey- 
nold Scott ; which gave, in addition to a full description of 
the appearance and uses of the plant, curiously minute in- 
structions for its propagation and management. This book 
has become exceedingly rare, and is much prized by anti- 
quarians. The number of acres in Great Britain devoted to 
the culture of the hop has steadily increased ; in the year 
1837, they amounted to over fifty -six thousand, but, in 1846, 
the number fell to fifty -two thousand. The duties paid during 
the latter year exceeded four hundred and forty-three thousand 
pounds sterHng, or near two and a quarter millions of dollars. 
These few statistics sliow the dignity and importance of the hop 
in an agricultural point of view. In this country, it is raised to a 
certain extent for exportation, while nearly every garden con- 
tains a few vines for family use, two facts which will justify 
tlie admission of the present article in a work of this character. 
The hop belongs to the same family as the hemp and net- 
tle. It is a native of Europe, Siberia, and North America, 
and may be found growing spontaneously on the banks and 
intervals of man}' of oar large rivers. The root is perennial, 
giving out several herbaceous climbers ; the fruit is a sort of 
cone, composed of membranous scales, each of which envelopes 
& single seed- 



178 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Culture. — The whole process, from the time of jjlanting 
to the preparation of the crop for market, requires mucli expe- 
rience and many precautions. The vine is tender, and the pro- 
duce somewhat uncertain, — varying in quantity and quality, 
according to the season and management. Tlie most favora- 
ble soil is a deep, sandy loam, lying upon a dry substratum.- 
Instances are recorded of the roots having been traced to the 
depth of more than ten feet, which is certainly a goml I'easoii 
for giving them plenty of room in which to extend themselves. 
The soil ought to be finely pulverized, and made rich, if not 
naturally so, by the liberal application of well rotted dung. 
As regards exposure, the bed should be protected from severe 
northerly winds, perhaps situated on a gentle declivity towards 
the south-east. 

The best mode of obtaining roots for a new plantation, 13 
in early spring, to take a hoe and draw the earth from the old 
stools. Then cut off as many of the last summer's shoots as 
you deem necessaiy for your purpose. They should be about 
eighteen inches long, and are usually known as " trimmings." 
In making a large plantation, the ground is Jp be laid into 
parallel rows six feet apart, and holes for the reception of the 
roots marked out at the same distances from each other in the 
rows. These holes may be two feet square, and one foot deep, 
to be filled with good compost, or with the soil itself, if it be 
sufficiently rich, after having been spaded fine and light. 
Three roots shall be vallotted for each hole, and they are to be 
/ placed in this p)sition. They may be 
Fig. 24. covered about six inches deep. A short 

stake should be placed in the centre of 
each hill. The soil is carefully cultivated 
during the first year, and at intervals a 
little is drawn up around the stems. 
Tlie runners will probably climb the 
poles without jissistance, but should any 
be disposed to wander, bring them back, 




DICTIONARY. I79 

and fasten tliem with twine or bass. In autumn, a little com- 
post may be thrown upon the stools, to prevent their sujQFering 
from frost during the winter. 

In the second spring, the hills are to be examined, in order 
to cut off the last year's shoots and suckers, nearly close to the 
main roots. The trimmings can be dressed for the table like 
asparagus, forming a very wholesome dish. A little rotten 
manure or compost ouglit to be placed within reach of the 
roots, in order to secure their vigorous growth. The. dirt is 
then levelled over them to the depth of ten inches, and two 
pole?, fourteen or eighteen feet high, are set firmly in each hilL 
Thorough cultivation with the hoe, — or plough, m tlie case of a 
large plantation, — should by no means be neglected, while 
every care is taken to keep the runners upon the poles. This 
course of treatment is to be pursued annually. 

The vines will commence bearing in the second or third 
season, according to circumstances. Select for this purpose 
only such shoots as are stroni,^ and healthy, while the earliest 
ones, generally weak and feeble, are buried in the lull to be- 
come food for the others. Be careful not to overload the poles, 
sior to lessen the crop by having too many vines growing from 
a single hill. The time of harvesting is about the first of Sep- 
tember, being six or eight weeks after ihe flowers have expand- 
ed. They are in perfection when of a fine straw color, turning 
to a brown, and should be immediately gathered ; because, if 
suffered to get too ri|)e, they lose many of their good qualities. 
In gathering the crop, the poles are taken down, and the stems 
cut off three feet above the ground, that the roots may not be 
injured by bleeding. The poles are then laid upon a wooden 
box, or " bin," about nine feet long, three feet wide, and two 
and a half feet high, which is surrounded by women and chil- 
dren, who tak« off the hops by hand. The labor ought 
not to be commenced in the morning until the dew is off, lest 
the flowers be rendered musty, or deprived of their fragrance. 
■JTbis is usually a festive season in hop-produciag countries. 



180 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

The work must be performed in pleasant weather, and it lends 
1o the congregation of the young of both sexes, who beguile 
their time with humor and sport. Travellers in England tell 
some laughable stories of tlie practical jokes which are occa- 
sionally played by the pickers upon t]>e incautious spectator, 
or even upon one another. As many love matches are formed, 
and life-long friendships commenced, at these social gather- 
iags, as at our apple-bccs, donation- visits, or quilting-parties. 

The most important part of the management of hops, is the 
curing, or drying, of them. This is done in a kiln, where they 
ought to be carried within three or four hours af tei being picked 
They are spread out evenly, and allowed to remain unmoved, 
until they have become perfectly dry by a moderate, steady 
beat. The details of this process would consume too much 
space for insertion in such a small voUudo, and as we do not 
intend our remarks for a large cultivator, we will refer him for 
farther information to standard treatises. With the small gar- 
dener who raises a few vines for the use of his own family, it 
is only necessary to spread the hops out upon paper or a cloth, 
and to let them remain until they are quite free from mois- 
tlire, when they can be put away in paper bags. 

Use. — We have already mentioned, that the young shoots 
and suckers are by some persons considered a good substitute 
for asparagus. The vines, however, arc cultivated for the 
flowers, the principal use of which is to give strength and per- 
manence to beer. They impart an agreeable, although bitter 
and aromatic, flavor, besides preventing the too r;ispid progress 
of fermentation. They are goo 1 for making family yeast, and 
also have valuable medicinal qualities. A pillov/ fiUed with 
them is often thought excellent to induce sleep, when other ex- 
pedients have failed. 

To make Yeast. — Boil one handful of hops, and two of wheat 
bran, in two quarts of water, for twenty minutes; then str .;n 
off the water, and, while it is boiling hot, stir in wheat or rye 



DICTIONARY. Igl 

flour, till it becomes a thick batter; let it stand until it is 
about blood warm, when you are to add a half pint of good 
yeast, together with a tablespoonful of molasses, and mix the 
whole well together. In summer, put the yeast in a cool place, 
but, ill a warm one in the winter season. As soon as it be- 
comes light and fi.-othy, it is fit for use. Put it in a large, 
open-mouthed jar, and do not cork tightly for twelve hom's or 
so, when it will have done working. It will keep ten or 
twelve days. 

HORS E- R ADIS H. — Cochlearia annoracia. 

From a fancied resemblance in the shape of the leaves, 
being rather hollow, to an old-fashioned spoon called cochlear, 
is said to have been derived the botanical name of the horse- 
radish. It is a cruciferous plant, inhabiting the temperate 
parts of Europe, in moist situations. The stem is herbaceous, 
bearing small, white flowers. The root is cyhndrical, pene- 
trating very deeply mto the ground, and, when fresh, possesses 
a pungent taste and odor, which are highly esteemed upon the 
dinner table. Of late years, it has been very extensively cul- 
tivated for pickling purposes, and a few plants are considered, 
indispensable in eveiy common-^izcd family garden. 

CuLTiTvE. — The horse-radish delights in a deep, sandy 
luam, which is moldy, ricli and somewhat moist. The bank 
of a water-course, where the roots will not suffer from, drought 
in summer, nor be liable to inundation during the winter, is a 
very eligible situation. Tlie exposure should be free and 
open, as the roots never attain a large size when grown on 
poor land, or beneath the drip of trees. It is a good way to 
Bpade the ground intended for the bed, to the depth of two or 
three feet, in the previous autumn, and to turn under a good 
quantity of well rotted dung or decayed vegetable matter. 
The plantation can be made in March or November, as most 
convenient. 

IG 



182 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

The horse-rarlish is propagated by sets, or small pieces of 
the old root, two inches long, and each having two buds or 
eyes. Any part — either the main root itself, or its offsets, — 
will answer, but those sets which prove most successful are 
taken from the top or crown. The most expeditious mode 
of planting, and perhaps the best one, is by means of the" 
dibble. After the ground has been properly prepared, by 
being spaded, manured and levelled, holes, sixteen inches 
ieep, should be made by the dibble, in rows eighteen inches 
ipart, and at the distance of one foot from eacli other in the 
.'ows. The holes ought to be smooth, and large at the bottom* 
50 that the set can be at least fourteen or fifteen inches below 
the surface ; to secure this, an old spade handle, or a blunt 
fitick, either of which will very readily penetrate the mellow 
soil, is better than a sharp-pointed dibble. 

When the sets are dropped into their appointed places, 
'.he holes are to be filled with loose earth ; and the bed is 
to be smoothly raked over, for a sowing of lettuce, radish, 
or some other crop which will be removed early in the season, 
Ijefore it can prove injurious to the horse-radish. The mold 
ought to lie as loose and light as possible ; and, for this reason, 
llie gardener should avoid treading on it, after the sets are 
planted. They will soon start, and show their leaves above 
ground. Their subsequent growth can be much invigorated 
by occasional waterings with liquid manure. The only culti- 
vation required, is to keep the bed free of weeds, as well as, in 
autumn, to clear off the decayed leaves and rubbish. 

The roots will have attained a suitable size for use, by the 
second autumn after planting. In taking up the crop, a trench 
must be dug alongside the outer row of the bed, and the roots 
cut so as to leave a small piece to grow in the following sea- 
son. But, it is decidedly the best plan to make a new planta- 
tion every year, because the roots become tough, bitter, and less 
profitable for market, as they advance in age. In addition to 
all that, the reader will recollect that au alternation of crops is 



DICTIONARY. 183 

to be pursued whenever practicable, and that of right no vege- 
table should be grown twice successively upon the same spot. 
Wlien the old bed is to be destroyed, great care must be ob- 
served to dig up all the lateral roots, as the smallest of them 
will vegetate. Tlie first trench is to be filled with the dirt 
taken from the second one, whicli is dug alongside the nert 
row of roots, and the whole plantation to be managed in the 
same way. The winter's supply can be stored in the cellar, 
in a box of damp sand or earth. 

Use. — As a condiment for the table, the horse-radish is 
much esteemed. The roots should be u?ed only when fresh 
and sprightly ; they are then said to assist digestion. They are 
sci"aped into shreds, and covered with vinegar, to be eaten with 
roast meats, fish, etc. Thus pickled, and preserved in tightly- 
stopped bottles, they are yearly brought to market in large 
quantities. Moreover, the horse-radish has several medicinal 
virtues, it being a stimulant, and useful in cases of hoarseness, 
rheumatism, palsy, etc 

HYSSOP. — Hyssopus officinalis. 

Hyssop is a perennial, of hardy habit, firom the south of Eu 
rope. It is often mentioned in Scripture, and is cultivated in 
gardens mainly for its medicinal properties. The leaves and 
flowers have a sharp, warm taste, while the whole plant is 
possessed of a strong, fragrant smelL 

Culture. — It likes a light, dry soil, because, if its growth 
be too luxuriant, it will become tender, and lose its aromatic 
properties. New plants are obtained from seed, slips, cut- 
tings of the branches, or from divisions of the old roots. The 
first mode is much the easiest. Sow the seed somewhere 
about the middle of spring, in drills six inches apart, and not 
deeper than half an inch. Thin the plants, when three or four 



184 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

inches high, to distances of twelve inches in the drill. Cut- 
tings of the old stalks are to be taken off in the middle of 
spring, and slips of the young shoots somewhere about mid- 
summer. The divisions of the roots can be set out in either 
spring or autumn, as may be most convenient. They ought all 
to be planted in a shaded locality, and upon a fine, mellow 
Boil, where they will become firmly rooted by October ; and 
they are then to be removed to their permanent location. Wa- 
ter should be given, not only at the time of planting, and at 
every removal, but also twice or thrice a week during hot 
weather until they become well established. Keep the ground 
mellow and clean, by frequent hoeings. In spring and au- 
tumn, dress the surface of the bed with the rake, and remove 
all the dead branches. 

Use. — Hyssop is but little valued for culinary purposes^ 
although the powdered leaves are occasionally put with cold 
salad herbs. The whole plant, however, has something of a 
reputation for its medicinal virtues, being used in several dis- 
orders of the lungs. The branches should be gathered on a 
dry, pleasant day, and kept in a cool garret. 

INDIAN CORN.— -Zeamay^. 

Perliaps no early vegetable is in greater demand at the 
market of a city than good green corn. It seems to be a fa- 
vorite among all classes, and the first supply of the season is 
eagerly bought up at a high price. Much of that which is 
annually exposed for sale is of a very poor quality, and it 
seems strange to us that gardeners are willing to cultivate the 
second-rate varieties, when the choicest are so easily procured. 
It costs no more to raise a delicious Virgalieu, that actually 
melts in the mouth, than a hard, indigestible choke-pear ; no? 
is it more difficult to raise the excellent Su(jar-con\ tlian the 
kind usually grown in the field. We would recommend the 



DICTIONARY. 185 

following varieties for tlie kitchen ; — the Extra Early, and the 
Elghl-rowed Sugar. The first named is remarkable for its 
earliiiess and fine flavor, and yet, for the main crop, it can 
scarcely be called equal to the latter. A new kind by the 
name of Stowell's Sugar, which lias been brought into notice 
within a few months, is spoken of very highly by those who 
have tried it. If the liusks are suffered to remain on the ears, 
the grains will continue milky and in a good condition for 
boiUng, for several months after being plucked. This property 
will render it a very desirable sort, for those who relish a dish 
of green corn in midwinter. 

Culture. — Any common garden soil that is rich, dry and 
mellow, Avill be found adapted to the wants of this cereal. 
But its principal characteristic should be fertility, because the 
plant is a gross feeder, and requires considerable nourishment 
to perfect its large stalks, leaves and ears. It would be folly 
in any person to expect a good crop from a poor half-starved 
soil. The nr<5t planting should be as soon as the season 
becomes su^iciently mild, and have the benefit of a warm, 
sheltered i^ituation. To keep the table supplied for a long 
time, the planting must be repeated at intervals of a fortnight 
or three weeks until the middle of summer. 

After the ground has been ploughed or spaded, it is to be 
marked out in cross rows four feet apart each way. In the 
bottom of each hill is to be put a shovelful of old dung or com- 
post, and that to be covered with a little mellow dirt. The 
seed should have been soaked for at least twelve hours in a 
solution of saltpetre, or in simple warm water, to arouse the 
dormant irerm, and tlien rolled in plaster of Paris. Five or six 
of the-e kernels are not too many for one hill, as the number 
of the plants can easily be reduced. The proper depth of 
covering for the seed, is about two inches ; if too much mold 
be drawn upon the hill, the stalks become enfeebled, and de- 
cay before thev aj-e able to reach the surface. 
16* 



Igg GARDENER- S TEXT-BOOK. 

When the plants have made their appearance, and acquired 
a height of two or three incliep, it will be time to enter upon 
the duties of after-cultm-e. With the hoe, the soil in the hills 
is loosened ; and such weeds as cannot be reached by that im- 
plement, without risk of injuring the corn, must be pulled by 
the thumb and forefinger. The number of plants in a hill can 
be reduced to three, either at tliis, or at the next, hoeing. 
Tliree stalks will bear as much, and possibly more, than the 
whole half dozen. Putting a pint of ashes, or a gill of pou 
drette, around the roots at this time, will secure a j^uick an(3 
abundant growth of ears. 

In the course of two or three weeks, the plants will agam 
make urgent calls upon the gardener's attention. Tney ought 
not to be neglected any longp'- thar. need be, or a diminished 
product will surely be tne result. After they hare once got 
fe,irly under way,tliey will, in a measure, take care of them- 
selves, requiring only an occasional hour's labor, to keep the 
soil hght, and to eradicate weeds. Where tlie plantatiitn is 
extensive, the use of the hoe alone is too laborious, and the 
assistance of the plough or cultivator will be required. There 
is nothing like keeping the ground mellow, and open to atmo- 
spheric inflnences. We have previously shown its especial 
value in times of drought, when field crops that receive only 
occasional attention, are almost burned up by the heat. The 
old-fashioned practice of raising high hills has fallen into disre- 
pute, except on very moist land ; — it is coly necessary to draw 
a little mold around the stems when they are about a foot high, 
to steady them against the wind. As soon as the kernels are 
well developed upon the ear, it is fit for cooking. When the 
stalks are stripped, they can be cut close to the ground, and 
given to the cows, for which they prove an excellent s\immer 
feed. 

For seed, — only the best ears from the most produt:tive 
stalks should be gathered. By pursuing this course for a num- 
ber of years, the character of the variety can be much im- 



DICTIONARY. 187 

proved. At any rate, there will be no chance for Its degener- 
ating. For the early crops, the earliest ears must be selected. 
"When they are fully ripened, braid the husks together, with 
the ears hanging out like a string of onions, and hang them up 
in a cool, dry place. 

Use. — The following receipts are recommended to the 
housekeeper. She ought not to be content with coi-n in its 
green state alone ; but, every season, endeavor to preserve a 
quantity for winter use in the shape of succotash. 

To boil. — Green corn is sweetest when boiled upon the cob, 
from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to its age. Some 
persons do not strip off the inner husks, until after the corn has 
been boiled, thinking that its rich flavor is thereby better 
retained. The kernels can be cut off by a knife, and seasoned 
with butter, pepper and salt, or carried to the table untouched. 
None but tlie over-fastidious will object to eating them directly 
from the cob. 

Green Corn Pudding. — To three teacupfuls of grated com, 
add two quarts of milk, eight eggs, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
one half teacupful of melted butter, together with a little nut- 
meg. Bake for one hour, and eat with sauce. 

Green Corn Oyf^ters. — To one pint of grated corn, add one 
well-beaten e^^, one teacupful of flour, one half teacupful of 
butter, with salt and pepper to the taste. Mix tliem well to- 
gether. A tablespoonful dropped into lard, will m<ike a cake 
of tlie size of an oyster. Fry to a light brown, and when cooked, 
moisten it with cream or butter 

To dry for winter use. — After the ears have been boiled, 
the kernels are to be cut off by a knife, or shelled by running 
the prong of a fork along the base of the grain. Spread theiji 
upon a cloth in a shaded, airy place, but carry into the house at 
nightfall. They will require several days to become perfectly 
dried, when they are to be put away in cloth bags. The rav- 
ages of mice must be carefully guarded against. 



Igg GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Succotash. — Put tliiee quarts of cold water to one half pound 
of salt pork, and place them upon the fire. Cut three quarts of 
green corn frc^m the cobs, which are to be boiled with the pork, 
as they add much to the richness of the mixture. When the 
pork has boiled for half an hour, take out the cobs, and put in 
their place one quart of freshly-gathered shell beans. After 
they have boiled fifteen minutes, add the three quarts of corn, 
and let the whole boil for another fifteen minutes. Then turn it 
out into a dish, and add five or six large spoonfuls of butter, to- 
gether with sugar, salt and pepper to your taste. If the liquor 
have boiled away, it will be necessary to add a little more water 
before taking it from the fire. In winter, the dried com must 
be soaked over night, and not added to the pot until the beaai3 
become tender. 

INDIAN CRESS.— 7^;-opao?w?n majus. 

Generally known as the Nasturtium. It is a native of 
South America, and is distinguished for its brilliant show of 
orange and crimson-colored flowers. It was carried to Eng- 
land in the sixteenth century. Being a good climber, it is use- 
ful in covering a trellis or lattice as a screen, and for its gay 
dress is often made a tenant of the flower garden. The value 
of its seeds for pickling, and of the tops for salads, entitle it to a 
place among other family vegetables. 

Culture. — Indian cress will grow on almost any soil, and 
in neai'ly every situation ; but it flourishes best on a fresh, mel- 
low loam, having an open exposure. Where the ground is very 
rich and strong, the vine will be luxuriant, while the crop 
proves small, and of inferior character. Sow the seed in tlie 
middle of spring, about three or four inches apart in a single 
row, along a fence or trellis. Cover the seed three quarters of 
an incli det'p. Tlie plants are afterward to be thinned to stand 
about one foot apart in tlie row. The runnei's soon manifest a 



DICTIONARY. I39 

disposition for climbing, and at first, tliey may need a little 
assistance in fiistening themselves upon the trellis. Where 
tliey have been sown in an open compartment, they ought to 
be supported by stakes or brushwood. The occasional ap- 
plication of water in continued dry weather, is of great advant- 
age, — strengthening the plants, improving their appearance, 
and increasing their powers of productiveness. Other than 
this, they i-equire little attention. Flowers will open in or 
about the month of July, and the fruit is to be picked as soon 
as it acquires fall size, before it loses its fresh, green color. 

For seed, — let the fruit remain upon the vines until quite 
ripe, and avoid storing before it becomes dry and hard. 

Use. — The leaves and flowers have a sprightly taste that 
is pleasant in salads. They are also often used as a garnish, and 
sometimes as a remedy for weakness or pain in the stomach. 
The fruit is excellent for pickling. Immediately after being 
gathered, it is put in salt and water, which must be changed 
once in three or four days, and there kept until a sufficient 
quantity is collected. The salt and water is then drawn off, 
and replaced by hot vinegar. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.— Z/e/ian^Aws tuherosus. 

A small sunflower, bearing nutritious tubers, hx which it 
is cultivated. It is a hardy perennial of Brazil, and was first 
carried to England in the year 1617, where it soon became 
exceedingly popular as an esculent, being thought much su- 
perior to the potato. Loudon says that the name Jerusalem 
is a corruption of the Italian word for sunflower — girasole. 
Its name of artichoke is probably derived from a resemblance 
in the taste of its roots to the " bottoms " of that plant. The 
stalks are large, and frequently attain the height of ten feet. 
The roots are produced in great quantity, — the crops some- 
times exceeding two thousand bushels per acre. During the 
past few years, they have been much extolled for agricultural 



190 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

purposes, and, indeed, they would seem better suited for the 
fanner than for the kitchen gardener. 

Culture. — The Jerusalem artichoke is not very particular 
in regard to soil or situation ; it is, however, best pleased with 
a light and moist loam, having a free exposure. It requires ■ 
little attention, and is so much inclined to perpetuate itself, 
that it may even become a nuisance in a small garden. It is 
propagated in the same manner as the potato, by sets of the 
large-sized tubers. Plant them in March or April, according 
to the forwardness of the season, in drills three feet apart, and 
at distances of twelve or fifteen inches in the driU. Cover 
the sets about three inches deep. Be exceeding careful to 
guard against the intrusion of weeds. Keep the soil light, and 
draw a little around the stems for their support. The tu- 
bers can be taken up as wanted for use, during the months of 
September and October, but in November they are to be 
raised for preservation through the winter, in sand or earth. 
The smallest piece left in the ground, proves troublesome by 
vegetating in the following spring. The crop may, however, 
remain where grown, as it does not suffer from the frost. 

Use. — In an agricultural point of view, this plant deserves 
a high position. It is exceedingly hardy, bearing exposure to 
the severe weather of winter without injury ; — it can be grown 
upon poor soil, without the addition of much manure ; — itrequires 
little attention ; — and is distinguished by great productiveness. 
The stalks make very good fodder, if cut before the flowers 
have fully opened ; while the tubers are thought particularly 
valuable for cows, sheep and store pigs. When prepared 
plain for the table, the roots form rather a second-rate dish. 
After having been boiled soft or tender, they are to be peeled, 
and then stewed witli wine and butter. By many persons, 
they are then considered nutritious and possessed of a good 
flavor. 



DICTIONARY. 191 

Kale.— 5fie BORECOLE and SEA-KALE. 

LAVENDER. — Lavandula spica. 

Johnson says that the botanic name of tb.is plant, Lavan- 
dula, is derived from the Latin word lavo, to wash, in allusion 
to the use formerly made of its distilled water in the baths. 
It is a hardy under-shrub, a native of the south of Europe, 
and has been cultivated in England since the year 1568. It is 
distinguished for its aromatic and stimulating properties. To 
its general dissemination in some parts of Europe, has been 
attributed the excellence of the honey there made by bees. 

Culture. — It can be grown with the greatest success in a 
poor, gravelly soil. In a rich garden, it loses much of the 
fragrance for which it is esteemed, while becoming tender and 
less able to withstand the severity of winter. This is by no 
means, peculiar to the lavender plant, for it has long been re* 
marked in the cultivation of other aromatic herbs, that in 
proportion to their luxuriance of growth, are their hardiness 
and flavor diminished. The situation should be free and ex- 
posed. When having the full benefit of the sun, the plant 
Bometimes contains one-fourth part of its weight in camphor. 
Propagation is easily accomplished, in spring, by slips and 
cuttings of the young branches, about six inches long. The 
lower half of each should be stripped of leaves, before its in- 
sertion to that depth in a shaded border. They are to be 
planted in rows, nine inches apart each way. A little water 
may be given every other evening, to encourage the forma- 
tion of roots. In autumn, or the succeeding spring, the plants 
can be safely removed to their permanent location, in rows 
two feet apart each way. The only culture necessary is to 
keep the soil clean, and to remove the dead branches at the 
close of the season. The flowers ought to be gathered when 
they are in the greatest perfection. The bed will last a long time. 



192 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Use. — Tlie delightful fragrance of the leaves and flowers is 
well known, and has led to the preparation of the distilled 
water, the tincture, and the volatile oil. In. addition to their 
value as a perfume, they are ranked among the stimulants and 
carminatives of medicine. The flower-spikes are frequently 
put in little paper bags, to be laid among linen in drawers. 

LEEK. — Allium porrum. 

The leek is a member of the onion family, and has been 
cultivated from time immemorial. It has always been re- 
garded with particular favor by the Egyptians, who eat it raw 
with their bread, or as a sauce for meats. It is frequently 
associated with the name of St. David, the patron saint of 
"Wales, for the reason that Welshmen are accustomed to sport 
leeks in tb.eir hats upon his festival, the first of March. This 
is a very ancient custom, and we find frequent mention of it 
in the old writers. Some persorls have thought that it com- 
memorates tlie introduction of the plant into that country by St, 
David ; but more probably, as Shakspeare says, in his Henry 
the Fifth, it is " worn as a memorable trophy of predeceased 
valor." According to " an antient tradition," in a celebrated 
victory of the Welsh over the Saxons, in tlie sixth century, the 
former, under the prelate's directions, were distinguished by 
leeks which they gathered near the battle ground. As he was 
supposed to liave power to work miracles, it is not strange 
that their glorious success should have been attributed to this 
cause. Whatever may be the origin of the custom, it would 
be quite as remarkable, to find a Welshman without his leek 
on the first of March, as it would to discover a genuine Hiber- 
vAan without a shamrock in liis buttonhole, on St. Patrick's 
day. For certain purposes the leek is preferred to the onion. 
The varieties most wortliy of cultivation, and perhaps of 
equal excellence, are — the London^ — and the Scotch. 



* DICTIONARY. 193 

Culture. — Sow the seed in March or April, as soon as the 
ground becomes open, and the weather settled. One ounce of 
seed will yield between two and three thousand plants. 
Select for the bed a warm, sheltered border, and sow hi drills, 
three quarters of an inch deep, and eighl inches apart. When 
the plants have become established, they ought to be thinned 
out to distances of about two inches in the diill. Frequent and 
thorough lioeing is of the first importance, while an occasional 
application of water during a dry time, proves of great benefit. 
As soon as the seedlings acquire a height of eight or nine 
inches, they are fit for transplanting. 

The leek is best suited with a mellow loam, which has been 
deeply dug, and made rich by the application of old dung or 
compost. The subsoil should be dry, and the exposure rather 
open. Make shallow trenches across the bed, one foot distant 
from eacli other, for the reception of the plants, which are to 
be drawn from the seed bed, either during showery weather, or 
after the soil has been rendered yielding by the apphcation of 
water. Some should be allowed to remain at the distances of 
six inches asunder in the drill. Sliorten the extremities of the 
tops and roots of those which are taken up, and insert them in 
the trenches, by means of the dibble, eight inches apart. They 
ought to be inserted just so deep, that the centre leaves and 
buds shall not be covered with earth. 

In dry weather, give water freely ; and, at all times, during 
the season of their growth, make good use of the hoe. The 
Poll must be kept mellow, and, every now and then, a little 
should be drawn up around the stems. Some gardeners cut 
OiT the tops of the leaves, at intervals perhaps of three weeks 
or a month, in order to increase the size of the roots. A por- 
tion of the crop can be raised as wanted for use, by the begin^ 
ning or the middle of autumn. Tlie plants will stand the 
wmter well ; but, on the approach of hard frost, it is customary 
to store in sand a quantity sufficient for the wants of the 
fannly until the ground opens. 
17 



194 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

For .se<?(7.— Remove some of the best plants, in spring, to a 
warm, sheltered border. The flower-stems should be supported 
by stakes, or tied to the fence, to prevent their being broken 
down by the wind. Cut the heads when they turn brown, 
with a portion of the stems attached, by which they are to be 
lied together in bundles of three or four, for convenience in 
hanging thorn up to dry. When the seed becomes perfectly 
hardened, it can be beaten out at any convenient time. 

Use. — From its mild, agreeable taste, as well as on ac* 
count of its hardiness, the leek is by many jjreferred to the 
onion. The whole plant is used in various ways, such as 
being boiled plain to be eaten with meat, in soups, stews, etc. 

LETTUCE.— Zac«?^ca sativa. 

Lettuce is- a hardy annual of which the original country 
seems to be unknown. It has been found wild in many differ* 
ent parts of the world, and was first cultivated in England 
about the year 1562. It is divided into tvvo Aimilies, called 
the Cos and the Cabbage lettuces. Tlie first — distinguished 
by an upright growth,- — was introduced fiom the island of 
Cos ; and the second,— the habits of which are somewliat in- 
dicated by its name,—- from Egypt. Our climate is not alto- 
gether l;ivorable to the Cos family ; or, at least, we find the 
other one much more thrifty and worthy of cultivation. For 
the information of the curious reader, it is well to state, that 
the botanical term Lactuca is derived from lac, the Latin word 
for milk, in allusion to the milky juice which exudes from the 
stem when broken. This juice, when the plants are young, 
contains but a small quantity of the narcotic principle ; but it 
gradually acquires a strong, bitter taste, and becomes notably 
sedative. This property seems to have been known at a very 
early period, and a lettuce supper was thought higlily con- 
ducive to repose. The varieties and sub-varieties are numer- 



DICTIONARY. 1 95 

ous, and, as is usual in such cases, a very few include the lead- 
ing merits of the whole. 

TJie best soil for lettuce, is, undoubtedly, a mellow loam, 
deep, rich, and founded upon a dry substratum. It should be 
fertile, and if not so naturally, must be supplied with a good 
quantity of old dung, some time previous to the sowing of the 
seed. This is better done m autumn, than in the spring. 

Culture, — By tlie exercise of a little forethought, the family 
gardener can keep his table supplied with lettuce throughout 
the year, at a very trifling expense. To have early plants for 
spring use, the first sowing must be made eitlier in the pre- 
vious autumn, or else in the latter part of winter upon a hot- 
bed. The first plan we consider decidedly the best, as the 
plants are hardier, and better able to bear removal to the 
open ground, than those obtained by artificial heat. 

This sowing may be between the firsthand the middle of 
September, upon a bed of hght, rich soil, having the benefit of 
shade at midday. The best varieties are, — the Large Green- 
head, — the Brown Dutch, — ^and the Early Cabbage, — together 
"with such others as are capable of standing severe winter 
weather. From nine to twelve thousand plants have been 
raised from a single ounce of seed. Sow rather thinly in drills 
eight inches apart ; cover the seed liglitly, and, in a dry time, 
press the surface of the bed, by patting it with the spade, or 
by walking upon a board. When the plants crowd one an- 
other in tlie drill, thin them out to distances of two or three 
inches, allowing them just suflBcient space to secure a good, 
stocky growth before cold weather sets in. Such as are pulled, 
can be set out in another place, — perhaps on the spot to be 
enclosed by the cold frame. The soil should be kept hght 
and clean. 

In the latter part of October, the plants are to be furnished 
with their winter protection. Some of the hardy varieties 
which are intended for early crops, can be set out, one foot 



196 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

apart, upon the south side of ridges, that will be covered with 
straw during severe weather. The pi-incipal part, however, 
should be removed to the cold frame or box, and there dibbled 
as closely as they will stand, without interfering- with one an- 
other. The covering, be it of glass or plain boards, must be 
often opened in mild, pleasant days, for the admission of fresh" 
air. Look out for tlie attacks of earth worms and slugs ; dust- 
ing the leaves with soot is somewhat of a preventive. Or, in- 
stead of using a cold frame, the seed bed can be covered with 
mats placed over bent hoops. "Whatever may be the plan 
adopted, do not omit regular ventilation in all pleasant weatlier. 

Where the sowing was not made in autumn, according to 
the above directions, and early plants are wanted, tliey must 
be obtained from a small hot-bed, built in the latter part of 
winter. No great amount of heat is required, but care should 
be taken to prevent any bad consequences from the want of 
pure air. For general directions upon the formation and man- 
agement of hot-beds, the reader must refer to our article on 
" Forcing Vegetation.'' 

Taking it for granted that the gardener is supplied with 
plants, which have been safely kept through the inclement 
season, let us follow their subsequent growth. At the moment 
that frost leaves the ground, a small number ought to be 
transplanted to a very warm border, having the full benefit of 
the sun's rays, and protect^ from cold winds on the north side. 
They will for some length of time require the friendly shelter 
of hand-glasses, until they become gradually accustomed to 
the change of quarters, and until the progress of the season 
permits their exposure with impunity. A second, third, or 
fourth removal of these plants can be made in the same way, 
at intervals of seven or eight days. By such a course, a great 
advantage will be obtained in the regular maturity of the 
crop. 
*"' The first spring sowing in the open compartment, should 
take place as soon as the weather and ground will permit, — 



DICTIONARY. 197 

perhaps between the middle and beginning of March. For 
tlie bed s^elect a warm border in a sheltered situation, and 
mark out the drills twelve inches apart. The varieties well 
adapted for this sowing, are — the Brown Dutch, — the Early 
Cabbage^ — and the Dru>nhead. Sow thinly, and, in dry weather, 
press the earth in close contact with the seed. When the 
plants are two inches high, they are to be thinned out to dis- 
tances of four inches in the drill, and those which are pulled 
can be easily inserted in another bed. At this time, trans- 
planting can be practised successfully, but, when the season 
is further advanced, they seldom head well if removed from 
the seed bed. "When they are four or five inches high, they 
should be so thinned as to stand one foot apart each way. 
Water ought to be given freely at every removal performed in 
a dry dav, and regularly afterwards until the roots are estab- 
lished. The hoe must be nsed frequently between the drills, 
not only for the purpose of eradicating weeds, but also for 
the sake of keeping the surface soil light and porous. 

Another sowing can be made about a month later, and a 
third in August for the late autumn crop. Tlie best varieties 
are the LuHan, the Royal Cahbar/e, and such otliers as are 
able to withstand the intense heat of summer. Sow in drills, 
at the same distance apart as before, and thinly, so as to avoid 
transplanting. It will be recollected that lettuce seldom does 
well, when transplanted in war^jJt weather. 

The winter crop is to be ?own in the latter part of Sep- 
tember. The Early Cabbage is an excellent kind for this pur- 
pose. In the following month, when the weather becomes 
cold, the plants are to be rt-moved to a hot-bed, or the forcing- 
])it. The mold should be some eight or ten inches below the 
glass. Take the roots up very carefully by means of the 
trowel, and set the balls of earth in rows, nine inches apart 
each way. Water ought to be given in moderate quantities 
from time to time through the winter, and the saslies shaded 
at midday until the roots liave taken hold. Air is to be ad- 
17# 



J 98 gardenp:r's text-book. 

mitted freely in all pleasant weather, while in a severe frost 
the protection of mats upon the glass, as well as of a bank of 
earth around the frame, will be necessary. Decayed leaves 
must be removed as soon as they are discovered. Good heads 
for eating may be obtained in December, and through the re- 
mainder of the winter. 

In this climate, the Cos lettuces are far from being as suc- 
cessful as in Europe. They can be sown in autumn, and pro- 
tected througli the inclement season, to be transplanted into 
the open ground in spring. They are blanched by being tied 
up like the endive, a week or ten days before wanted for use. 

For seed, — select some of the best plants of the autumn or 
spring sowings. Put them in rows, eighteen inches apart each 
way, and do not omit to keep the varieties separate. Where 
two or more kinds are suffered to blossom in the vicinity of 
each other, a mongrel will surely be the result. Support the 
flower-stems by stakes, and gather the branches as the seed 
ripens, instead of waiting for a large portion to be wasted on 
the ground. That borne by stalks wliich have run up prema- 
turely, cannot be depended upon. Place the branches on a 
cloth, or a large newspaper, spread in the shade, and let them 
get perfectly dry before you attempt to thresh out the seed. 

Use. — Lettuce may be considered as belonging to the very 
best class of salads, and perhaps it is superior to all others. It 
possesses a mild, agreeable taste, while it is wholesome and easy 
of digestion. It is also sometimes used in soups. It is largely 
cultivated for the extraction of its narcotic properties, which 
are somewhat similar to those of opium, but have not the con- 
stipating effects of that drug. The stalk is cut just before the 
flower is ready to open, and the crust which forms upon the 
top is carefully gathered. The stalk is cut again and again, 
until the milky juice ceases to exude. 

To dress a Salad. — This seems to be a convenient place for 
giving directions how to dress a salad, which is a general name 



DICTIONARY. I99 

for certain vegetables, snch as lettuce, endive and mustard, 
prepared so as to be eaten raw. They should be well washed, 
and cut into small pieces. An egg is boiled hard, and, when it 
becomes cold, the yolk is to be taken out, and broken on a 
plate. Then put with it, a large teaspoonful of cold water, 
and near a teaspoonful of salt. Rub all this together, by 
means of a spoon or fork, till the egg is a thick paste, free from 
lumps. Next, add and mix a ti^blespoonful of salad oil, or cold 
melted butter ; and after this, add at least one tablespoonful 
of good vinegar. "When these are all Avell mixed, the dressing 
is made, and is either to be put immediately with the salad, or 
be sent to the table in a separate dish. The top of the salad 
may be ornamented with small pieces of the white of the egg, 
and slices of pickled beet. 

MARIGOLD. — Calendula officinalis. 

An annual, with bright yellow flowers, sometimes called 
the Pot Marigold. It is a native of southern Europe. Only a 
few plants are required by a common-sized family. 

Culture. — Sow the seed in drills, ten inches apart, either 
in the autumn of the year in which it ripened, or in the following 
spring. Select for the bed a soil that is light, dry, having a 
free exposure, and poor rather than rich. "Wlien the plants are 
two inches high, tiiin them out to a foot apart in the drill. 
Those whicli are pulled can be set out in another bed, to re- 
ceive regular applications of water until the roots have become 
established. Gather the flowers at the time they are in full 
bloom, and dry them in the shade before stoiing for winter use. 

For seed, — select none but the finest-looking heads. 

Use. — The marigold was formerly somewhat esteemed in 
broths, soup-, stews, etc., but now it is little regarded. Many 
medicinal virtues have been ascribed to an infusion of the 



200 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

leaves, particularly in agues. Tlie flowers yield a distilled 
water, a kind of vinegar, and a conserve, 

MARJORAM. — Origanum. 

A Avell known family of aromatic herbs. The botanic' 
name is derived from oros, a mountain, and ganos, joy ; mean- 
ing " the delight of the mountain," in allusion to the natural situ- 
ation of the plants. There are as many as eight species, all 
having numerous varieties. We shall notice only two, viz. : 
the Sweet, or Summer, [0. marjorana,) and the Winter, — or 
Bastard, ( 0. heraclcot'tcmn.) They both prefer a dry, mellow, 
moderately rich soil, in an open situation. 

The Sweet Marjoram ( 0. maj'^'ora/m,) is a native of Port- 
ugal, and is propagated by seed. Sow in very shallow drills, 
eight inches apart, somewhere about the middle of spring. 
Cover the seed regularly, and not deeper than half an inch. 
Tliin the plants to distances of six inches in the drill. The 
surplus ones can be transplanted into another bed, water bemg 
given until the roots become firm. Keep the ground light and 
free from weeds. 

For seed, — it is only necessary to let a few of the healthiest 
plants remain uncut, and to gather the seed as it ripens. 

The Winter Marjoram {0. heradeoticum,) is a hardy per- 
ennial, a native of Greece. The general appearance of the 
plant is much like that of the sweet marjoram. It is propagat- 
ed by divisions of the roots, or slips of the blanches. They 
are to be set in rows, one foot apart each way, by the middle 
of spring. They must be sheltered at noonday when the sim 
is powerful, and leceive an application of water, at least every 
other evening, until they are well e,stablished. The bed 
should have an autumnal dressing ; — the decayed branches 
being removed, the surface dug over, and covered Avith a very 



DICTIONARY. 



201 



little rich mold. The hoe must be used frequently, so as to 
keep the soil light and clean. 

Use. — Both species of marjoram are aromatics, having a 
warm, pleasant taste. They are much employed in season- 
ing soups and bi'oths, and are thought to be serviceable in com- 
plaints arising from a disordered state of the nerves. In the 
season of their growth, the tops can be gathered as wanted 
for use ; but, for a winter supply, delay cutting them until the 
flowers are about to expand. Tie the stalks together in small 
bundles, and hang them in a shaded place to dry. Keep in a 
cool, dry apartment, ^ 

MELON. — Cacumis melo. 

Among the most delicious of fruits, the common, or musk, 
melon holds a conspicuous position. It has been cultivated in 
hot climates for seemingly time immemorial, for which reason 
it is difficult to ascertain its native country, although botanists 
generally agree upon Persia. It was brought into Europe by 
the Romans, and by them disseminated wherever they carried 
their arms. Every reader will admit the richness of its flavor, 
that proves so tempting to the palate ; while its wholesome- 
ness may be understood from the fact, that in southern Europe, 
during its season, it makes a principal part of the food of the 
lower classes. It is very easily raised in some parts of this 
country, and immense quantities are yearly exposed for sale in 
the markets of our chief cities. Tlie plant on which it is borne, 
is a trailing annual, propagated by seed. The varieties are, as 
might be expected, numerous ; yet, comparatively few are 
worthy of the gardener's attention. The Musk, — the Nutmeg, — 
the Netted Citron, — the Gree7i-fleshed, — and the Canteloup, are 
among the best. In this connexion it may well be remarked, 
that, whatever be the variety chosen, fine fruit cannot be ob- 
tained without the exercise of considerable care and skill. 



202 GARDE.XER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Culture. — The preparation of the soil is ceitainly of the 
first importance. We prefer a loam which is dry and mellow, 
rich and deep. It is customary to add some powerful ma- 
nures, such as strong dung, guano, hen-dung, or an active com- 
post. Nearly all of the ameliorators that have been proposed, 
are objectionable to our mind, because producing a luxuriant" 
growth of vine, at the expense of tliat flavor and juiciness for 
wdiich the fruit is alone esteemed. The cultivator must then 
seek in his land fertility, rather than rankness. Perhaps, a well 
mixed compost of equal parts of loam and rotten dung, will 
answer the [)urpose. 

Melons in family gardens are most usually grown m the 
open air. Those persons who can well afford the time and 
money required, may resort to 

Forcing. — To avoid repetition, we refer the reader to the 
article on " Forcing Vegetation," as well as to the Cucumber, 
for an iaccount of the process of building a hot-bed. In the 
following directions, we shall aim to be as brief as possible. 
The plants are to be raised on a small bed, in midwinter. 
After the mold has been put on, and become warmed under 
a close sash, the seeds are to be sown in small pots, which can 
be raised in the holes wdienever the heat is too violent. The 
sowing should be repeated in four or five days, to avoid all 
chance of disappointment. Ventilation must be given at noon- 
day, and also when the steam collects upon the glass, with 
care not to reduce the temperature within too suddenly. At 
night, and when the sun shines powerfully, the glass is to be 
covered with mats, according to the coldness of the weather. 
Tepid water ought to be applied to the roots, at such times as 
the soil appears dry and hard. 

In the course of a month, the plants will be of a good size 
for their lemoval to the fruiting bed, constructed like the other 
with the exccj^tion of being much larger, and having a mound 
or hilk)ck under each sash. Those in pots can be transplanted 
most easily in the following way ; — reverse the pot, with tlie 



DICTIONARY. 203 

stem of the plant "between the fingers, and ?trikc against 
its side with a small stick, so as to loosen the ball of dirt, 
•which is then to be set in the middle of a hillock. Ni)t more 
than tv/o healthy plants should be allotted to one sa-h. To 
strengthen them, and promote the growth of fertile runners, 
the main stem should be pinched off, at the second joint, and 
the laterals at the sixth joint — when they proceed so far with- 
out showing fruit. While it is desirable to maintain the heat 
of the bed, every opportunity for ventilation must be seized. 
The medium degree of temperature is 65° until the fruit sets, 
and subsequently 76°. At first, care is to be taken to prevent 
the injurious effects of a violent heat, by substituting fresh 
mold in place of that which becomes caked, as well as by 
making large holes in the pile of dung. Linbgs wjll be needed 
in the latter part of the process, so that the plants shall not be 
checked by the decrease of artificial warmth. An occasional 
application of tepid water should be given whenever the 
earth appears parched, but with care not to wet the foliage. 
The quantity must be small, and given less frequently, as the 
plants approach maturity, for too much moisture is apt to in. 
jure the crop. Tlie glasses ought to be shaded at midday, 
and not deprived of their nocturnal covering until ail danger 
of frost be over. 

It is well to assist impregnation in the manner directed for 
the Cdcumber. Decayed leaves ought to be removed as soon 
as discovered. The fruit should be frequently examined, in 
order to pick off that which is imperfect, and to reduce the 
crop when it appears too large for one vine to mature. Many 
are accustomed to place straw or blackened shingles under the 
melons, a-iul to turn the fruit twice or thrice a week, to pre* 
Tent the lower side becoming disfigured. The time of matu' 
rity will be indicated by a fragrant smell, together with a 
crack or indentation near the stem. 

The principal difference between the hot bed culture of the 



204 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOlv. 

melon and the encumber is, tliat the first named reqnires a 
higher temperature, and more fresh air, but less moisture. 

In the open ground. — As a matter of course, it is veiy desira- 
ble to have early plants,-— particularly on account of tlieir being 
less liable to fall a prey to tlie striped bug. The cheapest and 
most convenient mode of obtaining them, is to plant the seeds 
upon small sods, and to start them into life under glass. In the 
latter part of April, or earlier according to the forwardness of 
the season, take a hot-bed frame, and place it on the ground in 
a warm, sheltered position, having a good exposure to the sun. 
Then procure some clean, mellow turf, and cut it, with the 
spade, into pieces of a regular size, each about six inches 
square. Put these in the bottom of the frame, with tlie grass 
side down. Spread rich loam upon them to the depth of an 
inch or two, and plant half a dozen seeds in each. Keep the 
sash closed in all cold or unfavorable weather, and, as soon as 
the plants are an inch high, reduce their number just one 
half, so as to leave but three in a square. Admit the air 
freely on every pleasant day, in order to secure a strong, 
healthy gi"ov,'th ; and, as they advance in size, take off the 
sash altogether, that they may be hardened for removal to the 
open compartment. Take each square up separately on a 
spade or trowel, and put it in the centre of a hill previously 
prepared for its reception. Give the plants a gentle watering, 
and they will suffer little from the change of quarters. The 
seeds vegetate finely in the grass sods, wliich decay and fur- 
nish considerable nourishment to tlie roots. The frame not 
only prevents the depredations of insects, but also guards the 
plants against the bad effects of cold winds in their early 
growth. The croj) is brought forward much sooner than that 
from the first sowing in the open air; while the gardener 
avoids all the cost and trouble of a regular hot-bed. 

Early in the month of May, preparations aie to be made 
for sowing in the open compartment. The ground is first to 
be properly dug and manured, and then to be marked out into 



DICTIOXARV. 205 

hills six feet apart cacli way. For each one a hole should be 
dug to the deptli of tifteeu inches, and of as many inches in 
diameter. About twelve inches of compost, or well rotted 
dung, are to be put at the bottom of the hole, and thoroughly 
incorporated with three inches of good, mellow loam. More 
of this loam is then to be thrown on, until the top of the hill 
shall be some four or five inches above the surface of the 
gi-ound. Nine or ten seeds are to be planted on the top, at 
the depth of half an inch ; and, at this rate, one ounce of seed 
will supply over one hundred hills. 

We are accustomed to cover the plants, as soon as they 
appear above ground, with vine-shields; by which means, 
they will not only be protected from the attacks of insects, but 
will also be materially quickened in then- growth. When the 
vine-shields are elsewhere in use, we depend upon the solu- 
tion of hen-dung, whale oil soap, or some other of those reme- 
dies that we have mentioned in the article upon the " De- 
struction OF Vermin." Without some precautionary meas- 
m"es, we should probably be obliged to make a second, or 
perhaps a third, sowing. The number of plants in a hill 
ought not to be over three, as they will bear a greater crop 
than a dozen crov/ded into so small a space. It is advisable 
to keep the soil light ajid free from weeds, and occasionally to 
draw a little up around the stems ftn- their support. If they 
appear too luxuriant, and disposed to run to vine, it may be 
well to pinch off tlie extremities of the shoots, which strength- 
ens the roots, and causes the early development of fruit-bear- 
ing laterals. The ground should be evenly covered with the 
foliage, so that every leaf may have a fair exp(»sure to tJje 
light. Keep the fruit from being injured by Iving on the ground. 
Putting slates or blackened shingles under it will hasten its ma- 
turity, by attracting the sun's rays. It loses much of ita 
luscious flavor, by being suffered to become dead ripe bef»)re 
being picked. 

Beed — ought to be saved from none but tlie l>est fruit. 
18 



206 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Wash them from the pulp in a vessel of clean water, and skim 
off all the light ones that float on the surface. Dry the rest, 
and keep them in small paper bags. It should ahvays be 
borne in mind, that where the different membeis of the cucum- 
ber family and their many varieties are grown in close com- 
panionship, intermixture and degeneracy must unavoidably- 
follow. Keep them as far apai't as the limits of your territory 
will admit. The seed will continue good for several years. 

Use. — It has long been understood, that as a palatable and 
wholesome article of food, the melon maintains a high rank 
among fruits. It is generally eaten with sugar, salt or pepper, 
but in France it is also served up as a sauce for boiled meats 
We add the following receipt for making 

Mangoes.— ^The melons should be picked late in the season. 
Cut a small, square hole in the side of each, and take out the 
seeds. Wash the melons clean, and soak them for thiee or 
four days in salt and water. Then sprinkle them on tlie in- 
side with powdered cloves, pepper and nutmeg ; and till them 
with cinnamon, string beans, mustard seed, small stiips of 
horse-radish, etc. Insert the small pieces tliat were cut out a 
few days previous, and keep them in their places by strips of 
cloth. Then put the melons in a stone jar, which is to be kept 
closely covered, and turn scalding hot vinegar over them. 

Melon, (Water).— &e WATER-MELON. 
ini^T.— Mentha. 

According to the poets, a daughter of Cocytus, called 
Minth.e, was transformed into mint by Proserpme in a fit of 
jealousy. This is one of the small herbs of which the Jewish 
law did not require tithes, but the Pharisees were desiroi;s of 
distinguishing themselves by a "tithe of mint, anise and cum- 
Hiiij," while they omitted tlie weightier matters of judgment, 



DICTIONARY. 207 

mercy and faith. The genus is extensive, comprising about 
sixty species. Tliose cultivated in gardens are, — the Penny- 
royal, (J/, pulegiicm) ; — the Peppermint, (J/, piperita) ; — and 
the Spear-mint, (Jtf. viridis.) 

CuLTURK. — Tlie species mentioned above are all cultivated 
in the same way. They are best pleased with a fertile and 
moist soil, of rather a tenacious character. Propagation is 
easily effected by slips or cuttings of the stalks, and by offsets 
or divisions of old roots, planted in rows nine inches apart each 
way, somewhere about the middle of spring. If the operation 
be not performed in cloudy weather, or when there is a pros- 
pect of rain, water should bj given plentifully at the time. 
The ground must be kept quite mellow, and free from weeds, 
or, otherwise, the plants will be likely to receive a serious 
check in their growth. The tops are to be cut for drying, as 
soon as the flower-buds open, and on a pleasant day, because 
if cut in damp weather, the leaves will turn black. They are 
to be dried in a shady place, or in front of a fire ; and either 
hung up in bundles, or powdered and kept in tightly-corked 
bottles. When the tops become too old for use, they may 
not be cut down until October, when the bed should receive a 
small top-dressing of dung or rich soil. A plantation will 
continue in bearing for five or six seasons, but to ensure a full 
supply, a ne\7 one ought to be made every three years. 

Use. — The green and dry leaves of the spear-mint are 
used in salads, soups and sauces, as well as in that popular 
American drink, the mint julep. Pennyroyal is occasionally 
employed in cooking ; while the distilled waters of the pep- 
permint, both simple and spirituous, are much esteemed for 
their medicinal virtues. They all partake of the tonic and 
stmiulating properties found in labiate plants, and have a 
warm, aromatic taste. 



208 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Jfint Sauce. — After washing the leaves and chopping them 
up in very small pieces, put them Avith vinegar and sugar. 

MUSHROOM. — Agaricus campestris. 

The genus Agaricus is undoubtedly the most extensive in 
the whole vegetable kingdom. Some of the species are much 
esteemed for food, while others possess very deleterious quali- 
ties. The one cultivated in gardens is thus described by Lou- 
don ; — " The mushroom is a well known native vegetable, 
springing up in open pastm'es in August and September. It 
is most readily distinguished, when of middle size, by its fine 
pink or flesh-colored gills and pleasant smell ; in a more ad- 
vanced stage, the gills become of a chocolate color, and it is 
then more apt to be confounded with other kinds of dubious 
quality ; but that species which most nearly resembles it, is 
slimy to the touch, and destitute of the fine odor, having 
rather a disagreeable smell ; further, the noxious kind grows 
in woods, or on the margins of woods, while the true mush- 
room springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gath- 
ered only in such places." 

CuLTiTRE. — Tliis branch of gardening is gradually becoming 
better understood. The mushroom has long been cultivated 
in Europe for culinary purposes, but in this country it is not 
by any means extensively known. In the outskirts of New- 
York, we have noticed many large beds and houses devoted 
exclusively to its production, for sale at market or at French 
eating-houses. The process is so simple, that we consider the 
attention of the family gardener may well be drawn to the 
subject. 

The mushroom is propagated by spawn, which resembles 
pieces of fine white thread, and is collected in old pastures, or 
other places where the fungi abound. Tlie following is the 
mode practised by seedsmen of making spawn for sale : — A 



DICTIOXARY. 209 

quantity of fresh horse-dung, mixed with short litter, is com- 
posted with one third part of cow-dung, and a small portion of 
good loam. This compost is cut up into bricks, which are to 
be set on edge, and frequently turned, until they become half 
dry. Then a couple of holes are to be made in each, by means 
of the dibble, and in each hole is to be put a piece of spawn 
as large as a walnut. "When the bricks are dry, they shall be 
piled upon a layer of dry horse-dung, six inches thick, and 
covered with sufficient fresh dung to produce a gentle heat 
through the whole. As soon as the spawn has spread itself 
through the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be 
stored in a dry place, where they will preserve their vegeta- 
tive powers for many years. 

Beds for the culture of mushrooms are constructed in seve- 
ral different ways. Sometimes they are in the open air, when 
they require a covering of boards to prevent injury from cold 
or wet weather ; at other times, in boxes or baskets, in pits or 
frames, in sheds or moderately warm cellars ; and again, in 
mushroom houses. The latter are decidedly the best, when the 
necessary expense may be justified. They are sheds built in 
a dry place, ten feet wide, and of any length desired. A walk 
runs through the centre, so as to accommodate a bed on each 
side of four feet in width. 

In the first place, it is necessary to procure a sufficient 
quantity of good horse-dung, and make it up into a heap, 
wliich must be turned frequently to induce regular fermenta- 
tion. In a fortnight all the rankness will probably have 
escaped, when it will be time to build the bed. The dung 
should be well shaken by the fork, and built up with perpen- 
dicular sides to the height of twelve inches, and then gradually 
drawn to the centre like the roof of a building. In a mush- 
room house, the beds should be three feet higli on the back 
side, sloping towards the walk. Every forkful is to be well 
beaten into its place, so that the sided of the bed be even and 

18* 



210 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

firm. Cover the dung with long straw or litter, in order to 
exclude frost and prevent the escape of the volatile gases. 

In the course of ten days, or a fortnight, the temperature 
will be sufficiently reduced, and the covering is to be removed 
in order that one inch of fine loam may be laid upon the dung. 
On this plant the spawn, which has been broken into pieces of 
the size of a walnut, in rows six inches apart each way. Put 
on a second inch of mold, which, after being beaten smooth by 
the spade, must be protected by the covering of straw. "Where 
the bed is in the open air, it will need mats during stormy 
weather. Guard against the extremes of heat and cold, and 
of drought and moisture. A medium temperature is probably 
somewhere about 60°. The covering of straw must vary in 
thickness from three to twenty- four inches, according to circum- 
stances. When the mold appears too dry, a gentle applica- 
tion of tepid water should be given in the morning ; in sum- 
mer, this may be necessary every other day, but in winter 
perhaps once a month. After each watering, the covering 
ought not to be replaced for some fifty or sixty minutes. 

If the operation be successful, young mushrooms may be 
expected in about five or six weeks after the date of spawn- 
ing, although, from a variety of causes, the time is frequently 
much longer. Where the bed has been kept too hot and 
moist, the spawn may have been destroyed ; but, in many 
cases, it requires only a little extra warmth, or a gentle sprink- 
ling of water, to produce a generous crop. In gathering mush- 
Yooms, after the straw has been removed, each one is drawn 
up by a gentle twist of the fingers, and the hole is then filled 
with earth. A -knife ought never to be en)ployed, because the 
etumps left in the ground become nurseries of maggots, which 
pnove very destructive to the succeeding growth. 

Use. — Mushrooms are considered a great delicacy by epi- 
cures. They are boiled, stewed, pickled, or dried. When re- 
duced to powder, and kept in close bottles, they are very use- 



DICTIONARY. 211 

fill at those seasons when they cannot be gathered fresh. The 
catsup sold in stores is said to be made from the juice of mush- 
rooms, seasoned with salt and spices. 

To stew Mushrooms. — Cut off the lower part of the stems, 
which are apt to have an earthy taste. Peel the other parts 
and put tliem into a saucepan, with only enough water to pre- 
vent their burning to the bottom. Add a little salt, and shake 
the dish occasionally. They should be stewed slowly imtil 
quite tender, when just before taking up, add also butter and 
pepper, with spices and wine if desired. Serve on buttered 
toast 

To pickle Mushrooms. — They must first be peeled, and 
stewed in a very little water, — the pan being shaken occa- 
sionally. Take them up when tender, and put them in scald- 
ing hot vinegar, which is spiced with mace, cloves and pepper- 
corns. Add a little salt before b<^)ttling. 

Mushroom Catsup. — Pat the fresh mushrooms in a deep 
dish, and upon each layer sprinkle a little salt. After they 
have remained thus for several days, mash them fine, and to 
each quart add one tablespoonful of black pepper, and one 
quarter teaspoonful of cloves. Put tlie whole into a stone jar, 
which is set in a vessel of boiling water, and let them boil for 
two hours. At the end of tliat time, the juice is to be strained 
without pressure, and boiled for fifteen minutes, all scum that 
vises being carefully removed. When the catsup is well 
settled, it should be turned through a sieve, bottled and corked 
tight Keep it in a cool place. 

mj^T A.'&D.—Sinapis. 

Two species of this well known plant are cultivated in tMfe 
kitchen garden, viz, : the White {S. alba), and the Black {S. 
mgra), both of which are annuals and natives of Europe. 
Commentators upon the Bible seem divided in opinion, in re- 
gard to the identity of this herb with the mustard spoken of 



212 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

by our Blessed Lord, the seed of which is represented as " the 
least of all seeds," but is yet capable of producing a tree so 
large that " the birds of the air come and lodge in the branches 
thereof." Some writers contend that reference was made to 
an entirely different plant, while others believe tliat this ex- 
traordinary size may be attributed to the difference in climate 
and soil. Our garden herb has been cultivated for many 
centuries. The seed, which is an article of commerce, waa 
first imported from Egypt. 

Culture. — In selecting the spot for a bed, choose a loam 
which is deep and mellow, as well as moist and fertile. In 
the summer season, it is desirable to have a situation that is 
shaded during the middle of the day ; but at other times, the 
bed ought to have the full benefit of the sun, and be protected 
on the north from cold winds. 

Fo7' salads. — The seed may be sown at all seasons of the 
year ; — in the open air, when the weather will permit, or else 
in gentle hot-beds, or in boxes kept in warm windows. The 
seed is put very thickly in shallow drills, about four inches 
apart, and covered with fine mold to the depth of one third of 
an inch. The sowing must be repeated every week or two, 
according to the supply of leaves required. A proper degree 
of moisture appears to b© very essential to quick germination, 
and, therefore, a generous sprinkling of water is to be given, 
"when the sowing is not followed by showers. In the course of 
a few days, the plants will be of a suitable siae for cutting, — 
"which is a much better mode of gathering them, than to pull 
them up by your fingers. Tliey ought to be used soon 
after being picked, and be carefully washed from dirt and 
^rit before taken to the table. 

JPor the production of seed, — as well for its use in the man- 
ufacture of ground mustard, as for subsequent sowings, the 
bed must be made in the middle of spring. Tlie soil should 
be deep and mellow. Sow tliinly in drills eighteen inches 



DICTIONARY. 213 

apart When the plants have attained the fourth leaf, they 
are to be Avell hoed, and thinned to the distance of ten or 
twelve inches in the drill During the season, the ground must 
be frequently stirred, and kept free from weeds. Should the 
weather be dry at the time tlie flowers open, water may be 
appUed to the roots with advantage. The pods are to be col- 
lected when they change color, but not tlu'eshed until they 
become perfectly dry. 

Use. — Tlie leaves and seeds of both species are used for 
salads, pickles, and the manufacture of ground mustard; 
although for the latter purpose the black species is generally 
considered preferable. The seeds of both have valuable medic- 
inal properties, in cases of rheumatism, palsy and asthma, 
and are of common use in emetics and poultices. Grround 
mustard as a condiment is spoken of highly by physicians, as 
it warms the stomach, creates an appetite, and strengthens the 
digestive organs. 

NASTim.TnjM.—See INDIAN CRESS. 

NEW ZEALAND SPIN ACR.—Tetraffonia expansa. 

A large, spreading plant, the native country of which is suf- 
ficiently indicated by its name. It was carried to England by 
Sir Joseph Banks, and it has been introduced into this country 
within a few years, as a substitute for the common spinach. It 
proves to be a valuable addition to our gardens. The flavor 
of the leaves is excellent, and there is this additional advant- 
age attending its cultivation, viz. : that it will flourish through 
a severe drought, when other vegetables are nearly destroyed 
by the heat. This is a very important consideration. 

Culture. — The success of plants grown for their succulent 
leaves, depends more upon the character of the soil, than upon 



214 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

the degree of skill and care which may be manifestod in the other 
details of their cultivation. F<jr the New Zealand spinach we 
would prefer a bed of mellow loam, that is deep and has been 
made rich by the liberal application of manure. The situation 
should be open. Sow in the months of Apiil or May, accord- 
ing to the forwardness of the season, in drills two feet apart. 
The seeds should be dropped thinly along the drill, — say six 
inches asunder, and covered with fine mold to the depth of one 
inch. Should the seeds all vegetate, the plants would be too 
much Crowded, and they must be thinned out to distances of at 
least twenty inches. Those which are taken up may be set out 
in another bed. By keeping the ground well tilled, not only 
for the benefit to be derived from atmospheric influences, but 
also to prevent the encroachments of weeds, the plants will 
grow very luxm'iantly. The number required for a family t>f 
moderate size is not large. 

Use. — Besides tlie use to be made of the leaves like com- 
mon spinach, the green seeds are excellent for pickhng pur- 
poses. From the fact that the plant suffers but little inconve- 
nience from hot weather, it seems well adapted to the notice of 
the reader. 

OKRA. — Ilibiseus eseulentus. 

The okra plant is an annual from the West Indies, where 
it is held in high esteem for use in soups and stews. It is fre- 
quently known under the name of Gumbo, and attains a height 
of four or five feet. It has not been much cultivated in thid 
country until within a very few years, but it is now gradually 
acquiring popularity, in consequence of an impression that it is 
particularly wliolesome. We do not rank it among the fancy 
vegetables, but think it eminently worthy of a place in every 
family garden. Those who make use of it one season, will not 
afterwards be willingly Avitliout it. 



DICTIONARY. 215 

CoLTURE. — Sow the seeds rather thickly, in drills three feet 
apart. The proper time for doing this, is in the first part of 
May, when the weather becomes settled, and about the usual 
period for planting Indian corn. The most congenial soil is 
rich and light, warm and dry. Cover the seed nearly an inch 
deep. Should the plants be destroyed by late frost, do not 
hesitate to make a second sowing. But, when they are consid- 
ered out of all danger, they are to be thinned to distances of 
ten or twelve inches in the drill. Keep the ground mellow, 
and occasionally draw a little up around the stalks, to steady 
them against the wind. Under proper management, they will 
grow four or five feet high, and bear abundantly. The pods are 
best for use, when in a green state, and so tender as to snap 
easily ; in fa,ct, they are worthless when they become old and 
tougk Cooks who are not as well acquainted with this fact 
as they should be, may perhaps think that the excellence of 
the vegetable is much over estimated. 

Use. — The young pods are excellent, if boiled and served 
with butter, and seasoned with a little pepper, salt and nut- 
meg ; but they are most valued for the rich flavor they impai't 
to soups, stews and sauces. It is said that the rijx3 seeds, after 
being properly roasted, form a very good substitute for coffee. 
Tlie pods are easily preserved for use tlirougli the whole year, 
by being cut into narrow rings or slices, and then dried. Spread 
tJie slices on a board, or else put them in strings like dried ap- 
ple. Keep them in paper bags. If picked wlien they are 
tender and juicy, they will be as good in winter as though 
fresh.. 

Griimho. — -Take equal quantities of the oki-a, chopped fine, 
and ripe tomatoes, which have been skinned, a sliced onion, a 
small piece of butter, together with salt and pepper to the 
taste ; and stew the whole until tender, iu a st«w-pan, with a 
tablespoonful of 'yater. 



216 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

ONION, — Allium cepa. 

NotAvithstanding the many nice objections raised by orer- 
fastidious people, to the use of the onion in the cuhnary de- 
partment, it may justly be considered one of the most import- 
ant vegetables, as well on account of its antiquity and general 
dissemination, as of its value for domestic purposes. The name 
onion is a corruption of unio, by which word the bulb is known 
In the Latin language. It came originally from Asia, and is 
desn>bed by modern travellers as growing plentifully in Egypt, 
"where, on account of its mildness and easiness of digestion, it 
can be eat "-n with more satisfaction than in any other country. 
We read in Scripture that the discontented Israelites, in pass- 
ing through tlib desert, murmured against the provisions of 
G6d, and lamcntea <be loss of "tlie leeks, and the onions, and 
the garlic," to which thoy had been accustomed. The Egypt- 
ians are even reproachea with the worship of the Alliwn tribe j 
thus Juvenal says : — 

" How Egypt, mad witK superstition grown. 
Makes gods of monsters, but too well is known. 
'Tis mortal sin an onion ti^ devour ; 
Each clove of garlic has a sa'^red power. 
Religious nation, sure ! and ble^t abodes, 
Where ev'ry garden is o'errun wii^ gods !" 

The onion has been cultivated in this country since its first 
.settlement, and in some sections very extensively for exporta- 
tion. The inhabitants of Wetliersfield, in Connecti*"ut, a few 
miles distant from Hartford, are celebrated for their sk'W and 
success in this department of rural labor. Large tracts oi Vand 
are devoted to this single crop, giving a comfortable support Co 
quite a number of families. Much of the labor is performed 
by women and children, which, of course, diminishes the cost 
of cultivation and increases the profit. The best varieties fo? 



DICTIONARY. 217 

a family garden, are thought to be — the New England Whiter 
— the Yellow Strasburgh, — the Bed Dutch, — and the Silver- 
gkinned. The latter is excellent for pickling. 

Culture. — The onion needs a light, rich soil, founded upon 
a dry substratum, and having a free, open exposure. In this 
plant we find an exception to the general necessity for a rota- 
tion of crops, as experience has demonstrated, that the onion 
can be grown on the same spot of ground for three quarters of 
a century, or more, without any apparent diminution in the 
produce. This fact, however, by no means affects the princi- 
ple, or the philosophy, of rotation ; because every one will 
admit that were it possible to restore to the land what is ab- 
stracted by a crop, economically as well as conveniently, the 
same grain or vegetable might be raised in one particular lo- 
cality until the end of time. As the onion does not take much 
from the soil, which may not be returned to it by annual appli- 
cations of manure, there is no necessity for alternating it with 
other vegetables. If the soil be poor, it ought to be deeply 
spaded in the autumn, enriched by a liberal application: of well 
rotted dung, and thrown into ridges for exposure to. the weatb-- 
er. In the spring, it may, peihap=», be well to give it a small 
dressing of the dung takun from an old hot-bed, or some rich 
compost. Indeed, many persons think there is but little dan- 
ger of making it too rich. It should be bonie in mind, how- 
ever, that fresh dung is apt to breed maggots, and engender 
decay in the bulbs. 

When tlie weather becomes settled in the middle of spring, 
it will bi' time to get the ground in readiness for the reception 
of the seed. The surface should be raked; smooth,' with care to 
pulverize all the clods which may have escaped the spade. 
The best bulbs are grown upon a liard bottom, and it is, there- 
fore, advisable to roll the bed, or to beat it gently with the back- 
of the spade. Draw drills onef(M)t apart, so shallow as to be 
nothing more than mere i^iides for sowing the seed regularly. 
19 



218 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Sow moderately thick, because it is difficult to thin the plants 
where they are much crowded, without doing them injury, A 
smgle ounce of seed will be quite enough for one rod of land. 
Cover the drills with a very little mellow dirt, and either tread 
them down with the feet, or smooth the whole surface by walk- 
ing upon a board. After this has been done, many gardeners 
ai'e accustomed to strew upon the bed a tliin layer of sand, 
ashes, or soot, especially if the soil be stiff ratlier tlian light. 
Tlie operation of sowing ought always to be performed in dry, 
pleasant weather. 

The bed will require considerable attention at the begin* 
ning of the season. When the plants are three inches high, 
they are to be reduced in the drill to distances of two inches 
apart. Onions intended for pickling should stand thickly, in 
order to bring them early to maturity, as well as to prevent 
their attaining too large a growth. By performing this oper- 
ation in damp, cloudy weather, the superfluous plants can be 
set out in another bed. As soon as they again crowd each 
other, they must receive a second thinning, so as to stand 
about four or five inches apart. Those which are pulled, can 
be carried to the kitchen, where they will be gladly welcomed 
for their small size and agreeable flavor. We must assure the 
reader, that onions and weeds do not agree well when culti- 
vated together in the same bed. It is not necessary to stir the 
ground deeply, nor to bring it up around the plants ; cither of 
which would prevent the proper growth of the bulbs. Indeed, 
so objectionable is the hoe after the onions have once got ftiirly 
started, it is much the best plan to throw it aside, and make 
use of the fingers in keeping the drills clean. 

Should there be danger of the crop running too much to 
blade, it may be advisable, in the latter part of July, to check 
the growth of the tops, and to throw the vigor of the roots 
into the development of the bulbs. This is very important 
with a late crop or in any case where there appears to be an 
undue luxuriance. It is effected by bending over the stems 



DICTIONARY. 219 

at the height of one or two inches above the bulbs. It may 
be done most easily by means of a hoe handle, drawn over the 
drills, from one end of the bed to tlie other. 

The maturity of the crop will be indicated by the change 
of color in the stems. When the onions are drawn, they must 
not be housed immediately ; but, on the contrary, be exposed 
to the sun for several days, being turned frequently, until they, 
become dry and hard. They may then be separated from the 
roots and tops, previous to being spread upon the floor of a 
well-ventilated loft ; or they can be strung in ropes, to -be 
hung up until wanted for use, or carried to mai-ket for sale. 
It will be necessary to examine them often during the winter, 
to avoid loss by moisture, which causes decay, or by warmth, 
which promotes vegetation. 

Where the cultivator desires larger onions than can be ma- 
tured in a single season, under the course of culture above 
described, he must take up the bulbs at midsummer, to be 
planted in the following spring. The seed is tA^ sown thickly, 
and the young plants are to be kept free from weeds. By 
the middle of July, the bulbs will be about the size of small 
cranberries, and are then to be raised, dried, and stored in a 
dry, airy loft. In the next April, they shall be planted in 
ground whicli has been properly dug and manured, in drills 
one foot distant from each other. The beds should be well 
rolled, and the bulbs are to be set merely on the surface, 
without being covered with earth. The subsequent cultivation, 
— in the sliape of weeding, storing, &,c., — is identical with that 
of the crop harvested in the same year in which sown. 

Far seed, — some of the best onions are to be planted in 
early spring, upon a bed of light, ricli soil, and in rows some 
eighteen inches apart each way. They should be inserted so 
deep that the crowns are barely covered. The flower-stalks 
will need support, lest they should be broken down by violent 
windo. As soon as the seed ripens, the heads are to be gath- 



220 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

ered, and laid on a clotli to dry. The seed is best preserved 
in a cool, dry apartment. 

Use. — Onions are known to afford considerable nourish- 
ment. When boiled, they seldom disagree with the healthy 
stomach, and, as a general thing, may be thought wholesome. 
The P'rench introduced onion soup as a restorative after any 
unusual fatigue. Sir John Sinclair said, " It is a well known 
fact, that a Highlander with a few raw onions in his pocket, and 
a crust of bread or bit of cake, can work or travel to an almost 
incredible extent for two or three days together, witliout any 
other food." When eaten raw, they taint the breath consider- 
ably, but this difficulty may be partially overcome, by eating 
a few raw leaves of parsley directly after the onions. When 
roasted, they are sometimes employed as a poultice for tu- 
mors. The expressed juice is given as an expectorant in 
coughs, and is rubbed on the skin to remove blotches or the 
stings of insectsS- It would be a difficult matter to enumerate 
all the virtues which have been ascribed to this popular bulb. 
It is chiefly valuable in the family gai'den, however, for culi- 
nary purposes. Boiling renders it much more wholesome, and 
deprives it, in a great degree, of its strong taste and sraeli. 
Used in the raw state, it is not easily digested, and frequently 
remains in the stomach for a day or two. When roasted or 
fried, it is quite as objectionable, and must be eaten sparingly, 
if at all. It is a great favorite for seasoning dishes, particu- 
larly with the French cook. 

To boil. — Peel the onions, and put them into boiling milk, 
or milk and water mixed. When they become tender, they 
are to be taken from the fire, salted, and served with melted 
butter. Changing- the water when they are about half-boiled^ 
relieves them of much of their strong flavor. 

To pickle. — Peel the onions, and boil tliem for ten minVites 
in milk and water. To one gallon of vinegar, put one half 
ounce of cinnamon and mace, one quarter ounce of cloves, one- 



DICTIONARY. 

bait ounce of alum, together with a small teacuptul of salt. 
The spiced vinegar is to be lieated, and turned, when scalding 
hot, upon the onions, after they have been drained from the 
milk and water. Cover them tiglit until they become cold. 

Onion Sauce. — Take peeled onions, boil them till quite 
tender, and then press out the water which they have absorbed. 
Chop tliem fine, add butter melted in milk, and place the dish 
again upon the fire. 

Oxiox, (Potato).— &e POTATO ONIOK 

ONioy, (Tree).— ^ee TREE ONION. 

PARSLEY. — Apium petroselinunu 

Parsley is a well known biennial, of hardy constitution, and 
a native of Sardinia. It is found growing wild in many differ- 
ent climates. Aside from the excellent properties for which 
it is esteemed in the culinary department, it makes a very or- 
nameo.fal appearance in the garden. There appear to be three 
varieties, viz. : — the Cont//ion, — the Carl-leaved, — and the -Sam- 
burgk. The first named is most generally cultivated, although 
the second is distinguished by tlie superior beauty of its leaves. 
Where the plant is used for its seasoning qualities alone, as in 
soups and stews, it matters little which may be the particulr^r 
variety ; but, for garnishiag, the Oitrled-leaoed is preferable. 
The Hamburph is valued for its root, which is tender and pala- 
table ; it is cultivated aad prepared for the table in the same 
way a-5 the parsnip. 

Culture. — Plants are obtained from seed, an ounce of 
which will sow about one and a half rods of grourid. They 
may be raised in a bed by themselves, but they make a very 
pretty ed.^ing for the walks. In the first case, it will be nec- 
essary to sow in drills one foot apart, rather before the mid- 
dle of spring. Tlie seed should be dropped moderately thick, 
19* 



222 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

and covered to the depth of half an inch. It vegetates sIoTflj, 
sometimes not under a month, and it would be a g-ood plan to 
steep it for twelve hours, either in wann water, or in sulphur- 
water. Tliis steeping, together with an occasional application 
of water in dry times, will greatly expedite the process of 
germination. 

It is often fonnd, that where tlie plants are dilatory in 
showing themselves above ground, the weeds have opportu- 
nity to take undistm-bed possession. No effort should be 
spared to prevent the settlement of these intruders, for which 
labor the gardener will derive much benefit from the tluimb 
and forefinger, that are able to work in the drill where the 
hoe might occasion daniage. The plants may be gathered as 
wanted for use, as soon as they are two inches liigh ; at about 
which time, they ought to be thinned out to distances of six 
inches in the row. Where they seem disposed to grow too 
rankly, it is advisable to cut them down, in order to secure the 
formation of new shoots. If the cultivator wishes to raise 
none other tl^an the Curled-leaved variety, he must be careful 
to eradicate every i-oot of the Common, or plain-leaved, as 
quick as it appears in the bed. 

Parsley may be grown for winter use, with very little 
trouble. The plants are to be cut down to the ground, in the 
first part of autumn, in ordei' that new heads may grow before 
the approach of severe frost. They will grow well under a 
covering of straw, litter or evergreen branches ; or in a rough 
board box ; but a cold frame is better than any other kind ol 
protection. In this way, continued supplies of fresh leaves 
can be obtained during extreme cold weather. 

For seed, — permit some of the largest and best looking 
plants to throw up flower-stalks. They ought not to be closely 
crowded. The seed should be well dried, before any attempt 
is made to thresh it. 

Use. — The aromatic leaves are thought highl}^ of, for sea- 



DICTIONARY. 223 

eoning various dishes, in addition to their value as a garnish, 
A few, eaten raw, will remove the unpleasant taste and smell 
of onions. When they cannoi be obtained fresh throughout 
the year, a supply can be gathered in summer, dried before 
the fire, broken fine by being rubbed between the hands, and 
put in tight bottles. They have a high reputation in Holland 
for the cure of the dropsy. Among other curious properties 
ascribed to the plant, it is said to poison bhds who eat of it, 
and sometimes to occasion epilepsy. 

PARSNIP. — Pastinaca sativa. 

According to Johnson, the botanic name, Pastinaca, is de- 
rived from the Latin word for a dibble, pastinum, m allusion 
to the long, tapering shape of the root. This is a very hardy 
biennial, of which the original is probably the common wild 
parsnip of southern Europe. In its natural state, it is of small 
size, woody and poisonous. It has been greatly improved by 
cultivation, and is at the present time much esteemed for 
culinary purposes, being found nutritious as well as whole- 
some. It is particularly valuable on account of its power of 
standing severe frost without injury, and continuing goo^^br 
use until the latter part of spring. The varieties are no^iu- 
merous, and the Hollow-crowned is undoubtedly the best adapt- 
ed to the wants of the family gardener. 

Culture. — In regard to soil, the parsnip has a preference 
for one that is dry and mellow, rich and of considerable depth. 
A good sandy loam seems to be most suitable ; while only 
poor crops can be expected from a gravel ov tenacious clay. 
Depth and fertility are particularly necessary, because thereon 
depend the length and size of the roots, In the latter part of 
autumn, or the very commencement of spring, the ground se- 
lected for the bed should be spaded or trenched two spits 
deep; and, if it be not sufficiently rich, some well decomposed 



224 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

manure ought to be dug in Avith the lower spit. Sea-weed, 
decayed forest leaves and bird's-dung, have been highly rec- 
ommended as fertilizers, as being less liable to aliect the 
quality of the roots, than common stable dung. In spading, 
care is to be taken to break up all the clods or large lumps of 
dirt, and to remove the largest stones. 

Sow in drills, twelve inches apart, in April or May, accord- 
ing to the forwardness of the season. One ounce of seed is 
sufficient for rather more than a rod of ground. Drop the 
seed thinly, and cover it nearly an inch deep. In dry weather, 
vegetation will be hastened by rolling the surface of the bed, 
or by treading down the drills with the feet. When the plants 
have taken a good start, they are to be weeded and thinned 
out in the drills ; but, it is not until they become fumly es- 
tablisi^hed, that they sliall receive their final thinning. To en- 
sure the formation of large roots, they ought to have plenty 
of room, and stand not nearer together than six inches. It is 
a bad plan to crowd vegetables hke the carrot and parsnip. 
Make frequent use of the hoe, as well to keep the ground free 
from weeds, as to prevent its becoming hard or baked. 

Parsnips do not attain maturity until cold weather is near 
at hand. They will be found fit for use as soon as the leaves 
decay, in the month of October, but their sweetness and agree- 
able flavor are much improved by frost. This fact is so well 
understood, that many cultivators are accustomed to let the 
roots remain in tlie bed through the winter ; or, at least, to 
take up only a number sufficient for the wants of the family 
while the ground is closed, and to harvest the balance of the 
crop in the spring. They ought to be dug very carefully, 
witliout being cut or bruised by the spade any more than is 
miavoidable ; and, for preservation, must be packed in layers 
of sand, in a shed or cool cellar. 

For seed. — Some of the best plants should be left in the 
bed where grown ; or else set out in a border, some time during 
the early part of spring. They ought to be in rows, about two 



DICTIONARY. 225 

feet apart each way. In continued dry weather, it will be 
found of advantage to apply water every three or four days. 
Lay the flower-lieads upon a cloth, and suffer them to get 
fully dry, before you attempt to thresh out the seed. 

Use. — The parsnip has many valuable qualities, which 
commend it to both the farmer and the gardener. It is thousrht 
highly of for feeding to domestic animals. Hogs and bullocks 
are fattened upon it in a very short space of time, and the flesh 
is considered of superior flavor ; while in cows it produces an 
extraordinary yield of milk, having a rich color, and affording 
butter of an excellent quality. Its character in the kitchen is 
well established. Although disliked by some persons on ac- 
count of its peculiar sweetish taste, it is certainly wholesome, 
and proves very acceptable at that season of tlie year when 
in perfection, and when other vegetables are so few in number. 
It excites appetite, and physicians think it wholesome for con- 
valescents. It is sometimes manufactured into ardent spirits, 
wine and marmalade ; while in Ireland, it is used with hops 
for brewing a kind of beer much liked by the pea-gantry. The 
seeds are occasionally employed in intermittent fevers. 

To boil. — "Wash and split the roots, lay them in a ^w- 
pan with the flat sides down, and just cover them with boiling 
water, into which a little salt has been tin-own. When they 
are quite tender, pare and butter them, and carry immediately 
to the table. Cold boiled parsnips are good, when cut into 
tliin slices, dipped into butter, and fried brown. 

PEA. — Pisum sativum. 

The ori-inal locality of tliis hardy annual seems to be un- 
known. It has been cultivated in India, China and Japan, 
for many centuries, and was introduced into this countrv at 
the time of its first settlement. It probably went to Great 
Britain iVo:;i Italy. In the reign of Queen Elizabetli, the most 



22-6 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

delicate varieties were brought from Holland, aud Fuller ob- 
serves that they were " fit dainties for ladies, they came so far, 
and cost so dear." At the present day, the pea is very exten- 
sively diffused, and is well known as one of the most impor- 
tant culinary plants. The varieties are numerous, differing in 
stature, productiveness, the color of the flowers, and the tune' 
of ripening. We mention several of the choicest kinds, being 
such as we can recommend to the notice of the reader. Each 
one has some distinguishhig feature which makes it worthy of 
cultivation, yet no more than four or five out of the list will 
be wanted in a small family garden. There is much deception 
practised in selling peas for seed, and the inexperienced pur- 
chaser will be very likely to discover a great similarity in the 
character of his crops. One variety is sometimes known under 
two or three names. This should be a caution to the reader 
to buy of those persons only, who have a reputation to sustain 
for honesty and fair dealing. 

We enumerate — the Prince Albert, — the Cedo Nulli, — 
LandreilCs Extra Early, — the Early Frame, — the Early War- 
wick, — Bishop's Dwarf, — the Charlton, — the Blue Imperial, — 
Woodford s Marrow, — the Divarf Sugar, — and Knight'.'i Dwarf 
a,ini^Vrinkled Marrows. If the reader desire a longer list, we 
imm, refer him to some seedsman who raises new varieties for 
sale. Those above mentioned are all excellent for the kitchen. 
The Prince Albert is the earliest sort with which we are 
acquainted, and should be sown for the first crop. The others 
are aiiauged in nearly their order of coming to maturity. The 
Dwarf- ISuyar peas are eaten with the pods, like string-beans. 

Culture. — The dwarf kinds are best pleased with a soil 
that is light, di-y, and moderately rich ; while those of a lofty 
growth need a loam of greater depth and fertility. Where it 
is rank, the cultivator will find himself rejDaid by a very luxu- 
riant set of vine's, but the crop will be small. Tlie application 
of fresh dung at the time of sowing, or shortly previous thereto, 



DICTIONARY. 2Tf^ 

is positively injurious. Only well decomposed manure or 
compost should be given at that season of the year ; and, after 
all, it IS decidedly the best way, to select such ground as Is iu 
good condition after a crop, having been enriched some months 
previous. 

Forcing under glass is often resorted to, but the majority 
of family gardeners are content with open air crops. To 
have green peas as early as possible in the season is, of course, 
very desirable ; and there is frequently found, among persons 
living in the same neighborhood, a good-natured rivalry in ob- 
taining the quickest returns. Many are in the habit of raising 
early plants on a gentle hot-bed, or even in a simple cold 
frame, to be transferred to the open ground as soon as it can 
be done with safety. The peas are sown in long, narrow boxes, 
formed of two boards put together in the shape of the letter 
V. The germs will be speedily roused into action under the 
glass, and, as the season advances, they must be gradually 
hardened, that they may not suffer injury from being trans- 
planted. By taking off one end of the box, the earth, toge* 
ther with the young plants, can be ea?;ily pushed into the drill 
prepared for their reception. If done carefully, the roots will 
not experience the least inconvenience from the change. This 
simple process will hasten the crop many days. 

The first sowing in the open air, should be in March, as 
6oon as the frost leaves the ground, and there is a prospect of 
continued pleasant weather. Successive plantations can be 
made every fortnight or three weeks thereafter, until the 
middle of August, but the heat of summer is so unfavorable to 
the young vines that the sowings are often interrupted at the 
end of 'May, and resumed somewhere about the beginning of 
August. By doing this, the table can be kept supplied for 
several months together. 

The earliest sowings in the open air should be in the 
warmest part of the garden, in beds having the full benefit of 
the sun's ray.", but, at the same time, sheltered from cold winds 



GAUBENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

"which might retard vegetation. The border on the east or 
soutli side of a fence, is an excellent situation. Sow moder- 
ate!/ thick — say from an inch and a half to two inches asunder, 
•—in drills, whicli are four feet apart for the dwarf varieties^ 
and five or six feet apart for the other kinds. "With some of 
the dwarfs the distance might be even less; the Bishop's 
Dwarf, for instance, can be grown in drills not more than two 
feet asunder. But a free circulation of air is so essential to the 
vigor of the plants, that we are always willing to allow them 
more room than they actually require, and to occupy the in- 
tervening spaces with cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, and such 
other vegetables as will be benefited by their shade. 

It is usual to make two rows in each drill, nine inches from 
each other, and about two inches deep; because then less 
ground is required for the plantation, while the cost of setting 
brush will be diminished one half. One quart of seed will 
plant from forty to eighty yards of row, and when the soil is 
dry, the seed ought to be soaked in warm water at least twen- 
ty-four hours before the time of sowing. When the weather 
becomes very Wiirm, if watef be poured into the rows before 
they are covered, the time required for the germination of the 
seed will be considerably shortened. The extent of the vari- 
ous sowings may, perhaps, be determined with tolerable accu- 
racy from the experiments of Bradley, who ascertained that, 
on an average, three rods of land, containing eighteen double 
rows, yielded thirty-six quarts of shelled peas, 

la early spring, should any injury from severe cold weather 
be apprehended, the sowings might be protected by tliiu layers 
of straw, litter, or evergreen brush. When the plants are two 
inches high, the soil should be thoroughly loosened by the hoe, 
and a little drawn up against tlie stems for their support. 
This must be repeated once or twice previous to the time of 
•' brusliiug," with care to destroy every upstart weed. As soon 
as the plants show their tendrils, or when about nine inches in 
height, " brushing" should be performed. Gardeners generally 



DICTIONARY. 229 

make use of cedar tops, trimmings of apple trees, or some 
other refuse stuff with small twigs, for the support of tlie ten- 
drils, sharpened at the lower end, and between four and seven 
feet high — according to the variety cultivated. They are to 
be firmly inserted between the rows, and sufiRciently close to- 
gether to sustain all the vines. It is a much neater plan, to 
stretch twine on each side of the drill, tying it to stakes that 
stand some six or eight feet asunder, by which means, the 
vines will be kept upright, without the assistance of the un- 
sightly brush. The Bishop's Dwarf does not require staking. 

When the plants of the early and late sowings are in blos- 
som, and the flowers on the lower part of the stalks begin to 
fade, it is a good practice to stop the growth of the leading 
shoots, by pinching off the terminal buds. By doing tliis, the 
strength of the roots is spent wholly upon the development of 
the pods, thus hastening the maturity of the crop. In time of 
drought, and in certain situations, even during ordinary dry 
"Weather, water may be applied with marked advantage, by 
pouring it between the rows. We have saved entire planta- 
tions, with a few minutes' labor at^evening, after the vines, in 
consequence of the heat and want of moisture, had turned 
yellow for several inches above the ground. When artificially 
watered, they continue in a vigorous state, resisting disease 
and bearing abundantly, while less favored vegetables are al- 
most burned up. It is said, that if the pods be gathered reg- 
ularly as they become fit for use, with care not to injm-e the 
stems, the produce will be larger and ontinueJ for a greater 
length of time. 

The pea-bug is a small brown insect, which derives its 
name from its habits of preying on this vegetable. Tiie g^,':^ 
is deposited by the parent fly in the soft pod, and the mi»ute 
maggot Works his way into the very heart of the pea, there to 
perfect it^ gn>\vth. llaxu-e Dr. Harris observes, that few per- 
sons in eating a plateful oi green pea-^, " are aware how many 
insects they unconsciously swallow." The beetle emerges from 
20 



230 SARBEIVJER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

its hiding place, near the time for planting in the following 
spring. The germ is seldom injured, but the vegetable is ren- 
dered unfit for winter use. We would advise soaking the 
seed in boiling water for about a minute, and then rolling it in 
ashes or plaster, whereby the bug will be destroyed, and the 
germ roused at once into action. Care must be taken, however, 
to prevent the destniction of the seed as well as of the bug. 
With the crop intended for drying, it is advisable to plant late, 
after the time for the parent fly to deposit its eggs has passed. 
A disease called the " mildew," is caused by the want of mois* 
ture. 

For sfcd, — save none but the best plants. New and im* 
proved kinds have been thus obtained, and what has been done 
once can be done again. Even if you cause no improvement 
in the variety, you will prevent its degenerating. The pods 
should be gathered when dry, and, after being kept several 
days in a cool place, for all surplus moisture to escape, are to 
be shelled, and stowed away in paper bags or boxes. 

Use. — Tlie anxiety manifested by gardeners in the neigh- 
borhood of cities to raise the first crops for market, is mdic' 
ative of the general regard in which the vegetable is lield> 
In the green state, peas are light and wliolesome, and on ac- 
count pf their earliness, form a grateful addition to the diruier- 
tabl& 1'hey can be easily preserved for winter use by drying 
them on cloths in the shade, and keeping them from mildew ; 
by soaking them a few hours in water, they will be as good as 
though freshly picked. When ripe, they are used in puddings 
and soups ; and are considered nutritious, although unfit for 
verv delicate stomachs. They have, moreovei", an agricultural 
importance, being known to be one of the best kinds of pro^ 
render for cattle and poultry. 

To boil. — Green peas should be freshly gathered, and not 
shelled until a few minutes before the time of cooking. Wash 
them clean, and then put them into boiling water, with eala- 



DICTIOXAUY. 231 

ratus in tlie proportion of one quarter of a teaspoonful to one 
luilf peck of peas. When they are tender, take them up by 
means of a skimmer, put a piece of butter in the dish, and 
sprinkle on a little salt. 

Pea Soup. — Stew one pint of green peas in a phit of water, 
w^ith an ounce of butter, a few leaves of lettuce, onions, pep- 
per and salt, till they become soft, when you are to add more 
water, and stew until they are quite tender. If the peas have 
been dried, they should be soaked for twelve hours in a warm 
place, boiled for an hour, drained, put in fresh water, to- 
gether with a piece of salt pork, and further boiled till they 
ai'e soft. 

Pennyroyal, — See MIXT. 

PEPPER.— (7a;)Sicww. 

Capsicum is the name given to several species of plants 
found in South America, as well as in the East and West In- 
dies, Though numerous, they all agree in their pungent prop- 
erties, and are easily distinguished by their red or yellow 
pods, which contain many small, flat seeds. 

Culture. — The best soil is one that is rich, mellow, dry, 
and in a wai-m situation. One ounce of seed will yield be- 
tween two and three thousand plants. The earliest sowing 
can be made in March, upon a gentle hot-bed ; or delayed 
until the first part of May, in a sheltered boi'der. Cover the 
seed near half an inch deep. When the plants are two inches 
high, they shall be removed to their final location, to be set 
in rows two feet apart each way. Until they become estab- 
lished, protect them from the noonday sun ; and occasionally, 
during all tlrv weather, give tliem gentle sprinklings of water 
Keep the soil open and clean. 

Fur seed, — plants bearing the most forward and best- 
shaped fruit must be selected. When the pods are ripe, they 



232 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

are to be hung up to dry in a wai-m room, where tliey can ha 
kept through the winter. 

Use. — In hot climates, the fruit of these plants is much 
used for culinary purposes, being eaten in lai'ge quantities 
with both animal and vegetable food, and mixed, in different- 
proportions, Avith almost every kind of sauce. In family gar- 
dens of this country, it is generally cultivated for pickling, and 
should be gathered before it ripens. For the manufacture of 
Cayenne pepper, it is dried in the sun, and then ground. In 
addition to the value of Cayenne for seasoning dishes, it has 
some medicinal virtues, and is often rubbed upon meats to 
preserve them from insects. 

Peppermint. — See MINT. 

POTATO. — Solanum tuberosum. 

Sir Joseph Banks thought, that this well known vegetable 
was originally brought to Spain from the nn)untainous dis- 
tricts of South America, where it may yet be found growing 
in a Avild state. Its history is involved in some obscurity, in 
consequence of its being frequently confounded with the sweet 
potato, from which root it seems to have derived its name. 
It was carried to England in 1586, from Sir Walter Raleigh's 
colony of Virginia, and was first cultivated upon his estate at 
Youghall, in Ireland. Clusius, a European writer, mentions 
it about the year 1588. Its character was then by no means 
settled, and for a long time the tubers were treated as fruit, 
being eaten Avith sugar, or baked in pies with wine and spices. 
They were purchased as a great delicacy for the table of 
Queen Anne, at the cost of two shillings per pound. So much 
opposition was manifested to its culture, that its' introduction 
into many parts of the Eastern continent is of comparatively 
recent ddte. Thus, some writers did not hesitate to call it fit 
for swine alone. While even the celebrated Evelyn, at the 
very close of the seventeenth century, advised that it be 



DICTIONARY. 233 

planted in the worst land. Otiiers based their objeirtions on 
religious ground:^, paying that what is " not mentioned in the 
Bible "' cannot Le fit for tlie food of man. It did not reach 
Switzerland until 1*720, and the French were so much preju- 
diced .against it, that its cultivation did not become general 
among them until during a time of scarcity in the llevolution. 
JN'or did the peasantry of Italy receive it into favor, until their 
cupidity had been excited by the rewards which government 
oiiered to those who cultivated it most successfully ; it is true, 
that they were afterwards so well convinced of its value during 
a severe famine, that they proudly refused to take the pre- 
miums to which they had become entitled. But this diversity 
of opinion has long since jjassed away, and the potato is con- 
sidered one of our most important field and garden crops. 

In consequence of the faciUty with which it is propagated 
by seed, as well as of the distinctive character which it ac- 
quires from a change of soil, cUmate and management, its 
varieties are very numerous, — being dissimilar in form, ap- 
pearance, size, quality for the kitchen, and productiveness. 
Every section has its fixvorite sorts, which either improve or 
deteriorate by removal to another district. Thus, tlie far- 
famed Irish potato loses its valuable properties, when trans- 
planted to this country ; and a kind that is higlily esteemed 
in one part of our broad Union, is only second or third-rate in 
another quarter. Prejudice has undoubtedly something to 
do in this matter, but it chiefly results from certain natural 
causes, which might easily be explained. It will be seen, 
therefore, that we can only enumerate the principal varieties, 
and leave the considenition of their respective merits wiUi 
the reader : these are — Foxh Seedling, — the Early Kidney ~ 
the Jlerccr, — the Pink Eyes, — the Foxite, — [lie Liverpool' 
Blues, — and the Blue Jackets. We believe the above to be 
the very best in general cultivation; still, for the reasons just 
named, there may be other kinds equally good, and perhaps 
much better than some includsd in the list. 
20* 



234 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

New varieties are obtained from seed. With the gardener 
who has time to spare, sucli experiments are very interesting, 
to say nothing of their actual importance in producing esti- 
mable kinds for cultivation. The apples should be gathered 
when ripe, and the seeds washed therefrom, dried in a warm 
window, and put away in paper bags. By the first of May 
following, the seeds are to be sown in drills, one third of an 
inch deep, and ten inches apart, upon a bed of fine, mellow 
earth. The plants, when three inches high, are to be thinned 
out to distances of eight inches in the drill, and those taken 
up in cloudy weather, can be set out in another bed. Culti- 
vate carefully through the summer, — destroying weeds, and 
occasionally bringing a little soil around the stems. In au- 
tumn, at the time the vines wither, gather the small tubers, 
and keep them in separate paper bags ; to be planted the 
next season, at such distances apart as will prevent any in- 
termixture or confusion of sorts. When the crop rij^ens, such 
tubers as appear desirable for extraordinary size, flavor, early 
season of matuiity, or productiveness, may be reserved for 
the following spring ; while all others are thrown to the pigs. 

Culture. — Potatoes are raised in nearly every kind of 
soil, altliougli experience has shown the superiority of a light 
loam over all others. For the want of a little forethought in 
the selection of the ground, formers often find the crop small, 
or, if large, of very poor quality. We think it generally un- 
derstood, tliat a fresh loam which is light, moderately rich, 
and somewhat moist, is better than one of a wet, hard, or 
tenaci()us character. Unless it be quite loose and friable, it is 
always the best plan to dig it deeply in autumn, letting it lie 
in ridges to court tlie action of frost in winter, and levelling it 
in the spring. In regard to manures, unfermented barn-yard 
dung is by many considered objectionable, on account of a real, 
or fancied, unpleasant taste which it communicates to the tu- 
bers ; and, for this reason, if it be necessarily used, it should 



DICTIONARY. 235 

be spread over the whole surface and dug under, rather than 
put in close contact with the seed. Lime or gypsuui, ashes, 
bone-dust, charcoal, etc., make excellent additions to the soil, 
rendering it fertile without causing rankness. 

To avoid disappointment and delay, the seed should be 
got in readiness some days before tlie time of planting. At 
this stage of our inquiry, we find another of those important 
questions wliich can never be put to rest, viz. : " Shall the po- 
tatoes be planted whole, or after being cut up into sets ?" 
Each method has its ad\^ocates, and the respective advantages 
of each have been again and again ascertained by actual exper- 
iment, but with results as variable as the movements of the 
weathercock. From personal observation, we think that if 
the tuber be of a medium size, it may be planted whole, or if 
large, cut into four five or six pieces. At least two buds, 
or eyes, should be retained in every set. The point of 
the potato is found to come to maturity about a fortnight ear- 
lier than the root end, — a fact which may, with propriety, be 
noted for the first crops. Wlien the sets are cut, they ought to 
be laid on a floor to dry, for about a week previous to the date 
of planting. Sprinkling them with water, and covering with 
a thin layer of mold, so as to sprout the buds, is attended with 
not a little trouble and considerable danger of injury to the 
young shoots. 

Lay the ground out into drills, about two feet apart, and 
eiglit inches deep. In the bottom of each, spread three inches 
of manure, over which is to be throwm a little loose earth for 
the reception of the sets. Put them eight or ten inches apart, 
and witli the eyes uppermost. When one drill is planted, fill 
it up with three or four inches of mold, and proceed to the 
next one. For the general crop, the time of planting will be 
somewhere near the middle of April, although a good yield is 
frequently obtained from seed planted a month earlier in the 
season. Forcing is often resorted to, in order to secure a quick 
return. Our general directiop« in the article headed " Foro 



236 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

rxt! Vegetation," are quite sufficient. The hot-bed need not 
be very large, but it sliould have sixteen or eighteen inches of 
good soil upon the top, so as to afford plenty of room for the 
formation of roots. 

When the young vines appear above the ground, the duties 
of after-culture commence. The soil should be thoroughly 
loosened by the hoe, as well to admit light and air, as to check 
the further progress of weeds. A little mold is from time to 
time to be drawn around the stems for their support, and for the 
benefit of the roots — both to prevent their pushing themselves 
through the surface, and to guard them against excessive 
moisture. Care must be taken not to make so large a ridge, 
as to occasion harm rather than good; the proper heiglit is de- 
pendent upon such circumstances as climate, season, soil, and 
the variety cultivated. For a potato patch no part of the 
treatment is more essential, than the systematic and thorough 
use of the hoe ; but it must not be continued after the blossoms 
have set, because it will then encourage a new growth of 
■fibres, which, without being able to arrive at maturit}', rob the 
first growth of the nourishment that is necessary to their per- 
fection. After that period, the gardener will be obliged to 
make use of his fingers, in extracting such weeds as persist in 
showing themselves among the drills. Botanists and practical 
cultivators have decided, that the crop is much benefited by 
picking off the blossom buds before they are ready to open. 
Whether the trouble will be counterbalanced by the increased 
produce, can be decided by individual experiment. 

The time when the potatoes are fully ripened, will be indicat- 
ed by the decay of the vines. They are, however, taken up long 
before this, and exposed for sale under the tempting name of 
" new potatoes." We do not hesitate to condemn the practice, 
believing that these walnut-sized tubers are almost as desti- 
tute of nourishment, if not quite as unwholesome, as unripe 
cherries or apples. But, it is true that they are fit for use 
Rometime previous to the witherinjj of the stems, and can bo 



DICTIONARY. 237 

dug as wanted. We object only to taking tlicm up before 
they are scarcely half grown. Tlie main part of the crop in- 
tended for storing, ought not to be harvested until vegetation 
has ceased. 

In a large plantation, the drills are often opened by the 
plough, which is a cheap and expeditious way ; in a garden at 
that season, the team will be liable to do injury, and recourse 
must be had to the hoe, fork, or long-handled shovel. The 
latter is a very effective implement for the labor, particularly 
in the hands of an honest Hibernian. The roots will be injured 
by the heat of the sun, and, if not dug in cloudy weather, should 
be thrown into small heaps covered with a few of the dead 
vines, for the escape of the surplus moisture. Handle them 
carefully, so as not to bruise or injure them any more than can- 
not be avoided. They are generally stored in the cellar, in 
large bins, or common flour barrels, — a little straw being thrown 
upon the top, to prevent exposure to the air. At other times, 
they are piled in a pyramidal or conical heap, in some unoccu- 
pied part of the garden. The heap ought to be in a dry spot, 
thatched with straw, with ten inches of dirt upon the outside, 
made smooth so as to shed the rain, and encircled by a trencli 
to conduct away the water. Such as are kept in the cellar 
must be frequently examined, for tlie purpose of picking out 
decayed ones, and preventing the growth of sprouts — which 
would injure their" quality, both for use on the table and 
planting as seed. 

The disease called the " curl," although long known, seems 
so far to have baffled investigation. Some experiments made 
in Great Britain indicated, that gathering the tubers for seed 
before they become fully ripe, adds greatly to the amount and 
certainty of the crop. We have yet said nothing in regaid to 
the " rot," which has prevailed so extensively ft)r a few years 
past, and showed itself, last season, in places where it had not 
before been known. It is a matter of so much importance to the 
gardener, that to pass over it without comment, might well be 



238 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

deemed inexcusable in tlie autlior of a work like this. And 
so, a lew words in relation to it may be expected from us, even 
though we liave notliing new to advance. The failure of the 
potato crdjD in Ireland and other parts of Europe, for several 
years in succession, and the consequent suffering among the 
pctorer classes, are facts still fresh in our minds, and which, 
indeed, cannot easily be forgotten. The disease has been 
scarcely less fatal in our own country, althougli attended with 
less melancholy results. Tlie attention of the most eminent 
scientific men has been drawn to the subject, and still, little or 
nothing of value has thus far been elicited. We are, probably, 
as ignorant as ever of the cause of the disease, and we, cer- 
tainly, have not yet found a remedy. This little book would 
hardly c<»ntain all the alleged pieventives, that have been 
brought forward in our agricultural journals, and a small num- 
ber of wliich we ourselves have tested, with results varying 
from season, temperature, soil, exposure and manure. If we 
have any opinion of our own, it is briefly this — to plant upon 
new and long-uncultivated ground, with such fertilizers as lime, 
ashes, charcoal, and salt, instead of stable-dung, and especially 
that which is unfermented. The subject has been again revived, 
and is open for tlie exercise of learning and sagacity ; but we 
much fear, that the great moving cause of the contagion will 
prove as mysterious, as the principle of " the pestilence that 
walketh in darkness." 
t 
Use. — The discovery of the potato plant has been of more 
benefit to mankind than the discovery of gunpoAvder. The 
one destroys, while the other feeds, — liaving, it is said, added 
millions to the population of Europe, and rendei'ed unknown, 
until within a few years, tliose famines that were so frequent 
and so distressing. If we search the whole round of the vege- 
table kingdom, we find no member more geneially valuable, 
as well as more extensively cultivated. The roots, when of a 
good quality and well cooked, are wholesome and rmtritious, 



DiCTTONATlY. 239 

forming a staple article of foocl> of which the appetite never 
tires. With the poor tliey a.re one of the greatest blessings o\ 
the soil, being " tiour witliout a mill, and bread without aw 
oven." Mixed in certain proportions with wheat tl )ur, they 
make a most excellent family bread; when ground into ilour, 
they are used by confectioners ; and they are manufactured 
into starchy tapioca, yeast, alcohol, and sugar. The stalk cart 
be converted into potash, and a sort of flax ; and the apples 
yield vinegar ; while soap can be extracted from the tubercles. 

Irish mode of 6oi/2>-^.— Wash the potatoes clean, but do 
not pare them ; then put them into hot water, and boil them 
until a fork can be readily inserted. Dash in a pint of cold 
water, and in two minutes afterward, pour off the whole. Now 
set the pot, with the lid half drawn, either over the Are, oi* 
near it, for the steam to evaporate ; when the potatoes may bo 
peeled, and carried to the table in an uncovered dish. If they 
be of a good kind, this mode of cooking will render them sweet) 
dry and mealy, veiy different from the water-soaked lumpg 
too often seen. 

To roast. — Select potatoes of a nearly equal size, that they 
may all occupy about the same length of time in cooking. 
After they are washed clean, put tliem in a tin pan, and bake 
in a stove or oven. Send them to the table unskinned . 

Potato Bread. — Boil the potatoes very soft, when they are 
to be peeled and mashed as fine as possible. They are then 
to be mixed with two thirds their weight of flour, and made 
into dough with lukewarm water. Add a little salt and butter, 
and work in the yeast, together with flour sufficient to stiffen 
the dough. It rises quicker than common bread, and is more 
economical, and continues fresh for a longer time. It should 
be baked as soon as risen, for it will, otherwise, turn sour in tho 
course of a few hours. 

POTATO OMOl^.— Allium tuberosum. 

Not unfrequently called the under-ground onion, in conse 



240 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

quence (if its producing clusters of offsets from the roots. 
Plant in March or Api-il,— tlie bulbs being ten inches from 
each other, in rows one foot apart, and having their crowns one 
inch below tlie surface. Tlie soil should be moderately rich, 
and, for convenience of cultivation, laid into beds four feet 
■wide. Make good use of the hoe throughout the summer, and 
occasionally draw a little earth around the stems. This prac- 
tice of " earthing," as it is called, is generally followed, although 
condemned by many eminent authorities. The crop w^ill be 
matured sometime during the month of August, and is to be 
harvested like the common onion. 

Potato (Sweet).— ^re SWEET POTATO. 
PUMPKIN.— Cacurhita pepo. 

We believe that the pumpkin is a native of India. It is one 
of the nine species of the gourd, or squash, family. The botani* 
cal term Cncurbita is derived from the resemblance which 
some of the species bear to certain vessels used by the chemist. 
This one is readily distinguished by the round shape of it«i 
fruit, and is sometimes known under the name of Pompion. 
For families the best varieties are, undoubtedly,— the Cci' 
.v//aw),—- and the VdlparaiHo. Souk; other kinds attain such an 
extraordinary size, that they are better suited for taking premi- 
ums at agricultural shows, than for use in the kitchen. 

Cui.TurvE.— This vine ought not to be cultivated in the 
garden, V\'herc it Vv^ill occupy much room that might be devoted 
to more profitable crops, and where it will, moreover, do great 
injury by hybridizing with the choicest melons and cucum- 
bers; — unless the gardener have no other ground at his dis- 
posal. It is generally planted by the farmer, in the hills 
with Indian corn, and allowed to take care of itself. But, it 
ie known to be most successful when grown in an open space, 



DICTIONARY. 24 J 

like the Melon ; — the ground being properly manured, the 
seed sown in hills some eight feet apart each way, and the 
vines protected from the attacks of insects. 

UsE,^The pumpkin has a well-earned reputation. In 
Europe, it is used in soups, or when boiled hke potatoes, or ti3 
a kind of baked preserve. In this country, where it is annu- 
ally raised in immense quantities, it is considered very excel- 
lent food for cattle, and, in the hands of the skilful housewife, 
it makes a pie that is inferior to no other. It can be preserved 
through a great part of the winter, upon a shelf in a cool cellar, 
where the temperature is uniform and not below the freezing 
point. "When discovered to be decaying, it may be cut up in 
strips, and dried near a fire; the dry strips to be stewed, 
when wanted for making pies. Or, it may be stewed, sweet- 
ened with, sugar, and seasoned with ginger, and put in a jar to 
be kept in a cool place; when to be made into pies, the re- 
quired quantity to be taken out, and put with milk and eggs. 

Pumpkin Pie. — A pumpkin is to be halved, freed from the 
Beeds, washed clean, and cut into small pieces. These are 
to be stewed gently until soft, then drained, and strained 
through a sieve. To one quart of the pulp, add three pintg 
of cream or milk, six beaten eggs, together with sugar, mace, 
nutmeg and ginger to the taste. When the ingredients are 
well mixed, pour them upon pie plates having a bottom crust, 
nnd bake fur forty minutes in a liot oven. 

QUINCE.— C?/c?a7<m vulgaris. 

"Quinces," ?ay 9 Columella, "yield not only pleasure, but 
health." The tree derived its botanical name Cydonia, from the 
city of Cydon, in Crete, where it appears to have fir>t attracted 
notice. It is, liowever, fouufl growing in a wild state in western 
Asia, as well as in the southern and eastern parts of Europe. 
The tree is of hardy habit, about twelve feet high, and of a 
21 



242 GAllDKNirR\S TEXT-BOOK. 

spreading, irregular growth. The flowers are very ornamentpJ, 
■while nothing can be prettier than the ripe golden fruit in au- 
tumn. It is largely cultivated for market, and, under skilful 
management, yields a good profit. It occupies considerable 
room, and the roots are apt to do injury to such vegetables as 
may be in the immediate neighborhood ; for which reasons, it 
is better adapted to the orchard than to the kitchen garden. 
We sometimes see it in the lawn around a house, where its 
richly laden branches of flowers or fruit have always a fine 
effect. The chief varieties are— the Apples Imped, — the Fear- 
shaped, — and the Portugal ; of which three, the first is most 
popular, although in flavor it is inferior to the last. 

Culture. — Propagation is effected by seeds, cuttings and 
la,yers. But, as the character of the seedlings is uncertain, the 
last two methods are usually preferred. The cuttings are to 
be taken from young wood in early spring, each beuig twelve 
inches long, and planted in a moist, shady situati(tn, with about 
one half its length below the surface. By giving a little 
water /occasionally in dry weather, and keeping the soil light, 
the formation of roots will be encouraged, so tho.t the plants 
will probably be fit for removal in the ensuing autumn. To 
propagate by layers, the shoots must be bent down into the 
grouixl, early in spring, and can be separated from the parent 
stock early in the first or second autumn thereafter, as may be 
most convenient. 

.The trees should be set about ten feet distant from each 
other, and in that portion of the garden where they will oc- 
casion the least injury. An idea seems to have become gene- 
ral, that currants, gooseberries and quinces, will be satisfied 
■with a poor soil, and flourish without any special care or at- 
tention on the part of the cultivator. By the present method, 
the quince bushes are almost' wholly neglected, and permitted 
to attain a rough, scrubby growth, that produces only a small, 
diseased crop. But, our observation has long sine© satisfied 



DICTIOXARY. 243 

US, that no occupant of the garden or orchard can be more im- 
proved by systematic and thorough cultivation, than the one 
now under notice. In the first phice, the soil selected for a 
plantation should be of the very best description — rich, deep 
and mellow, — be kept in good tilth through the summer, and 
enriched with a top-dressing of dung or compost in the au- 
tumn. Instead of having a thick clump of suckers, but three 
or fom- main stems should be allowed ; while tlie only pruning 
necessary, is to remove the old wood, and such branches as in- 
terfere with one another. Under this treatment, the trees 
will be vigorous in their growth, and the crop will prove all 
that could be desired. 

Use. — The fruit in its raw state is said to be good for the 
asthma, spitting of blood, dropsy and some other complaints ; 
but its principal value is for making preserves, sauces, marma- 
lades, jelly, wine, etc. It is also used with other khids of 
fruit, for the sake of the agreeable flavor whicla it communi- 
cates to them. One pound of sugar mixed with one quart of 
quince juice makes a very excellent wine, that is thought to 
have performed many wonderful cures in cases of the asthma. 

To preserve. — Pare the quinces, and cut them in halves or 
quarter?, — at the same time taking out the cores. To every 
five pounds of the prepared fruit, add three pounds of sugar 
and one half pint of water. Put the whole upon the fii-e, 
where they are to simmer gently for three hours, the cover 
being kept upon the vessel to prevent the escape of steam, g 
When the quinces are fully cooked, put them into a stone pot, 
which is to be kept in a cool, dry place. If the syrup fer- 
ments, draw it off, and return it while hot. 

Another Receipt. — When the quinces are very ripe, pare 
and cut them iu slices, or rings, an inch thick. Remove the 
cores carefully. To eacli pound of fruit, allow one pound of 
fine white sugar, which is to be dissolved in one half pint of 
cold water. After the fruit has soaked in this syrup for ten 



214 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

or twelve hours, put the wliole into a preserving kettle, and 
let them boil gently, until a broom splinter will go easily 
through the pieces, when they may be taken from the fire. 
In the course of a week, draw off the syrup, and boil it down 
60 that there will be just enough to cover the quinces. 

Quince Jelly. — Halve and core the fruit, which is to be 
boiled very soft, and then drained through a flannel bag with- 
out squeezing. Add to every pint of the liquor, one pound of 
■white sugar. Clarify by putting in the whites of eggs. When 
the liquor becomes clear, boil it over a moderate fire until a 
thick jelly is formed. Put the jelly in glasses, and cover them 
tight. The pulp remaining in the bag can be made into 

Quince Marmalade. — Wasli and quarter the quinces, with- 
out paring them, and stew them over a moderate fire. When 
they become soft, rub them through a sieve, and add brown 
sugar at the rate of " pound for pound." Then let the whole 
stew slowly, being stirred so as to prevent burning to the ket- 
tle. In about an hour, take out a little upon a spoon, and if it 
can be cut smooth on becoming cold, it is sufficiently cooked- 
Keep in jars or glasses. 

RADISH. — Raphanns sativus. 

This valuable plant came originally from China and Persia, 
but has been cultivated in Europe for time immemorial. It is 
an annual, having a stem about two feet high, which bears 
purjjlisli white fiOAvers. Formerly the leaves were boiled and 
fitewed, and at the present day they are used with salad herbs ; 
but the plant IS chiefly esteemed for its root, which, containing 
little besides water, woody fibre, and acrid matter, cannot be 
very nutritive, although perhaps good as a stimulant. The best 
varieties for general culture, are — iha Early Short-top Scarlet 
— the Early Salmon, — the Long Wliite Naples, — the White 
Spaniah, — the Black Spanish, — together with the Hed, White, 
and yellow Turiiip-rootcd. 



DICTIONARY. 245 

Culture. — Tlie early crops will require artificial heat. We 
have previously given general directions for the management 
of flames, and must refer the reader thereto. The best kinds 
of radish for culture under glass, are the Early Short-top 
Scarlet, and the Early Salmon. The bed of dung need not be 
large, because no great degree of Avarmth is ni;cessary. The 
mold should be rich and light, about ten inches deep. As 
soon as it becomes warm, sow the seed rather tliickly upon 
the surface, and cover with an additional half inch of mold. 
The plants ought to stand about two inches apart, and be 
freely supplied with air, although protected by mats during 
cold nights. Water must be occasionally given in moderate 
quantities. In the want of a regular hot-bed frame, a common 
box, set upon the dung, to be covered with loose boards when- 
ever the weather is cool, answers a very good purpose. Should 
the gardener be so unfortunate as to be without manure 
which he can spare for a bed, he may hasten tlie maturity of 
tlie plants in no small degree, by the simple shelter of a close 
frame or box. Air must be fi-eely admitted in all pleasant 
days. Early radishes are excellent on the breakfast table, 
and can be very easily obtained. 

Sowing in the open air may be commenced sometime 
about tlie middle of March, provided the weather appear 
sufficiently mild. But, where we can depend upon frame 
crops, we prefer waiting a few days later. The first sowing 
should be made in a warm border, well screened upon the 
north side, and having the full benefit of the sun. The most 
favorable soil is one that is mellow, dry, and of average fer- 
tility. Sow either alone in drills eight inches apart, or in the 
same bed with carrot, spinach, lettuce, or any other vegetable 
which will come in after the radishes are removed. About 
one half ounce of seed will be required for a rod of ground ; it 
should be covered evenly, and to tlie depth of half an inch. 
Throwing a quantity of litter or refuse straw on the bed, proves 
an excellent protection against fiost, besides' accelerating ger- 
2l# 



246 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

mination. Continue tliis at night, after the plants have started 
until all clanger of their sutlering from the cold be past. 

A sowing ought to be made every two weeks until the 
middle of May, and occasionally afterward until September. 
For the summer crops, sow seed of the Yellow Turnip-rooted 
and Long White Naples varieties. The great difficulty in 
raising radishes during warm weather is, that the roots quickly 
become tough and bitter, when they are worthless for the 
table. In order to avoid this, they must be plentifully sup- 
plied with water, which renders them fleshy, with a mild, 
agreeable flavor. The winter supply of the Black and White 
Spanish varieties, shall be planted in the latter part of sum- 
mer, or in the beginning of autmim, and harvested in Novem- 
ber, to be packed away in sand. 

"When the seed leaves are well developed, the plants are 
to be thinned to one inch apart in the drill, and subsequently, 
to distances of two inches for the spmdle-rooted, and of four 
or five inches for the turnip-rooted. Care must be taken to 
prevent their being too much crowded. A regular application 
of water is at all times of advantage, and particularly during 
a season of drought. The roots will not be eatable, unless 
they have a good supply of moisture. It has been recom- 
mended, to mix with the soil equal quantities of fresh horse- 
dung, and buckwheat bran, in order to hasten the growth of 
the roots, so as to get them out of the way of those worms 
which so greatly injure their appeai"ance and quality. Snuff 
or air-slacked lime sifted upon the leaves, is a preventive 
of the depredations of small flies and beetles. 

Lor seed, — leave some of the early spring plants in the bed 
where grown, or set them out in another bed, at distances of 
about three feet from each other. Endeavor to keep the varie- 
ties distnict, and having this object in view, you should not 
permit two difl'erent kinds to flower in the same neighborhood. 
Give them a little water after transplanting, and from time to 
tin:ie afterward, especially when the flowers aru opened. Tho 



DICTIONARY. 247 

ripeness of the seed will be indicated by the pods turning 
brown; it may be threshed out immediately, or hung up with 
the stalks, until wanted for sowing. 

Use. — Tlie roots of radishes are eaten raw, and, when of 
good flavor, are highly reli^^hed at the tea or breakfast table. 
But, tliat they may be thus agreeable to the taste, as well as 
acceptable to the stomach, they must be young and tender. 
Physicians always condemn the use of such as are tough and 
stringy; and, indeed, on other considerations, we do not see 
how they can find favor witli any person. The small leaves 
are sometimes put in salads, and the pods, while green and 
plump, are added to pickles, as a substitute for capers. The 
juice that may be extracted from the roots, is said to be good 
for diseases of the chest, sucli as hoai'seness and difficulty of 
respiration. 

RASPBERRY.— i2i<6ii.s Idceus. 

In its wild, unimproved state, the raspberry is a native ot 
various temperate climates, to be found gi'owing in thickets, 
woodland and rough mountainous districts. The species which 
is commonly cultivated in our gardens, appears to have origi- 
nated from the Ruhus Idoeus, or Mount Ida bramble. Down- 
ing says, that the name of raspberry is derived from the Ital- 
ian word ra-'ipo, probably in allusion to the rasping roughness 
of the wood. The root is creeping, and of a woody character. 
Tlie stems are erect, attaining tJie height of three or four feet, 
and armed with short prickles. Several varieties are known, 
which differ from one another, in their habits of growth and 
hardiness, as well as in the quality and quantity of their fruit 
Among those considered best for general cultivation, are — the 
i?^f? and White Antwerp!^, — the Colonel Wilder, — the Franco- 
ma, — the Fastolff, — and tlie Ohio Everbearing. 

The cultivation of the raspberry on an extensive scale for 



248 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 

market, is found to be very profitable, for the crop is generally 
large, and it always commands good prices, A Mr. Ilallock, 
of Ulster County in the State of New-York, has a plantatioB 
covering three fourths of an acre of land, which, in the seasoa 
of 1848, yielded thirty-three hundred baskets of fruit. He sold 
them in the City of New-York, at an average price of ten cents 
per basket, being at the rate of near four hundred and fifty dol- 
lars per acre. 

Such a retura cannot be expected from anything beside 
the very best management. An idea that the raspberry will 
flourish without cultivation, is very prevalent among those 
■who consider themselves gardeners. On the contrary, it re- 
quires a good soil, the occasional application of manure, and 
regular pi-unii"»g, quite as much as a cherry-tree, or a grape-vine. 
"VVe frequently hear people complaining that the improved 
varieties, which they have procured at considerable expense, 
are but little better than the old-fashioned kinds to be found 
on the road side. The reason is obvious ; — the bushes are set 
in perhaps the most unfavorable part of the premises, and tlien 
allowed to take care of themselves. To expect that they will 
yield fruit in abundance, and of the best quality, is about as 
reasonable as it would be to suppose, that a boy left to follow 
his own headstrong will, and allowed to run wild with all kinds 
of associates, can become a respected member of society. 

Culture. — The raspberry will grow well upon nearly every 
soil that is deep and rich, but it prefers a. sandy loam, some- 
what moist. Some of the most tender varieties, however, suc- 
ceed best on a dry sjx)t, where they are less liable to injury 
from frost. But, in no case is a strong, hard or heavy soil to 
be selected, where the cultivator has the choice of other 
ground. Tlie situation should be fiee and open, that the bushes 
may have the full benefit of light and air. 

New varieties are obtained from seed, and may be tested 
m the second or tliird year. For the propagation of establish- 



DICTIONARY. 249 

ed kinds, the most usual mode i'^ by suckers or offsets from the 
roots. Some of the American varieties may be increased by 
layers, — that is, by bending a branch into a little hole, where it 
will take root. Set the canes in bunches of two or three, and 
in rows about three and a half {eet apart each way, at almost 
any time when the ground is open between November and* 
April. They will soon accommodate themselves to their new 
position, and throw up a growth of young suckers. In new 
plantations, in order to give the bushes an opportunity to 
strengthen theniselves, rather than to perfect fruit the first 
year, it is a good way to cut the suckers down nearly to the 
ground, and the value of the crop in the following season will be 
considerably increased. 

The management of a raspberry bush is certainly very sim- 
ple, and renders the neglect and ill treatment s# common 
quite inexcusable. During the summer, the ground ought to 
be kept mellow ; no weeds nor grass being allowed to obtain 
a foothold. In autumn, the pruning is to be performed ; or it 
may be delayed until the following spring, if that time be 
more convenient. The old canes, together with the feeble 
young wood, a,re to be cut down, leaving about half a dozen of 
the healthiest young shoots to bear the next crop. These 
shoots should be shortened some eight or ten inches, and then 
tied to a stake, in such a manner that the tops will spread out 
like a wineglass. 

In cold latitudes, winter protection is necessary, and the 
reserved canes, instead of being tied up, are bent down upon 
the ground, — a small mound of earth being placed near the 
root to prevent their breaking, — and covered with earth, straw, 
or evergreens ; in early spring, the covering is removed, and 
the stakes are set. "Where a late crop is desired, the canes 
can be cut down in spring, to cause a new growth which will 
bear several weeks later than the other bushes. The soil 
should be thoroughly dug. and enriched with a liberal applica- 
tion of dung. Salt applied at this time also proves beneficial. 



250 GARDENER-S TEXT-BOOK. 

and many cultivators are accustomed to spread litter, sea- weed, 
or salt hay upon the surface, to the depth of four or five inches, 
particularly in case the land be of a dry nature. Under high 
culture, the roots will continue in a good state of productive- 
ness for six, ten, or -fifteen years, each season yielding the 
owner a generous return for his trouble. 

Use. — Succeeding the strawbeny, the fruit of the rasp- 
berry is highly prized, not only on account of its value for the 
dessert, but also for making preserves, jellies, tnrts, etc. Wine, 
syrup and shrub are made from the juice. The fruit is whole- 
some, and of agreeable flavor; commending itself by its hand- 
some appearance, as well as by its delightful fragrance. Rasp- 
berry syrup is excellent for dissolving the tartar that accumu- 
lates on te#t-h, and the wine, mixed with water, makes " a good 
reviving draught in ardent fevers." 

Raspberry Jam. — For each pound of fruit, allow one pound 
of powdered white sugar, and place a layer of each alternately 
in a preserving-dish. After they have remained thus for half 
an hour, put them over a moderate fire, and let them boil 
slowly, stirring them frequently so as to prevent their being 
burned. Boil for half an hour, or until the mixture has be- 
come a thick jelly. This is ascertained by taking up a little 
in a cup, which is to be set in a dish of cold water. 

Raspberry Shrub. — To three quarts of fresh, ripe fruit, put 
one quart of vinegar, and let them remain for twenty-four 
hours : at the end of which time, strain the liquor, and add to 
each pint one pound of white sugar. Boil the whole together 
for half an hour, artd skim it clear. When it becomes cool, 
add to each pint of shrub, a wineglassful of French brandy. 
Three tablespoonfuls of this shrub, mixed with a tumbler of 
water, make a very pleasant di'ink, that is wliolesome and re- 
freshing in fevers. 



DICTIONARY. 251 

RHUBARB. — Rheum rhaponticwru 

KnowTi in some sections of the country by the name of 
Pie-plant. It is a species of the genus Rkeimi, -vrliicli fur- 
nishes the rhubarb of commerce. Tlie leaves are broad and 
long, supported by large petioles. The roots, when not dis- 
turbed for a period of seven years or thereabouts, acquire 
a value for medicinal purposes ; but tlie plant is cultivated in 
kitchen gardens for its stalks, "whicli are to be used in tarts 
and pies. We should be glad to see it more extensively in- 
troduced, for apart from its value for culinary preparations, it 
is thought to exercise a peculiarly healtliful influence upon the 
system. Its production for market is attended with profit, 
especially when brought forward in the early part of spring, 
before the season of fruit commences. The rhubarb family 
belong to the interior of Asia, and this species has been culti- 
vated in England since the year 1573. The best varieties are, 
— Buck's Scarlet, — the Tobolsk, — the Giant, — and Myatfs 
VictGria. Either is worthy of the reader's attention. 

Cui-tuRE. — The most favorable soihis one which possesses the 
merits of depth, mellowness and fertility. A good succession 
of leaves cannot be expected from a spot that is either heavy, 
shallow or poor. And in making a plantation, it will be found 
of advantage to spade the ground deeply, and, where it is not 
naturally rich, to dig under a liberal quantity of manure. 
The situation is best when having a northern exposure, or par- 
tially shaded from the sun. 

Plants are obtained from seed, or portions of old roots. 
Where the cultivator is in no hurry for the first crop, or where 
a large plantation is to be made, he will prefer sowing the 
seed to purchasing roots. The seed bed should be of light, 
rich soil, somewhat sheltered from the heat of noonday, adt 
laid out in drills one foot apart, and near one inch deep. 
Drop the seed tJiinly. The proper time for doing; this, is about 



252 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

the middle of spring, due attention being given to tlie clmrac- 
ter of the season. In the event of dry weather, the occasional 
apphcation of water provea of benefit. When the plants are 
two inches high, thin them to distances of six inches in the 
drill ; those which are pulled up, can, if the roots are not in- 
jured, be set out in another bed. 

In autumn, when the leaves have witliered, it will be time 
to remove the plants to their permanent location. After the 
ground has been manured and carefully spaded, mark out 
holes for the reception of the plants, thirty inches apart each 
way. For all varieties of moderate growth, this distance 
will be quite sufficient ; but, with some of the giant sorts 
lately introduced, it may be advisable to allow more room. 
Bury the roots with their crowns two inches below the sur- 
face. As soon as cold weather an*ives, cover the bed with 
about three inches of well rotted dung, to guard against in- 
jury from frost, and the next spring to be forked into the soil. 

No ci'op is to be expected this season, and so to avoid tl^e 
charge of keeping unoccupied land, quick-growing plants, 
such as lettuce and radishes, can be sowed between the rows. 
Good use of the hoe ought to be made at all times ; and, in 
severe drought, artificial watering may be necessary. Every 
autumn, a top-dressing of old dung, or rich compost, should be 
given, to be mixed with the earth in the spring. Where the 
gardener does not clioose to Avait two or tliree years for his 
first crop of leaves, plantations are frequently made with por- 
tions of old roots. This is always a good plan, if the roots 
can be readily obtained, either at a fair price, or as a gift from 
some friend. Each offset should have at least one bud or eye, 
and be planted in well prepared gi'ound, at the same distances* 
apart as plants taken from the seed bed. 

It is very common to blanch rhuburb, by placing over each 
fftool an inverted barrel or box, which in a short period will b-e 
found almost entirely filled with the stems and leaves. An- 
other way, is to cover each stcv>l with a bushel of black pea* 



DICTIONARY. ^53 

eaitli, late in autumn. "When tlius blanched, they are delicate 
and of a most excellent flavor, being infiuitely superior to 
those grown in the open air. To obtain a very early crop is 
easily done by forcing ; — the barrel or box is placed over the 
stool in autumn, and in midwinter entirely covered with dung 
and forest leaves. By reason of the warmth, the growth of 
the tops is rapid, and, owing to the absence of light, they will 
be white and sweet. 

Use. — The common garden rhubarb, or pie-plant, is cul- 
tivated for its stalks, which when young and tender, make aa 
excellent pie, tart, or sauce to be eaten with bread and butter.. 
They afe sometimes converted into wine and jelly. They 
should not be gathered after they appear to hav& attained; 
full size, because they have then lost a good part of their, fine 
flavor. It is better to slip them gently off the root, than to 
make use of the knife. But few gai'deu plants are more 
worthy of notice, for their useful and wholesome properties. 
As we have before intimated, the roots, aftei* a certam length 
of time, may be used for their medicinal virtues, although de- 
cidedly inferior to the other species. 

Rhubarb Pie. — Take the young stalks, remove the skin, 
and cut them into tliin slices. Line a deep plate with pie 
crust, and put in tlie rhubarb, together with layers of sugar. 
Cover the whole with a tliick crust, pressed down at the edges, 
and pricked by a fork. Bake for about an hour in a slow 
oven. Some persons are accustomed to stew the fruit before 
baking, by which means a greater quantity can be put in the 
plate. 

Rhubarb Jam. — Boil gently, for three hours, an equal 
weight of fine sugar and rhubarb stalks. The juice and grated 
rind of a lemon to each pound of the stalks, will correct their 
peculiar flavor, which is unpleasant to some persons. 

22 



254 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

ROSEMARY.— Ttos/narinws officinalis. 

Rosemary is a liardy shrub, and a native of southern Eu* 
rope. Its botanical name is composed of two Latin words — 
ros, dew, and marhius, of the ocean,— in allusion to the 
beautiful appearance of the plant, when glittering with dew 
on the sea shore. The stem varies in heiglit from three to 
six feet ; the leaves are distinguished by being of dark green 
upon the upper side, and whitish gray beneath ; and the 
flowers are pale blue. Every part of the plant has a strong 
odor, and the tender leaves are possessed of a sharp, aromatic 
taste. One fourth part of the oil is camphor. From an old 
notion that rosemary has the property of strengthening the 
memory, it has been made the emblem of remembrance and 
fidelity ; and this was undoubtedly the origin of a custom in 
some parts of England and Wales of wearing it at weddings 
and funerals. It is not much cultivated. 

Culture. — The soil best suited to the wants of rosemary 
is both poor and light ; in rich ground, the plant grows luxu- 
riantly, but loses its fragrant properties, and becomes more 
susceptible of injuny from cold weather. Tlie finest plants 
are raised from seed, which is sown in early spring, in drills 
one inch deep, and six inches apart. They are also obtained 
from cuttings of the young shoots, six inches long, and inserted 
in mellow ground, at the same season of the year, two thirds 
of their length — which part has been previously divested of 
leaves, — ^being below the surface. Give water freely, until the 
roots have fairly started, and no longer need an artificial sup- 
ply of moisture. Keep the ground in good tilth. You may 
remove the plants to their final location, either in autumn, or 
in the following spring. The work ought to be performed 
during damp, cloudy weather. Set the plants in rows two 
ieet apart each way. 



DICTIONARY. 255 

Use. — On account of their pungent taste, the leaves are 
used in Italy for seasoning certain dishes. They yield an es- 
sential oil, which is the principal ingi-edient of Hungary water ; 
and tliey also enter into the composition of Eau de Cologne. 
Rosemary has lost much of its reputation as a medicinal herb ; 
or, at least, it is rarely employed as such. It is a stimulant, 
and has been recommended for nervous headache and hys- 
teria. 

RUR — Ruta graveolens. 

A hardy perennial, known to antiquity, and a native of the 
south of Europe. It possesses a very strong and disagreeable 
smell, with a bitter taste. The leaves have the power of 
blistering the hand that touches them, and the plant has, 
therefore, been adopted by the poets to express disdain. 
Shakspeare calls it the " sour herb of grace." 

Culture. — Rue flourishes best on a poor loam, rather 
approaching the nature of a clay, and rt may, therefore, be 
located upon the most barren part of the garden. Plants are 
obtained from cuttings of young wood, set out in early spring, 
in some shaded situation. Water should be given freely until 
they are established. The seed may be sown at the same 
time of year, in rows six inches apart ; the plants, as soon as 
they crowd one another, being thinned out to distances of 
five inches therein. In autumn, transplant the cuttings and 
seedlings to their permanent position. Keep the ground 
loose, and free from weeds ; dressing it with the rake, both 
in spring and in autumn ; and removing all dead leaves or 
branches to the compost heap. 

Use. — The leaves were used by the ancient Romans for 
culinary purposes, and, it is said tliat, at tlie present day, they 
enter into the composition of certain dishes in middle Europe. 



256 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Their medicinal virtues seem to have been much exaggerated ; 
nevertheless, they are ranked among the anti-spasmodics, and 
considered of great benefit to persons of cold, phlegmatic 
habits. Mr. Wilson, in his " Economy of the Kitchen Gar- 
den," says that, the most certain remedy for expelling worms 
ever brought to his notice, is an infusion of rue leaves in gin, 
to be taken in the morning on an empty stomach. 

SAGE, — Salvia officinalis. 

Sage is a well known garden perennial, a native of south- 
em Europe. It has a pleasant, although powerful, smell ; 
while its taste is sharp and aromatic, somewhat resembling 
camphor. It was formerly much celebrated for its medical 
qualities, and, indeed, its botanic name, Salvia, is derived 
from the Latin salveo — to be in good health. It was once an 
adage, " Cur moriahir homo cui salvia a'escii in horfo ? " — how 
can a man die, in whose garden there grows sage ? Time has, 
however, stripped it of this reputation, and we now cultivate 
it principally for culinary purposes. Of the several different 
varieties, those most esteemed by the cook, are — the Green, — 
and the Red or Pnfple. The Broad-leaved Balsamic is most 
valuable in a medicinal point of view. 

CJuLTURE. — Select for the bed a dry, mellow soil, with an 
average character as regards fertility. Exj>erience has shown 
that, although the plant flourishes Ivixuriantly in a rich or 
moist situation, it is thereby rendered more susceptible to m- 
jury from cold weather. The best method of propagation is 
by seed, but it is frequently accomplished by cuttings or rooted 
slips. Sow the seed, in the middle of spring, ia drills about 
six inches apart, and one half inch deep. When the plants 
are of a suitable height, thin them to distances of six inches in 
the drill ; and those which are draAvn, can be placed in another 
bed, if the weather be favorable for transplanting. In autuinu> 



DICTIONARY. 257 

or the following spring, they may be removed to their perma- 
nent location, in case they are not permitted to remain in the 
seed bed. 

Cuttings of the young shoots are generally set out in July 
or August. They should be of a strong and healthy growth, 
about six inches in length, and divested of their lov?er leaves. 
Put tliem in a shaded border, eiglit inches apart each way, and 
give tliem occasional sprinklings of water until the roots have 
taken firm hold. They can be transplanted, either at the end 
of the season, or in the following spring. Rooted slips are 
most successful, when plan^^ed in the middle of spring, and 
in the place where they are to remain. Care should be takea 
to preserve as many of tiie fibrous roots as possible, and to 
supply artificial moisture if necessary. 

Keep the ground in good order, — mellow, as well as fi^ee 
from weeds and dead branches. It Ought to be d'jg over in ear- 
ly spring, in such a manner as not to injure the crowns of the 
roots, and every second or third year to receive a small top- 
dressing of good manure, at the same time. In cutting the 
tops, avoid taking off too many late in the season, lest the 
plants have not sufficie«t vigor to withstand the severity of 
winter. Whenever the main stalk shows a disposition to 
run to seed, it can be cut down, to encourage the growth of 
luteral branches. 

For seed, — select fine plants, and water them frequently 
vrhen in flower. Pull up tlie stalks as soon as the seed be- 
comes ripe, and after they are well dried, it will be easily 
threshed. Keep it iu a cool, dry room. 

Use. — We have already noted the change in public opin- 
ion, as to the value of sage for medical purposes. It is, how- 
ever, yet allowed to possess some aromatic and astringent 
powers ; and a decoction, or " sage tea" as it is ctiUed, is found 
useful in debility of the stomach, and in nervous cases. This 
decoction is thought highly of by tlie Chinese ; iu £act, they are 
22* 



258 GATIDENKR'S TEXT-BOOK. 

said to prefer it to their own tea. The leaves are used to a 
considerable extent in many kitchens, to season stuffings and 
sauces, as well as to correct the too great lusciousness of strong 
meats. They are gathered in August and September, when in 
their greatest perfection, dried before the fire, powdered fine, 
and kept in tight bottles for winter use, 

SALSIFY — Tragopogon porrifoliiis. 

By many gardeners this truly excellent plant is known 
as the Vegetable Oyster, — the root, when vt'ell cooked, hav- 
ing somewhat the flavor of the oyster. It is a biennial, of a 
hardy constitution, and to be found growing wild in the south- 
ern part of Europe. The stems are two or thi-ee feet high, 
bearing beautiful blue flowers, and rising from a long, white, 
fleshy root, which resembles a small parsnip. It is a valuable 
addition to every family garden worthy of the name, and par- 
ticularly to those in the interior of the country, where the oys- 
ter cannot readily be obtained. 

Culture. — Select a soil which is mellow, deep and fertile, 
and lay it out into drills, one foot apart, and towards an inch 
deep. Sow from the middle to the latter part of spring, as the 
season may be early or late. It will be necessary to drop the 
seed rather thickly, in order to be certain of a sufficient number 
of plants. A single ounce will be enough for at least one rod 
of ground. When the plants have made their appearance, 
and have attained the height of an inch, they are to be thinned 
so as to stand six inches apart. The soil should be kept en- 
tirely free from weeds, and often stu-red by the lioe, for the 
benefit of atmospheric influences. In dry times, artificial wa- 
tering is of great advantage ; and some cultivators recommend 
the addition of half an ounce of gpano to every gallon of water. 
The root is hardy, and will not suffer injury from severe cold 



DICTIONARY. 259 

weather. When a long frost is expected, a supply fur the 
table should be dug, and packed away in sand. 

For seed, — it is only necessary to suffer some of the most 
healthy plants to remain m the ground through the winter, and 
they will yield abundantly in the following season. Or, they 
can be set out in the spring, after having been kept in the 
cellar. 

Use. — The tender shoots of the second year's growth, when 
some four or five inches high, make an excellent substitute for 
asparagus. The root is palatable and wholesome — being good, 
it is said; for consumptive patients in particular. It is very 
inviting when prepared in the following way : — 

Artificial Oysters. — After the root has been scraped, and 
laid in water for several minutes, in order to abstract a part 
of its bitter flavor, it is to be boiled tender, and either cut in 
thin slices, or grated and pressed into little cakes, of the size 
of oysters. Dip the slices, or cakes, into a batter made of 
wheat flour, milk, and eggs; roll them in crumbled bread 
or crackers; and then drojj them into hot lard. When of a 
light brown color, they are suflSciently cooked, and ready to 
be carried to the table. 

^KVO^Y.—Satureja. 

An aromatic herb, the leaves of which have a warm pun- 
gent taste. The two species cultivated in the kitchen garden, 
viz.: — the Summer [S. hortensis,) an annual, and tlie Winter, 
(S. montana,) a perennial, — are believed to be both nativus of 
Italy. 

Culture. — Both species will grow upon poor soils, and are 
propagated in early spring by seed sown moderately thick. 
The Winter Savory is also grown from slips, and it is managed 
like Sweet Marjoram. For directions as to the culture of the 
other kind, the reader is referred to Sage. 



2t)0 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Use. — The leaves are gathered in the latter part of July, 
or tlie beginning of August, and dried for the use of the cook. 
Their agreeable warmth and flavor are much esteemed in 
salads. Formerly, they were employed for medicinal pur- 
poses, and, according to Professor Bradley, they possess the 
power of " expelling fleas from a bed." 

To pretierve Herbs for Winter use. — They should be 
gathered on a pleasant day, at that time when they are in 
their greatest perfection. When freed from dirt, they are to 
be put in a common Dutch oven, and dried quickly before the 
fire, without being scorched. They shall then be placed in a 
mortar, and pounded fine ; passed through a sieve, and put 
away in closely-corked bottles. They will thus retain their 
fragrance and flavor much longer, than when kept in paper 
bags, and exposed to smoke and steam ; besides bemg more 
convenient for the use of the cook. 

SCORZONERA. — Scorzonera Hispanica. 

Many cultivators prefer this vegetable to the salsify, which 
it greatly resembles in appearance, habits of growth, and taste 
of the roots. It is a native of Spain, and has long been culti- 
vated. It being so similar to the salsify, we do nut choose to 
recommend it to our readers, except to such as desire to have 
a great variety in their grounds, rather than a selection of tlie 
very choicest plants for domestic purposes. 

Culture. — Scorzonera prefers a soil that is mellow, deep, 
and moderately fertile, in an open situation. Sow during the 
month of April, or in the first week of May, in diills ten or 
twelve inches apart, and half an inch deep. The seed is to be 
dropped thinly, and when the plants are two inches high, they 
are to be thinned to distances of six or eight inches in the 
drill. Keep the soil at all times clean and light, and" give 
regular applications of water in dry weather. The roots are 



DICTIONARY. 261 

fit for use when the leaves begin to decay, and may be allowed 
to remain in the ground all winter, as they will not su(fer from 
frost, or be preserved in a box of sand in the cellar. 

Use.— The roots are nutritious and palatable ; and are used 
in soups, boiled like Carkots, or cooked in the same manner 
as Salsify. In Spain, scorzonera is considered a certain cur» 
for the bite of a serpent called tlie sciirzo. 

SEA-KALE. — Grambe mantima. 

Kale, as this plant is often called, is a species of sea-cab- 
bage growing wild upon the sandy coasts of Europe, — particu- 
larly of England and Ireland. From tune out of mind, its 
value as a pot herb has been known to the peasantry of those 
countries where it is found in a natural state, who, upon the 
appearance of the young shoots, in early spring, cut tliem off 
several inches below the surface, and boil them as greens. 
When these stalks are tender, before the leaf has opened, they 
make an excellent dish for the table. Althougli the merits of 
the plant were long since understood by the common people, 
yet it did not acquire much of a reputation for garden culture, 
until the beginning of the present century. Within a few 
years, it has been gradually extending itself in public favor, 
and is now an esteemed inmate of most English gardens ; but 
in this country, it is by no means as common as it ought to 
be. Such is its value as a table esculent during a season 
of many weeks, in addition to a hardy habit, and a ready 
growth, that we cordially recommend it to the reader's notice. 

Culture. — As regards soil, sea-kale is best suited with a 
sandy loam, wliicli is moderately rich, two or three feet deep, 
founded on a dry substratum, and having a free, open exposure. 
Ilie spot selected for the bed should be brought into this con- 
dition, before the plantation is made. Sand or coal ashes Will 



262 OARDENKll'S TEXT-BOOK. 

correct tenacity ; and a wet subsoil can be avoided by drain- 
ing. Decayed leaves are better than hot dung for enriching 
the ground, and, owing to the marine character of the plant, 
the application of salt, at the rate of one pound to four square 
yards, proves very beneficial. Upon starting right, depend 
the gardener's subsequent satisfaction and profit. 

Propagation is effected by seed and slips of old roots, but 
the first mode seems to be the one most generally adopted, 
as the plants are thought to be healthier and longer-lived than 
those obtained from slips. Lay the piece of ground, after it 
has been prepared in the manner above directed, into beds 
five feet wide. Through the middle of each, draw a drill 
about one inch deep, and another on each side, two feet dis- 
tant from the first. Sow the seeds in clusters of six or eight, 
eighteen inches apart in the drills. Water the ground freely 
during dry weather, and when the plants appear well estab- 
lished, pull up all except the strongest one in each stool. Little 
care is needed, other than keeping weeds under, and giving 
occasional waterings. The beds should have a winter protec- 
tion of earth, dung, leaves or sea-weed, three or four inches in 
depth; which is to be removed on the approach of warm 
weather, or, if well rotted, to be then forked into the ground. 

The only attention required on the part of the gardener, 
during tbe second summer, is to keep the ground in good 
order — light, clean, and moist in continued dry weather. Oc- 
casional applications of brine are found to be advantageous. 
By autumn, the plants will have attained a suitable size for 
bearing tlie first crop. To obtain shoots during the winter 
months, recourse must be had to 

Forcing. — The roots can be put in the forcing-pit, or in a 
hot-bed frame, — the glass being covered, so as to exclude 
light, and the ground frequently sprinkled with water. Or, 
they may be allowed to remain in the bed, covered with some 
fermenting substances to induce artificial heat. This is un- 
doubtedly the best plan. In the latter part of October, or in 



DICTIONARY. 263 

the beginning of the following month, the dead leaves and 
branches should be removed, and a little dung worked into 
the soil around the stools. Then, light earth or sarjd must be 
spread over the whole surface, to the depth of about three 
inches, and each stool covered by a small box, or a large-sized 
flower pot, the edges of which are pressed down into the 
sand, to prevent the entrance of steam from the dung which 
is to be placed around them. 

The pots are now to be covered with a compost of forest 
leaves and fresh dung, whicli were mixed in equal quantities 
some two or three weeks previous, in order that a regulai' heat 
might be obtained. This compost is either to be spread evenly 
over the bed to the depth of twenty-four inches, or put around 
each pot to the thickness of eight or ten inches. The tem- 
perature ought not to fall below 50°, and in extreme cold 
days, a covering of litter may be required, or perhaps the ad- 
dition of warm dung. When the heat is much above 60°, 
some of the covering should be removed. In four or five 
weeks, the pots can be examined, and the shoots will be found 
fit for use, when three inches high. In cutting, the dirt is 
scraped away from the sprout, which is then taken off close 
to the crown, with care not to mjure the young buds. Tlie bed 
will continue productive for about two months, when the 
covering should be gradually reduced, that the plants may 
not suffer from sudden exposure to the cold, after having been 
so long a time confined in a hot atmosphere. In spring, 
the surface is to be cleared, properly levelled, and enriched 
by a little of the rotten compost, so that the roots can have a 
healthy, natural growth durmg the summer. A top-dressing 
of salt, at the same time, prores as beneficial as upon the 
asparagus. 

It has been noticed that, unlike the generality of vegeta- 
bles, the shoots of sea-kale obtained by artificial heat, are al- 
ways more crisp and delicate than those produced in the 
natural way, later in the season. 



264 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

The open-air crop — is easily managed. Some persona re- 
commend covering the whole surface with layers of straw or 
loaves, or by inverting flower pots and boxes over the stools. 
Others are accustomed to spread upon the bed, early in spring, 
after the removal of the winter covering, ten or twelve inches 
of sand, through which the tender stalks will speedily show 
themselves, well blanched and pleasant to the taste. When 
the roots stop bearing, the sand is to be taken away, and a 
little rich compost dug in around them, that they may strength- 
en themselves for the next crop. A much better mode than 
either of the foregoing, is to spread over the whole bed, in 
autumn, a layer of black peat earth to the depth of fourteen 
or fifteen inches. This keeps the frost from penetrating to 
any considerable depth, and by its dark color attracts the 
sun's rays, so that tlie roots are excited into an earlier growth 
in the coming spring. When the season of cutting is over, the 
peat is to be removed to the compost heap, or to another part 
of the grounds. 

By a little management, the gardener can have sea-kale 
through a good part of the winter and spring months, thus 
furnishing his table with an excellent dish, at a small expense. 
The same bed will continue productive for near a dozen years ; 
and to avoid weakening the roots, it may be advisable to have 
two plantations, which are forced alternately. In this way, 
the season of the vegetable will be prolonged, and, every 
other sj^ring, tliose roots which sutTered from being forced the 
year previous, have an opportunity to regain their strength 
and vigor. Unless seed be wanted, no plant should be al- 
lowed to throw up its flower-stalks. 

For seed, — the plant must be permitted to grow without 
being blanched or deprived of its young shoots. 

Use. — Physicians and others speak highly of the sea-kale 
as an esculent. Dr. Curtiss remarks that, used with rhubarb, 
** it may save many pounds for medical attendance, and people 



A 



DICTIONARY". 263 

may soon say, ' I grow my own medicine.' " Another au- 
thority hus declared it to be " one of the most valuable acqui- 
sitions made to culinary vegetables within the last fifty years." 
The young shoots and stalks of the unfolded leaves, when 
blanched and tender, are boiled and dressed like asparagus. 
They also form an excellent ingredient in soups. 

To cook Sea-kale. — Soak the stalks in water for thirty 
minutes, and tie them up in small bundles. Boil them very 
tender, over a brisk fire, with a little salt in the pot ; drain olf 
the water, and lay them on a slice of toast which has been 
moistened in the liquor. Dress with melted butter, pepper 
and salt. 

SHALLOT.— ^^Z^m/n Ascalonicum. 

This member of the Allium tribe was originally found 
growing wild near Ascalon, in Palestine, whence has been 
derived its botanical name. It is supposed to have been in- 
troduced into England by the returned Crusaders, and is now 
known under the several appellations of Shallot, Escalot and 
Eschalot. The root is bulbous, resembhng the garlic, in being 
divided into cloves enclosed in a single membrane. From the 
circumstance of its rarely sending up a flower-stalk, it received 
from ancient authors the name of Barren-onion. 

Culture.— The shallot is best suited with a hght loam, of 
rather a sandy character, fertile, and free from excessive moist- 
m-e, besides being in a free, open situation. Rank manure is 
apt to produce maggots, which vrill oftentimes do the crop 
great injury ; and we, therefore, advise the use of compost, 
soot or bird's'dung, when the ground is not already sufficiently 
rich. 

Propagation is effected by offsets of the roots. Where the 
bed is dry, the offsets are best planted in the autumn ; but, 
otherwise, the labor should be deferred until the first part of 
23 



2(56 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

the follo^ving spring. Put them in rows, eight inches apart each 
way. When phxnted in autumn, they are to be set about 
three inches deep, but they must be uncovered in May, so 
that they may bulb well, and be less likely to suffer from the 
canker. When planted in spring, they shall be placed almost . 
on the surface. The soil ought to be kept light, and free from 
•weeds. As soon as the tops turn yellow, say in July or Au- 
gust, the roots must be taken up, and gradually dried in a 
place shaded from the noonday sun, by which means they 
may be preserved throughout the winter without difficulty. 

For seed^ — the offsets must be kept in a dry, airy place 
until spring, when they are to be put in the open ground. 

Use. — Although the shallot has a more pungent taste than 
some other members of the same family, yet it is rather more 
agreeable, and is often preferred to the common onion for use 
in pickling, seasoning soups, gravies, hashes and various other 
dishes. It is with some a favorite accompaniment to beef- 
steak. 

Shallot Sauce. — Put a few shallots in some clear gravy, 
together with half the quantity of good vinegar ; season with 
salt and pepper, and then boil for half an hour. 

SKIRRET. — Sium sisarum, 

Skirret is a perennial, and a native of China, which lias 
been cultivated in England for upwards of three centuries. 
It was much esteemed by the ancient Romans. The stem 
rises about a foot high, and is crowned by an umbel of white 
flowers. The root is composed of several long, fiesliy tubers, 
each one as large as the little finger, and joined together at 
the top. These, in times back, were thought highly of for th'e 
kitchen. A distinguished English horticulturist by the name 
of Worlidge, in the year 1682, speaks of them as " thesweet* 
est, whitest, and most pleasant of roots." 



DICTIONARY. 3(57 

Culture. — New plants are obtained from seed and off- 
sets of old roots, but the first method is decidedly the best. 
Tlie soil should be light, of a moderate degree of richness, and 
someAvhat moist ; whenever it is to be manured, the dung 
ought to be dug in with the lower spit. In dry ground, the 
crop will probably be small, unless the season should prove 
wet. 

Sow in the latter part of March, or any time during April, 
according to circumstances, in drills ten or twelve inches apart, 
and near one inch deep. As sooil as the seedlings are two 
inches high, they must be thinned out to distances of six or 
eight inches in the drill. No opportunity should be given 
the weeds to establish themselves, to the injury of the young 
plants. When the leaves decay in autumn, the roots are fit 
for use, and will be good until they begin to sprout in the fol- 
lowing spring. They are to be stored in the cellar, in a box 
of diy earth or sand. 

For seed, — it is only necessary to permit some of the plants 
to tlu'ow up their flower-stalks, in the second season. 

Use. — The tubers abound in saccharine particles, having 
somewhat the flavor of a parsnip. By some persons, they 
are considered much more palatable than that root. They are 
prepared for the table in various av ays ; — stewed ; boiled, and 
served with butter ; boiled, rolled in flour, and fried ; or boiled 
to be eaten cold with vinegar and oil. They possess diuretic 
qualities, and are in a slight degree stimulant. 

SORREL. — Rumex acefosa. 

A perennial weed, which is found growing naturally in 
poor, barren soils. It has a long root, with a stem one or tAvo 
feet high. The leaves are oblong and arrow-shaped ; they are 
remarkable for their acidity. The French sorrel, so highly 
valued in cookerv, seems to be of a different character, — being 



268 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

round-leaved, and having a much pleasantor flavor. Only a 
few plants will be required by a single family. 

Culture. — The most favorable soil is light and rather 
moist, in an open situation. Propagation is effected by sowing 
seed, or dividing old roots. Both methods can be practiced in 
spring, and the latter also in autumn. Sow in diills ten inches 
apart, and one half inch deep. The seedlings are subsequently 
to be thinned out to ten inches in the row ; and, in making a 
plantation of old roots theyare to be set at similar distances. 
An occasional watering may be necessary in dry weather, — 
particularly when the plants have not become well established. 
Keep the ground free from weeds, give it a slight dressing of 
manure in the spring, and, at the approach of frost, put on a 
little manure, or a covering of leaves. In summer, when the 
stalks show a disposition to run up to seed, they should be cut 
down, to encourage a new growth of herbage ; they ought also 
to be cut down late in autumn. 

For seed, — allow some of the seed-stalks to perfect them- 
selves, and they will yield abundantly. 

Use. — The acid juice of sorrel is often recommended for 
refreshing drinks in febrile complaints, but, as it is well known 
that it contains oxalic acid, a deadly poison, some degree of 
caution should be exercised in its use. It is valuable for 
taking spots of ink or iron-mould from linen. The leaves are 
by many highly esteemed in soups, sauces, salads, or when 
boiled plain like spinach. 

SPINACH. — Spinacia oleracea. 

A very hardy annual, which has for a long time been a 
favorite in the kitchen garden. Its name is derived from the 
Latin word spina, a thorn, in allusion to the prickly character 
of the seed. Its native country cannot now be determined, 



DICTIONARY. gg'g 

but it is by different individuals attributed to both Spain and 
Persia. In the monasteries on the continent of f]urope, it was 
in use as early as tlie year 1351, five centuries ago. The 
stem is smooth, and about two feet high ; tlie leaves are oi 
various sizes and shapes, according to the varieties ; while the 
male and female flowers are produced on separate plants, — 
the former growing in long, terminal spikes, and the latter in 
clusters about the stalk. The principal varieties are by no 
means numerous, viz. : — the Houwi-leaved, or Round-seeded, for 
tlie spring sowings ; — and the Prickly-seeded for the winter 
and spring crops. The New Zealand Spinach has been 
spoken of on page 213. 

Culture. — "With all spinaceous plants, or those which are 
cultivated for their succulent leaves, the principal point of 
good management consists in providing a fertile soil, and 
keeping it in excellent tilth throughout the growing season. 
Spinach is called " a gross feeder," and can scarce ever be 
placed in ground that is too rich, — for the quality of its leaves 
depends mainly upon the rapidity of* their growth. Tlie roots 
must be well supplied with food, or a good crop cannot be ex- 
pected. In summer, moisture in the soil is desirable, as the 
roots suffer much friun drought, while the situation sliould be 
open ; but, with the autumn sowings that are to be protected 
through the Avinter, for obvious reasons, a dry, warm, and 
rather sheltered bt)ider is to be preferred. 

For the winter and spring crops, the seed is to be sown, 
first about the middle of August, and again near the middle 
of September. The beds ought to be protected through all 
inclement weather by thin coverings of sti'aw, leaves, cedar- 
brush, mats, or something which will not press too lieavily 
upon the plants. By judiciously removing the cover in pleas- 
ant days, and carefully guarding against extreme cold, the 
gardener will be able to have a good supply of leaves from 
tlie first sowing through the whole winter. 
23^ 



270 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

The Round-lcavcd variety can be sown as early in the 
spring, as the ground is in good order. The sowing may be 
repeated every fortnight or three weeks until the last of May. 
When continued longer than the time mentioned, the plants 
will be affe'cted by the hot weather of June, and tlie following 
months, which causes them to run quickly to seed, without 
having a good growth of leaves. For the sowings even in the 
latter part of spring, it will be well to allot ground between 
the drills of peas and pole beans, for the benefit of the shadfl 
afforded by the tall vines. 

After the ground has been properly dng and enriched, it 
is to be laid out into beds four feet Avide. Spinach is often 
sown broadcast, but, while we see no advantage in this prac- 
tice, we find much to condemn. When put in drills, the gene- 
ral appearance of the garden is improved, and the labor of 
subsequent cultivation is considerably diminished. We recom- 
mend having the drills ten inches apart, and one third of an 
inch deep. One ounce of seed is sufficient for one hundred, or 
one hundred and twenty-five, feet of drill. It should be 
dropped thin, and covered evenly. When the ground is dry, 
it ought to be rolled, or pressed by a person's walking upon a 
long board, or gently beaten by the spade. 

The young plants will present themselves above the sur- 
face in the course of ten days. As soon as they appear to be 
w^ell established they should be hoed and thinned out to dis- 
tances of three or four inches in the row. When they are so 
much grown as to be in danger of crowding one another, every 
other one can be drawn for boiling, by which means the others 
will have a fair chance to mature. A very little experience 
will satisfy the cultivator, that spinach does not flourish when 
confined in close quarters. Unless plenty of room be given, 
the stalks will be tall and spindling, and the leaves small. It 
is ever necessary that the soil be kept light and permeable 
to atmospheric influences. In hoeing, care ought to be taken 
not to choke the heart of tLe plant by covering it with eai'th. 



DICTIONARy. 271 

In dry weather, great benefit will be derived from the regular 
application of water at evening. Where there is a deficiency 
of moisture, the whole top of the plant is ever found dry and 
hard, instead of large and succulent. The principles of man- 
agement appear to be simply : — having a rich soil, in an open 
situation ; giving the plants sufficient room ; preventing the 
growth of weeds ; keeping the ground light ; and supplying 
moisture during dry Aveather. 

For seed, — let tlie flower-stalks grow up without molest- 
ation. It will not be wise to pull up the male-flowering 
plants, lest the others prove unfruitful. When tlie number 
of the first is too large, a portion can be immediately re- 
moved ; and the whole can be taken, as soon as the female 
blossoms are set. Put the seed-stalks, when gathered, upon a 
cloth, and let them become perfectly dry, before you attempt 
threshing them. 

Use. — The leaves, when green and tender, are put in 
soups, and boiled as greens. Physicians do not agree in regard 
to the effects of spinach upon the system. The Frenph esteem 
it " not only food but physic," terming it figuratively " the 
broom of the stomach," as sweeping that organ of many ill 
affections and disorders ; and, we bejieve, that it is generally 
considered innocent, although devoid of nutriment, and may be 
eaten when other vegetables are not allowed by the medical 
attendiuit. It certainly is a familiar dish at table, and with 
most families is thought indispensable in its seasoa 

To boil Greena. — Under the general name of " greens" is 
comprised the succulent leaves of several vegetables, such as 
spinach, beet, mustard, etc. They should be washed very 
clean, and, if not freshly gathered, ought to be soaked in salt 
and water for thirty minutes before being put in the pot. Boil 
in a little water, with salt and salaratus added, to preserve 
their color. Take off the scum as it rises. Wlien sufficiently 
cooked, they are to be drained, and seasoned with butter and 



272 GARDEA'ER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

jDepper. A hard-boiled egg, cut in slices, and laid on the top 
of the dish, much improves its appearance. 

SQUASH. — Citcurhita melopepo. 

This well known and highly esteemed vegetable is a mem- 
ber of the Cucurhlta, or Gourd, family, some species of which 
are very beautiful and are cultivated for ornament, while 
otliers are considered curiosities, on account of their immense 
size, and others are used for culinary purposes. The squash 
has been thought the link which connects the melon and the 
pumpkin. It is so much of a favorite in this country, that it is 
generally raised in the kitchen garden ; but, on account of the 
large space it occupies, as well as of its liability to intermix- 
ture with other vines, we advise that it be kept without the 
gai'den limits, whenever the cultivator has other ground at his 
disposal. The best varieties are — the Earhj Orange, — the 
Early Basil, — the Large Green Striped, — and the Autumn 
Marroio. Tlie Valparaiso, which sometimes attains the weight 
of near one hundred pounds, is a very excellent kind, and 
should be brought into general use. 

Culture. — As the squash is quite sensitive to cold, and 
will not start well in spring, until the weather becomes fine, it is 
not advisable to plant the seed before the first week of May. 
It will huurisli on any good soil, and requires much less care 
than the cucumber or melon. The ground should be marked 
out for hills, at distances of six to ten feet apart each way, ac- 
cording to the variety cultivated. In making the hills, a hole 
is to be dug for each to the depth of a few inches, filled with 
compost or rotten dung, and covered with three or four inches 
of loam, upon which lialf a dozen seeds are to be planted. At 
this rate, one ounce of seed will plant from sixty to eighty 
or a hundred iiills. Keep the surface liglit and clean at all 
times, and draw a little soil around the stems for their support. 



DICTIONARl . 273 

Tliree vines are quite enough for a single hill, and their lead- 
ing shoots may be stopped, so as to induce tlie speedy forma- 
tion of fruitful laterals. For advice in regard to the attacks of 
insects, we refer the reader to our article on the " Destruction 
OF Vermin." The squashes are fit for use, when as large as a 
cocoa-nut, and contiime in season until the rind becomes hard. 

Use. — No American needs to be told the value of the squash 
as an addition to the dinner table. Much of its excellence, how- 
ever, depends upon the manner in which it may be cooked, for 
some persons will send it from the kitchen so hard, or so 
full of water, that it is scarcely fit to be eaten. Many 
housewives are accustomed to prepare it in the shape of 
pies, after the same receipt as given for the Pumpkin. 

To boil. — If very young and tender, it may be boiled 
whole ; but, otherwise, should first be freed from its seeds, 
pared, and cut into strips. When quite soft, it is to be 
mashed, drained, and then seasoned with cream or butter, 
pepper and salt. 

STRAWBERRY.— i?Va^aHa. 

Tliis fruit has been aptly termed " the most delicious and the 
most wholesome of all berries." It is a native of the cold and 
tempera+e regions of both hemispheres, and is very exten- 
sively diffused, particularly in Europe and America. The 
root throws out many slender, creeping shoots, which fasten 
themselves to the ground at intervals, and form so many new 
stalks. The leaves are each composed of three leaflets, sup- 
ported on a long footstalk. After the season of flowering, the 
eeedreccptacle increases, acquires a pulpy and succulent con- 
sistence, and finally a red color when it has attained maturity. 
Tlie name is said to have arisen from the ancient practice of 
putting straw around the plants, for the purpose of keeping 
the berry free from dust and sand. The botanical appellation 



274 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

is derived from fragrans, in allusion to the delightful fragrance 
of the well ripened fruit. 

It is not many years since it has been brought into general 
cultivation, and the course of treatment pursued in early 
times was about as imperfect, as the number of varieties was 
limited. The poet Tusser, who wrote in 1557, says that the 
best plants were to be found " growing abroad, among thorns 
in the wood," and turns them over to the female members of a 
family, as though unwoi-thy the attention of the men. Modern 
skill and care, however, have brouglit the strawberry into high 
repute. It now occupies a conspicuous position in most private 
gardens, while in some sections of the country it is extensively 
cultivated for market. One grower, in 184.6, picked one hun- 
dred and twenty-eight bushels daily at the height of the sea- 
son. Under proper management, it can be made very profit- 
able : instances are recorded of crops being at the rate of from 
81000 to '11600 per acre ; but the fair average product is prob- 
ably not far from $350, which is certa-nly a good return upon 
the investment. In f;ict, it is so productive and easy of culti- 
vation, that it is really a matter of wonder why so many fam- 
ilies are willing to be without it. 

In its wild or natural state, the plant produces " perfect " 
flowers, or such as contain both stamens and pistils — the male 
and female organs. When brought under high culture, many 
varieties lose this character, and the flowers become what is 
called " imperfect," — that is, either the stamens, or the pistils, 
as the case may be, are imperfectly developed. Wliere the 
stamens are wanting, or so small and imperfect as to be inca- 
pable of fertilizing the pistils, the plant is termed " pistillate, 
or female." Wh(;re the pistils are defective, the plant is then 
known as a " staminate, or male," variety. As a natural re- 
sult of this change, the berry either does not set, or else it is 
of small size and little value. Gardeners, therefore, are accus- 
tomed to associate the two classes of plants, in order to secure 
a crop. In Fig. 25 the staminate flower is indicated by the 



•DTCTTONARY. 



275 



letter a, and the pistillate flo-vrer by the letter h, .ind Ihe per* 
feet flower, in whicli both stamens and pistils are developed, 
by the letter c. In Fig. 26 are represented portions of the first 
two, as they appear in a microscope ; the stamens being 
marked a, and the pistils, h. The greatest bearers being pis- 
tillates, they are usually selected for the beds, a smaller num- 
ber of the less productive staminates being placed in the 
neighborhood to secure fertilization. 





Fi<!. 26. 




The varieties have become very numerous, and within a 
Bhort period many have been introduced to the public, that 
are of peculiar excellence. Nevertheless, it is well understood 
that most of tlie " seedlings " brought forward from time to 
time, with high-sounding names and finely-di-awn descriptiona 



276 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

of their goorl qualities, are of little or no value. Aided by 
tlie publit^hc'd experience of others, we venture to present the 
following; select list of the choicest kinds, — the class to which 
each belongs being designated, by the letter 8 for staminates, 
and by the letter p for pistillates. Wo enumerate — the Large 
Early Scarlet (s), — -the Boston Pine (s), — Hovcys Seedling (p), 
-^Burrs New Pine (p), — and the Dundee (p). As with all 
fruits, these varieties differ in quality according to climate, 
season, soil, exposure, etc. 

Culture. — Four things appear to be essential to success in 
the cultivation of the strawberry, viz. : a good selection of va* 
rieties, — a favorable situation, — careful culture, — and a re- 
newal of the bed once in every three or four years. The 
labor, apart from the formation of the bed, is but trifling, and 
is, indeed, often over-estimated ; while the necessary annual 
outlay, is of small account in a garden of common dimensions. 
A moderate ci'op yields a rich reward for the expense incurred. 
When we see our own vines literally covered with fruit, 
tempting to the eye, and pleasant to the taste, we cannot but 
inquire how it happens, that a farmer, or a gardener, or any 
person in the country Imving a rod of spare ground, can be 
without a plantation of strawberries. 

The situation of the bed ought always to be open, away 
from close fences, trees and builcHngs, so tliat tlie plants may 
not suffer from the want of liglit and air. To liave a succes- 
sion of crops, one bed may lie towards the soutli, and a second 
have an inclination to the north. Where the soil is not nat- 
urally of a suitable character, it should be brought into that 
condition before the plants are set out. A good loam, light 
rather tlian heavy, deep, rich, and sonnnvhat moist, is un- 
doubtedly to be prefen-ed. It needs to be friable so as to be 
easily wor'ked, and yet not so light as to suffer from drought. 
It would seem that a slight degree of moisture is indispensable 
to the fiill perfection of the fruit. Moreover, the soil should 



DICTIONARY. 277 

be botli deep atid rich, that the roots may have plenty of room 
in which to extend themselves, together with a good supply of 
food suited to their wants. To prepare the ground for a 
})lantHtion in the best manner, we would recommend trench- 
ing and manuring it several months previously, taking care 
that the manure shall be well incorporated. Instead of using 
common stable dung alone, we should rather apply it in con- 
nection with leaves, decayed wood, ashes, plaster, salt, or 
bone-dust. It sometimes happens that too large a supply of 
dung, causes a rank growth of vines, without a corresponding 
return of berries. 

After the ground has been properly dug, — all the lumps 
being pulverized, and the surface raked smooth, — rows are to 
be struck out at distances of two, or two and a half, feet from 
each other. In our own garden, we should be willing to allow 
even more room, being under the impression that there is such 
a tiling as crowding the plants, and thereby injuring their 
productive powers. The months of April and May, or August 
and September, are the proper seasons of the year for making 
new plantations. The first season is undoubtedly the best, 
because the newly-transplanted vines then lequire less atten- 
tion than they would in the heat (^f summer, and the first fair 
crop will be a twelvemonth earlier. 

The best plants are the young, healthy-looking runners 
fiom old stocks. They are to be set out at distances of twelve 
or eighteen inches in the rows, A hole is made by means of 
a small dibble, and before the root is inserted, it should be 
dipped in mud, a semi-fluid mass of dung and \^-ater, or even 
simyjle water, in order that the freshly-stirred earth may ad« 
here to the fibres. We have already noticed the necessity of 
])ntting staminatc plants in the immediate vicinity of the pis- 
tillatcs. Still, to prevent the first named from usurping the 
place tif the latter, as by reason of their greater luxuriance 
they would be apt to do, the two classes must be ke|)t dis- 
tinct, and only near enough together to secure fertilizatiou. 
'24 



278 gardenp:rs text-book. 

Tlius, every fifth or sixth row may be of staminates exclusivelyy 
and by keeping their runners confined ■within proper bounds, 
there will be no chance of their crowding out the more val- 
uable pistillates. Perhaps, our idea will be better understood 
by the following diagram, in which the classes of the plants 
are designated by the letters s and p. 

SPPPPS3PPPP8 
SPPPPSPPPPS 
SPPPPSPPPPS 

Every root ought to be set firmly, and when the opera- 
tion is not followed by a shower, the ground ought to be well 
watered. If the season be autumn, the new beds require not 
a little attention, and the liberal application of water will be 
frequently necessary, until the roots become established. 
Wlienever practicable, transplanting ought to be performed in 
dull, damp weather. 

It will ftot be long before runners show themselves, and 
insteacUof being allowed to roam over the bed at will, they 
must be trained along the rows so as to form parallel lines of 
plants, with good, wide paths between them. Tliis system of 
cult^ure is preferable to every other for many reasons, and 
principally on account of its being more convenient of access 
for weeding and gathering the fruit, Ligiit and air are freely 
admitted to the leaves, while the roots iiave a large foraging 
ground beneath the unoccupied paths. The hoe must be 
often used, as well to keep the surfiice light and porous, as to 
eradicate the young weeds before they have taken possession^ 
A full grown weed in a strawberry bed, speaks but little in 
praise of the owner's industry, or skill in gai-dening. In severe 
hot weather, the plants ought to be examined every day, to 
ascertain whether they be suffering from the want of moisture. 
This is particularly necessary where the situation is dry and 
ia a warm exposure. But, in most cases, frequent stirring of 



DICTIONARY. 279 

tlie soil will attract sufficient moisture from the atmosphere. 
IMulching, or covering the surface with straw or leaves, is to 
be recommended, as checking evaporation, and preventing 
the parching effects of drought. 

In the beginning of winter, a covering of leaves, straw or 
any light litter should be given, to prevent injury from frost. 
"When the land is not quite rich enough, this is a good time to 
dig a little compost into the paths, to keep the roots warm 
tlu'ough the winter, and cause them to start thi"iftily in the 
spring. 

As soon as the weather becomes settled in March or April, 
tlie covering is to be removed, and the ground ought to be 
frequently stirred, until the flowers open. At this time, clean 
straw, sea-weed, or coarse hay, can be spread around the plants, 
for the purpose of protecting the berries from sand ; this also 
is useful in keeping the soil moist, and, when decayed, it forms 
an excellent manure. After the blossoms fall, the growing 
berries ought to be occasionally watered, in case the season 
prove dry. Throughout the summer and autumn, the runners 
are to be confined to the rows from which they start, unless 
new plants are wanted, when they may be permitted to root 
themselves in the paths. No room should be allowed a weed 
or a blade of grass. The same course of management is to be 
pm-sued annually thereafter. 

A strawberry bed cannot be expected to remain in perfec- 
tion longer than four years, and to ensure a regular supply of 
fruit, it is advisable to make a new plantation in every second 
year. There is, however, a plan of renewing the bed at the 
end of .eacli season, which is simple, and answers a good pur- 
pose. Wae rows are about three feet apart, that the paths 
may be as wide as the spaces occupied by the plants. After 
the crop.'tias been gathered, the runners are allowed to strike 
themselves into IB paths, which have been previously enriched 
by niaiuue Avhen not sufficiently fertile. With a little care, 
they will cover the ground very regularly. In the latter part 



280 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

of summer, the old plants are to be spaded under, and the 
spaces which they occupied are now to be used as paths. At 
the close of the next season, the process is to be repeated, and 
so henceforth until tlie land has become tired of the berry, 
wlien the plantation may be removed to another part of the 
garden. It will be observed that the strips of land are every 
other season at rest, while their principal production, the old 
vines, are dug under for the benefit of the roots. 

Use.— No reader needs to be told in what universal favor 
this luscious and wholesome fruit is held. It consists almost 
entirely of matter soluble in the stomach, and never grows acid 
by fermentation. Hence, it is found very nourishing, and may 
not only be eaten witli safety by invalids, but is furthermore 
known to exercise a healthful influence in many cases ot 
disease. The great Linnaeus was cured of the gout by par- 
taking freely of strawberries. In fact, they disagree with but 
few constitutions. The flavor is equalled by the delightful 
perfume which they exhale. Even the muse has sung of 

" A dish of ripe strawberries, smothered in cream." 

Eaten alone, or with sugar and cream, they are highly prized 
for the dessert ; and tliey are invaluable for pies, tarts, ices, 
jams, and })reserves. The juice, which has rather a subacid 
taste, is made into a cool, refreshing drink, known as bavaroise 
a la grecqne, as well as into a very pleasant wine. 

Strawberry Preserve. — The berries, after being hulled, are 
put in a large dish, in layers with an equal weight of fine 
white sugar, — a layer of fruit being at the bottom of the dish. 
At the end of an hour, pour in a gill of cold water. ..Set the 
whole upon a moderate fire, which is to be increased from the 
time the juice runs freely imtil the syiu^boils quite brisk. 
Let it boil for half an hour, then turn th^^eetmeata into a 
dish, and before they are cold, put them into buttles, which 
are to be sealed tight and kept in dry sand. 



DlCTlOXARf. 281 

Strawberry Jelly. — Bruise the ripe fruit, and let the juice 
run througli a flannel bag without pressure. To each pint add 
one pound of powdered white sugar ; and for eveiy three 
pounds of sugar, add the beaten wliite of an egg. In boiling 
the syrup, tlie vessel should always be taken from the fire 
when it is to be skimmed. The jelly is boiled enough, when a 
little of it will drop in a solid lump to the bottom of a tumbler 
of cold water. Keep in glasses, covered with clean paper, 

SWEET VO'YKTO.— Convolvulus batatas. 

A convolvulus, deriving its name from the agreeable sweet- 
ness of the root. It is believed to be a native of the East 
Indies, although ascribed to many different countries by vari- 
ous authors. Formerly, it was imported into England from 
Spain and the Canaries, and sold as a great delicacy. It 
"was supposed to have the power of restoring decayed vigor. 
It is said to be the potato of Shakspeare, and cotemporary 
writers, as at the time he wrote, the common vegetable of 
that name was scarcely known in Europe, Tlius Falstaff, in 
the " ^lerry Wives of Windsor," cries '' Let the sky rain pota- 
toes, let it thunder to the tune of ' Green Sleeves,' hail kissing- 
comfits, and snow eringoes." The sweet potato is now culti- 
vated in all the warmer portions of the globe, where, owing to 
the favorable influences of climate, it may be had on the table 
for many months. In this country, it is a great favorite with 
the people of the southern and middle states, and large tracts 
'are annually devoted to its production. The roots are large, 
fleshy, and spindle-shaped ; containing much sugar mixed with 
farina. The vines are herbaceous, taking root at intervals ; 
while the leaves are smooth, and generally three-lobed. The 
varieties are numerous, but those cultivated at the south are 
much superior to our own northern kinds. 

Culture. — Tlie best soil for the sweet potato plant is light, 
24* 



282 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

dry, of rather a sandy character, and in a warm situation. It 
Bhould be prepared for phinting, by being deeply dug or 
ploughed, and enriched by a liberal application of manure. All 
the large clods ought to be pulverized. The ground can then 
be laid into beds three feet "vvide, with a very shallow drill 
through the middle of each, or marked out in hills, three feet 
apart each way. 

Where the season is of sufficient length, the seed potatoes 
may be planted immediately in the beds prepared for their 
reception ; but, in northern climates, artificial heat is necessary , 
to procure early plants. In the latter case, the roots are to be 
split and placed about three or four inches deep in the soil of a 
hot-bed, sometime during the latter part of spring. This bed 
is composed of good, warm dung, to the depth of twelve or fif- 
teen inches, covered with eight inches of sandy loam. Where 
the gardener is without sash-lights, he can shelter the bed 
with half a foot of litter, well pressed down, and protected 
from rain by a roof of old boards. The soil should be exam- 
ined every day, to ascertain whether the heat of the dung be 
too great ; in which case, air must be admitted freely in all 
pleasant weather. The runners will show themselves in the 
course of a fortnight or three weeks, and the bed ought, during 
the process of sprouting, to receive an occasional sprinkling of 
water. When three inches high above the surface, they are of 
tlie right size for removal to the open ground. In taking them 
up, place the left hand on the potato, to keep it from moving, 
and draw them, one by one, with the right hand. If they be 
planted in drills, they should be set about nine or ten inches 
asunder ; but, if in hills, two plants must be allotted to eacli. 
The operation is most successful, when performed at evening, 
or in damp, cloudy weather ; and, in a dry time, frequent ap- 
plications of water, until the roots have taken hold firmly, will 
be found of great advantage. The potatoes'in the bed will 
continue throwing up sprouts, for as much as three or four 
weeks. 



DICTIONARY. 283 

Wliere the climate is so mild as to render forcing need- 
Less, the spUt potatoes are, in early spring, placed in the open 
ground, at similar distances. It is found better to split large po- 
tatoes, than to plant small ones uncut. The covering of soil is 
to be near two inches deep, and rather hollowed upon the top, 
BO as to catch the rain. 

The bed ought to be carefully cultivated, particularly in 
the early part of the season. The roots must have plenty of 
Jight and warmth during their young growth ; and, after they 
become well established, the soil is to be drawn up around 
them by means of the hoe, but not so as to form a ridge to turn 
off the rain. It is recommended tliat, when the vines attach 
themselves to the ground, they be forcibly torn up, by slipping 
a rake-handle, or otlier long stick, under them, and raising it 
gradually. This will throw the vigor of the runners into the 
roots. 

The crop is fit for harvesting, when the tops decay. Keep- 
ing the roots through the winter is usually found a difficult 
matter. The best plan is to dry them in tlie sun, until their 
moisture is evaporated, then to sweat them in heaps, previous 
to being packet! m dry sand. We know of some northern cul- 
tivators, who even take the trouble to wrap each root in a 
piece of paper, before putting it in the barrel. Probably, the 
most suitable place for the barrel or bin is a dry cellar, which 
is perfectly free from frost. Ri order to ensure success, it seems 
to be necessary to keep tlie potatoes from frost, dampness, 
light and air. Sometimes, the crop is placed in heaps, five or 
six feet high, built upon a dry situation in the field. A founda- 
tion is made of cornstalks or brush, and the lieap is covered 
with the same, and with a foot of earth upon the outside. The 
top should be sheltered from rain, by a roof of boards ; and 
there ought to be a ditch around the heap, to prevent any 
water getting to the interior. A hole in the top, partially 
closed with straw, gives the heated air a chance to escape. 

^or seed, — the roots must be taken very carefully from the 



284 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

ground, as the least bruise engenders decay. Tliey are to be 
packed in leaves or sand, which have been exposed to tlie in- 
fluence of the sun or a fire until perfectly dry, and then stored 
in a room where no injury is to be apprehended from the cold. 

Use. — The peculiar, agreeable flavor of the root has long 
rendered it a favorite at the table. It is called easy of diges- 
tion, wholesome and nutritious. Containing more saccharine 
matter than the potato, it is better liked by riiost people. It is 
not so good when boiled as when baked, a fact that will be 
readily admitted by those who try it both ways. It also makes 
an excellent bread, for which consult the receipt on page 239. 
The young, tender vines are by some persons esteemed as a 
pot-herb. 

Sweet Potato Pie. — Boil the potatoes very soft ; then peel 
and mash them. To every quarter of a jwund, put one quart 
of milk, three tablespoonfuls of butter, four beaten eggs, to- 
gether with sugar and nutmeg to the taste. It will be much 
improved by the addition of a glass of wine. 

Swiss Chakd.— /See BEET. 

TANSY. — Tanacetum vulgare. 

Tansy is a perennial, which is to be found growing wild 
in many parts of Europe, and is now naturalized in this 
country. The stem rises about two feet above the ground, 
bearing golden yellow flowers. The whole plant lias a sliarp^ 
bitter taste, togetlier with a powerful, aromatic odor, which 
are agreeable to some j>erson3. Tlie Curled-leaved variety is 
about the only one cultivated for culinary purposes. 

Culture. — It is propagated in spring by seed, rooted slips 
or divisions of the roots. The plants should stand from twelve 
to eighteen inches asunder. The best soil is one of a di'j» 



DICTIONARY. 285 

light and moderately fertile character, in an open situation. 
It is sometimes necessary to Avater a new plantation, when 
dry weather succeeds. The ground is to be frequently stirred, 
and all up-^tart weeds are to be eradicated. Cutting down 
tlie large stalks will encourage a growth of young leaves. In 
autumn, the decayed branches should be removed, and a little 
good loam spread over the bed. 

Use. — Tansy is now but little regarded by the herb-doc- 
tor, although formerly thought highly of for its virtues as a 
stimulant and carminative. The young leaves are sometimes, 
though not frequently, shredded to color and flavor puddings, 
omelettes, etc. 

* 
TARRAGON". — Artemisia draeunculus. 

A perennial, originally from the noi*thern part of Asia. It 
was brought to England in 1548, and has there obtained the 
name of Dragon's-wort. It has a fragrant smell and an aro- 
matic taste, for "which it is greatly esteemed by the French. 
Only one variety is grown for culinary purposes. 

CuLTDEE. — Plants are obtained from seed sown in the 
spring, or from cuttings, slips or offsets of the root, set out 
in either spring or autinnn. They should be about one foot 
distant from each other. They flourish best m soil which is 
poor and dry, in a warm situation, because they often suffer 
from frost when they grow too luxuriantly. A little water, 
apj)lied every now and then, is of great benefit to the roots 
before they become well established. The ground should be 
kept clean, and the stalks must not be permitted to run up 
unless seed is wanted. Some winter protection ought to be 
afforded the plants, by a covering of straw or any coarse 
litter. 



286 CTARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Use. — In Persia it has long been customary to use the 
leaves of tarragon to create an appetite. Together with the 
young tops, they are put in salads to correct the coldness of 
other herbs, in pickles, and in vinegar for fish-sauce. They 
are also eaten with beefsteaks, si;rved up with ht)rse-radish. 
They are in the best state to be dried for winter use, in July 
and August. The superior vinegar of Miiille, in France, owes 
itrt flavor to this plant. 

THYME. — Thymus vulgaris. 

An evergreen shrub, originally from southern Europe. It 
Jrns a strong, penetrating odor, together with a sharp, pungent 
laste. Its name is derived from the Greek word for courage, ia 
allusion to its supposed qualities for reviving the strength and 
cheering the spirits. On account of its fragrance, it was for- 
merly used in sacrificing. The varieties are, — the Narrow- 
leaved, — the Broad-leaved, — and the Variegated ; — the last of 
which is grown almost wholly on account of its ornamental 
appearance. 

Culture. — The best soil is one that is poor, light and 
warm, in a free, open exposure. Plants ai'e obtained either 
from seed, sown in sliallow drills six inches apart, or from 
rooted slips, set out in rows six inches apart each way. Early 
spring is tlie most suitable period for making a new bed, and 
it should be done, if possible, on a damp, cloudy day. In dry 
weather, the surface of the seed bed ought to be gently 
pressed by the spade or board, and the rooted slips must re- 
ceive an occasional sprinkling until they become well estab- 
lished. 

AV hen .the seedlings are one or two inclies above the ground, 
they are to be thinned to distances of six niches in the drill, and 
those pulled can be set out in another place, wliera tliey will 
lake a good start, if kept uioist. The ground ^nould at al! 



DICTIONARY. 287 

times be clean and light. In autumn, the decayed branches 
are to be removed, and the stools covered with a little mold. 
For seed, — the stalks must be permitted to flower. Cut 
the stalks before the rain has an opportunity to wash out the 
eeed, and dry them in the shade. 

Use. — Owing to their aromatic qualities, the young leaves 
and tops are valued for seasoning soups, sauces and other 
culinary preparations. An infusion is excellent as a tonic for 
the stomach, and as a cure for the headache. They are pre- 
served for winter use, by being cut when the flowers have 
Just opened, in June or July, and dried before the fire, to be 
powdered and kept in tight bottles. The whole plant yields 
an essential oil, which is highly charged with camphor. 

TO M ATO. — Solamitn ly coper sicum. 

One of the most interesting facts in the history of tliis 
vegetable, is its sudden rise in public favor in this country. 
It was formerly known as the Love Apple, and cultivated in 
the flower garden for its ornamental appearance, the fruit 
being by some persons considered poisonous. Within a very 
few years, however, it has attained a high reputation among 
esculents, and, in the neighborhood of cities, large fields are 
annually 'devoted to its production for market. It belongs to 
tlie same genus as the jjotato and the egg-plant. It was in- 
troduced into Europe from South America in the year 1596, 
and derived the name of tomato from the Portuguese, The 
plant is an annual of rank growth, the leaves somewhat re- 
sembling those of the potato, but the flowers are yellow, while 
the fruit is about the size of a small apple, with an acid flavor 
that is quite disagreeable to those unaccustomed to it. The 
principal varieties have received their names from the pecu- 
liar shape and color of their fruit, viz : — the Large Red, — the 
Large Yellow, — the Pear-shaped, — and the Cherry- shaped, — 
the last two of whi«h ar« mostly used for pickling purposes 



288 " GARDETfER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

Culture. — As with every other choice vegetable, the first 
supply of tomatoes in the season commands an unusually high 
price, and affords a good profit. It is, therefore, an object 
with market gardeners to bring the first crop to maturity aa 
soon as possible. To other cultivators this should be not less 
desirable, because early vegetables are highly prized in all 
kitchens, and must certainly reduce the expense of living. 

In order to obtain early plants, many small cultivators aro 
in the habit of sowing the seed, somewhere about the last of 
March, in boxes which are to be placed in the windows of a 
warm room. When the weather becomes mild and pleasant, 
the seedlings will have attained a suitable height for removal 
to the garden, where they ought to be protected during night^a 
and cool days until they are accustomed to the change of situ- 
ation. 

But those persons who are supplied with the necessary 
conveniences, will find it most for their interest to mahe use 
of a gentle hot-bed. The heat should not be violent, and the 
covering of mold may be about six inches in depth. Tlie 
seed — one ounce of which is considered sufficient for from 
three to four thousand plants, — is sown quite early in spring, 
thinly, and covered one third of an inch deep. As soon aa 
the plants are two inches high, they must be properly thinned, 
Qr they will be injured by standing too close together. For 
this first thinning, the right distance is near three inches apart. 
Those wliich are drawn can be set in a similar bed, to be wa- 
tered and shaded until well rooted. 

The cultivator must be careful to admit air freely to his 
seedlings under glass, during all pleasant weather. The ob- 
servance of this rule seems to be indispensable to a successful 
result, for, when confined in a warm atmosphere without a 
free circulation of air, they soon become spindling and weak. 
It being desirable to remove them to the open ground, with- 
out doing the roots any more injury than is unavoidable, it is a 
good plan to put some of those wliich are most advanced into 



DICTIONARY. 289 

pots, to be kept in the frame until May, and then set out with 
balls of earth attached. Tliis single thing may make a dif- 
ference of several days in the maturity of the crop, — a cir- 
cumstance by no means to be overlooked. 

At the latter part of April, or the beginning of May, ac- 
cording to the character of the season, the most forward plants 
are to be placed in a border, sheltered from cold winds and 
having the full influence of the sun. The most suitable soil is 
one that is rich, light, easily worked, and neither wet nor dry. 
When the border is not sufficiently rich, it will be well to set 
the plants in holes, which have been filled with good com- 
post. They should stand about three feet apai't, and, if pos- 
sible, against the south side of a fence or trellis. They are to 
be gradually hardened, and during all inclement weatlier, as 
well as during cold nights, must be screened by hand-glasses, 
small boxes or flower pots. Shade may be necessary at noon- 
day, until they appear well established. Careful attention will 
be required to prevent loss of vigor by the change of situation. 

llie seed for the main crop is to be sown as soon as the 
weather becomes settled in April or May. It should be got 
into the ground as early in the season as may seem prudent, 
because tliere is some danger of the crop being overtaken by 
frost in the following autumn. Make the bed in a warm bor- 
der, and transplant in the latter part of May. 

The duties of the cultivator are simple and easy of ap- 
plication. He must hasten the growth of tlie plants by all means 
in his jx)wer. The surface soil is to be stirred frequently with 
the hoe, and a little drawn up to the stems for their support. 
Where the bi-anches are not kept erect by being trained upon 
the fence or trellis, it is usual to put brushwood around them, 
for the same purpose. Covering the ground with refuse straw 
or litter, is found beneficial as checking evaporation, pre- 
venting injury from drought, and keeping the fruit clean. It 
is a good plan to cut oflf the tops of the stems, not long after 
the blossoms fall, which accelerates the ripening of the crop. 
25 



290 GARDE]>rER'S TEXT-BOOK, 

Some persons are in the habit of pulling up tlie plants when 
frost is expected, atid either hanging them in a dry, airy apart- 
ment, or laying them in an empty hot-bed frame, with the 
glass kept close. By so doing, the season of the fruit can be 
still further extended. 

For seed, — some of the most forward fruit is to be left 
on the bushes until it becomes perfectly ripe. Then the seed 
is to be washed from tlie beny, and after being dried, put 
away in paper bags. 

Use. — Perhaps no fruit or vegetable described in this vol- 
ume, is prepared in such a variety of ways as tlie tomato. 
"When green, it is made into pickles and sauces ; and, when 
ripe, into soups, stews and sauces ; besides being pickled, pre- 
served, roasted, and made into catsup. But, it is said, that 
compared with the Italians, we have little idea of the many 
forms in which it can be brought to the table. We have 
room for only a few receipts. 

To cook. — If the tomatoes aie not quite ripe, dipping them 
into hot water will loosen their skins so that they may be 
easily peeled. Put them in a stew pan, together with a table- 
spoonful of water, in case they are not very juicy. Add a 
little butter and salt, and stew the whole for lialf an hour. 

Anotlier way, — is to put them in a deep dish, witli layers of 
bread crumbs or powdered crackers, being well seasoned with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sugar. The top layer sliould be of 
crumbs. Bake for half an hour. 

Tomato Omelette. — Take a stew pan, and melt a piece of 
butter the size of a nutmeg. Minoe up an onion very fine, 
and fry it quite brown. Add ten peeled tomatoes, seasoned 
with pepper and salt, and stir them until cooked to a soft pulp. 
Then ^tir in four beaten eggs, until the undert^ide of tlie mass 
becomes brown. Lay a plate on. top, turn the pan upside 
down, and the omelette is ready for the table. 

Tomato Marmalade. — Gather full-grown tomatoes wliea 



DICTIONARY. 291 

quite green. Stew tliem until soft, when they are to be 
rubbed through a sieve, again put over the fire, and seasoned 
highly with pepper, salt, and powdered cloves. Let the pulp 
Btew until it boconies v«ry thick. It will then keep well, and 
be excellent for sea'^^oning gravies. 

2^oinato Catsup. — To one quart of ripe tomatoes, put two 
tablespoonfuls of salt, two tablespoonfuls of black pepper, two 
tablespoonfuls of good mustard, a half-tablespoonful of all- 
spice, and three red peppers ground fine. Simmer the whole 
together wilh a pint of vinegar, in a tin vessel, slowly for 
thi'ee hours. Strain through a sieve. Bottle and cork tight. 
The later in the season it is made, the better it will keep. 

To preserve f 07' winter use. — Put perfectly -ripe fruit in a 
stone pot, or a glazed earthen jar, and cover them with salt 
and water strong enough to bear an egg. Before being 
cooked, they ought to be soaked in fresh water for several hom's. 

Another receipt. — Scald the ripe fruit, which should be of 
small size, and, after the skins are removed, squeeze them 
slightly. Spread them on earthen dishes, which are to be 
placed in a brick oven after the bread has been taken out, and 
let them remain there until the next morning. Then put them 
in bags, and keep them m a diy place. The tomatoes are in 
the best condition for preserving, in the months of July and 
August. Before being cooked, soak them in fresh water for a 
few hours. 

To preserve Tomatoes. — For the sake of variety, we append 
a poetical receipt for preserving tomatoes, furnished to the 
" American Agriculturist," by some fair reader : — 

" Six pounds of tomatoes first carefully wipe, 
Not fluted, nor green, but round, ruddy and ripe ; 
After scalding, and peeling, and rinsing them nice — 
With dext'rous fingers 'tis done in a trice — 
Add three pounds of sugar, (Orleans will suit,) 
in layers alternate of sugar and fruit 



292 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

In a deep earthen dish, let them stand for a night, 

Allowing the sugar and juice to unite. 

Boil the syrup, next da}', in a veiy clean kettle, 

(Not iron, — but coppei-, zinc, brass, or bell metal,) 

"Which havnig well skimn;ied, 'till yovi think 'twill suffice, 

Throw in the tomatoes, first adding some spice — 

Cloves, cinnamon, mace, or wlmte'er you like best, — 

'IVill add to the flavor, and give them a zest. 

Boil slowly together, until they begin 

To shrink at the sides, and appear to fall in ; 

Then take them up lightly, and lay them to cool, 

Still boiling the syrup, according to rule, 

Until it is perfectly clear and translucent — 

Your skill will direct you, or else there's no use in't. 

Then into the jars, where the fruit is placed proper, 

Pour boiling, the syrup, direct from the copper. 

After standing till cold, dip some paper in brandy, 

Or rum, or in whiskey, if that be more liandy ; 

Lay it over the fruit with attention and care, 

And run on mutton suet to keep out the air ; 

Then tie a strong paper well over the top, — 

And, ' now that I think on't, the story may stop.' 

If you'll follow these rules, your preserves never fear, 

Will keep in good order till this time next year." 

TREE OmOl^.— Allium proliferum. 

This hardy perennial species of the onion fjimily is some- 
times called the Canada Onion, because it is much cultivated 
in cold countries where the other kinds do not flourish well. 
Small bulbs are produced at the top of the stalks, — hence its 
name. Propagation is efiected by planting the offsets of old 
roots in spring or autumn, or the top bulbs in the middle of 
spring. They should be set about six inches apart, in rows 
that are one foot distant from each other. The onlv care re- 



DICTIONARY, 



293 



quired, is to keep the ground well tilled, and to support the 
etems by stake.s. The bulbs are to be gathered when the tops 
decay, dried in a shady place, and preserved in a dry, cool 
apartment 



TJJRNIF.—Brassica 



rapa. 



Little is known of the history of this valuable plant. Its 
origin appears uncertain, but the choicest English varieties, from 
which our own are descended, were brought from Hanover. 
For culinary purposes it has been prized from the earliest pe- 
riods, long before it was considered important in an agricultural 
point of view. Columella recommends its extensive cultiva- 
tion, because that portion of the crop not wanted for the table, 
will be greedily eaten by the farm-cattle. At the present day, 
however, its merits are generally acknowledged, and in some 
countries it occupies a conspicuous position in every system of 
husbandry. It must be yet fresh in our minds, how, in the re- 
cent dearth in Ireland, the people placed their whole trust upon 
the success of the turnip crop. The varieties are numerous ; 
but the best are those known as — the White Butch — the JRed- 
top — the Earlij Garden Stoite, — the White Flat, — the Yellow 
Dutch, — tlie Yellow Aberdeen — and the Improved Sioedish. 

Culture. — Experience has proved the best soil to be one 
of a light character, such as a sand or gravel mixed with loam. 
On land of this description the roots will be found sweet and 
well flavored. It should be rich, — capable of yielding abund- 
antly, and yet not so rank as to injure the quality of the pro- 
duct. Guano, bone-dust, ashes, gypsum and salt, are consid- 
ered excellent manures. 

The first sowing ought to be made in March or April, soon 

after the frost is out of the ground, and in a warm, sheltered 

border. For this early crop, the best varieties are the White 

Dutch and the Red-top. The Improved Swedish should be sown 

25* 



294 



GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 



about the last of July, and the otlier kinds sometime during 
August. The latter part of the month is the best for the win- 
ter and spring supplies. 

Sowing is best performed in damp, cloudy weather, imme- 
diately before a shower. The soil should be freshly dug, and 
raked smooth upon the surface. The seed — one ounce being 
sufficient for two liundred square feet, — is to be dropped tliinly 
m drills, one foot apart, and half an incli deep. To avoid 
wasting it, some persons are in tlie habit of mixing it with dry 
sand, which secures a more regular distribution. Many differ- 
ent methods of protecting the young plants against the ravages 
of msects, have been proposed. It is recommended to press or 
roll the surface immediately after sowing, when performed in 
dry weather, — to soak the seed in some liquid that will not 
only accelerate the growth of the germ, but also impart a dis- 
agreeable taste to the first leaves, — to put ashes, lime, plaster, 
bone-dust, charcoal or poudrette, in the drill with the seed, — 
or to burn a quantity of liglit brush upon the bed before sow- 
ing. Watenng the ground at 'evening will bring up the plants 
in a few hours' time, and where danger is "apprehended, it is 
advisable to sprinkle them, wlien moist, with ashes, plaster, 
soot, or anytliing calculated to disgust tlie nostrils of the de- 
stroyers. Should all these precautions fail, the gardener must 
not despair at seeing the tender leaves entirely cut off, but sow 
again and again until his efforts are crowned witli success. 

Wlien the plants have tlie rough leaves about an inch in 
breadth, they should be thinned out to distances of tlnee or 
four inches in the drill. As soon as they appear perfectly well 
established, every other one is to be drawn, leaving tlie bulbs 
six or eight inches apart, so that they may have plenty of space 
to acquire a good size. The ground ought to be frequently 
stirred, but not drawn up around the roots. About the middle 
of autumn, when frost is expected, the bulbs ft>r winter and 
spring use are to be taken up and stored. The leaves sliould 
be cut off within an inch of the crown, and the roots are tlien 



DICTIONATIV. 295 

to be put in n dry cellar, or piled in the open field, with a cov- 
ering of straw and eanh. When properly managed, they will 
retain their freshness throughout the winter, and prove excel- 
lent for the table in the succeeding spring. 

Fo7' seed. — Some of the best-shaped and medium-sized 
roots should be set out, in March or April, in rows eighteen 
inches apart each way. The stalks are to be supported by 
being tied to stakes, and, as soon as the seed becomes hard, to 
be cut and laid in a shed to dry. It will there ripen without 
being wasted, and can at any time be beaten out by means of a 
small stick. That which is fresh germinates most readily. 

Use. — Tlie tender tops, gathered in spring, make a very 
good dish of greens. The roots are considered a nutritious and 
wholesome esculent, although difficult of digestion in some 
stomachs. Owing to the scarcity of grain in England many 
years since, the poor people made bread of equal proportions 
of wheat flour and boiled turnips. In common cookery, they 
are generally boiled plain. When tender, they are drained, , 
mashed, and seasoned with butter, pepper and salt. They are 
also put in soups and stews. The syrup, extracted by baking, 
and mixed with honey, is excellent for coughs, hoarseness, and 
complaints of a kindred nature. 

Vegetable OrsTER. — See SALSIFY. 

WATER CRESS. — Slsipnbriinn nasturtium. 

" Eat cress and learn more wit," says an ancient proverb. 
It would seem that the plant once had a high reputation for 
its cordial and stimulating qualities, being thought to invigor- 
ate persons of a cold, phlegmatic disposition, and to quicken 
the understanding. Although its medicinal virtues are now 
rated much less, it has become a favorite vegetable in Europe 
and some parts of this country. It is grown in immense 



296 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

quantities for the London markets, and is in considerable de- 
mand at the markets of New- York and Philadelphia, 

Culture. — The water-cress is best pleased with a clear, 
modeiately-swift stream, one and a half inches deep, and 
having a sandy or gravelly bottom. The nearer the stream 
may be its source, the more successful will be the plants- 
Where the bottom is naturally of mud, it should be covered 
with gravel, Tlie plants are sometimes thrown on the sur- 
face, when the seed will fall to the bottom, and germinate. At 
other times, they are set in rows parallel with the course of 
tlie stream, and according to its depth, the rows will be from 
eighteen inches to three feet apart. Again, cress is cultivated 
on low ground, which can be irrigated at pleasuie. The bed 
is deeply dug with the spado, and, in spring or autumn, as 
most convenient, laid out into shallow trenches. The plants 
are set in these trenches six inches asunder, and must be 
plentifully supplied with water at all times duiing their 
growth. 

Use. — Water cress is well known as an anti-scorbutic, and 
is generally considered a purifier of the blood The warm, 
pungent taste of the leaves renders them a favorite for early 
spring salads. We are surprised that the plant is not more 
extensively cultivated. 

WATERMELON.— Cucurblta citmllus. 

Upper Egypt, Bokhara and the island of Cypius, are tlie 
countries most distinguished for the culture of this fruit. It is 
there brought to great perfection, and is highly esteemed for 
its sweet, succulent flesh, and gratefully cool juice. It is justly 
pronounced one of the most delicious refreshments tliat na- 
ture, amidst her constant attention to the wants of man, af- 
fords in the season of violent heat. Dr. E. D. Clark, in his 



DICTIONARY. 297 

travels through Egypt, gives an interosthig account of the 
melon cultivation on the Nile. When the water subsides, after 
the periodical inundations, the rich sediment that is left on the 
banks, is manured with pigeon-dung and planted with melons. 
Tlie product is astonishingly large, and is said to perfume the 
air to a great distance. It is eaten by the Egyptians, and 
those of the lower classes in particular, so freely that it has 
been called their meat, drink and physic. In cases of ardent 
fever, it is their mo-;t common medicine. This well explains 
the regret expressed by the Israelites for the loss of this fruit, 
which had so often quenched their thirst and relieved their 
weariness, and would have been so grateful in a dry, scorch- 
ing desert. 

The water-melon is very popular in the United States, as 
one might well infer from the enormous quantities yearly car- 
ried to market. It has not the fragrance, nor the rich flavor, 
of the common melon ; but its refreshing coolness, together 
with its beautiful apj^earance, cause it to be a general favorite 
during the hot season. The following are the varieties most 
worthy of notice : — the Black Spanish, — the Imperial, — the 
Mountain Sweet, — and the 3foimtai7i Sprout. 

Culture. — This is almost identical with that of the melon. 
The best soil is of a sandy character, but very rich, and having 
the full benefit of the sun. In those countries where the vine 
proves most successful, it is always grown on a sand. And, 
where the soil is naturally wot and heavy, it is advisable to 
dig out deep holes, to be filled up with a light compost for 
the reception of the seed. In field culture, the finest croDS 
are raised upon an old meadow sod, turned over by the plough 
'\n the middle of spring. 

To have the fruit in perfect purity, it should not be in the 
neighborhood of other vines of the same family. Let the hills 
be at least seven feet apart, so as to afford ample room for 
the spread of the foliage, and three or four inches above the 



298 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 

surfiice of the ground. Plant nine or ten peeds in eacli, some- 
where about the tir.-t week of May, to be covered lialt" an inch 
deep. One ounce of seed will thus supply near fifty hills. Whe?3 
the plants have two rough leaves, reduce their number to 
three in a hill ; and when the blossom-buds are presented, 
pinch off the ends of the shoots, to induce the production of 
fertile laterals. Keep the earth mellow, and draw a little 
around the stems as high as the seed-leaves. Guard against 
the attacks of insects, by the use of the vine-^^hield, and by 
sprinkling soot, tobacco-dust, etc., upon the liills. For more 
particular directions, reference is to be made to the article 
upon the culture of the Melox, 

Use. — Apart from the use of tlie water-melon for the 
dessert, it may be pickled, or baked in sweet wine, or preserv- 
ed as sweetmeats. The inspissated juice makes a very 
pleasant syrup, and in some parts of Europe is brewed into 
beer. 

To preserve the rindf:. — Cut the rind in small strips, which 
are to be boiled fifteen minutes in a weak pearlash-water. 
Then drain them, and to every pound add one pound <>f l<^at 
sugar. Boil the whole for twenty minutes, or until Ihe rmrt 
becomes quite soft. Tlie syrup will probably requn-e scaldmc: 
several times. 

WORM \'/00D. — Artemisia aostnimum. 

Wormwood belongs to the same genus of plants as the 
tarragon. It is an- erect under-shrub, of a hardy constitution, 
and to be found wild in nearly every part of Europe, growing 
by the road-«ide and on heaps of old rubbish. 'J'he leaves and 
fiowers are warm and bitter, with a strong, nauseous smell ; 
the roots are Avarm and aromatic. " As bitter as wormwood," 
has become a conrmon expression, no less significant than that 
every-day phrase, " As co(tl as a cucumber." 



DICTIONARY. 299 

Culture. — Tliis plant is best suited with a light, dry and 
poi)r poil, for when its growth becomes very luxuriant, it loses 
a good j)art of its aromatic qualities, and is less able to endure 
the rigors of winter. It is propagated by seed, as well as by 
Blips and cuttings. Sow thinly in early spring, or in autumn 
soon after the seed ripens. "When the plants have attained a 
height of two inches, thin them to distances of six inches 
apart. The slips and cuttings are to be taken off at midsum- 
mer, and set out in a shaded border, in rows six or eight 
inches apart each way, to be watered regulaily until they 
have become established. Transplanting to the permanent 
location, is to be performed in the following spring. Keep the 
ground light and clean, and clear away the dead stalks in au- 
tumn. 

Use. — "Wormwood is cultivated chiefly for medicinal pur- 
poses. It has tonic properties, and is sometimes employed as 
a stomachic. A considerable quantity of oil rises from it in 
distillation, which is used to destroy worms. An infusion of 
the leaves, with the addition of a fixed alkali, makes a pow- 
f-rf'ul diuretic in cases of dropsy. Before the use of liops was 
Known, wormwood was mucli employed by the brewer in tl^e 
composition y.f bter and ule ; and it now enters into the French 
beverage called ea a (rab-'iinf/ie, wh\ch is thought to create an 
appetite, and ovp.rci^e a healing influence r.pon the system. 



INDEX. 



Artichoke : its description, varieties and culture, 85 ; use, 88. 

, Jerusalem: see Jerusalem Artichoke. 

Asparagus : its history, description and varieties, 89 ; culture, 

90 ; use, 96. 
Author's Garden: description of, 21. 

Balm : its description, culture and use, 97. 

Basil: its description and culture, 98 ; use, 99. 

Bean: — the Dwarf, its varieties, 99 ; and culture, 100; — the 

Pole, their varieties, 101 ; and culture, 102 ; use, 103. 
Beet: its history, varieties and culture, 105; use, 107. 
Borage: its description, culture and use, 108. 
Borecole: its description, 108; sub-varieties, culture and. use, 

109. 
Broccoli : its description, sub-varieties and culture, 110 ; use, 

112. 
Brussels-Sprouts: its description, culture and use, 113. 
Burnet : its description and culture, 114; use, 115. 

Cabbage: its history, desciiption, and sub- varieties, 115; cul- 
ture, 116 ; use, 121. 

Capsicum, see Pepper. 

Cardoon : its liistory, description and culture, 122 ; use, 123. 

Carrot : its history, 123 ; varieties and culture, 12-4 ; use, 126. 

Cauliflower: its description, sub-varieties and culture, 127 ; 
use, 130. 

Celeriac: its description, culture and. use, 131. 

Celerv : its history, varieties and culture, 132; use, 135. 

Chervil: its description and culture, 136 ; use, 137. 

Chive: its description and culture, 137; use, 138> 

Cistern, the, 23-25. 
26 



302 INDEX. 

Cold Frame, the, 77. 

Corn, Indian : see Indian Corn. 

Corn Salad : its description and culture, 138 ; use, 139. 

Cress : its history and culture, 139 ; use, 140. 

Cress, Indian, see Indian Cress. 

, "Water, see Water Cress. 

Cucumber: its history, 140 ; varieties and culture, 141 ; 

148. 
Cultivation with the Hoe, 59. 
Currant : its history and description, 149 ; varieties and 

ture, 150 ; use, 152. 

Dictionary of Vegetables, Fruits and Medicinal Herbs, 85. 
Dill : its description and history, 154 ; culture and use, 155. 

Early Plants for Spring Use, 76. 

Egg-Plant ; its history, 155 ; varieties and culture, 156 ; use, 

157. 
Enclosure of the Garden, 19. 

Endive: its history, varieties and culture, 158; use, 160. 
Escalot, or Eschalot, see Shallot. 
Exposure of the Garden, 14. 

Fennel: its description and cultui'e, 161 ; use, 162. 

Fetticus, see Corn Salad. 

FoRCiNG-Pit, the : its appearance and advantages, 26. 

Forcing Vegetation, 78. 

Formation of the Kitchen Garden, 14-37. 

Gardening, beneficial influences of, 8. 

Garlic : its history and description, 162 ; culture and use, 163. 

General Management of the Kitchen Garden, 38-84. 

Gooseberry: its liistory, description and varieties, 164; cul- 
ture, 165; use, 167. 

Grape: its history, 168; value and varieties, 169; culture, 
170^ use, 170. 



INDEX. 303 

Guinea Squash ; see Egg-Plant. 
Gumbo : see OTcra. 

Hoeing, objects of, 60. 

Hop : its history, 116 ; description, 177 ; culture, 178 ; use, 180. 

Horse-Radish; its description and culture, 181 ; use, 183. 

Horticultural Pursuits, a growing taste for, 5. 

Hot-Bed, the, 80. 

Hyssop : its description and culture, 183 ; use, 184. 

Implements for the Gardener, 27-37. 

Indian Corn : its description, 184 ; varieties and culture, 185 ; 
use, 187. 

Indian Cress : its histoiy, description and culture, 183 ; use, 
189. 

Insects injurious to Garden Crops, 66, 

Internal Arrangements of the Garden, 20. 

Introduction, 5-13. ^^ 

x 

Jerusalem Artichoke: its history and description, 189; cul- 
ture and use, 190. 

Kale, see Borecole and Sea-Kale. 

Kidney Bean, 99. 

Kitchen Garden : its value, 5-13 ; formation, 14-37. 

Labor, a Programme of, 41 . 

, the dignity and necessity of, 7. 

Lamb's Lettuce, see Corn Salad. 

Lavender : its history, description, and culture, 191 ; use, 192. 

Leek : its history, description and varieties, 192 ; culture, 193 ; 

use, 194. 
Lettuce: its history and description, 194; culture, 195 ; use, 

198. 
Love Apple, see Toinaio. 



304 INDEX. 

Manures necessary for the Soil, 46 ; different kinds for Gar- 
den use, 48. 

Marigold: its description, culture and use, 199. 

Marjoram : its description and culture, 200 ; use, 201. 

Marsh Gardens at Paris, 24. 

Melon : its history, description and varieties, 201 ; culture, 
202 ; use, 206. 

Melon, Water, see Wate7' Melon. 

Mint: its description, 206 ; species, culture and use, 207. 

Mushroom: its description and culture, 208; use, 210. 

Mustard: its description and history, 211 ; culture, 212; use, 

Nasturtium, see Indian Cress. 

New Zealand Spinach : its description and culture, 213 ; use, 
214. 

Okra: its Ijllitory and description, 214; culture and use, 215. 
Onion : its history and description, 216 ; varieties and culture, 

217 ; use, 220. 
Onion, Potato, see Potato Onion. 
Onion, Tree, see Tree Onion, 

Parsley : its description, varieties and culture, 221 ; use, 222. 
Parsnip ; its description and culture, 223 ; use, 225. 
Pea : its history, 225 ; varieties and culture, 226 ; use, 230. 
Pennyroyal, see Mint. 

Pepper : its description and culture, 231 ; use, 232. 
Peppermint, see Mint. 
Pie-Plant, see Rhubarb. 
Pompion, see PumpMn. 
Por Marigold, see Marigold. 

Potato : its history, 232 ; varieties, 233 ; culture, 234 ; dis- 
eases, 237 ; use, 238. 
Potato, Sweet, see Su'eet Potato. 



INDEX. 305 

Potato Oxiox : its description and culture, 239. 

PuMPKix : its description, varieties and culture, 240 ; use, 241. 

Quixce: its description, 241 ; varieties and culture, 242 ; use, 
243. 

Radisu : its history, description aud varieties, 244 : culture, 

245 ; use, 247. 
Rain, Indications of, 52. 
Raspberry : its description and varieties, 247 ; culture, 248 ; 

use, 250. 
Rhubarb : its description, varieties and culture, 251 ; use, 253. 
Rosemary : its description and culture, 254 ; use, 255. 
Rotation of crops, 50. 
Rue : its description, culture and use, 255. 

Sage : its description and culture, 256 ; use, 257. 

Salsify : its description and culture, 258 ; use, 259. 

Savory : its description and culture, 259 ; use, 260. 

Scorzonera: its description and culture, 260 ; use, 261. 

Sea-Kale : its history, description, and culture, 261 ; use, 264. 

Sea-KL\le Beet, 105. 

Seed, selection of, for sowing, 54; steeping, 58; saving, 73. 

Shallot : its history, description and culture, 265 ; use, 266. 

Shelter upon the north and west sides, advantages of, 19. 

Situation of the Garden, 14. 

Size and shape of the Garden, IS. 

Skirret : its history and description, 266 ; culture and use, 

267. 
Soil of the Garden, 16 ; how it may be improved, 17 ; depth. 

and mellowness necessary, 42. 
Sorrel : its description, 267 ; culture and use, 268. 
Sowing, 55. 
Spading, 46. 
Spear-mint, see Mint. 
2^* 



306 



INDEX. 



Spinach: its description, 268 ; varieties and culture, 269 ; use, 

271. 
Spinach, New Zealand : see New Zealand Spinach. 
Squash: its description, varieties and culture, 212; use, 273. 
Strawberry, its description, 273. 
Sweet Marjoram, see Marjoram. 

Sweet Potato: its description and culture, 281 ; use, 284. 
Swiss Chard, see Beet. 

Tansy : culture, 284 ; use, 285. 

Tarragon : culture, 285 ; use, 286. 

Thousand-headed Cabbage, see Brussels-Sprouts. 

Thyme : its description, varieties and culture, 286 ; use, 287. 

Time, the employment of, 38. 

Tomato : its history, description and varieties, 287 ; culture, 

288 ; use, 290. 
Tool House and its Contents, 27. 
Transplanting, when and how performed, 69. 
Tree Onion : its description and culture, 292. 
Trenching the Soil, 44. 
Turnip-rooted Celery, see Celeriac. 
Turnip: its history, variety and culture, 293 ; use, 295. 

Vegetable Oyster, see Salsify. 
Vermin, the Destruction of, 62. 
Vine, see Grape. 
Vitality of Seeds, 76. 

Water Cress : its description, 295 ; culture and use, 296. 
Watering Plants, its value, 28, 71 ; cautions to be observed, 

24, 72 ; how and when to be done, 25, 72. 
Water Melon: its description, 296; varieties and culture, 

297 ; use, 298 
Winter Mar-ioram, see Marjoraiii. 
Wormwood : its description, 298 ; culture and use, 299. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




